RC India

Hi guys.
this is to be my  'MAS 562' BUILD LOG with progress pictures  :).
I am thinking this may be a slow build so whatch this space  ;) ;D
progress to date .......keel, frames/bulkheads marked out for cutting.
pics to follow.
regards
 don

No problem Sir,
We will wait & watch as you progress, and all your building log pictures will be quite informative to us. 
All the best.
 :thumbsup:

hi guys,
well here is the frames and keel awaiting cutting.
I am using 4mm MDF for the frames and a 4mm laminated floor layer for the keel,
both are quite hard and don't suffer from 'grain' problems and easily cut with fret saw or jig saw.
:-)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/28042011132.jpg)

here how it should look later.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/skeleton.jpg)

regards
don

Good start keep it up.
will be watching regulary.
Thanks Regards
Vivek Kumar Singh
www.rcelectro.com

hi guys.
well.......I've cut the frames/bulkheads and keel...here they are stood in their
relative position by the keel waiting for sanding and final assembly.

(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/02052011134.jpg)

finished length will be 84cm [ 33inches] and a 9inch beam
powered by a brushless motor out of a 450 heli.....any sugestions for the prop?........I was thinking a 40 or 45mm brass but not sure on the pitch, runnuing on a 4mm shaft.
 on the plan the rudder is on the stern ....I was thinking of moving it forward an inch and having it through the keel as more normal......will this effect the turning??
regards
don
UK

Sir, it is always good to follow the base plan, keep the rudder where it should be (although moving by 1” should not effect overall turning very much) and you can start with 4mm shaft & 40 mm prop. Otherwise you can change to 45 mm any time.

hello Sb_Maharana
many thanks for you'r input......it will save me reinforcing the stern keel.........
it's many years since I built a boat untill last year with the Anteres Cruiser and now this one .
bought boats back then used to have external rudder some times and internal on others but I never really understood if this was for a technical reason or just design.
I am having to cut another keel as the hard laminate on the outside of the floor covering I used will not easily peel off and will probably be a problem with glue. I will use the same MDF I used for the ribs/bulk heads.

by the way I am not elevated in any way so just plane Don will be fine ..........not Sir....... ;)
regards
don

Good on you Don! I'm just finishing off a rather large project for a client (long overdue). It is midnight here while you gaze into the dusk at Bristol, I'm taking a breather and then going back to paint her in a while. What armament have you thought of for the 562?  Are you going to stick to the original or do you plan to modify? Depth Charges / Ack Ack batteries - Hmmm?

I have a rotten idea. Would you be adventurous enough to mix a PT109 or a Thornycroft Vosper Superstructure with the 562 hull? Let me know. The hull shapes are not identical, but similar, if one was building a generic MTB from WW2, I'm sure you know what I mean. I have a PT 109 project lined up and can send you pictures and plans if you wish.

Btw, "Sir" is used as an address to accord respect in India, as is "Uncle" when you refer to anyone (male) who is more than 15 years (roughly) elder to you - or if he is married. (In that case, his wife is referred to as Aunty / Aunt. If a person has a wife who is referred to as an Aunt, he automatically becomes the recipient of the epithet ''Uncle". Simple, isn't it? ;D

Pity that you weren't knighted this time, old chap, Harry / William will undoubtedly make up for this oversight! :thumbsup:

hi mate,
 funny that because I was looking at the 109 and the fast rescue launches of the RAF,
 but few plans out there that I found, looks like apart from a difference of 10ft variation between the various makes designs the MAS is the only one I found with a 'stepped hull' all the others are flat keel and the same 'speed boat type hull' some have the strip at mid hull to redirect the bow wash down.
I think I may keep to the plans for this.......twin bofor type AA guns , torpedo each side in a roll off frame and looks like depth charge rack on the stern,
yes I know address vocabulary differs between cultures..............It's just that over here Sir is a highly elevated gesture and awkward to accept some times  :),I will have to get used to a lot of differences in our cultures while 'residing on here' and talking to you folks out there  :).
  you're a night bird too eh? I have been known to work in the early hours too .
yes pics and plans may well be too compelling to stay standard :)
just by way of a distraction...here is one I did about 6 years ago, 4 ft long HMS Prince of Wales, fibred hull but static display, all total scratch built......no parts bought for anything. about 3/4 way through the build in this picture
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/PrinceofWales.jpg)
regards
don

hi guys,
just an update ......................half way through assembling the hull frames.
here
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/hullskeletoncomeingon.jpg)

regards
don

Looking good Matey! You are tempting me but i need to get down to work on my half complete Torpedo Boat first.

Any chance of a few better snaps of the Prince of Wales?

hi guys
here is the only pic of it completed I can find.I shall take a few more.
this is mounted and just finished the aerial rigging.
it's 4ft long so is not currantly displayed but in a cupboard on a shelf
:-)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/PIC_0001.jpg)
regards don

Bravo! A few clearer snaps will be much appreciated.

