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« on: September 20, 2010, 07:12:17 PM »
ilango_slk
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Hi guys,

   I want to build a bait boat for surf fishing. Hope to get some guidance from experts here.. the boat I am planning to build will be similar to the "Aqua Cat" model (It need not look the same but has to do the job). This bait boat is not for carp fishing or for the lakes it is for the beach hence we have to look at a lot of other issues regarding stability... so let us leave out the design for the time being.... Let us see what I need in terms of motor, esc,battery, tx/rx etc..

 The boat will be have a place to hold the bait which may be a fish or a piece of it weighing not more than 250G and a fishing line attached to it and pull this line to about 300m  to 500M drop the bait and return. You can watch the Aqua Cat in action  here


Hope some one can guide me on the choice of equipments I need like what size of motor,esc,tx/rx,servo,props etc...

Regards
Ilango
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« Reply #1 on: September 20, 2010, 08:10:01 PM »
anwar
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Wow.. a whole another use of RC !  I have seen people making one time videos of fishing with RC stuff, but this is a whole another ROUTINE use of RC gear Thumbs Up

Looking forward to interesting discussions on stability etc.  It is amazing to see the boat getting tossed high in the waves, and getting pretty much submerged... all serious material and design challenges !
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« Reply #2 on: September 20, 2010, 09:00:53 PM »
ilango_slk
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Yes Anwar, the boat design will be the toughest part, we need the right buoyancy and CG to make sure it can with stand the rough waves. We also need a system that will make sure the boat gets back to its upright position asap after a topple.... it has be 100% water proof and the components must be protected from corrosion !!! too many things to look into but it will be fun to design and test Smiley I want to start with the simplest problem first and decide on the components needed to power this boat first....
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« Reply #3 on: September 21, 2010, 08:02:02 PM »
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I am surprised that none of the boat folks have responded here so far ! Head Scratching
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« Reply #4 on: September 22, 2010, 09:18:09 AM »
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May be due to the heavy rain everyone is out with their RC boats. Hope to see some response one their battery dies down !!! SmileySmiley
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« Reply #5 on: September 22, 2010, 09:51:15 AM »
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Hi
This boat is just awesome...Big design challenges.1) to ensure the boat does not turn upside down when hit by waves...I think this can be achieved by keeping the kneel relatively bigger and heavier.
2) Making the complete cabin watertight.

Prop: This boat will require more of torque than speed.hence you would need to use a 3 blade prop.
Better way to start off on this would be start off the size of 3 blade prop that is available. based on it you can then decide the length of the boat.
Let me see if I can get some plans for this.

Shreekant
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« Reply #6 on: September 22, 2010, 10:09:32 AM »
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Check this out as well

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1061170&highlight=aquacat
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« Reply #7 on: September 22, 2010, 09:08:52 PM »
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Thanks Rooster/Shreekant for your input. Nice to see R/C being used for something other than carp fishing.
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« Reply #8 on: September 22, 2010, 10:22:12 PM »
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The same performance can be achieved with a motorized sailboat without Main Sail & Jib. In the above bait boat C.G (about 1 ~ 1.5 kg weight fixed at the centre board)  is kept well below the hull and for extra safety a ball is attached above the deck. As mentioned by Sreekant a low rpm / high torque motor is enough to sail it.  Attaching a building log video of a sailboat. 
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« Reply #9 on: September 23, 2010, 10:19:07 AM »
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The same performance can be achieved with a motorized sailboat without Main Sail & Jib. In the above bait boat C.G (about 1 ~ 1.5 kg weight fixed at the centre board)  is kept well below the hull and for extra safety a ball is attached above the deck. As mentioned by Sreekant a low rpm / high torque motor is enough to sail it. 
This is exactly what I have in mind... can use all my old lead weights to provide extra weight and low CG. by any chance can I have a copy of the plans of your sail boat??? what wood did you use to make it?
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« Reply #10 on: September 23, 2010, 10:43:19 AM »
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It is a kit build Sailboat. I have to make photocopy the plan(blueprint), if you want to scratch build it , otherwise I can arrange a sailboat kit for you.
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« Reply #11 on: September 23, 2010, 11:20:39 AM »
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Hai.. Guys I am not into rc boats.. But i have an idea... can we over come the issue of boat turning over due to waves but baking the boat symmetrical vertically and horizontally??? ie it was ride on water on both sides.... is that possible?Huh?
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« Reply #12 on: September 23, 2010, 11:43:27 AM »
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Hai.. Guys I am not into rc boats.. But i have an idea... can we over come the issue of boat turning over due to waves but baking the boat symmetrical vertically and horizontally??? ie it was ride on water on both sides.... is that possible?Huh?
It is possible but it will look more like a submarine than a boat... to be more precise it will look like a tube with wings !!!
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« Reply #13 on: September 23, 2010, 11:51:37 AM »
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 Giggle
Thats true... But for an autonomous vehicle its the purpose that comes first.... It will solve the problem... No tension...  Grin
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« Reply #14 on: September 23, 2010, 12:56:43 PM »
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@Sreedhar, Turning over is just one part of the problem dear...

