The 1919 Treaty of Versailles, prevented Germany from producing any warships but the building of small patrol and pleasure craft were allowed. In 1927 a rich German named Otto Kahn commissioned a ship builder, Lürssen, to build him a private yacht, the Oheka II. She was to be the design that gave birth to the Schnellboot a few years later. More details about the Schnellboot can be found here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E-boat#Development

The British nicknamed them 'E Boat', presumably, E denoted Enemy.

 

Italeri manufactures a 1/35 Scale kit of the boat. It is magnificient and it costs about Rs.10,000/-.

I have been fascinated by Motor boats and Torpedo Boats ever since I was a child. As I grew older and read Commando Comics, I learnt about the German E Boat or Schnellboot. It was love at first sight.

As with the RC Hovercrafts and the PT 109, I had to be besotted with a model where detailed plans are not available anywhere on the net. Scour available photographs, research and arrive at/guesstimate the required dimensions. I’ve been doing that for the last 18 months for the Schnellboot.

The reason why I am starting this thread is to totally commit myself to this project, to force myself to continue despite all odds and to threaten myself with ignominy if I let this thread die without maidening this boat.

“Scratch building is all about simplicity, creativity, ingenuity, an art of utilizing least resources, making do with whatever little available and creating a masterpiece.” Sandy.

I agree with all of the above and have set out on yet another endeavour. Don’t know about the ‘masterpiece’ bit.  That remains to be seen. I would like to add some more definers to Sandy’s parameters – belief, passion, courage and persistence.  You must have the belief that you can do it and the passion to make it happen – the courage to jump into it and, finally, the persistence to carry on despite the multiple frustrations (especially for Indian scratchbuilders) and see it to the end.

What can compound the frustrations of a modeller is if he/she is aiming at building a Scratchbuilt Scale Model.

We have seen a lot of self designed/scratchbuilt thermocole / not to scale boats that are simple yet awe inspiring. This time around, however, I wanted to build a scale boat using the good old fashioned strip planking method that would result in a 1:48 Scale Kriegsmarine Schnellboot and be a worthy partner for my PT 109 Motor Torpedo Boat built to the same scale.

Please wish me luck.

Step 1 : Get the line plans, reduce them to an approximate 1:48 scale and cut out the keel from 6mm ply and a deck template from 4mm ply.

Step 2 : Draw out the bulkhead templates and trace them out on paper - take them to a photocopier shop and keep reducing it till they roughly match the required dimensions. In this case reduced to 83%.

Step 3 : Cut these out from the photocopy paper and paste them on 3mm Foam Board.

Now that my bulkheads are ready, I need to form my 'skeleton'. Align the keel on the plan and mark out the points where the bulkheads are supposed to be. Cut notches at the bottom of the foam bulkheads and slide them into place.

I have used the deck template to mark out the positions. This template will be used to cut out the actual deck.

I have used Flex Kwik (Industrial C.A.) to temporarily glue the bulkheads in place. Once the hull has been planked, they will be epoxied in place, from the inside, permanently.

I found some light wood strips. The carpenter could not identify the genus of the wood, he simply called it 'Chinese Wood'.  I decided to use this as my planking material, as balsa would be too expensive and brittle on impact.

These 'Chinese Wood' lengths were sliced into 5mm strips. The length of each strip has to be 25% more than the entire length of the boat. After planking, this extra length will have to be trimmed.

As is visible from the third picture of the earlier post, the deck has already been cut. The Schnellboot features a split level deck. The approximate areas for placing the various electronics have been marked.

The skeleton slowly takes shape as the deck is temporarirly glued in place.

She is going to be around 29" in length and will be longer than the PT 109, built to the same scale, by more than 9".

The original PT 109 measured 80' with a beam of 21'. The Schnellboot measured 109' with a beam of 17'. This difference in size will be more clearly visible once the boats are displayed side by side in a 1:48 scale.

Alrighty! Enough of dilly dallying. Let's start the all imortant planking process. One has to be very careful as we do this. Any errors now will reflect in a misshapen hull. If the bulkheads are not ABSOLUTELY SYMMETRICAL, we have to use strips of card or foam to rectify the shape as we go along.