HI GUYS,
here are some pics of HMS PRINCE OF WALES, a King George v class Battleship 1941
temp covered with frame and 'clingfilm' until I can get proper case.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/102_0131.jpg)
lower stern showing two props and rudder
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/102_0130.jpg)
bow shot
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/102_0125.jpg)
forward main turrets and bridge
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/102_0126.jpg)
aircraft catapult, recovery cranes and hangar [under the boat deck], and 5.5 AA gun turrets
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/102_0127.jpg)
stern main turret
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/102_0128.jpg)
stern AA positions and rear turret
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/102_0129.jpg)
thanks for looking.
regards
don

very nice ship, great detail work,
& well covered with frame & films.
 {:)} {:)} {:)}

hi guys,
back then I was not into RC and the proposed scenario was for it to be RC with working radar, turrets etc.
 but then I saw the cost involved and it was built as a static model.
although the turrets all rotate and the rifles elevate on all turrets and the cranes work.
she is as was when commissioned with no camouflage paint, that came later
also about 6 months later they took away the second of two anchors on the starboard side.........there were origionaly two one side and one on the other.
regards
don

To build a static model is always difficult than RC, because one has to concentrate only on the ship details involved rather than a successful sailing compromising ship details.

Pity that I can't see any of the photographs.

hi VC,
HOW DO YOU pm ON THIS SITE?.............ok PM sent to VC..................
I cannot see a private messege button.
the pics are there in this thread........... send your email to
donaldw144@gmail.com
I will email them
I forgot to add.............. the ship is 1/200 scale................
although one chap built one at 20ft and can sit under the main bridge and drive it via cameras
HERE
http://www.visitwirral.com/site/wirral-news/2010/11/4/new-battleship-prince-of-wales-exhibit-at-fort-perch-rock-a173 (http://www.visitwirral.com/site/wirral-news/2010/11/4/new-battleship-prince-of-wales-exhibit-at-fort-perch-rock-a173)
regards
don

hi guys,
ok ................ to get back to the MAS build,
I have found 4 errors in the plan to date...........
1, the frame/bulkhead number 17 is to narrow [beam] by nearly 1/4 inch, so cut this one bigger,
2 frames 19,18,17, are not tall enough by approx  1/2in, 3/8in, & 1/4in , respectively from the engine bay stern wards. [ I will have to add on at the deck joint ][ or you could cut a far more stepped keel than on the plans] to have the frames as is, ,level for flat deck' would require a completely different keel to be cut with a much deeper rear step.[ the hull already has a bow upwards stance]
3 there are no reinforcement plates for the keel at the stuffing tube location, [ these need to be made and fitted before bulkheads]
4 also the bulk head at this point [num 17] is only marked to fit the keel without reinforcement plates
apart from that I have the main hull skeleton assembled I will post pics tomorrow to show the bulk head errors, as if you follow the plan, the deck at midships takes a dive down towards the stern instead of being flat, OR you could have a stepped deck as in some 'E' boats
also I have at the moment 'left out' the engine bay side sections as this will be electric and not gasser as shown in the plans..................this will give more room and possibly enable cooling better for the electric motor.

regards
don

HI GUYS,
Well this is the hull at present with top stringer detached to return to their proper positions.
note the stern step up is at an angle downwards not paralel to the deck.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/HULLFAULTS.jpg)
I have now detached the rear three frames from the  keel and placed the hull upside down ....resting on the 'deck' ......so to speak. and re afixed the frames to the stringers following a 'flat deck line' the keel is now 2mm above the transom and only just locating in the frames 18 and 17.
it would apear the keel and the plan 'cutouts' for the keel to fit the frames is wrong it fits ok up to the 'engine room' but is wrong from the stuffing box to the transom.
here
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/framesolution.jpg)
the only thing I see to do is seriousely flatten the angle of the shaft and rejoint the keel to suit the frames .........OR extend the frames to meet the keel which would make for a different shaped stern stepup in the keel. [at the moment the stern step up is paralel to the deck as is the center step up]
has any one there actualy built from these plans?
did they have a problem like this?
the keel is assembled as per plan with a 6mm slot for fixing and sealing the stuffing tube.
regards
don

Looking good, so far........watching and learning......................

hi VC,
Well I have now removed the rear section of the keel,
 I will have to trim the remaining keel to nearer the finished size and steps to take the hull bottom planks,
[I always leave the keel a little large at the bottom edge than the plans as it's easier to take some off to finished level than to add ]
 then replace the rear section and reposition the stuffing tube slot at a shallower angle, leaving room for a 45mm prop if required,[I am going to try a 40mm first]
 I will also be allowing the keel to support the stuffing tube to it's full length, instead of adding an 'A' bracket, this will give the effect of a small fin at the rear half of the hull.and I will just need to add a strap around the stuffing tube towards the end of the 'fin'.
pics to follow. :)
regards
don

hi guys,
well here is the new stern keel section  in place (black) with the raised section to carry the stuffing tube.
 and the main keel (red) waiting to be trimmed down to its correct size,
here
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/rearkeel.jpg)

the decks are now flat from bow to stern.
so I am now looking at cutting the 'planks' 3mm x 2mm  for the bottom from a piece of soft pine, I am thinking this will need to be opposing layers  [ 1 layer to run bow to stern, the 2nd layer to be diagonal ]   for strength,  and then light ply for the sides
regards
don

hi guys,
well here is the 'modified keel'
 just needs sanding to the frames now,
 and showing the prop shaft run in RED.[looks like about 12in shaft]
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/NEWKEELLINE.jpg)

regards
don

I had similar problems when fixing bulk-heads. Later I found a solution by constructing the basic frame on a 18 mm Flat plyboard. First I fix the keel with wooden boots & fixtures (keel holder) then each bulkhead. While positioning each bulkheads with sheer I use outside Caliper. This is very essential tool while fixing bulkhead at the right position.