Can anyone suggest what I need to lookout for in terms of power/speed/model/brand etc. Looks like the boat will be around 3Kg in weight and will have to pull the fishing line to around 400Mtrs into the sea. Hmmm say 1/2KG of fishing line and a Max of 1/2Kg of bait+weight. It will be better if we can estimate for 5Kgs..
1. Motors
2. ESC
3. Servo
4. TX/RX

By the way I prefer ebay.com
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« Reply #15 on: September 23, 2010, 02:09:11 PM »
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What do you guys think of this motor??

http://cgi.ebay.com/Johnson-12-Volt-DC-Motor-RPM-16-000-12-VDC-550-Size-/130329080136?pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item1e5837f148
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« Reply #16 on: September 23, 2010, 02:16:51 PM »
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hmm i think brushless would be better if you want gud power.... try hobbyking.com....
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« Reply #17 on: September 23, 2010, 03:37:18 PM »
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(a) You need a watertight compartment for ESC, Servo battery etc.
(b) Marine ESC & Motor (watercooled) will be more suitable, but very expensive.
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« Reply #18 on: September 23, 2010, 03:47:21 PM »
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hmm i think brushless would be better if you want gud power.... try hobbyking.com....
There are a plenty of stuff there and Iam confused !!!! Can you guide me to a set of motor and esc at hobbyking??
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« Reply #19 on: September 23, 2010, 03:48:24 PM »
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(a) You need a watertight compartment for ESC, Servo battery etc.
(b) Marine ESC & Motor (watercooled) will be more suitable, but very expensive.
I saw the water cooled motor and esc but will it be ok with SALT WATER Huh?
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« Reply #20 on: September 23, 2010, 03:56:20 PM »
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I dont know about motor for boats... it would be better if our experts give an answer....
but most motors are for aircrafts i think...
but it would be better to use brushless thats for sure....
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« Reply #21 on: September 23, 2010, 04:00:22 PM »
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Considering the weight you want to push.. i guess a watercooled motor with lower KV and larger prop would be good....(correct me if i am wrong).....

Go for a gud high amp esc.. You dont want to burn of lower amp escs......
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« Reply #22 on: September 23, 2010, 04:12:42 PM »
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(a) I think speed / power is not a big issue
If the motor has high rpm - use small propeller vise versa.
but in this case marine motors & esc are more suitable as you are keeping everything inside a air/water tight compartment.

(b) Water cooling system of Marine ESC & Motors are made of copper tubes and water is only circulated around the casing to keep the temp. down. I don’t think major issue with salt/sea water. Motors & ESCs must kept dry after each sail.
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« Reply #23 on: September 23, 2010, 04:34:32 PM »
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but if we use larger prop on hign kv motor then there is chance of burning off the motor.....
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« Reply #24 on: September 23, 2010, 04:39:03 PM »
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http://cgi.ebay.com/RC-Fishing-Boat-Bait-Casting-Waterproof-Durable-/250698827065?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a5ed08539
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« Reply #25 on: September 23, 2010, 05:24:45 PM »
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Hi,
Dont be bogged down if the motor does not have water cooling. It is a fairly simple process to water cool motor and Esc.
First find the prop, as per standard design principles this should be done last. But since we do not have too many options of props... I suggest first select the prop then you can decide the motor and esc and then the size of the boat can be decided.

Shreekant
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« Reply #26 on: September 23, 2010, 06:19:46 PM »
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This brings up an interesting topic.  All the thrust and amps draw numbers for motors are based on operating with AIR as the medium, and it is obvious that when WATER is the medium, these numbers will not make sense.  The motor will have to do more work in water.  So is it common practice for people to just go with wattmeters, in order to decide what are the safe props to use etc ?
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« Reply #27 on: September 23, 2010, 10:53:19 PM »
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You must be very careful while dealing with (She/Sea/C- Language). Nobody ever understood any of these (Cs) completely. It is better to see all the Cs carefully before diving.