It is a good idea to start the planking from the top sides and work towards the bottom of the hull in a symmetrical manner. Gluing the strips in an alternately - one port, one starboard. After laying on a few strips on the sides, we can start the planking from the centre of the bottom (nearest to the keel) and work our way outwards.

Excesses have to be trimmed away - ONLY AFTER THE GLUE HAS SET. We can't be impatient here. I used my Dremel.

This is where the build stands as of now, after 2 weeks of work. Would appreciate comments, questions and suggestions.

Thanks for viewing.

VC,

Good build log. After completion, add rest to last. But for information for you please.

The strips flooded in kolkata too. And the joined Teak wood, CNC'ed door. Yesterday on a office trip to Chandannagar for lighting, I just saw the different woods available, flooded the market. Long pieces are from different light wood from very large wood pieces unloaded at Khiderpur dock. Strangely, at Razabazar area (near Armhast street and M. G. Road crossing, I saw a few days before, wet woods are cut into very thin pieces and then similar design pattern is done (Patterning room is inside AC area and closed.) But cannot see the dryer. The most pattern wooden long pieces are sold near Jaanbazar. All the things are available here at kolkata, except with true helping mind. Klen dryer even make Khirish wood to near balsa (more strength). Even Shimul too.

You will be surprised perhaps looking the light packing wood ( Pine ?) market in Dock area. The woods are collected after opening the Containers and loading to trucks. The woods are so cheap and light, but strong and seasoned, that temporary structures like pandals, Ladders and even furnitures are made with them (However very cheap for their quality and lifetime).

And inside chandni, in a few sawmill, I saw making light wood to look and feel like Segun (Teak) by dipping in boiling mixure and keeping for time. (Near Adhesive shop of that market, you know). Even I have too much (work)loaded, I cannot manage to visit there.

Really feeling sad for real enthusiasts who can make the hobby to everyone.

I was thinking of buying this as an embellishment for the boat, though again I want to scratch build it:

http://www.luckymodel.com/scale.aspx?item_no=TA%2032554

It was the favourite weapon of the Kriegsmarine sailors for its punch.

She is going to be much longer and slimmer than the PT 109.

nice build... i always wanted to build a boat... and also did.. will post the pics after the event(for which it is built) is over... and its a speed boat. (just a novice try)

VC sir if u can send some of this chinese wood.. also with the stuff u were suppose to send down, would be mush helpful..!
  

I am literally dragging my feet on this construction. Building the all important 'Kalotte' or Skull Cap Bridge is going to be a challenge. It will have to be scale crafted out of 48 individual sections. I am terrified.

Sure Vishwa, I have plenty lying around, but I can only send you 6" or 8" pieces.

The planking is almost over. The lines have come together well. I should finish it tomorrow. Then starts the long process of sanding, filling, sanding, priming and final sanding.

Fingers are constantly crusted thick with CA.

In small towns, humanity exists. Rather, the warmth of humanity is felt more as the community is closer knit and less commercial. I was very touched when my neighbourhood carpenter (who supplied the 'Chinese Wood' strips) sent across a priceless gift for me. A bottle of Industrial Wood Fill CA and a bag of fine sawdust. It is going to prove invaluable when I start sanding, filling and sanding the hull.

This is exactly what I needed, and he was proactive enough to understand it.

Sir,

How do you plan to drive this heavy Boat....?

I guess Engine?

Electric drive. I have to now decide whether I am going to use a single 550 motor or 2 to 3 smaller motors. The original Schnellboot was driven by 3 engines and 3 props. By the way, she is not going to be too heavy - max 1.5 Kg AUW.

