RC India

Hello Members and guests,
                                    I am very happy that one of our member Mr. Anand Paranjpe trusted me :giggle: even though I am a beginner and gave the full commisioning job of his Balsa R/C Boat kit made by our great VC Sir... Suggestions/tips needed as I have never worked with balsa before. :help: I understood the bulkhead positioning only after seeing Roopesh Sir's build log of his yellow cabin cruiser...I plan to use a 3.175 mm shafted size 540 brushed motor with 1:3 reduction gearing as suggested by Roopesh Sir.. I plan to use a single hobbyking 50mm diameter 3 blade boat prop. I have no idea how much torque servo will be required for the rudder...I think a 6-8 kg-cm torque servo should do the job....

 :help: :help: I have no idea how to go ahead or maybe some parts were left out in the kit...seeking expert advice pls call on +919321149564

I'm stuck here... :( :banghead: :banghead: :help:

sharp bend on top strip rectified as told by VC Sir...

Much better. Well done!

Attached the bottom strips...

 :headscratch: :headscratch: :headscratch: as I am having hard time figuring out which precut sheet will go where,as all are in different shapes... :help: is the long rectangle shaped sheet supposed to go on top side?? :headscratch:

Pl post a picture of all the different parts and I will try and help out. My kit is not with me right now.

the kit contains sides labelled 1A,1B, and SIDE. I am wondering by placing the 2 sides marked 1A and 1B adjacent to each other so that they can be placed on their respective sides.. which side goes on top? It either has to be 1A or 1B. :headscratch:

nice progress.. and you do not need a 5 or 6 kg servo, instead need only a mocro servo of 9 gram, and make an indirect drive shaft assy to hold the rudder.. never slips or loose torque..and add a 1 ml syringe as a flutter absorber.. can save ample of space, inside.. have a nice build.. :thumbsup:

 :headscratch: how do I achieve that??

Alok, mostly, we connects the servo arm, directly to the driven arm.. instead, make a cross over lever system, with thick bicycle spokes, and can feed one end to the driven arm, and the other end of the driven arm, can be connected to a simple syringe, as a flutter absorber.. and by adding a 50/50 rudder it will works nicely and gives you a precise control of direction especially on a big craft..  :thumbsup:

will understand better if you can kindly upload some pics/hand drawings of the servo link setup

i am witing for the monsoon, to start the work of this boat.. this will finished in to a great trawler, of tradition, as belongs to our harbor.. you can see its easy to build.. and will be very nice when finished.. long.. stable.. and thanking to respected Veteran VC Sir, once again for this great kit.. :salute: :salute: :salute:

Sure.. will up load a good log to make servo link set up.. its easy and saves lots of space and battery..  :thumbsup:
all sides are easy, as we keeps the ratio in mind.. excess can be removed by a good HD art knife..

all gaps were filled by PU putty to save weight and dry time..
and as i am going to finish as a trawler, my intention to release her in real river.. so, here i need immense torque with needed speed.. so, already reworked on three identical motors, with identical gear boxes, in to 6 volts , and 2 amps, ratio, to save battery life and reduce load.. with three props and gear boxes, she will swim for hours.. with ease..

and i have already completed needed props for this one, as two choice.. one set with high hydrofoil blades, for great torque, and one set for high speed.. both are configured to run inwards, to get more torque in pulling, while the third one at center always turn at port direction.. to comply with corriolis effect..
this one will be a nice one when finished.. with good stability.. even at high speeds..  :thumbsup:
have nice builds.. :hatsoff:

Im still figuring out which side goes where... :headscratch:

trimming the bulkheads to the sidestrips height by using a carpenters jack plane...

Alok, dont worry.. first of all take the two thick 5 mm top sheets amd make sure are identical.. then make sure all bulkheads are in 90 degree harmony, then check for un even protutions.. make it clar all by heavy duty art knife and sand paper on block.. after making sure all, you can fix the top sheets with cyano glue.. and trim out the excess to the this strips that you already fixed.. leave a margin all arounbd the top plate, at least a 4 mm.. then find two identical sheets for bottom, some times it will be this 4 sheets, and start to lay the thin sheets from the keel side to out.. glue it.. and trim the excess with a margin of 4 mm all around.. then find the sheets for the sides, and must glue within two top and bottom sheets.. glue well.. after drying can sand it out with sanding block with 120 grit.. smooth with 200 grit paper.. apply putty.. sand it again.. apply final coat.. paint it.. fix it.. RCyit..  :thumbsup:

Alok.. no need of heavy tools.. need only sanding blocks, with 80 or 120 grit..its too soft..

Roopesh as I don't have my kit with me right now, I am not being able to guide Alok on the assembly process. Do you remember which parts were numbered what? Also can you please post some more detailed pictures of your build process so that Alok can see which parts go where?

Alok I will try to get my kit across tomorrow from the godown. Actually, a cat has given birth to a litter of beautiful babies in my godown and I don't want to disturb the new family.

VC Sir, i already gave a clear idea to Alok, to build this, and the sheets marked as B1, pair, in 5 mm as top, written as SIDES, for both sides, and rust as bottom.. and now searching the written DVDs for the older photographs, as i writes all files when it reaches a good thick MB level, in DVDs.. just looking on.. and its easy to build, and still remember have to add some sheets together to attain the final shape.. that can see my posted photographs..  :salute:

sides labeled 1b go on top, 1a go to bottom, side go to side.. kindly give on how to hold the blade to trim the bulkheads parallel to the edge...a pic will do the trick...as im inexperienced with balsa...

dear VC sir, its great to hear about the new cat family!! :)

Alok, i think it is not nessesary to trim the bulk heads.. as it all are in it's shape..