Let Ilango_slk start the build first, considering the consideration of weight & size, right kind of esc/ motor/ propeller can be selected very easily.

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« Reply #28 on: September 24, 2010, 10:40:26 AM »
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Hi,
I agree with Maharana, with boats., it is very difficult to calculate the prop size and then get the prop of the required dimension. It is apt that you start with the boat build . Any ways heres an ready made calculator for prop selection.
You need to feed the required parameters to get the appropriate prop dimensions.
http://www.rbbi.com/folders/prop/propcalc.htm

Also check out the Octura prop chart will give a lot of guidelines in prop selection.
http://www.funrcboats.com/prop_chart1.htm

Regards
Shreekant
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« Reply #29 on: September 25, 2010, 11:52:25 AM »
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I started looking for plans in the net and quickly found out that it is not going to be easy to find something that exactly matches my requirement!!! So started borrowing ideas from various models and developed my own for a single hull. This is just a prototype so I did some sketches and cut out the templates on a paper board (the board used for cartoons). so this is my first attempt of boat building...This template will be fine tuned when used for the actual boat..


B1_sketch.jpg
Re: Want to build a bait boat for surf fishing
* B1_sketch.jpg (21.57 KB, 640x480 - viewed 2153 times.)
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« Reply #30 on: September 25, 2010, 11:53:37 AM »
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Prototype on its way ....

B1_hull.jpg
Re: Want to build a bait boat for surf fishing
* B1_hull.jpg (12.93 KB, 400x239 - viewed 2368 times.)
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« Reply #31 on: September 25, 2010, 11:54:16 AM »
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Bottom..

B1_bottom.jpg
Re: Want to build a bait boat for surf fishing
* B1_bottom.jpg (11.28 KB, 400x260 - viewed 1925 times.)
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« Reply #32 on: September 25, 2010, 11:54:48 AM »
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Top..

B1_Top.jpg
Re: Want to build a bait boat for surf fishing
* B1_Top.jpg (13.04 KB, 400x300 - viewed 1961 times.)
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« Reply #33 on: September 25, 2010, 11:57:22 AM »
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Ok guys, before anyone starts trashing me let me explain that his is just a prototype to see if all the pieces work together. I have to make changes to keep this boat upright in the surf etc.,. Now that I have the template I will be able to work on wood or aluminum sheet .

Forgot to mention this prototype is 20" long and as I have the templates now I can scale to any size i want.
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« Reply #34 on: September 25, 2010, 08:47:32 PM »
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I have to make changes to keep this boat upright in the surf etc.,
Try to make the hull like this....

Bait boat.jpg
Re: Want to build a bait boat for surf fishing
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« Reply #35 on: September 25, 2010, 09:00:34 PM »
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Thanks for your input ANTA, the final version will be similar to that or else I will never be able to get my boat back from the surf. I want to make sure that I can make a boat first ... there will be a few more paperboard models before I start with wood or other materials. What do you think will be the best material ?? Thin Plywood, MDF , Cardboard (rough on one side and smooth on the other) , Aluminium sheets Huh? I also plan to do a fiberglass coat !!!

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« Reply #36 on: September 26, 2010, 11:34:39 AM »
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It is good to start up with cardboard prototype before getting on with the actual model.But I think scratch building a boat with a plan is advisable since it keeps out the worries of the dynamics of the boat.
My first scratch build had a weird problem as it moved ahead it dipped the nose down. I later realised that the transom was a little bigger.I do not intend to discourage you from scratch building your boat.. But changes to boat after built call in for too much of breaking.
Why dont you map your boat to some plans and then modify the plans a little to suit your requirement.

Shreekant

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« Reply #37 on: September 26, 2010, 12:17:26 PM »
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Shreekant, can you please check Reply 29 of this thread and see if the plan is ok??
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« Reply #38 on: September 27, 2010, 11:02:44 AM »
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Ok guys what is the best material for this type of job?? Balsa will not last long with the pounding of the waves.... any other suggestions ??

A rough idea of what Iam trying to replicate....