hi mate.
your boat has a stepped deck and only one step up in the keel line.........
mine has a flat deck and two step ups in the keel line..........
different plans??
looks good though.
thats why I built mine 'upside down' as it had a flat deck and there fore all should have lined up well ..but....not to be eh?
regards
don

This hull is not as simple as it looks. I did notice the stepped hull, and two piece keels (parting for stuffing tube), just thought right side up would have been better.

hi mate.
it's only the 'flat decks' I used to do upside down as then I can build 'on the plan' and get the perfect deck line.
 other wise yes, keel blocks does build better. and guarantees a perfect keel line.
looking good. mine is still only that far.
regards
don

hi people.
I have started the first 'skin section' I am using heavy weight card.....about double the thickness of xmas cards as I have quite a pile of this.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/firstskin.jpg)
It will be filled later as normal and then a few layers of tissue and either dope or spray varnish......which ever is cheaper.......... before the paint coats.
the inside will be spray varnished to safe-guard it from water damage.
regards don

hi guys.
well a step further with the build.
now first skin is complete...leaving it for a few days indoors to ensure it is perfectly dried out then spray varnish the inside and then I can fill the outside...mainly the bow as the ribs are a little prominent .... then skin and seal it.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/masbowview.jpg)

(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/mastopview.jpg)

regards
don

Watching and learning!

hi guys.
well the card I used to skin the hull measures 0.7mm.....for future ref.  :)
thats  0.027 559 055 118 inch for those not using metric.
going to have to order a 13 1/2 or 14in prop shaft....looking at fast revving racing props..........any other  ideas?

regards
don

edit.....
 I have ordered a 12in shaft .with the coupler that should be long enough..... ???..hope fully   ;)
I have cut a 'base deck' from the same card so when I sheet and dope it I can go right up over the base deck to the gunnel's where the superstructure will sit and hopefully have a water tight seal with decks and hull...........
on ward to the superstructure now......while I wait for the varnish for inside and then set the shaft and motor and put in the shelf for the electrics.........it will be brush less motor.

hi guys.
Well I have cut a base deck and installed the gunnel's....this is just placed on for now.........
. as I have to install the prop shaft when that arrives and sort the motor mount, electric shelf, etc before fixing and then the waterproof skin.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/basedeck.jpg)
I have started on the superstructure............this is all in card stock...........must keep this cheap.  :)
I am thinking this may need some serious ballast..........the original plans were for a gas motor..........may be a 'gell cell' to run it on...I just happen to have 2 12v laying around here ;)
regards
don

Hi guys.
Well I have made a start on the superstructure now.
here it is to date...just placed on for now.
 the complete unit will be a lift off hatch for access to the hull.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/SUPERSTRUCTURE.jpg)
now to make the twin boffors.............. ??? :headscratch:         :)
regards
don

hi guys.
well still working on deck fittings.
here is an update of progress......... the torpedoes are about half done. the gun stood on the stern looks a little 'large' now it's there :) [still to put the rifles on...]
start on the depth charge stern rack next......and of coarse the 'engine room' and fore cabin' deck hatches to do yet.......
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/update.jpg)
still waiting for motor connector, but have installed the prop shaft and found a suitable rudder........ [old 400 size heli fly bar paddle :)].........
the deck is taped in place at the moment to keep it flat. it is two layers of the card which will all be enclosed in fiber glass in due coarse.......after I have done the bit of filling at the lower bow region.......... ;)
regards
don

The boat is shaping up nicely.  :thumbsup:
If possible please post one more picture of the hull, “bottom view”. Just want to see the step hull after covering.

hi mate.
here are the pic's of boat bottom :)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/stepedhull1jpg.jpg)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/stepedhull.jpg)
showing 8mm stuffing tube
regards
don

YEEEAAAHHAAAAA.....oh my god...Sir its a nice build...i am too happy to see like this one...waiting for the finished machine...Sir, its truely inspiring and i hope i will make one..soon..the machine simply looks awesome...have a nice build...

hi guys
well it is slowly coming along.
still making deck fittings....hatches etc and waiting for mooring fittings........bollards and fairleads.

I need to get the fiber glass next so another possible delay :)
regards
don

Sir..please follow and complete thw work Sir..it will be an awesome craft...good luck

hi guys.
yes it will be completed ................. may be a little slow but it will be done :)

regards
don

Sun Sir..bottom side this specific craft is stepped towards Stearn...what is actual purpose of these stepping...? will you guide me once... please..?

hi mate.
it was an early attempt to help it go faster............. these were designed in the 1930's...........
this system is used on water planes to help then 'break away' from the water surface on take off.
regards
don

Sunk Sir..million thanks for the know how...and happily i started the work of the same craft...she is 2.5 feet long..in scale...and willing to power her with a home made brushless....

