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« on: May 30, 2012, 10:51:40 AM »
alokhovercraft
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Hello Members and guests,
                                    I am very happy that one of our member Mr. Anand Paranjpe trusted me Giggle even though I am a beginner and gave the full commisioning job of his Balsa R/C Boat kit made by our great VC Sir... Suggestions/tips needed as I have never worked with balsa before. Help Me I understood the bulkhead positioning only after seeing Roopesh Sir's build log of his yellow cabin cruiser...I plan to use a 3.175 mm shafted size 540 brushed motor with 1:3 reduction gearing as suggested by Roopesh Sir.. I plan to use a single hobbyking 50mm diameter 3 blade boat prop. I have no idea how much torque servo will be required for the rudder...I think a 6-8 kg-cm torque servo should do the job....

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« Reply #1 on: May 30, 2012, 01:13:34 PM »
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 Help Me Help Me I have no idea how to go ahead or maybe some parts were left out in the kit...seeking expert advice pls call on +919321149564
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« Reply #2 on: May 30, 2012, 01:19:29 PM »
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I'm stuck here... Sad Bang Head Bang Head Help Me

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« Reply #3 on: May 30, 2012, 02:46:11 PM »
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sharp bend on top strip rectified as told by VC Sir...

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« Reply #4 on: May 30, 2012, 02:53:34 PM »
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Much better. Well done!
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« Reply #5 on: May 30, 2012, 04:02:43 PM »
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Attached the bottom strips...

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« Reply #6 on: May 30, 2012, 04:16:35 PM »
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 Head Scratching Head Scratching Head Scratching as I am having hard time figuring out which precut sheet will go where,as all are in different shapes... Help Me is the long rectangle shaped sheet supposed to go on top side?? Head Scratching

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« Reply #7 on: May 30, 2012, 04:22:48 PM »
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Pl post a picture of all the different parts and I will try and help out. My kit is not with me right now.
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« Reply #8 on: May 30, 2012, 04:53:50 PM »
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the kit contains sides labelled 1A,1B, and SIDE. I am wondering by placing the 2 sides marked 1A and 1B adjacent to each other so that they can be placed on their respective sides.. which side goes on top? It either has to be 1A or 1B. Head Scratching

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« Reply #9 on: May 30, 2012, 06:26:09 PM »
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nice progress.. and you do not need a 5 or 6 kg servo, instead need only a mocro servo of 9 gram, and make an indirect drive shaft assy to hold the rudder.. never slips or loose torque..and add a 1 ml syringe as a flutter absorber.. can save ample of space, inside.. have a nice build.. Thumbs Up
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« Reply #10 on: May 30, 2012, 06:44:22 PM »
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 Head Scratching how do I achieve that??
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« Reply #11 on: May 30, 2012, 06:51:12 PM »
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Alok, mostly, we connects the servo arm, directly to the driven arm.. instead, make a cross over lever system, with thick bicycle spokes, and can feed one end to the driven arm, and the other end of the driven arm, can be connected to a simple syringe, as a flutter absorber.. and by adding a 50/50 rudder it will works nicely and gives you a precise control of direction especially on a big craft..  Thumbs Up
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« Reply #12 on: May 30, 2012, 06:52:48 PM »
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will understand better if you can kindly upload some pics/hand drawings of the servo link setup
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« Reply #13 on: May 30, 2012, 07:12:35 PM »
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i am witing for the monsoon, to start the work of this boat.. this will finished in to a great trawler, of tradition, as belongs to our harbor.. you can see its easy to build.. and will be very nice when finished.. long.. stable.. and thanking to respected Veteran VC Sir, once again for this great kit.. Salute Salute Salute

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« Reply #14 on: May 30, 2012, 07:15:28 PM »
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Sure.. will up load a good log to make servo link set up.. its easy and saves lots of space and battery..  Thumbs Up
all sides are easy, as we keeps the ratio in mind.. excess can be removed by a good HD art knife..