Aqua Cat Dinglehopper Turbo

Spec sheet
Dimensions: L 103cm, W 29cm, D 27cm (excl. antennae)
Weight: 14kg with batteries loaded
Radio System: 3 Channel 40MHz FM RC Set
Motor Transmission: Geared 1kw Brush-less Motor(fan cooled)
Speed Control: Electronic Speed Control
Battery Requirement: 2 X 9amp/hr 12v Lead Acid Gel Cells
Battery Operating Time:
- Power Propeller: 10min at full throttle, 12 – 14mins at 2/3 throttle
- Econo Prop: 14mins at full throttle , 15 – 20mins at 2/3 throttle
Maximum Distance:
- Power Prop: 1600m at full throttle (On one charge)1800m at 2/3 throttle
- Econo Prop: 1900m at full throttle (On one charge)2.2km at 2/3 throttle
Maximum Speed: 170m / min (Power Propeller)120m / min (Economy Propeller)
Battery Recharge Time: 2 – 10 hours (depending on battery condition)
Charging Requirements: 14.8v 2amp charger with automatic full charge turn-off
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« Reply #39 on: September 28, 2010, 04:58:06 PM »
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As mentioned in the above post, the Aqua Cat is using a single 1KW motor. Iam planning to use two smaller motors, what will be the best motor to use?? Any idea?
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« Reply #40 on: September 29, 2010, 12:45:15 AM »
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In the first video - I don’t think the weight of the boat is around 14 kgs (the way he was carrying it) something around 7~8 kgs utmost.  Now the specification sheet with 1 KW motor (unable to understand much of the information regarding Power Propeller / Econo propeller etc.) and now you want to alter it with dual propeller drive, but why?  Do you have a proper plan/sketch to do so ? 
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« Reply #41 on: September 29, 2010, 11:13:56 AM »
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Maharana, The video is for advertising and they naturally don't want to show that it is heavy... may be he was carrying without the batteries (two motorbike batteries can be heavy).

I was planning to change to two motors because I couldn't find much about the 1KW motor they were using Sad I thought two smaller motors may do the same job.

As far as the Power and Econo prop they must be having two different props that can be replaced as per the requirement....

I have still not got any input on what material to use to make the boat, I have a feeling that only FG will be strong enough to survive the surf...what do you think??
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« Reply #42 on: September 29, 2010, 09:21:53 PM »
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I have got some plans for you which can be helpful to build this project (expecting little modification to suit your need) & let me know your email Id. Regarding fiber glassing, Sreekant can guide you better.
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« Reply #43 on: September 29, 2010, 09:35:04 PM »
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what is the min. price of a beginner electric boat?
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« Reply #44 on: September 30, 2010, 05:40:07 AM »
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Dear Maharana,

       Check your PM please.

Regards
ilango
I have got some plans for you which can be helpful to build this project (expecting little modification to suit your need) & let me know your email Id. Regarding fiber glassing, Sreekant can guide you better.
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« Reply #45 on: September 30, 2010, 05:41:12 AM »
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Somewhere in the range of 50$ here in srilanka but very rare... why do you want to know??

what is the min. price of a beginner electric boat?
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« Reply #46 on: September 30, 2010, 11:16:29 AM »
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I have a 12V DC motor with high torque... used in  normal cars. It takes pretty low current I tried my best to stop the motor by trying to hold the shaft by hand and it was impossible!! Tried with some cloth and measured the current when it was pretty slow and it read around 6A. Do I need an ESC to control this motor? if so what do you suggest.. by the way the motor is brushed.
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« Reply #47 on: October 04, 2010, 04:57:54 PM »
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Hey ilango_slk
You can use the following speed calculation and prop selection. It also gives you a lot of other selection parameters
such as current draw and speed based on motor KV selection.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/conversion.htm

Shreekant
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« Reply #48 on: October 04, 2010, 05:28:00 PM »
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Dear Shreekant,

        Thanks for the link. Iam still confused... If  Iam using a 12V 7AH battery and want a run time of around 60Mins what is the Motor size & Speed I will need Huh?

Ilango
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« Reply #49 on: October 06, 2010, 11:57:22 AM »
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I have a 12V DC brushed motor that was running my radiator fan removed from my car. It has pretty good torque and when I tried to stop it the amp meter showed around 6Amps. Will this ESC be ok for it

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160423930492&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Any suggestion for the Servo Huh?