Hi mate,
I look forward to the build log..and a few pics. ;)
regards
don

Hi guys.
well here is an update pic of the 'MAS'
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/29072011172.jpg)
Railings just placed on for now....deck needs finishing first,
Torpedoed still to have a nose cone fitted...........ordered some 22mm beads to glue onto the nose for the cone.........
still have a hatch to put on the stern in front of the gun and the depth charge rack to make,
 also a hatch for the 'fore deck' and make the anchor.
regards
don

Sir..nice...

hi guys.
well a little more progress.....
filling the bow to shape and a fillet on the stuffing tube keel. :)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/31072011174.jpg)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/31072011175.jpg)
also I have the nose on the torpedoes now and done the depth charge rack for the stern.
more picks after I do the final sand on the filler ,
then its all set to do the fiber glass skin.............I layer of fiber glass tissue and then paint. ;)
regards
don

hi guys.
here is the latest pics.
filler sanded.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/31072011176.jpg)
bow shot with lift off deck section in place
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/BOWSHOT.jpg)
hahaha......I've used colored beads for the torpedo nose  :)
regards
don

its nice progress Sir...

hi guys.
just an update pic.
I have now installed the railings and am fashioning an anchor :)
latest pic.........
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/MASUPDATE.jpg)
regards
don

Awesome!! amazing craftsmanship !! :thumbsup:

hi guys.
getting there slowly............need to waterproof the hull inside and out then give the fiberglass tissue skin.
it will look like a boat then...;)
still to do........
couple more hatches and searchlight [ started] and still not really sure whether to use an 'ex 450 heli brushless motor' or a 580 brushed motor.......... the brush-less will be less maintenance.........
but I could get a reversible esc cheaper for the brushed... ??? ???
regards
don

Sunk Sir..now that craft looks very awesome..really stunning..and if you are looking for a ESC, for brushed motor, to reverse it, its not a big head ache. we can simply make a speed controller, from a simple electronic circuit, up to 60 Amps,within Rs 100/-( 2 US Dollars.)by using a micro servo, in to the channel 3, can operate the speed controller.means throttle UP and DOWN.so speed of the motor will RISE and FALL, as we controls the throttle stick.now we have to forward and reverse the motor..

reversing a brushed , or , brush less motor is far easier..to reverse a motor, may brushed or brush less, we have to find two SPDT, means Single Pole Double Throw, or DPDT, Double Pole Double Throw, switches, is nothing but a simple switch, about 3 cms long and 2 cms wide.make sure the collected switch is for DC and not for AC circuits.

Sir i am posting some pictures related to ESC and REVERSERS.the fig showing a simple SPDT switches, in to 5 Amps and 20 Amps.

second fig shows the 5 Amp..close up..

and next fig shows the 20 Amp in close up..

Sir, both switches are same in appearance and internal config.but sizes are differ because of the handling capacity.we can buy these switches, from a shop, one deals for car accessories.

time to reverse the motor..we can place and fix two switces as shown, over a piece of foam board, balsa, or a thin plywood, or even on a metal sheet. you can see the arm of the servo, placed between the actuating levers of two switches, so we can switch on or off any of the switch according to our need..

the next photo graph showing the precise location of switches.

now how to reverse the motor..?  yes..its easy..take the common point from both switches. connect both wires to the motor terminals , with suppressing capacitor.a 104 pF 200 Volts DC cap is far enough.its not necessary to check the polarity at first, as we can alter the switches, or can reverse the servo, from TX..now take a wire, and connect it to the NC (normally closed, or normally contact) terminal of the switch.take an other wire with an other colour code must connect to the NO (normally opened or normally out) terminal.

now connect the ends to the battery. depress one of the switches.motor will start to rotate in one direction. release the first one and press the second one..motor will run in opposite direction..means, when the both switches are in neutral,the motor gets same - or + voltage in both terminals. so it wont run. when we press one of the switch, one of the pole gets the opposite voltage.so it starts to run..and vice verse.

and now how to operate the mechanism..we can use the second vertical stick of the TX for forward and reverse. and the throttle stick as throttle..

the ESC..it will take only some minutes to make an ESC...sir i am adding some photographs of my proven ESC here..you can see how simple and effective it is..

the second fig showing its actual size..for a comparison, i am placing it near to a cigar lighter..and weighs only 12 gms..

fig shows the throttle setups..the potentiometer is driven by a micro servo, controlled by the throttle stick of the TX.when we increases the throttle the position of the arm, of the servo varies, and drives the sliding variable resistor, fore and aft, altering the PWM signal of the ESC..so the motor speed increases and decreases..

whenever we make some thing our own, we think it as less in quality..but its not..Sir i was using this same configuration, on to many of my crafts, including the 2.7 meter ship..with two MOSFET s in parallel can hold up to 80 Amps continuous..!!we can also make some good speed controllers based on DARLING TON PAIR configuration, so it will eliminate all electronic circuits but only two transistors..

this shown configuration can handle these motors..

this..

and this..

so we can see how a simple electronic circuit drives out our modeling needs..we can reverse any motor, with this setup, and can also control the throttle level according to our needs..it can be also used on cars..