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« Reply #15 on: May 30, 2012, 07:19:39 PM »
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all gaps were filled by PU putty to save weight and dry time..
and as i am going to finish as a trawler, my intention to release her in real river.. so, here i need immense torque with needed speed.. so, already reworked on three identical motors, with identical gear boxes, in to 6 volts , and 2 amps, ratio, to save battery life and reduce load.. with three props and gear boxes, she will swim for hours.. with ease..

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« Reply #16 on: May 30, 2012, 07:24:05 PM »
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and i have already completed needed props for this one, as two choice.. one set with high hydrofoil blades, for great torque, and one set for high speed.. both are configured to run inwards, to get more torque in pulling, while the third one at center always turn at port direction.. to comply with corriolis effect..
this one will be a nice one when finished.. with good stability.. even at high speeds..  Thumbs Up
have nice builds.. Hats Off

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« Reply #17 on: May 30, 2012, 07:44:05 PM »
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Im still figuring out which side goes where... Head Scratching
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« Reply #18 on: May 30, 2012, 08:14:09 PM »
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trimming the bulkheads to the sidestrips height by using a carpenters jack plane...

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« Reply #19 on: May 30, 2012, 08:19:35 PM »
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Alok, dont worry.. first of all take the two thick 5 mm top sheets amd make sure are identical.. then make sure all bulkheads are in 90 degree harmony, then check for un even protutions.. make it clar all by heavy duty art knife and sand paper on block.. after making sure all, you can fix the top sheets with cyano glue.. and trim out the excess to the this strips that you already fixed.. leave a margin all arounbd the top plate, at least a 4 mm.. then find two identical sheets for bottom, some times it will be this 4 sheets, and start to lay the thin sheets from the keel side to out.. glue it.. and trim the excess with a margin of 4 mm all around.. then find the sheets for the sides, and must glue within two top and bottom sheets.. glue well.. after drying can sand it out with sanding block with 120 grit.. smooth with 200 grit paper.. apply putty.. sand it again.. apply final coat.. paint it.. fix it.. RCyit..  Thumbs Up
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« Reply #20 on: May 30, 2012, 08:22:41 PM »
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Alok.. no need of heavy tools.. need only sanding blocks, with 80 or 120 grit..its too soft..
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« Reply #21 on: May 30, 2012, 08:33:34 PM »
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Roopesh as I don't have my kit with me right now, I am not being able to guide Alok on the assembly process. Do you remember which parts were numbered what? Also can you please post some more detailed pictures of your build process so that Alok can see which parts go where?

Alok I will try to get my kit across tomorrow from the godown. Actually, a cat has given birth to a litter of beautiful babies in my godown and I don't want to disturb the new family.
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« Reply #22 on: May 30, 2012, 08:50:06 PM »
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VC Sir, i already gave a clear idea to Alok, to build this, and the sheets marked as B1, pair, in 5 mm as top, written as SIDES, for both sides, and rust as bottom.. and now searching the written DVDs for the older photographs, as i writes all files when it reaches a good thick MB level, in DVDs.. just looking on.. and its easy to build, and still remember have to add some sheets together to attain the final shape.. that can see my posted photographs..  Salute
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« Reply #23 on: May 30, 2012, 09:20:32 PM »
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sides labeled 1b go on top, 1a go to bottom, side go to side.. kindly give on how to hold the blade to trim the bulkheads parallel to the edge...a pic will do the trick...as im inexperienced with balsa...
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« Reply #24 on: May 30, 2012, 09:30:23 PM »
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dear VC sir, its great to hear about the new cat family!! Smiley
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« Reply #25 on: May 30, 2012, 09:33:36 PM »
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Alok, i think it is not nessesary to trim the bulk heads.. as it all are in it's shape..
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« Reply #26 on: May 30, 2012, 10:34:06 PM »
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 Bang Head Bang Head I trimmed them !!
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« Reply #27 on: May 31, 2012, 01:51:08 AM »
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Alok.. hows now..? finished..?  Thumbs Up
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« Reply #28 on: May 31, 2012, 11:32:01 AM »
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slept at 12 am, woke up at 8 am and was planning to get ready for work suddenly one mouse delayed the whole plan by barging in my bedroom Shocked Shocked Angry!!!!! was chasing it Bang Head Bang Head I wish VC sir's cat was here... Giggle Giggle Giggle