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« Reply #50 on: January 14, 2012, 01:00:30 AM »
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hi justwana know how far u got wth ur surfboatas i also wana build 1would apreciate som info thanks
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« Reply #51 on: January 14, 2012, 09:27:30 AM »
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« Reply #52 on: January 14, 2012, 10:52:19 AM »
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Good morning respected Modelers..Sanjay Sir, i miised this thread..and was looking in to posts..and wonder that , how serious are to make a simple surf bait boat..!! Ilango,as you Mentioned as you in Sri Lanka, i hope you may find many auto rikshaws, that we found in India, and nowadays the company Piaggio, is delivering these machines all over the world. to make a bait boat one of the sucessful wiper motor that i used from last 8 years is from an "APE" autorikshaw, works well and drops only less than about 3 to 4 amps at full load..here is the photos of motor of my new big TUG..

MOTOR-1.jpg
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« Reply #53 on: January 14, 2012, 11:08:26 AM »
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after removing all brush assy, cut out the flange with hack saw, or with angle cutter..and drill a hole on the shaft, by apropriate twist drill bit, while holding the motor on a bench vise..use a spirit level with driller, to get a straight drill..bore..

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« Reply #54 on: January 14, 2012, 11:13:38 AM »
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you can also use wiper motor from Bajaj rear enginned auto, or can take a motor from wind shield winder of a car..all works well, as all they are multipoled, and heavily brushed..such motors are designed to work for years without any malfunctions..anf it is very easy to rewind up to our specifications, as the armature is very big compared to tiny motors or an ECM.i was using these motors on my big crafts, in to 3, 4 and 5 feet crafts, with one, or two, as tugs and barge models..it can haul a person easy, through river with a three inch hand made prop.

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« Reply #55 on: January 14, 2012, 11:21:50 AM »
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we can drill a hole, through the motors shaft, as it goes over 8 mm..and can fix the drive shaft, easily with a pin by cross drilling..here showing my set up for the havy tug..using a bicycle spoke..but if you are usiing in a salt water source, can purchase Stain less Steel rods from hardware shops, used to make the handles of a Samover, ( tea kettle), in various thickness..a 3 feet long 4 mm shaft costs here as 60 Rupees.and can make BSF thread from a thread tap, or from alathe..simply..can buy aproprate nuts to fix the propeller..

the prop: we do not need to wander for a prop..we can make a prop from brass sheet, SS sheet, or simply from an aluminum sheet..a two, flat blade with less pitch for high speeds, and three narrow, or round blades with steeper pitch for lower RPM, but greater torque..it will take about 10 minutes to make a pro for ourselves..and works well..and can adjust the pitch of the prop up to our needs..

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« Reply #56 on: January 14, 2012, 11:30:34 AM »
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it is not nessesary to use a ECM, on high torque boats, as most of the ECM s are designed for Aero modeling..will blows off if current exceeds a little higher limits..and one of the great feature of wiper motors are designed to take the load of the wiper arm, for hours in a vehicle..and it never heats up even at full load..so it is not nessesary to cool it down externally..and it is also designed with self lubricating bushes, as bearings provides years of trouble free service..and even then, if you want to cool the motor, go for an easy option with copper tubes..that you can see here..

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« Reply #57 on: January 14, 2012, 11:39:51 AM »
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we can purchase copper tubes in to 4, 6, 8 mm from the dealers who deals the materials for A/C and refrigeration.its easy to bend, never rusts, weighs less..and reliable..we can wrap around the tubing over any motor, and plese never frorget to apply the heat sink compound all over the tubes on motors as you see in photograph..this heat sink compound can buy from any Electronic shops, costs Rs 10/ for a tube.can fix a simple water scoop, just in front of the propeller, to pump in water..so, when the RPM of the prop increases the water is also pumped up in , in greater quantity..with the wiper motor set up, you do not need to use any reduction, gears because those motors are designed as multi polar, series.the torque even at 6 volts is great..

