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« on: March 02, 2012, 09:38:57 PM »
roopeshkrishna
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Modellers..there must not be anyone, who not likes to RC a boat him or herself..but when we thinks about a rc boat, it starts from some kits..the kit employs,many parts, and took lots of works..so, we collects kit, start on a weekend, and goes on for a very long time..while dreaming in mind, about the craft, Rcying it..so, most of us always stays away, from modelling, because of the manhours and toughness to build it..but, if we can make a boat, not mere, but a stunning in look, and extreme in performance..within a very short time..it will be a nice thing ever..so, i was getting lots of requests to add an article, about a simple boat to build..so, this one is a key, can make in to any size, but adding three templates, all drawn in A3 paper, so can glue the template on a A3 paper, and can follow simple steps, and within 20 minutes you can make this simple hull, and can RCyit, within a three hours of work, if you use a quick drying NC based paint..so cool..and simple..all with foam boards... Thumbs Up

here is the full templates of the boat..when finished it will be in, 14 inch long, and 5 inch wide..can use 3 or 4 mm foam board..but i prefer a 3 mm sheet..

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« Reply #1 on: March 02, 2012, 09:43:43 PM »
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the thrirdth template..all in A3..

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« Reply #2 on: March 02, 2012, 09:47:20 PM »
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we can see all needed parts are simpler, and not used any bulkheads on..
now start to cut the deck sheet at first..can transfer the drawing with a simple pencil..

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« Reply #3 on: March 02, 2012, 09:49:35 PM »
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we can use 3, or 4 mm thick foam board for this but i prefer a 3 mm sheet..
cut the transom and side sheets..

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« Reply #4 on: March 02, 2012, 09:52:39 PM »
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Many of us have waited for a long long time for this post. Go for it Roopesh! Do it right till the end.

All boat modellers, PLEASE follow this thread.


Admin, if Roopesh takes this thread to completion, may I request this to become a 'sticky'?
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« Reply #5 on: March 02, 2012, 09:54:12 PM »
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glue in transom..you can cut out a 3mm on each side of the transom, to conceal the side sheets well inside..
stick on the side sheets..

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« Reply #6 on: March 02, 2012, 09:59:01 PM »
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VC Sir..its so happiest moment..that i realizes my humble work inspires you all..its all easy.. Salute
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« Reply #7 on: March 02, 2012, 10:02:23 PM »
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cut two thin strips from foam board, and glue it at centre line..this acts as a reinforcement, while also acts as a splash guide..
now the hull is almost ready..

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« Reply #8 on: March 02, 2012, 10:05:51 PM »
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dilute some NC putty with NC thinner..pour inside the hull and shake all the while, as the diluted putty covers all edges..
now add a simple prop tube..made from ball point pen body and brass bushings..

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« Reply #9 on: March 02, 2012, 10:10:31 PM »
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add the lift ridges ..it will help to reduce drag on water..
now its complete..you can see the natural nose up attitude of the hull, it came automatically because of the flexibility of foam board..

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« Reply #10 on: March 02, 2012, 10:13:58 PM »
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now time to add the motor..we can add any motor, or gear box..but here i took a motor from a CD drive, and reworked for 6 volts 2 amps, in delta..the motor weighs only 12 grams..and its too tiny, but much powerful than a EP 400...and no load current is 700 mA, while load current is 2.3 Amps..but with a high power needed...

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« Reply #11 on: March 02, 2012, 10:16:40 PM »
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rework..add wires..no need any thick gauge wires as this motor drops a less current..at load..

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« Reply #12 on: March 02, 2012, 10:19:24 PM »
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attach a 4 mm bicycle spoke nipple on motor shaft..with a cross drilled hole..
and add a rudder control tube with brass tube, copper tube, or even with a ball point pen refill..

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« Reply #13 on: March 02, 2012, 10:21:47 PM »
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make sure the positions all over the tubes..seal it all with epoxy glue..
time to fix motor..once again..can use any motor..but i am using this CD drive motor because of the light weight, immense power, but never heats up..no special metal frames or anything needed..just glued on a piece of foam board..this makes boat making even more simple..