came to my workshop now at 1130 am 2 hrs late and hope to finish by evening Thumbs Up!!!
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« Reply #29 on: May 31, 2012, 11:58:28 AM »
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Thanks alok for helping me out Smiley

excited to see it ...  Drool
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« Reply #30 on: May 31, 2012, 12:11:31 PM »
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I will be using my skills generously...expecting a generosity in return Grin Grin!
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« Reply #31 on: May 31, 2012, 12:38:15 PM »
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Attached one half of the top plates...
will trim excess once all top plates are glued. Thumbs Up

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« Reply #32 on: May 31, 2012, 12:44:15 PM »
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Hold it!!! Don't glue the deck - call me URGENTLY!
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« Reply #33 on: May 31, 2012, 12:51:21 PM »
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!!!... Bang Head
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« Reply #34 on: May 31, 2012, 12:58:43 PM »
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Roopesh - we were too late but he is taking steps for damage control............. Giggle
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« Reply #35 on: May 31, 2012, 12:59:22 PM »
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going home for lunch...will resume in an hour. Smiley
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« Reply #36 on: May 31, 2012, 04:48:27 PM »
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Alok.. hows it now..? completed..?  Drool
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« Reply #37 on: May 31, 2012, 09:55:44 PM »
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progress update... side plate and bottom to be glued then top will be cut open. correct me if Im wrong..

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« Reply #38 on: May 31, 2012, 10:17:09 PM »
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found a freely available local hardware store glue which glues balsa in less than 2-3 seconds..."SPEEDY Brand" costs 20/- more i.e. 60/- for a 20ml bottle as compared to the two glue bottles which cost 40/- each which came with the kit "FLEX KWIK"... One flex kwik bottle exhausted so hence the above discovery.




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« Reply #39 on: May 31, 2012, 11:38:42 PM »
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« Reply #40 on: June 01, 2012, 11:13:29 AM »
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Looking good Alok!
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« Reply #41 on: June 01, 2012, 03:28:33 PM »
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started putty work..?
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« Reply #42 on: June 01, 2012, 05:50:02 PM »
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Sharing the progress update... Finished gluing the bottom and sides and top was cut open precisely using a table mounted jigsaw machine Grin.

bought polyester putty 1 kg for 140/- from an auto paints shop as 1/2 kg tin is not available in my area...  Angry

Before applying putty is it necessary to sand the whole hull's outer surface smooth??? Head Scratching

For mixing putty I plan to use an old cdrom drives cover...or should i use sweetmeat plastic box?? Head Scratching Head Scratching

applying putty from outside is mandatory I feel so Head Scratching after drilling hole for the stuff tube and the rudder axle tube.

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« Reply #43 on: June 01, 2012, 07:29:56 PM »
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nicely shaped.. kneed a little putty at a time, and apply it within a minute.. and mix again, and apply.. this putty will be hardened within two or three minutes..  Thumbs Up
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« Reply #44 on: June 01, 2012, 09:00:23 PM »
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Bought gloves and putty knife... started filling gaps using PU putty...here's a pic... will finish in a day or two...

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« Reply #45 on: June 02, 2012, 08:26:21 AM »
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Good job alokh .  Clap
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« Reply #46 on: June 02, 2012, 10:26:53 AM »
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my name has only four letters "Alok" no offence meant.
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« Reply #47 on: June 02, 2012, 10:37:30 AM »
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bought 250ml anti termite liquid tin for Rs. 74/-, 1x 1inch wide brush for Rs. 10/-,1x1.5inch wide brush for Rs. 15/- and a Surgical Mask from a pharmacy for Rs. 10/- to protect my lungs from Putty dust and antitermite liquid fumes as instructed by Roopesh Sir...