VC
This wood fill and sawdust (I use wood dust) is great gapfiller esp for my kind of coarse, fast model building, great gap fillers, in fact you can use wood with natural holes, just fill it it up and sand it. Try wood powder (Powdered in a Mixer grinder )

Due to a family exigency, all modelling efforts had almost ceased for the last 10 days or so. Over the last couple of days I decided to craft all the guns for the Schnellboot from scratch. Here is the first, the most difficult one, the Flakvierling 20 mm - 4 barrelled, anti aircraft gun. It was not 'standard' equipment for a Schnellboot, but many Commanders preferred to have this installed on their boat as a defensive wall against attacking enemy aircraft.

My Flakvierling measures around a total of 3" in length and is constructed out of 72 individual parts that were cut and sanded to shape. The barrels elevate up and down and traverse through 360 degrees. These photographs were taken after the first coat of primer, additional details like the Loader's seats and Magazine clip holders etc., are still to be done.

Materials used: Bicycle spokes and nipples, scrap wood, foam board, blue styro, cardboard, bamboo twigs, glue gun candle (cut piece) and two 'bindis' purloined from the wife!

Work continues.............Yes, I am happy with this one!

I wanted to be more precise with the detailing but have somehow (for the time being) convinced myself that this was just an accessory on a bigger build. Let it be............for now.

Dear.VC,

The TRUE, REAL BOAT Modelling.... I just could not express how I felt on seeing this build log. A feast to the eyes of a modeler.

 

Rao

VC Subscribed How did I miss this thread. 

A real feast to the eyes of a modeler. I must second that.  Really great detailing.






PS: VC I am still a common man who is yet to be significant enough and to be quoted.  However 

Thanks Sandy and Rao Garu.

One lesson that I need to unlearn is that a well detailed model is always the norm. This is masochism of the highest order. Detailing and super detailing is great but not a definite requisite for a working RC model. After all, at a 1:48 scale, details are not very visible from a distance of 5 feet.

However, till I unlearn that and till Roopesh and Maharana continue to inspire me, here is what I have been upto for the last couple of weeks.

The twin barrelled machine gun first at seemed satisfactory., but when I re scaled it, the dimensions were way off. Surgery was unavoidable. Barrel length had to be reduced. The shield has to be re fixed. Once this is painted, it will be unrecognisable, I hope.

Not many have attempted to scratch build the later model Schnellboots. Particularly due to the difficulty of crafting the 'Kalotte' (Skullcap) Bridge. So many individual pieces have to be joined to create this unique structure.

Now that I have somehow managed to replicate this, I am breathing a HUGE sigh of relief. It wasn't easy. Unlike some other genius scratchbuilders on this forum, I won't commit the effrontery of stating 'So easy - no problem'   The detailing is still left. The sectioned plexiglass wind shield will be added last.

Sir,

Your work is going awesome for Schnellboot...!!

You mentioned the highest degree of masochism (Obviously I had to google it) is visible from the finished masterpiece...!

Those guns look stunning... I can't wait to see them painted, mounted and realistically accounted...

Thanks Adi! Hope I fulfill your expectations.

Decided to invest in a Tamiya Soldiers Kit to add realism to the final model. The Wehrmacht figures will, of course, have to be modified to represent their Kriegsmarine counterparts, that shouldn't be too difficult. This particular kit is authentic and supplies a wide variety of accessories and additional weapons. Along with the German Kar 98 rifle and the MP 40 Schmeisser, there are several pieces of the Panzerfaust, MG 42, the American Garland Rifle and, most surprisingly, 2 pieces of early AK 47 rifles. Interesting anachronisms.

Some more............

i just love the machine gun

indeed ! super build, i hope you can make it to the abode of clouds.

I've decided to turn this log into a real time blog. I'll try and post the details of the work accomplished daily.This so that I can recall the chronological sequence of events at a later date.

Yesterday I started the process of filling up the cracks between the chine strips. 3 consecutive layers of Marine Fevicol followed by a spray of sawdust. The 3rd. layer is drying now. Tomorrow I start the Quickfix + Thinner sealant on the outside and the Epoxy sealant coats on the inside of the hull.

Relevant build pictures can be found here (Not posting the pictures here again as that would be deemed repetitive):

Reply#19 http://www.rcindia.org/tools-materials-and-building-techniques/tips-tricks-hints-shortcuts/msg128928/#new

This picture was taken after the final Fevicol + saw dust coat, applied at 9pm.