Sir. if you were near to me, within this time (postings) i would made an ESC and reverser for you..all without any cost..because its too happy to do some thing for a dedicated model maker like you..i am bowing in front of you..its a nice work.. :bow:and waiting to see her finished..and a video...ahahhh...have a nice build.. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :hatsoff:

hi roopeshkrishna ,
I am not that electrically knowledgeable.
could you list the components and show the solder connections?
or tell me how much it would cost you to make .with time spent and post I think I will buy one from you  :)  [esc]
thank you for your comments..we are all doing what we like best I think, this forum is truely professionale
regards
don

Sunk Sir..its too easy to make an ESC from handy components.i told you it will take only about 2 US dollars  :Rs:100/- at present here.and i learned all things from my helplessness, as i do not have any professional outlets here to buy..and too happy to help you in modeling needs..Sir, i hope sending you an electronic circuit may troublesome,especially in customs. so, i will post a detailed article, by oncoming days,in full detail,all that i learned from years of my experience..and i need not any money, from you, if i make an ESC and reverser for you..

in my postings i will add close up photos, pin configs, connecting methods,and all with videos..so i hope it may helpful for some of my Friends and colleagues .but it will take some time, as i have to take classes about ship modeling in Academy by today and tomorrow.dont worry Sir, to make some needed electronics you never need a deep knowledge in electronic science.a good soldering iron, (must be Earthed), a good digital multimeter,and some interest..you win..sure Sir..i will post a good article about this.. :bow:

hi roopeshkrishna
many thanks.
I will look out for those :)
I hope all goes well in the academy and you also enjoy the time spent.
regards
don

sure..Sir..i will post it in detail..and one configuration , that you can make even without a soldering iron..instead with some screws.. and thanks for the wishes.. :bow:

hi roopeshkrishna

I will keep look out for the info.;)
many thanks.
regards
don

hi guys.
update pic..............
anchor , spot light on cabin now and  2nd hatch .....................   on engine room roof................
slowly getting there, also now is a hatch in front of the wheel house, on fore deck..........not in this pic......
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/05082011188.jpg)
regards
don

hi guys,
Well I just could not resist it......... ;D ;D ;D
I had some gray primer in the shed............... 8-)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/06082011189.jpg)
first step to color...............

regards
don

HAAII....Sir its nice to see..i can just imagine the stunning look as she is finished...awesome... :hatsoff: :hatsoff: :hatsoff:

hi mate.
I am doing the tissue skin now................ pics tomorrow .......... ;)
ooooohhhhhhhh..........how loooong does this all take to dry......... ;D ;D ;D
regards
don

Sunk sir..place her in front of a table fan...it will speed up drying...waiting to see hear finished... (:|~ (:|~ (:|~ :thumbsup:

It is natural, even I loose patience when it matters painting …….

hi guys.
well............... thats the entire hull skinned with fiber glass tissue now.
so we shall see tomorrow .........how it takes to water.....when I throw it in the bath   ;D ;) ;)
.............pics tomorrow............
regards
don

hi guys.
well here it is ..still drying.......... ;D
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/skinned.jpg)
regards
don

hi guys,
well..... the water test was not bad........ slight leak at the right on the middle step section of hull bottom.... that was after sinking it to water half way up the hull, to check with a little more outside pressure  :) so I am reasonably pleased with that .........steped hulls are prone to leak at steps as there is a 'fracture' [weak piont] at the break in hull bottom line.
pics to show the draught...1/8th inch..... ;D ;D ;D
the bow.........

(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/08082011193.jpg)
and amid ships........

(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/08082011194.jpg)
the staining at the bottom of side is where the varnish I used to seal it soaked into the end of the boards :)
the same can be seen in the 'upturned wet hull' previouse pic


regards
don

Congrats Don!

nice work..Sunk sir..

hi guys.
on the drawing board..........
a gear operated rudder...............to save having servo arms and links on the deck.
here...........

(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/rudderdrive.jpg)

this will be under the depth charge rack on the stern.....hahaha of coarse ....it's a Rudder......... ;D ;D ;D
I did not want to have a servo arm from rudder post penetrating the stern, or have servo arms and links on the deck.........
so the rudder post will go to deck level and have a gear on top,
 a servo will be behind the transom also with a gear on top,
 these two gears will operate the rudder on a 1:1 ratio and will be concealed inside the depth charge rack... :giggle:
I have made the rudder with long mast and also have some tail drive gears....3mm shaft........looks simple enough....... ;D ;D ;D
any thoughts   ??? ??? ???