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« Reply #14 on: March 02, 2012, 10:26:02 PM »
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add rudder servo..can use a circular flange from a servo arm kit..a micro servo is far enough..
add a rudder plate like this..a bigger surface gives us a instant control..and can add any prop, of you..here for simplicity, i fixed a prop from a ship kit..

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« Reply #15 on: March 02, 2012, 10:29:28 PM »
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now..our boat is ready..you can use it as a bare hull..or can add any type of super structure..on it..for an example..here..

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« Reply #16 on: March 02, 2012, 10:33:28 PM »
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or these types..

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« Reply #17 on: March 02, 2012, 10:35:47 PM »
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or these..

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« Reply #18 on: March 02, 2012, 10:38:34 PM »
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this time, my line of model boats, lacks a lobster boat..so, i decided to finish this as my new lobster boat..so, adding the hold net box at rear end..all foam board and aluminum nets..

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« Reply #19 on: March 02, 2012, 10:41:36 PM »
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all super structure works are based on laminated papers..you can simply sue 2 or 3 mm foam board for this same purpose..all cool..
here my lobster boat is taking shape on the same hull..

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« Reply #20 on: March 02, 2012, 10:44:32 PM »
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rear view..the craft is proportioned for a good balance and stability..from my experiences..
now paint it with intended colors..

will she performs well..? up to expectations..?

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« Reply #21 on: March 02, 2012, 10:44:39 PM »
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« Reply #22 on: March 02, 2012, 10:57:31 PM »
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its all simple and easy Nehu..and sorry for the delay..MOM is angry as time for supper is over..
Once again..the above templates are only a key..you can increase the size to any , by adding it to any apropriate software, and can print in big papers for bigger crafts..for bigger crafts please use 4 mm sheets..this boat costs about 120 Rs..when finished..with painting..to me paint costs about 30 Rs/- so, now the checkout time..she is so stable and agile..even at high speeds she is so stable..but light..

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« Reply #23 on: March 02, 2012, 11:02:03 PM »
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now in water..look..once..how simple to make one..i took about 2 hours to complete this one..with some coffee..and noodles..she wrooms as the powerful motor pumps her in a violant speeds..

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« Reply #24 on: March 02, 2012, 11:05:35 PM »
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now..lights on..all used L E D s are 4.5 volt based..you can use ordinary bulbs, but remember..it eats battery fast..

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« Reply #25 on: March 02, 2012, 11:15:16 PM »
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Friends..we can use this hull as a bare hull for expiriments, or as a scow, or for a row boat, as a pleasure craft, as a spped boat, a Police boat, a Patrol boat, luxury boat, fishing trwler, shrimp boat, work boat....and on and on..
now, the video time..sure..i got gokul today..so good videos..hands free as Gokul RCs her..the video taken about 4/1 of total throttle..the maximum feasible throttle level is just under half..motor is far powerful, at 1.8 amps..so, about half throttle, the craft starts to pounds in water..because of light weight..i added nothing for ballast..but the weight of 1800 ma/H battery is nothing to her..as the foam board bouyant itself..so..cooool boat..i gave her name as LOBSTREEA..is my lobster boat..




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« Reply #26 on: March 02, 2012, 11:45:45 PM »
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sirji one silly question

in pix there is two side
1. port side
2. stbd side

for what is this?  Head Scratching
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« Reply #27 on: March 02, 2012, 11:59:33 PM »
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Nehu, imagine you are standing inside the bridge of a ship( crew cabin), while looking towards the nose of the ship..so, you have two sides of you as your Left and your Right..in ships and aircrafts, these two sides never denots as the ship's left side or as air crafts left side..instead, the two sides of ships and aircrafts are denoted by, PORT and STARBOARD..means, when you stand inside the bridge, of a ship, or in a cock pit of an aircraft, while looking towards its nose, your Left side, will be the Left side of the ship, or aircraft..this side known as PORT SIDE..and this side is indicated by a RED light or RED colour..and your Right side will be the Right side of ship, or aircraft..this side will be known as STARTBOARD SIDE..is indicated by GREEN light or GREEN colour..actually, i do not know why these colour codes and name became..but my researches, and advices from veterans, shows, it became as, because, in ancient times, the PORT SIDE was used to load and unload cargos from an aircraft or ship..so, the airport, or shipyard must be designed to accomodate these mandatory..so, PORT side is LEFT side..and STARBOARD side is RIGHT side.. Thumbs Up
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« Reply #28 on: March 03, 2012, 12:04:59 AM »
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the LEFT side and RIGHT side of a ship or aircraft is denoted by two colours as RED and GREEN..there is an easy way to remember it..

