Hello friends, I am a beginner in the field of aermodelling and I need some help in the construction of the wing. From what and how do you construct the wing.

Aditya, today at present, one of the inexpensive and effective way is to make an RC plane is the strawed, corrugated sealed plastic sheets known as coroplast or as sunpack.. this one sheet of 2 mm thickness costs about 90 to 115 Rs/- and one sheet is enough for a good big plane.. you can make wings and fuselages from it.. can reinforce with wooden reapers or by balsa reapers as well.. when completed a big craft will be less than 500 grams.. fly nicely, and lasts for a life time.. and easy to repair in a crash.. you can make wing, by it, while keeping the straws in straigt to parellel.. its easy.. and please use rubber based solution glues to stick the ends of the wings.. once dried it will not tear off.. and easy to stic on, and you will get some time for adjustments.. no more complications.. no more wing structures.. can make a wing within 20 minutes.. go for it.. have nice RCying..

Roopeshji plz elaborate about the glue, You have mentioned. Yesterday only i have tried to make the wing from coro, and felt bit difficult to join the wing ends with super glue and other industrial glue.

Swiz, its too sad to hear.. making a wing takes only about a 20 minutes, even with a coffee and music.. and if you are at steady, will take about 5 to 10 minutes.. for an easy making we can use two types of glues.. the first one is the industrial grade Cyano glue, can purchase from any sign makers, printers, and one who handles the advertisement flex boards.. a vial of this glue costs about Rs 25/- and the grade will be from 72 to 78.. take extra care while handling these as these can inflict an istand damage if drops in eye.. and can inflict severe burns on body.. so make sure an eye protection.. this glue can only use to fix the reinforcing spars, at CG line.. after making pecil drawings, and lines, just sand the surface with 200 grit emery paper.. do not rough it too much.. just sand it.. then place the reinforce bar, may be wooden reaper, balsa, or aluminum as your choice.. then place the tip of the bottle at base and allow to flow, with a slight squeez.. within seconds will stic.. then we have to make the camber... apply the SR, here i always use the FEVICOL, SR, is meant for wood industrial works, is a rubber based solution, of solvent.. this also can be buy in tube, like a tooth paste.. will be easy to apply.. then sand the both edges, with same sand paper.. apply a thin layer of SR at the tip of the wings.. thin, as a thick layer will be a mess and increases weight.. a thin layer is far enough.. after applying on both surface wait for some minutes about 2 or three, and apply some air over the glued surface with a paper.. then the glue goes rough and tacky.. and will not stick on hands or fingers.. then make a camber with second part, while holding the base as straight on a flat table, just make a contact with both ends.. but do not press.. and make sure ends are in harmony.. then press with slight force, and massage with a clean cloth.. instantly the surface will stick on.. no mess.. no strain.. please give me a little time.. will add a video also.. its all easy.. and make lots of flies, and RCyit.. and enjoy..

Thanks roopeshji. i thought that plastic (coro) cannot be stick with rubber based glues like Fevicol 
I think i was wrong  Definitely i will try that with my other wing.

Fevicol SR is good adhesive but very messy and heavy. If you are building with coro then fevikwik is all that you need. Sand the surfaces and wipe with damp cloth. Now the trick for using fevikwik is to not spread it, just makes small droplets at approximately 2cm distance from each other. Fold the sheet and hold it down with weights or clamps and leave it to cure for 15mins.

Sun.. i already mentioned that how to apply SR.. and not heavy.. and sticks in seconds.. and lasts for a lifetime, without getting brittle.. 

Aword of caution using PU based adhesive like FevoBond, Feviocol SR etc. They are 'Creepy' , that is, they slowly give way if put on load bearing areas like Landing gear , engine mount, Formers etc. They are best used for Sheeting etc which has much lower load bearing.

If sticking Balsa to Balsa, nothing beats CA (Fevi Quick). People also use Balsa Cement, which is close to brittle "QuickFix" we used to get.