Sunk sir..its a nice idea..i am happy to see some nice innovations in the boat and ship segment..inspiring..and thanks for the idea.. have a nice build..waiting to see her in water...:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :hatsoff:

hi guys.
well I've tried a dry run with the gears, they are 'just' big enough with the servo against the transom .......
I will have to warm a 'cheapy pen'[they are smaller than normal pen] insert to force over the rudder mast to make it a big enough diameter for the gear bore, but that will also serve as a 'stop' to prevent the rudder dropping .
I am going to make up two swivels for the rudder mount instead  of a sheet metal one,  this will then be screw to the bottom on the keel and at top on the transom .
here........
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/rudderswivel.jpg)

regards
don

hi guys.
well the rudder mechanism went to plan, I bonded one gear onto a servo 'wheel' and the other onto the rudder shaft then cut a servo mount location from an old 'HK450' ally frame [ green ] to mount the servo......
 pics...........
servo and gears........
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/10082011200.jpg)
rudder and swivels
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/10082011199.jpg)
I just need to make another hatch now which will have the depth charge rack on it.
I prefer the 'internal' rudder mechanism, with rudder up through the keel.........it's a lot easier..... ;D
regards
don

nice efforts Sir.. :thumbsup:

hi guys.
new steering gear hatch on stern..........:)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/steeringgearhatch.jpg)
the depth charge rack will go on this.
the deck is now stuck on and ready for a layer of glass-fiber tissue to help seal it to the hull.  ;)
regards
don

hi guys,
be sure your esc is powerfull enough......... see the lipo battery explode..........

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJKuEujTw74&feature=related

not a good end to a day at the water.............. :( :( :(

I might consider building the next one in 'STEEL'  ;D ;D ;D

regards
don

hi guys,
just an update.
deck fiberglassed to hull now.
waiting for top coat of resin and then some paint.  :)

(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/waitingfortopcoatresinandpaint.jpg)
and another..............
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/headon.jpg)
I just have to put the bow wake deflector strip on now and then a second coat of resin and I can see about paint..............;)


regards
don

I absolutely love the way this baby is coming along! Bravo!

hi guys.
well ......deck had 2nd coat of resin , deck rails fixed, fore flag staff and stern flag staff fixed, torpedo racks fixed,
torpedo noses filled and sanded.
all ready for paint now then :)

(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/MAS562.jpg)

(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/MAS562A.jpg)
regards
don

AWSOME!!!!!!!!!! :hatsoff: :hatsoff: :hatsoff:

hi guys.
well I tried the motor in water today.
two motors I had were not good, so tried the last of the out-runner brush-less...........
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=knrIV9qc2I4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=knrIV9qc2I4)
I think a gear box is in order as this is a 4200rpm/v motor and got very hot along with the esc and battery after 5 mins of 'playing' in the bath as a 'direct drive' motor. the shaft started slipping in the joint towards the end.  :)
thinking either 2:1 or 3:1 gearing  ??? ???. running a 40mm racing style prop.
regards
don

Sir,
You have not mentioned the weight of the boat. I assume 3.5 to 4 kg. max. Looking at the shape of the hull, I think 12,000 rpm (max.) on 3S Lipo (i.e 1000 KV) with a three blade thrust propeller (3.5 ~ 4 cm) will give a good result. At present 4200 KV with 40mm racing prop looks to high for this type of boat. Instead of gearbox arrangement you change the motor, as well as test it on a bigger surface to fine tune the rudder.

If that demo in the bathtub is anything to go by, Donnie me boy, you've built a monster!

hi mate.
I thought it may be too powerful a motor,
I have a RS380 SH Brushed motor..would that be any good? or one that looks like a 580 brushed.
the weight without battery is 1.98kg..quite light .....unless I find I have to put ballast in :)

Hi VC yes she is a bit big........just around 3ft :)

regards
don

By 'Monster' I was referring to the power / weight ratio and not the size of the craft.

hi VC,
 yes the motor was overpowered and direct drive .......not enough torque for that,
got to sort out a gearbox from some where.cant find any marine boxes only aircraft reduction boxes.
going to try a 380 motor when the esc arrives.
I have decided to build one myself  :o  ;D ;D ;D
regards
don

hi guys.
well I thought I had the gearbox sorted......... :(
but the motor turns the wrong way so now I need to do it again with an 'idler' gear to revers rotation.  8-)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/16082011210.jpg)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/16082011211.jpg)
so will have to find another set of bearing holders now . :)
and then mount an idler gear next to the shaft out put gear.
the motor will have an11 tooth pinion fitted.
regards
don

hi guys,
as an after thought this is a 'new' SR-380SH motor according to the 'specs' it is out put cw rotation.......... could I run it 'ccw' without any ill affects.......SPECS HERE.....
http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/cgi-bin/catalog/e_catalog.cgi?CAT_ID=rs_380sh (http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/cgi-bin/catalog/e_catalog.cgi?CAT_ID=rs_380sh)
regards
don

I have seen people using two brushed motors as contra rotating, even I have used similarly in Mistal boat. But in the case of aero models some say there is little variation in speed with ccw direction, so they prefer b/l motors. In this case don't think any ill effects with ccw rotation, may be slight various in rpm, but that doesn't matter.

hi mate.
I know with 'brush-less' it makes no difference,
 but have never run brushed reverse for any length of time....this is good    :) :) :)
...no need to strip gear box and build in an 'idler gear'.  ;D ;D ;D  .
just waiting for an esc and receiver and some more paint now then.
well it may be a 9 or 10 tooth pinion on the motor ...see what I got, and is 22 teeth on the shaft drive, so thats just over half the torque to rotate the prop now.
regards
don

what lubricant is commonly used in stuffing tubes now..
I am just giving it a drop of light oil.it is bushed ends not bearings.
regards
don

I use automotive grease in the stuffing tubes. Not very particular about the grade.