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« Reply #48 on: June 02, 2012, 09:55:58 PM »
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What's the latest Boss?
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« Reply #49 on: June 02, 2012, 10:15:55 PM »
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Applied pu putty and gave anti termite treatment and now applying nc putty 2 more coats to go. In line are the following procedures- float test, leakage tests,order gears, gearbox housing design, brushed gear motor installation, caliberation, motor loading tests, improvisation, testing, improvisation till it becomes perfect. final step- painting Grin
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« Reply #50 on: June 02, 2012, 10:20:43 PM »
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Well done! In future, I am going to ship my personal boat hull kits to you for completion  Giggle. You seem to be doing a better job than what I could/would have done  Thumbs Up. That Anti Termite treatment was a new one for me.
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« Reply #51 on: June 02, 2012, 10:37:48 PM »
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Will be happy to do so for a fee!! Thumbs Up
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« Reply #52 on: June 02, 2012, 10:45:23 PM »
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Will be happy to do so for free!!  Thumbs Up

So sweet of you, thanks Alok! ROFL ROFL ROFL
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« Reply #53 on: June 02, 2012, 11:05:50 PM »
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« Reply #54 on: June 03, 2012, 03:09:11 PM »
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:laugh:
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« Reply #55 on: June 03, 2012, 03:17:19 PM »
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Applied PU Putty than NC Putty, then went to the nearest pond with a friend holding the hull riding pillion with me on my bike and found many villagers bathing there, heaved a sigh of relief and let the creation touch water for the first time...It felt like a baby taking his/her first steps!  Grin

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« Reply #56 on: June 03, 2012, 03:23:29 PM »
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Dear Roopesh Sir,
                       I am waiting for the rudder operation idea of yours using a 9 gram servo. Bow
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« Reply #57 on: June 04, 2012, 12:43:25 AM »
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Great! Now take her to a carpenter and ask him to cut out a deck sheet for you from 1mm Matt Sunmica. Just lay the boat hull up (upside down) on a sheet of Sunmica and let him take an impression on the sheet. He will use a chisel and a mallet (hammer) to cut out the deck sheet. Make sure that he leaves a margin of 2 mm as he cuts it.

Also ask him to cut out the access hatch (just as you have done with the deck plans).

That being done, glue the Sunmica deck to the boat deck and sand the rough edges down. Ensure that the edges are NOT flush and leave a minimum of 1mm lip between the hull and the deck overhang. I will try and post some photos later today to explain what I am trying to say.

If I am not understood, please call me.
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« Reply #58 on: June 04, 2012, 07:34:11 AM »
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I partially understood your idea, what I understood is that I should cover up the deck with sunmica for good looks and still make the inner machinery accessible for future services.
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« Reply #59 on: June 04, 2012, 07:51:07 AM »
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Installed 3 blade 50mm diameter hobbyking boat prop and a rudder which is made by epoxying a piece of balsa to a 4mm rod from a meccano set. used brass tubing for holding prop stuff tube and rudder shaft. glued a 6 hole mecceno strip on the top deck for supporting and locking the position of the rudder tube to a perfect 90 deg. w.r.t. ground surface... the best propeller shaft angle I could get on this hull for a 50mm prop was about 20-25 deg. measured w.r.t. hull surface. I don't think this should be causing any problems. I had to drill a hole in the main centre bulkhead for inserting the stuff tube, will add a thick balsa reinforcement before sealing the hole with M Seal.

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« Reply #60 on: June 04, 2012, 07:56:44 AM »
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1st leakage test passed,

Next procedure in queue- 2nd leakage test by again visiting the nearest pond after sealing the prop shaft hole and rudder hole using M Seal.
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« Reply #61 on: August 07, 2012, 03:14:36 PM »
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Alok.. is it finished..? happy to see.. Drool
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« Reply #62 on: August 14, 2012, 05:46:54 PM »
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hii anand u may help me for making my boat i make first time make so u may help me  so u may miss call me at this no 09712526344 i will call u give me this all this  information about this thanks
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