 :banghead: :banghead: I trimmed them !!

Alok.. hows now..? finished..?  :thumbsup:

slept at 12 am, woke up at 8 am and was planning to get ready for work suddenly one mouse delayed the whole plan by barging in my bedroom :o :o >:(!!!!! was chasing it :banghead: :banghead: I wish VC sir's cat was here... :giggle: :giggle: :giggle:

came to my workshop now at 1130 am 2 hrs late and hope to finish by evening :thumbsup:!!!

Thanks alok for helping me out :)

excited to see it ...  (:|~

I will be using my skills generously...expecting a generosity in return ;D ;D!

Attached one half of the top plates...
will trim excess once all top plates are glued. :thumbsup:

Hold it!!! Don't glue the deck - call me URGENTLY!

!!!... :banghead:

Roopesh - we were too late but he is taking steps for damage control............. :giggle:

going home for lunch...will resume in an hour. :)

Alok.. hows it now..? completed..?  (:|~

progress update... side plate and bottom to be glued then top will be cut open. correct me if Im wrong..

found a freely available local hardware store glue which glues balsa in less than 2-3 seconds..."SPEEDY Brand" costs 20/- more i.e. 60/- for a 20ml bottle as compared to the two glue bottles which cost 40/- each which came with the kit "FLEX KWIK"... One flex kwik bottle exhausted so hence the above discovery.

 {:)} {:)} {:)}

Looking good Alok!

started putty work..?

Sharing the progress update... Finished gluing the bottom and sides and top was cut open precisely using a table mounted jigsaw machine ;D.

bought polyester putty 1 kg for 140/- from an auto paints shop as 1/2 kg tin is not available in my area...  >:(

Before applying putty is it necessary to sand the whole hull's outer surface smooth??? :headscratch:

For mixing putty I plan to use an old cdrom drives cover...or should i use sweetmeat plastic box?? :headscratch: :headscratch:

applying putty from outside is mandatory I feel so :headscratch: after drilling hole for the stuff tube and the rudder axle tube.

nicely shaped.. kneed a little putty at a time, and apply it within a minute.. and mix again, and apply.. this putty will be hardened within two or three minutes..  :thumbsup:

Bought gloves and putty knife... started filling gaps using PU putty...here's a pic... will finish in a day or two...

Good job alokh .  {:)}

my name has only four letters "Alok" no offence meant.

bought 250ml anti termite liquid tin for Rs. 74/-, 1x 1inch wide brush for Rs. 10/-,1x1.5inch wide brush for Rs. 15/- and a Surgical Mask from a pharmacy for Rs. 10/- to protect my lungs from Putty dust and antitermite liquid fumes as instructed by Roopesh Sir...

What's the latest Boss?

Applied pu putty and gave anti termite treatment and now applying nc putty 2 more coats to go. In line are the following procedures- float test, leakage tests,order gears, gearbox housing design, brushed gear motor installation, caliberation, motor loading tests, improvisation, testing, improvisation till it becomes perfect. final step- painting ;D

Well done! In future, I am going to ship my personal boat hull kits to you for completion  :giggle:. You seem to be doing a better job than what I could/would have done  :thumbsup:. That Anti Termite treatment was a new one for me.

Will be happy to do so for a fee!! :thumbsup:

Will be happy to do so for free!!  :thumbsup:

So sweet of you, thanks Alok! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

 {:)} {:)} {:)}

:laugh:

Applied PU Putty than NC Putty, then went to the nearest pond with a friend holding the hull riding pillion with me on my bike and found many villagers bathing there, heaved a sigh of relief and let the creation touch water for the first time...It felt like a baby taking his/her first steps!  ;D

Dear Roopesh Sir,
                       I am waiting for the rudder operation idea of yours using a 9 gram servo. :bow:

Great! Now take her to a carpenter and ask him to cut out a deck sheet for you from 1mm Matt Sunmica. Just lay the boat hull up (upside down) on a sheet of Sunmica and let him take an impression on the sheet. He will use a chisel and a mallet (hammer) to cut out the deck sheet. Make sure that he leaves a margin of 2 mm as he cuts it.

Also ask him to cut out the access hatch (just as you have done with the deck plans).

That being done, glue the Sunmica deck to the boat deck and sand the rough edges down. Ensure that the edges are NOT flush and leave a minimum of 1mm lip between the hull and the deck overhang. I will try and post some photos later today to explain what I am trying to say.

If I am not understood, please call me.

I partially understood your idea, what I understood is that I should cover up the deck with sunmica for good looks and still make the inner machinery accessible for future services.

Installed 3 blade 50mm diameter hobbyking boat prop and a rudder which is made by epoxying a piece of balsa to a 4mm rod from a meccano set. used brass tubing for holding prop stuff tube and rudder shaft. glued a 6 hole mecceno strip on the top deck for supporting and locking the position of the rudder tube to a perfect 90 deg. w.r.t. ground surface... the best propeller shaft angle I could get on this hull for a 50mm prop was about 20-25 deg. measured w.r.t. hull surface. I don't think this should be causing any problems. I had to drill a hole in the main centre bulkhead for inserting the stuff tube, will add a thick balsa reinforcement before sealing the hole with M Seal.

1st leakage test passed,

Next procedure in queue- 2nd leakage test by again visiting the nearest pond after sealing the prop shaft hole and rudder hole using M Seal.

Alok.. is it finished..? happy to see.. (:|~

hii anand u may help me for making my boat i make first time make so u may help me  so u may miss call me at this no 09712526344 i will call u give me this all this  information about this thanks