Shreekant

hi guys,
any body that is thinking of doing this model .............
I have just found an exellant site where some one has researched the sister ship MAS 563.
There is incredible detail .engines fittings etc......too late for me now BUT.............
here.........
http://www.scalemodelworld.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5709&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 (http://www.scalemodelworld.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5709&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0)
regards
don

Thanks Don. That is an awesome find. Will need this some day, hopefully, soon.

hi mate.
glad some one found it handy..........brilliant site eh?
 :)

regards
don

Brilliant site for sure. That modeller is out of this world! Did you notice the rifles stacked on a rack in the below deck quarters? Now that is Master Craftsmanship!

HI MATE.
I think they are a molded rifle..... but he still went to the trouble of fitting out the hull...static model though....far too much detail for a working rc...............
but very nicely done.
regards
don

Hi guys,
well ....just an update pic.
now with depth charges and deck fittings........the deck fittings are too small a scale, I will have to make some :)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/19082011216.jpg)
I have ordered a 35mm prop to try with the brushed motor now.
regards
don

hi guys.
well I have the 35mm prop now and the rx..did an indoor range check and it worked ok through 3 walls and a metal water filled heating radiator,it was about 30feet distance but defiantly not line of sight...so I think the rx will be ok. it is set on a bulkhead and stands up into the engine room roof space.
the lake I intend to go is limited as there are wild fowl there....and usualy you can only get to one end or the other for 'clear water' :)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/eastvillelake.jpg)
so just waiting for the esc now and get some paint on.
regards
don

hi guys,
just an update.
 I have changed the motor for the 'brushed 380' and reverse-able esc here are the latest 'bath' trials :) :) :)
not so much power but seems ok as direct drive, I will have to sort out some cooling for it :)I have a heat sink fitted but got just over 'warm'  I may put a small fan inside but need to look at intakes etc and maybe open the motor section into the next hull area for more circulation, I have small motors and GWR props from direct tail on a FP heli.  :headscratch:   :giggle:  or I have a micro cp tail which is belt driven I could run that off the main motor with small blades.  :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giHsarT8JqE


regards
don

hi guys,
well I eventually went for the small tail motor and a 2 inch prop for motor cooling running off a 3v nicd pack from a rc motor bike :)
with an intake in the deck behind the main cabin and opened an engine room deck hatch for escaping air :)

(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/coolinghatches.jpg)
hatches for air

(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/coolingfan.jpg)
cooling fan
you can see the battery for the fan the other side of the bulkhead in this pic ...........blue..... a 3v pk made up of 4 x 1/2 size AAA battery
the motor heat sink 'just misses' the openings in motor by the brushes. :)

regards
don

Don Sir,

In the video - the performance is too convincing
and the desk finishing is excellent.

hi mate.
thanks for the comments............
yes I think the 380 motor will be fine.
sadly still waiting to get paint for the finish.
:)

regards
don

Don  :hatsoff:

That is and sounds like a monster!

All the effort that you have taken to build this baby is showing up in the performance.

Congratulations Sire!

hi VC
hahaha getting there slowly ;)
running it at 2.4 gig tx/rx

regards
don

Sunk Sir, eagerly waiting to see her finished..will be an awesome machine.. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Don

I am quite certain there will be no significant difference.

Sushil Sir, this thing is still haunts me..means the direction of the propeller rotation.after joining Naval Academy, i tried to rectify this doubt with many reputed veterans. but still i am not sure about it. i always listen the crafts when i saw a craft anywhere on stand..all i noticed one thing.99% of listed crafts are equipped with a prop that rotates in to counter clock direction.still most of the model kits also came with same option.i do not know why. one of the senior told me that, its designed like that to avoid the "Coriolis Effect" of the Mother Nature.and he taught me once, that, i two propped craft, inward running configuration gives high torque, while outward running configuration gives a high speed.this was sure in my study.but rotation of the prop still haunts me once..may be because of my ignorance about it..with respect.

I think this is more to do with the prop locking threads on the prop shaft. It would usually have right handed threads.. for obvious reasons that the shaft needs to be replaced and cost would go up to have a left handed thread( un-conventional). Since the locking threads are Right handed(ie: When you grip the shaft with your right hand with your thumb extended, if your four curled finger indicate the direction of rotation of the  nut on the thread then the extended thumb must indicate the travel of the nut) the propeller has to be left handed so as to avoid unscrewing of the nut if rotated clockwise.

hi guys.
it is indeed to do with the Coriolis Effect, although I don't realy understand why. depending which side of the equater you are the effect is reversed so if this is applied to full size shipping then it would cause running problems once they crossed the equator......although this only worsens really after you midway between the equator and the pole.
with models it may just be that most 'can' motor rotate CW.  which until the last few years was the only option of power. [ no brushless]
;0 ;0
regards
don

Thanks for the valuable explanations Gentlemen..Sunk Sir, i tried many experiments with these..when i fix a counter clock prop, while looking from back,the craft goes almost straight, in a long straight run..but if i use a prop rotates clockwise, the craft automatically goes to port side..yes gradually at slow speeds.but gives a high degree of turn to port side..i dont know why..