One of the most difficult phases of this build is going to be the Triple Rudder set up for achieving the "Lürssen-Effekt". This is what made the Schnellboot so dangerous as its visibility changed and speed increased when the rudders were activated. Posting a diagram (modified from one that I found on the net - Danke Herr Guido Hopp) which shows how it worked.

This boat is planned with a triple screw / motor setup.

After the third coat of Fevicol / dust had dried hard overnight, I decided to sprinkle Wood CA all over the hull. This will prevent whatever loose saw dust there is from coming off while being brushed with Quickfix diluted in thinner.

Thereafter it was time for the Quickfix diluted in thinner coat. There was some old red paint in the mixing tin and that blended into the liquid. Hence the red colour!

Three tubes of (15ml x 3 = 45 ml) Quickfix were used - diluted with about 100 ml of NC Thinner

This thread is really inspiring

Please note that this boat is going to be a cumulative of all the efforts of my friends all over India (from Shillong to Bangalore) who have guided me and answered my queries and helped to solve every hitch (still doing so as the build progresses). I may build it, but there are a lot of worthies who have been (and still are) pitching in with help 24 x 7.

I won't commit the effrontery of calling my own workmanship "inspiring" or "stunning beauty" etc. However, if the boat does turn out as planned, my team and teachers are responsible for it. Honest!

Instead of applying an Epoxy sealant on the inside surfaces of the hull, I decided to save time, effort and money. Found an old tin of Soft Cut Automotive Putty and diluted it with thinner. 3 coats of the viscous stuff sealed all nooks and crannies. Looks good too!

Also decided to make new fore and main decks out of 3mm foam. Have roughly cut out 2 sheets of each (one with and another against the grain - yes, I've realised that this foam also has a kind of grain - its easier to cut in one particular direction, not so easy the other way.) Will result in a 6mm deck. That will make it easier to sand off the edges into a bevelled / rounded finish. The entire main deck assembly will be removable and will be attached to the hull with studs. I need to think of a suitable water proof gasket/sealant between the edge of the removable deck section and the hull.

vc
Lürssen-Effekt is more like a 'v' tail, no, great piece of work there

Thanks Gusty, for reassuring me - you will have to work this out for me. It is the '30 degrees out and then 13 degrees in' that had me perplexed. In the original, this was achieved by two soldiers working manually on a pair of winches in cramped quarters - here you will have to guide me on building /activating this with a single servo.

Cheers and thanks for being there.

VC
will send a document on how 2D controls works in 3D (i.e pitch and yaw)

1. Hull sanded down. Labourious process. My forearms remind me of Popeye at the end of it.

2. Now I need to apply Automotive putty and resand all over again.

3. The main deck has a curved surface. Centre line is higher than the sides.

4. Self explanatory.

1. Soft Cut putty applied. It is ready for wet sanding now. Will be using 150 grit Dry/Wet black emery paper.


2. Torpedo exit bays have been cut out.

1. The G 7 Torpedo - Length 7163 mm / Dia 533 mm (approx 23ft.7in. X 21in). At  1:48 scale it works out to 149 mm (just under 6 in.) length and 11 mm dia. This is what and how I achieved the basic structure.

Added a wooden dowel and applied M Seal. Let it dry hard and then sanded it to shape and applied a coat of paint.

It would have been easier making just any torpedo, but I choose to stay in scale. Scratchbuilding involves a LOT of research, if you want your model to be scale accurate. If you want to build something that just about looks like the original and only has to move fast - its a much easier proposition.

An ever trusted brand Reynolds... 
Great work sir... 

                                                                        ACHIEVING SCALE SPEED

The Schnellboot had a top speed of around 43 Knots which translates to approximately 80 Km.p.h. Using the scale speed calculator, this model will have to traverse 1.66 km in an hour. This is equivalent to 27.5 metres per minute or 0.5 metres per second. If I have to achieve this, I need geared brushed motors.