PORT                                                   STARBOARD
LEFT                                                    RIGHT
RED              are shorter words..while,      GREEN  are longer words to remember... Thumbs Up
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« Reply #29 on: March 03, 2012, 12:09:00 AM »
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THANKS SIRJI

thanks for ur detail explanation.......... Hats Off Bow Hats Off Bow

 
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« Reply #30 on: March 03, 2012, 12:11:13 AM »
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its all simple nehu..you may listen a Red and Green lights on ships bridge and the wing tip of an aircraft as navigation lights..
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« Reply #31 on: March 03, 2012, 10:30:31 AM »
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Please keep this thread alive and continue to show us how to rewind the CD Rom Motors.
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« Reply #32 on: March 03, 2012, 10:44:12 AM »
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Good morning VC sir..its sure..with areworked motor, we can save ample of battery life, lots of running time, no more heat loss, no more gearings..and with a little experience, we can rework on all motors at ease, and can change it all for our specific needs..by tonight, i will try to start..but up to that time, still working on more crafts..please never consider rewinding a motor as a big job..it will take about 20 minutes, and can rewind it to star or delta..and nowadays EScs are too cheap, than making own..an 18 Amps (theoratically) ESC costs about 450/-Rs..so, with a 18 amps ESc, can make a ship, or patrol boat with a span of 34 inchess..works perfectly..will add more types of hulls..various shapes..war ships..its all easy..and i expect many boats and ships here.. Salute
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« Reply #33 on: March 03, 2012, 04:06:20 PM »
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Awesome project! The boat's simply superb!
PS: The lake where you shot the video is so good. We don't find any of these here in hyderabad, except for a hussain sagar that's terribly, terribly polluted.... Sad
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« Reply #34 on: March 03, 2012, 08:57:26 PM »
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Hyd..my place is graced by God..its a cool place..three sides of my native is covered by Arabian sea, Mahe river, and paddy fields, along with western ghatts..lots of flying fields..and water sources.. Thumbs Up
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« Reply #35 on: March 03, 2012, 09:33:13 PM »
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I wish I were there...
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« Reply #36 on: March 03, 2012, 11:51:28 PM »
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Friends..another simple boat with foam board..

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Re: Make a simple Boat, and RCyit in three hours..
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« Reply #37 on: March 03, 2012, 11:56:44 PM »
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simple..and easy..

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« Reply #38 on: March 04, 2012, 12:00:43 AM »
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completion..

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« Reply #39 on: March 04, 2012, 12:05:21 AM »
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in action..look..how simple it is...

see action..

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« Reply #40 on: March 04, 2012, 11:54:09 AM »
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NICELY DONE
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« Reply #41 on: March 04, 2012, 08:39:53 PM »
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thank you.. Thumbs Up
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« Reply #42 on: March 04, 2012, 08:58:04 PM »
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Awesome Sir
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« Reply #43 on: March 04, 2012, 10:43:20 PM »
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thank you..preparing some nice steps of reworking on a CD drive motor..will share soon.. Thumbs Up
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« Reply #44 on: March 10, 2012, 04:43:41 PM »
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here is the link for reworking on a CD motor..
http://www.rcindia.org/electric-power/simply-convert-the-cd-drive-motors-for-your-crafts/msg93022/#new
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« Reply #45 on: March 17, 2012, 12:58:09 PM »
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Roopesh sir....so i think its easy to make a boat more than a balsa kit......thank you for uploading and sharing the new ideas........... Hats Off Bow Clap
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« Reply #46 on: March 18, 2012, 11:14:28 AM »
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Its really wonderful... I will definitely make one following your footsteps... Thanks for sharing!!
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« Reply #47 on: March 18, 2012, 11:21:46 AM »
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its very easy..and gives sheer pleassure of RCying.. Salute Hats Off
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« Reply #48 on: March 18, 2012, 12:27:44 PM »
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Roopesh sir,you are an absolute genius and gods gift to this forum. You inspire all us newcomers with your quest for achievement and your humble,yet turbocharged attitude. It's a pleasure to read your topics and learn so many things everyday. Keep up the gr8 work sir !!
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« Reply #49 on: March 18, 2012, 12:41:51 PM »
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Dr G.. if we examine once around us, we will find ample of needed things there..and can go to any extreme with it.. so anyone can make models and enjoy.. all ourselves.. and happy to know that my humble works inspires you all..  Salute
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« Reply #50 on: April 30, 2012, 01:46:22 PM »
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gud one sir! i definitely look forward to make a similar one before this monsoon....
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« Reply #51 on: April 30, 2012, 04:35:23 PM »
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nice to hear..  Salute
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« Reply #52 on: May 01, 2012, 03:48:08 PM »
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Hello Roopesh Sir,
                          I really like your boat. I have just started making a boat for myself using your plan. I will be really happy if you could guide me. how does a cd rom motor work with rc equipment? Help Me Help Me