but waiting to see your craft in finish..it will be a awesome inspiration.. :thumbsup: :hatsoff:

hi mate.
yes that is the effect.
think water going down plug hole...........one side of the eqator it is CW the other side it is CCW THIS IS THE Coriolis Effect... [gravitational pull].
regards
don

thanks for the valuable knowledge Sir..once again.. :hatsoff:

Sunk Sir, may i clear one more doubt with you..? i already completed the hull work of my MS 562.and waiting to fix the motors, as i kept it for drying after applying the insulation varnish.hope run with reworked motor. so i have some spare time with it. so in to detailing. Sir, i found two lamp post like device , at port and starboard side, just in front of the torpedoes. will you tell me what device is this.? lamp posts? please.i am willing to add maximum detailing on it..including a horn. :help:

hi mate.
where did you find pic with 'lamp post' on?
I will look.
regards
don

Good morning Sir, and here is the photograph.i am bowing in front of the modeler who completed this machine. its an awesome work. so my doubt is about this device..

Good morning Sir, and here is the photograph.i am bowing in front of the modeler who completed this machine. its an awesome work. so my doubt is about this device..

hi mate.
hahaha ..................I was wondering what those were  :) ......... my thoughts.some thing to do with the torpedoes?
but I could find no information.......
regards
don

sorry  for interruption ,
  those  look  like  some  old fashioned lamp poles ....     which  can be made  to stand  and   lie  down when required ....  just  a bad  guess  i think ...                        Bot  what  are they doing  on a battle ship (i presume) as it is in the path of torpedoes ...

Wouldn't those be 'barge poles'? Used to push the boat off the quayside?

hi guys,
a suggestion from here

http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?board=93.0
I think you will find that they are Hydraphones they swivel them over the side of the boat to detect any underwater activity from other boats etc.

Gra


extremely good site for all types of boat builder.........

regards
don

Sunk Sir, i am a serious member of this forum and searched for hours here..but nothing found for a match. so i hope i must eliminate this part in my model. thank you all.. :hatsoff:

hi mate.
that one is the only model I have seen these equipment on.


regards
don

yes Sir..i am eliminating this part from my model..

hi guys,
well I have done a gray coat and it showed up too rough............I don't want it 'new finish' as this is a service boat and was prob re-painted by service personnel that 'didn't want to do it'  :)  and had a rough finish with rust and brush and water debris still on the hull etc.
so I have filled enough to take a lot out but left some to give it the worn look.

(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/finalfilling.jpg)

another gray coat will tell the tale eh

regards
don

Sir, its looking stunning, and with wearing effect, the craft will be awesome.. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Sir..hows the progress..?..waiting to see in finish.. (:|~

hi mate.
still waiting for funds unfortunately..... will get there though...
tonight I swapped out the motor and put a flex connector on [still a 380] ......that sorted out the most vibs.. got some at high revs but that seems to be the inner shaft / stuffing box bushes...so will pack it with some grease.......none in there yet just a quick squirt of light oil,
also sorted the reverse....It didn't seem to want to operate all the time ..moved throttle slider to half and bingo :) :) :).it will reverse at 90 as well as forward :) :) :).........not to be recommended though  :o :o ;D ;D ;D.
this motor is a 3 or 5 pole so has a little better torque, the other was an 8 pole but must have a slight bend in the shaft.
regards
don

its a nice news Sir..expecting a good video.. :hatsoff:

hi guys,
well after a bit of a break I have started to 'weather' the MAS...............
first some rust........... more to follow........
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/weathering.jpg)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/weathing2.jpg)
only on the wheel house and upper deck at the moment...still waiting for more 'gray' for the hull and main deck and black for the under water hull and torpedo nose cones..
regards
don

hai..Sir waiting for completion :salute: :thumbsup:..

hi guys,
well, slowly getting there.............
hull now fully painted...... just doing more on weathering/aging..........the deck-stipes still to go on .......in a battered/worn sort of way...:) :)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/103_0196.jpg)
weather here now is wet and windy and a lot colder.......down to below 10 most days.
regards
don

Good Going Don, watching with awe, this thread

Hi Don, Howz the progress on this build.. … Not sure but all of a sudden there is a big silence on the boat section ???. No update from anybody… Maharana also seems to be busy with his work so no news on his boats.
Nothing from others as well.. Roopesh, Amit, Ghanyasham, ved…. Where are all of you :headscratch:

Shreekant

hi guys,
well................ I am on a slow time at the moment..... winter is here in uk so the weather is not good for going out..wet and windy with 'high' temps of 8 degrees, so it's wrap up weather....
slowly doing the weathering on the boat, but it still has not seen proper water yet............
I am going over to 'card modeling' as the expense of electric power is getting beyond my circumstances...........
this boat will be finished but not maiden-ed until the spring now. :) :) :)
also the plane I have built has not seen wind :)
keep well people, I will pop back from time to time.
there will be a vid of the maiden voyage :)
regards
don

likewise.. -6 deg c here

hi mate.
just had our first frost of the season so it's on the way :) :) :)

regards
don