Balsa - Balsa : CA / Fevicol (if not load bearing)
Balsa - Ply/Balsa-Spruce  : Titebond/Fevicol Speedex/Anabond Epoxy/.
Ply-Ply - Epoxy

I've build three SPADs using SR and here are my findings/opinion:
Heavy compared with CA, even when fully cured which again is not guaranteed when used on coro (plastic)
With SR the same quality of bond cannot be assured every time.
For joining wing trailing edge, the bond starts coming off within few days. Compare with CA, I recently tried to open a four year old coro wing from the trailing edge to extract the spar, the bond was so strong that i was not able to save the coro.
The only disadvantage of CA is brittleness, which can be easily overcome by using droplets of CA rather than spreading it over the surface.
Finally there is a reason CA is used for SPADs world wide even spad to the bone recommends CA droplets/beads technique as the best way to build coro wings.
Roopesh I request you to try CA for your next SPAD build and I'm sure you will never look back

Sun.. a million thanks for the valuable advice.. will try onwards.. my experience in this segment is far low.. so thanks again.. 

I have done extensive trials, and built a few Spads too. SR 998 is the best. Use a Small quantity, ie a thin film on each side to be bonded. Prior to application, a quick scrub with thinner and/or steel wool, then let the two surfaces air till almost fully dry, then press firmly together. Great for fold-over corro wings - don't have to clamp. My spads go through a fair bit of rough landings (gravity is not my friend  ) and over the years I've never had a failure

A note of caution: do NOT use SR or Quickfix generics in engine mount areas. Methanol weakens and reacts here. Use Araldite (epoxy) or cyano only

Cheers

Sanjai Sir.. a million thanks for the great inspiration.. and by this time i am taking some gruesome tests about this matter.. because by last years made more than 80 aircrafts, even for Academy, and some are too spanned.. but none of them are failed.. and many we flew at mid day heat..and after one and half years of extensive use of training all flying nicely.. with some crash repairs..  and still i am conducting some extensive tests about this glue.. working nicely.. yes, because we always goosefleshes about foriegn glues, but neglect our own.. so, we simply ignores about the goodness around us.. and thanks for the great inspiration.. 

what about using cardboard

here is one from me.

cool...

 :salute:Thanx a million for all the advice!!!!!

I went to hardware shop to buy Fevicol SR and they said they have MR (white), which I think is used for hobby purposes (available in small tubes and cans). The one used by carpenters is Fevisol SH (again white). There is no Fevicol SR. There is FeviBond, which is a rubber based adhesive (not white). Which glue are you referring to Roopesh sir?

what special properties are you looking for? if you are talking about stickiness then any normal fevicol (white) works fine, i used just a normal furniture fevicol.

Vishal, its amazing that to hear about the non availability of the Fevicol SR..!! because Fevicol SR is very famous and popular in our country.. Fevicol SR stands for Fevicol Solution Rubber based.. more claerly its a glue based on solvents and rubber.. this is mainly used in wood industries to make water proof joints .. and yes in foot wear industry.. when applied correctly and patiently, its almost impossible to detach the joints tht once formed..Fevibond is also same, but with low rubber density.. is mainly intended for electronics industry, as for joining broken tapes, sealing cable crevices, sealing PCBs.. and main use in speaker rewinding and speaker industries, to glue the surrounds of the speakers and woofers..tweeters etc.. you can simply go to any general purpose hardware shops and can ask for Fevicol SR, not MR, SH, or MRR ( Marine).. instead is SR.. and can also find lots of other local brands like Qvita, and many.. but request to by Fevicol as this is my confidance from my child hood.. the first use of the SR came to me when i was a child, as my Pappaji, gave me a tin of SR.. to make cars and buses from the carton of tonics from our hospital.. and still remember the cost of the tin was about 5 Rupees and now its 68 to 70 Rupees.. for same quantity.. still love this one as its aan amazing glue to me.. and if you couldnt find this again, i will courier you, buying it from here.. here have lots even in local hardware shops.. without Fevicol SR a hardware shop never become a hardware shop.. and never use any ordinary alcohol based glues to make planes like Fevicol SH, or MR as all are alcohol based, is Poly Vinyl alchohol.. because these glues are specially designed for wood works.. have nice builds..

vishal its called Fevicol SR 998, available in smaller tins (less than 50gms) also. Can be found in any hardware store, related to wood working or shops selling plywood, sunmica etc. Its dark brown in color.

Thank you so much Roopesh sir and Amit! I'll start hunting!

coderbanna have you used crap paper covered on thermocol in that wing in post #17

try it.. have nice RCying..

i used tissue paper, and my wing is made up of two 3 layers, bottom two layers are of depron and top layer (airfoil) is made up of thermocol. and it stick well on both.

Interesting combination there... Just a query stuck there in my mind...why 3 layers (2 layers of depron and 1 layer of thermocol)? why not thoermocol alone or why not depron alone? or it was just availability of sheets was the issue?