Alok from Mumbai
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« Reply #53 on: May 01, 2012, 10:12:36 PM »
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 Help Me Help Me what  do u use to stick the sheets together? I used Fevi Kwik 203 grade (fast drying C.A. Glue) and ended up gluing the boat to the glass table top and eventually it got spoilt when I tried my best to detach it.. Help Me Help Me
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« Reply #54 on: May 02, 2012, 08:39:04 AM »
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to make this boat, you do not need any high end glues.. but you can use the normal house hold super glue, can buy a tube for Rs 20/- will work nice.. and place a news paper under the work piece always saves us from sticking on.. will be nice... Hats Off
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« Reply #55 on: May 02, 2012, 12:41:25 PM »
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In my second attempt I completed joining the cut foam pieces,with minor gaps( will seal it using the NC Putty and NC Thinner method need help  Help Me on the proportions of both chemicals...) this time I held the sheets in my hand and prevented gluing it to the table!

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« Reply #56 on: May 02, 2012, 10:55:03 PM »
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bought 1/2 kg N.C. Putty for Rs. 80/- and 1 ltr N.C. Thinner for Rs. 60/- and sealed the gaps in my craft...drilled a hole for the prop shaft tube and glued the prop tube to the hull so far....will click a pic and upload tomorrow...
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« Reply #57 on: May 03, 2012, 03:28:09 PM »
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here's d pic... Clap

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« Reply #58 on: May 04, 2012, 10:06:02 PM »
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Added Water intake and exhaust for motor cooling...

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« Reply #59 on: May 04, 2012, 10:09:24 PM »
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The cooling coil joined to the intake and exhaust using silicon tubing...

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« Reply #60 on: May 04, 2012, 10:31:14 PM »
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Well done Alok! Very neat build. Please elaborate on the drive shaft coupling - it looks interesting.
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« Reply #61 on: May 05, 2012, 10:09:46 AM »
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Hello Great VC Sir! Bow Bow It is a boat prop kit. It has an insert moulded nylon ball and socket joint.i.e. a socket coupling fits at the motor end and ball fits the driveshaft on which the prop is screwed on....If you wish to buy then kindly PM me your postal address...
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« Reply #62 on: May 05, 2012, 10:17:00 AM »
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Very interesting Alok. We must get together, I live in Khargar
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« Reply #63 on: May 05, 2012, 10:43:13 AM »
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Alok.. you do not add the thinner to NC putty, to conceal the gaps.. but need to dilute the NC putty, to pour inside, as it seals all gaps as water tight.. and it is too happy and inspiring the work, from you, as this will inspire lots of modellers to make nice crafts.. great attempt.. and have a nice success.. and if have any doubt, ask me.. will help you.. its a pleasure.. Thumbs Up
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« Reply #64 on: May 05, 2012, 10:44:42 AM »
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@Alok - PM sent. What's with the "GREAT VC Sir"?? Just keep it simple lad, 'VC' is enough. Thumbs Up
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« Reply #65 on: May 05, 2012, 11:59:22 AM »
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VC Sir.. its yes.. GREAT VC Sir.. thats because you are the great inspiration to us all..  Salute Salute Salute Hats Off
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« Reply #66 on: May 09, 2012, 04:27:56 PM »
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Dear Mr. Sanjay,
 