Electronics: when we decide to make a Subamarine, or an exposed craft, to water, we must need a WTC, means a water Tight Chamber..to keep all electronics intact..while thinking , we google it in internet, and will see many complicated layouts made by many sophisticated companies, and shocks..it is not possible to make our own..so we asks for the price..and even more shocking..why..? and what for..?
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« Reply #58 on: January 14, 2012, 11:44:36 AM »
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Fantastic. Roopesh - you are THE MAN!  Hats Off Hats Off
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« Reply #59 on: January 14, 2012, 11:49:11 AM »
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we do not need any complicated WTC s from abroad..are we Indians are fools..? never..only need some good interest and dedication..i started making submarine from 1998, and still making one at present in to 1.6 meters..from my first to this never used any extra ordinary stuffs, except a gas tube from a soda maker..for recovery..works excellently..and when we thinks about a WTC we scratches our head..and once i was engaged in a sub programme, in my State, and was discussing with a craft man, who is a tin sheet metal worker, and after hearing the basic idea, he shouts at me.." ella changaayii,njee enganaa eintaathu bellam kaaraandu nokkua..? inikku piranthaa..? " (" hey friend, how did you keep water out of this machine..? possible..? are you mad..?) is that tough to make a WTC..? never..from that moment, i turned to make its hull from foam board..and worked even more nicely..and reinforced with idustrial cyano glue..stiffer than steel..but lighter than steel..

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« Reply #60 on: January 14, 2012, 11:58:25 AM »
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How do you manage speed control with the Wiper Motor?
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« Reply #61 on: January 14, 2012, 12:00:02 PM »
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Good morning Sanjay sir..its very easy to make a Bait bot for sea.. Thumbs Up

the WTC: i will give you a simple idea to make a WTC, is proven, in my crafts for years..buy acylic sheets, in to 5 mm, for big crafts, and 4 mm for tiny crafts, in to a 2 feet X 2feet size..buy a piece of Stainless steel dowel, in to 8mm, in to 4 inch length, and with Stain less steel rod, in to 4mm, and 12 inches long, go to a lathe, and drill a hole through the dowel,in to 4mm..slice the dowel in to three equal size..collect an SS tube in to 8mm, andload one of the drilled piece in to tube..then collect some iol seals, that found in starter motors, or aquarium pumps, and load the seal in between the dowel pieces..it will acts as the water seal..two is far enough, but three will gives even more safety..you can also use the high quality washers from NCVs, (Needle Control Valves) used in high pressure LPG gas tables, to control the flow of gas to the burners..it will be less expensive and lasts longer..after assembly, fix it all with two part fast epoxy putty..
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« Reply #62 on: January 14, 2012, 12:08:38 PM »
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Sir..explaining..
now the prop shaft assy is ready..drive in the SS rod in to the bearing assy..and make sure a free running..while the washers or seals must grab the shaft..if found erratic smooth the rod from lathe..can slo use high density brass rods..but never MS or metal..will rust out..
now measure the size of the motor..and spread all electronics on a table that you are going to use including the batteries..place it in a trial and error method, and find a good arrangemet..and measure the total size of the equipments, including the motor, while, motor facing in to one side, towrds propeller..and make a clear measurement, while leaving 4mm gap, all around at least, for a box. please keep the box as rectangular..make the box with acrylic sheet that we aquired earlier..glue all sides with apropriate industrial glue, leaving one side open..(TOP)..and drill a hole, to take the drive shaft out, and fix the motor inside with rubberblocks, that can be easily buy from auto mobile shops..in various sizes..and shapes..fix the motor with industrial rubber based glue, as it can gives us a flexible movement, while grabbing the motor with violent force..
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« Reply #63 on: January 14, 2012, 12:18:07 PM »
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fix all brackets with SS nuts and bolts..please avoid to use long bolts than needed as it will become a disturbance in layout later..fix the pro shaft holder in drilled hole about the motor, and seal it with industrial epoxy glue..reinforce it with gazzets made of SS or Brass sheets..make one or two, partitions within the box, while looking for the margins for all needed things..thus we can place motor in a chamber, electronics in a chamber, and yes battery in an other chamber, but all within one box..make a lid from same sheet, and add a lipping all over the side, that correctly fits inside the box. margin of this lipping is 1 inch enough..and make sure its tight..remove the top..fill gigh density silicon in to all corners and joints of the box, to prevent any leakage..reinstall all electronics and motor..can wrap the receiver with plastic bag, to avoid any mal functions..seal all gaps of servos with silicon as a precaution..before fixing lid, make a hole in  battery side, and fix a 4 mm HD silicon tube, in to 15 cms length at least, can keep open while re charging the batteries..this prevents any gas set up inside the WTC..can close it with apropriate plastic caps later in action..
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« Reply #64 on: January 14, 2012, 12:22:49 PM »
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make a second hole, to take all nessesary wire to out, for switching, and lighting..use only HD copper wires..now make sure eveything is working..while all systems in on, check out the throttle and reverse control for nice working..and yes sero actions..make sure all servo drive are water tight with seals..apply a little silicon all over the lid and seal it..wait for 20 minutes..or you can add screws, while attatching the bicycle valve tube all around the cap lipping for future maintenace..now WTC is ready..
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« Reply #65 on: January 14, 2012, 12:37:18 PM »
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i cant add the photographs of completed WTC s here as i was making all three submarines for Naval Academy, and it is not permitted to photograph and publish..but i am making one submarine for my crative modeling and will add all photographs and videos here..