Edit : A lot of argument/controversy, all over the net about scale speed and what I have written here. Will clarify and revert. Need to read up on the Froude Number Calculation to achieve true scale speed.

http://webpages.charter.net/sinkwich/sdventure/html/sd_scale_speed.htm

Anyway, here's just a loose assembly to see what she is beginning to look like.

Thanks Arun!

Pratheesh aka coolpratheesh is working on the electronics and audio effects generator for the boat. Thanks Buddy!

...  {:)}Congratulations VC partner to build your model with those resources and great creativity. A greeting. ........ Jorge. 

Jorge, muchas gracias muy bien!

After hours and hours of sanding, the hull was sent to the neighbourhood garage for a final coat of automotive putty and finishing. They've done a rather neat job.

Pratheesh - you will see that the bulkhead chambers are approximately 4" X 3.5". Hope this helps. If needed, I can remove the centre section of a bulkhead and give you more space.

Pratheesh thanks a lot for offering to help. I have already downloaded and merged/mixed a few sound files to create the possible battle scenario detailed below. Will use a 2" speaker with an efficient amp. The entire audio contraption will not weigh more than 150 grams (as suggested by you) and will be placed amidships.

I would like a combination of a diesel engine gunning up and revving as she starts sailing out. Over that sound, the Kriegsmarine Marsch instrumental music will play, as if it were being played over a PA system to boost crew morale as they head out to do battle.

A minute and a half later, when she is in the middle of the water body, a fog horn blast is heard, followed by another. As the second blast fades, a short machine gun burst is heard and is followed by distant return fire. While all this going on, the boat has picked up speed, klaxon starts hooting and then the Flakvierling starts firing and generally all hell breaks loose!  >

After a minute and a half, the battle sounds subside and the drone of the diesels can be heard, the boat turns to shore and approaches steadily - the sailors are singing the Kriegsmarine Marsch as they are jubilant after a successful battle.

The boat berths, engine revs lower and then finally cease.

Imagination runs wild. I wonder though if the sound effects are factually accurate. I wonder, did the Schnellboot have a Foghorn and/or Klaxon?

Regards.

Pratheesh has almost finished assembling the circuit. Here is my part of the game:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHMjVCuVdkg&feature=youtu.be

Hope you like it!

Dexterous effort is needed to accomplish this result Sir... Needless to say.. You have that 'Dexter' in you...

A great Example of Masochism...!!  (I remember Sir, you once used it) 

Please find enclosed herewith the type of 'Dexter' I was talking about..  (He is also a braniac)

I'm no Brainiac, I promise you. Just had a lot of fun creating this. Pratheesh is the one who has to do all the hard work to make it happen in reality.

Heil VC! 

Good fun. Now can we expect the next video to have a bloody battle 

Keep up the good stuff 

Hello VC,
Now that I throughly re-read your method of finishing planked hulls, specially the steps where you coat it with diluted fevicol & cover it with saw dust, followed by a thorough coat of diluted quick fix, I really look silly! I should have treated the my IJN MTBD in a similar fashion, especially since it too has a planked hull.
Instead over the weekend I coated it using NC automobile putty, and them rubbed it doen with 100 & 150 grit wet emery, the result was not anywhere near to your S-boot's hull. The IJN's hull is a mess!
I now want to get rid of the N.C putty(which would indeed be a challange) and start all over again with the saw dust and fevicol.
Any suggestions?
Regards
Nilanjan Paul

Oh God! How will you remove the N.C. Putty now? Short of breaking it up, there is no other way. I suggest you leave it alone and carry on with the build. Or else, you may want to do a bit of cheating - give it to a auto workshop and get a good body mechanic to do a professional job. That is what I did.

Regards.

Thanks VC,
Cheat I will them! no other option left, because I am not at all happy with the putty job, it has killed all the enthusiasm. Will take it to a nearby garage.
Regards
Nilanjan

I'm into boats. I always 2anted to build a s-100 or s-38. Now after watching these I got a real chance haha. Do you have any plan sheets of this one?

@saikibian,
This thread is 5 years old...
Regards

I saw but if he's online any day🤗