I live in Nerul,Navi Mumbai
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« Reply #67 on: May 09, 2012, 04:34:49 PM »
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I must say that Mr. Roopesh Krishna is an inspiration for me.... Hats Off as I had wasted Rs. 2000 in acrylic sheets trying to make a boat hull!!!!!!  Bang Head

and rcindia is the best place to start RCying...  Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
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« Reply #68 on: May 09, 2012, 09:13:43 PM »
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yes.. be inspired..because all we are RC INDIANS... Salute Salute Salute
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« Reply #69 on: May 10, 2012, 02:24:50 PM »
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 Smiley Smiley Smiley Smiley Smiley Smiley Smiley Smiley Smiley Smiley Smiley Smiley
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« Reply #70 on: May 21, 2012, 04:10:17 PM »
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painted the first base layer colour...

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Re: Make a simple Boat, and RCyit in three hours..
* Photo1872.jpg (47.23 KB, 800x600 - viewed 792 times.)
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« Reply #71 on: May 21, 2012, 04:14:29 PM »
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made a stand for my craft using 3mm foam board...

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Re: Make a simple Boat, and RCyit in three hours..
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« Reply #72 on: May 21, 2012, 04:24:15 PM »
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« Reply #73 on: May 21, 2012, 07:48:37 PM »
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test video of the central lock mechanism gearbox motor in my craft...How do I make it go same speed at 6 volts?? I was testing it it 10 volts and 12 volts max...It will help saving some battery weight as I am planning to use 650mah nicad cells after making a pack.....


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bX2TGyMm3EQ&feature=youtu.be
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« Reply #74 on: May 21, 2012, 08:43:15 PM »
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Alok, rewind your motor for 3 volts 1 Amps.. will works nicely at 6 volts.. you can use 26 SWG wire for smaller motors..
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« Reply #75 on: May 21, 2012, 08:52:56 PM »
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some facts about propultion that i learned from my experience.. if you hae low RPM gearbox, or low RPM due to half voltage instead of needed, can use it for high torque, by adding big diameter prop, with very high angle.. these props can make from aluminum sheets, or brass sheets.. can alter the pitch of the blades as trial and error.. if you have a high speed gear box, please do not feed a 6 volt motor to 12 volt, as it burns, can use small dia props with shallow angle.. but if you are a person who can rework on any motor, you can decide the RPM and power of the motor in a look.. most of the time, i saw , lots of power is wasted in the form of cavitation and slippage.. to avoid that we can make our own props and rework on motors, will allow us a perfect combination of power set up.. these are can be seen my latest boats and ships, one uses the basic idea i expalined.. running time for hours.. performance.. for long time.. no cavitation.. here you can increase the speed by altering the pitch of the blade, or by increasing the motor speed.. a mere 3 volt motor can pump out your craft over water.. but still will take good rework..rework it.. fix it.. enjoy Rcying..  Thumbs Up
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« Reply #76 on: October 12, 2014, 10:30:10 PM »
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Is The material used is sun board.? Can I start with 4mm strong foam .? Say depron?
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« Reply #77 on: October 13, 2014, 07:38:52 PM »
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radiocraft yes it is sun board 3mm for sides and 4mm for deck it is easily available  for boat building you should not use depron and sun board is very cheap too in my place 3feet by 6feet 3mm sheet is not more than 250/- i build 2 boats with sun board all 3mm no problem and simply remember the basic ratio of boat width and length ex: boat length is 24" boat width should be minimum of 6" width*4 OK
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« Reply #78 on: October 13, 2014, 08:47:04 PM »
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@Radiocraft, this thread is very informative, but the one who stared this is no more active on the forum, so if your qs. is intended to him , no use of it ... Hats Off
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« Reply #79 on: October 13, 2014, 10:25:22 PM »
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Ty everyone!
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« Reply #80 on: June 23, 2017, 02:15:56 PM »
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Sir plzz how you wired servo.... Plzz sir kindly send me schenatic diagram of electronics on boat....
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« Reply #81 on: September 03, 2017, 04:14:32 PM »
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Roopeshkrishna is now activated on Facebook and u can join him
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