the ESC and BEC...Friends..its very easy to make an ESC along with BEC..we always looks in to commercially available items, but even those stuffs are designed and finished with some electronics components that available in our local market..!! if you examine one costly ESC from any company, you will find that the all components are easily avalable in free form..for an example, if you examin the BEC ( Battery eliminator Circuit), on a expensive ESC, you will find it is based on 7805 low drop voltage regulators..!!.is 12 Rs each..so, you can make a BEC for you easily..and can also make an ESC, within 20 minutes, with a 555 IC, or with any pulse expander, with a simple H bridge circuits using MOSFETS, in to P and N channel, in FFD and REV..such ESCs can haul up 60 amps with only three of device..make sure the wires is capable to carry enough current..
see here that a commercialy available expensive ESC is using the same 7805 low drop regulator..

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« Reply #66 on: January 14, 2012, 12:41:45 PM »
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and its maximun capacity is less than 2 amps..as each device is designed to haul within 1 amps load..so in parellel it can pull less than 2..and this unit is expensive than 1200 Rs..
here my hand made BEC, is capable of hauling 8 amps with ease..cost..within 100 Rs..working..?  excellent..proven..for years..with same device.. but boosted up with a power device to increase the current handling...

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« Reply #67 on: January 14, 2012, 12:49:30 PM »
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you can make ESC s even more easier way..each and every speed controlers are based on pulse expanders..you can make a simple pulse expander with a simple circuit using a 555 ic, and with a MOSFET..this arrangement is feasible, for rough applications..and as it do not directly connected to any radio system, no fear of mal function is needed..

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« Reply #68 on: January 14, 2012, 12:54:28 PM »
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this ESC can haul up to 30 amps in ease..but you can see the wires are too thin, but in HD, though it is not feasible to load with high amps..still it is good with loads up to 20 amps, as most of the motor loads will be withis 10 amps max, over that the motor will blows off.. a second one is even more powerful, and the next one is capable of BEC, with reverse..for brushed motors..it can haul a motor up to CRST, 1200..with ease..
you can see the wires to receiver as BEC..is 5 volts..4 amps..

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« Reply #69 on: January 14, 2012, 01:00:38 PM »
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Battery: we do not use a heavy battery, untill we are looking for a very long session with our crafts..usually a sealed zero maint: SLA (Sealed Lead Acid Battery) is enough..we can purchase it all from 1.2 amps to 9 amps..in 6 and 12 volts..for a bait boat two 12 Volts 1.2 Amps SLA battery is enough for a two hours operation..we do not need any LiPoly batteries, and never consider Li Poly battries are as ultimate..we are liable to use LiPoly batteries in aermodeling because of its light weight..

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« Reply #70 on: January 14, 2012, 01:08:10 PM »
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Very interesting. No easier/simpler way for speed control?
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« Reply #71 on: January 14, 2012, 01:12:05 PM »
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HULL: i was making bait boats from my child hood..and it became even more serious as i learned more electronics, and reached even more intense , that i could get transistors, from markets, instead of valves, and the availability of rechargeable batteries..as i could make Rx,Tx as my own.. but i stopped using bait boats later, because of two things..i always get, fishes like "EAATTA" ,"KAYCHAL", and "MUSHU"..from sea, as all thse fishes are ugly in nature, and with a raw tasting flesh..baee..bad..and alwas meet with "MALAN", "IRUMEEN" from river..also with nasty taste..so, after catching i always sold it to natives..another great head ache was stranding of the line on rocks..at sea its not a serious issue..but at river..it will..

a good shape of hull for a bait bot, especially for sea, from my experience, is a flat bodied, with a deepest v, with a keel extract to 1to 1.5 feed depth..with weight..a good stable with standing plat form was my last bait boat, was in to 3 feet long, 1.3 feed wide, with a very deep sharp "V", in to 8 inches, and the extractor in to 1.5 feet down, with weights attached..the weights were attained from melting old led accumulators, used in cars..it did well..and because of the leverage of the extraxtor, the craft always satand upright..and it was powered by a wiper motor worked perfectly..

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« Reply #72 on: January 14, 2012, 01:19:04 PM »
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sure Sanjay sir..we can use many micro switches to control the speed by using resitors..but loss will happen in the form of heat..above shown ESC and BEC are very easy to make, within an hour..all with handy components..and works well..we do not need any complicated elecronic devices here..we can also use a heating element from a soldering iron..still will loss..or you can make a very simple ESC from an old scraped servo..works well..

above hull is intended for my new floating light house, with a tall tower , is basically a hull of a bait boat..you can see a flange protuding from the hull at bottom, is actually attatchment of a long extractor arm, to fix the weight..this will keep her upright and sturdy, all the while..she will be also equpped with a short wave radio, altimeter, and a radio beacon, guided from shore, to stand in one place..a weight will attatch to the extractor arm, from an old led block..
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« Reply #73 on: January 14, 2012, 01:26:17 PM »
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design of the hull can be in to X bow, so the wave will split in front of the hull instead of disturbing it..and if you make both ends of hull in to X bow, it will be even more stabler..like a scow..top side of the hull can be slanted in to 45 degree, and water will deflected off..super structure can made from acrylik sheets, need a tiny one, and can screw it wth same bicycle valve tube as sealing..

the very best material to make a bait boat is without doubt..the Thermocol..(Expanded polysterene)..takes all thuds..torques..splashes..and in my native fishermen sare making boats from thermocol blocks wrapped in a net..is known as "PONGU"..they even travels further inside the sea..and my own experience shows the best material is..sure thermocol..very light..when seasoned..stiffer than balsa..or wood..very versatile..never sink..and shape it with NC putty..and if you are looking for even more stiffness..use PU putty...
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« Reply #74 on: January 14, 2012, 01:33:36 PM »
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Friends..Colleagues..Modellers..Respected Seniors..all above postings are from my real experience..and never consider as a boasting..or as an advice..consider it all as a request, yes, all you must make crafts your own..
Ilango..your posting inspired me a lots to make a new bait boat..will start one by today..and after finishing i am ready to give it to you..you are welcome to my place..my home is situated 200 meters from the sea..and 300 meters from river...any how thanks for the inspiration..once again..because to me the bait boat was a forgotten thing...
have a nice crafts to you all... Drool Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
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« Reply #75 on: January 14, 2012, 01:38:59 PM »
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forgot to say one more thing..please use a Mhz based radio syatem in your sea based crafts, as in surface, there must be some absorption of signals by salt water..i have some bad experiences of using 2.4 Ghz, in salt water especially in to long range..have a nice craft.. Thumbs Up
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« Reply #76 on: January 14, 2012, 01:41:08 PM »
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And thank you, Master Boat Builder  Bow Bow
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« Reply #77 on: January 14, 2012, 01:41:33 PM »
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one more thing..you need not to use a IC to make a speed controller..but can use a mere power transistor, as a spped controller, by altering its base bias..with a potentio meter, controlled by a micro servo.. cool...
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« Reply #78 on: January 14, 2012, 01:44:24 PM »
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sure..sanjay Sir..and never forget to ask any help from my side in to boat making..and loging out..because time to start to make a bait boat..HEYYYAAA........... Giggle
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« Reply #79 on: January 15, 2012, 11:31:34 PM »
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hi roopeshkrishna would u consider makin me a bait boat,if so u can email me at rasheedismail@webmail.co.za.  pls bear in mind tht i want to use it in the sea which have lots of waves many thanks
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« Reply #80 on: January 16, 2012, 08:25:51 PM »
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Cob..sure..but need a little time..because currently, i am working 8 of my new crafts..and yes new bait boat..waiting to dry up..then will make one for you..if so, you must give me two standard servos, along with one micro servo, to alter it, for deploying the bait.. Thumbs Up
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« Reply #81 on: April 28, 2020, 02:54:47 AM »
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Hello guys ,did you'll manage to build our own  Aquacat Dinglehopper?
I m just in love with this Bait boat.
Do we have a copy in India?
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« Reply #82 on: May 28, 2020, 02:34:27 PM »
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