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« Reply #50 on: July 13, 2012, 06:34:22 AM »
rcpilotacro
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Quote from: VC on July 12, 2012, 07:46:17 PM
Aye Aye Cap'n! Now do you think I should give the 900Kv a shot?
absolutely, with a matching prop, she will fly well, rolling take off and off you go, can do some real cool slow approach and landing. 
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« Reply #51 on: July 13, 2012, 08:45:29 AM »
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Quote from: sundaram on July 12, 2012, 01:56:00 PM
Your avispad is going to be a slow flyer.
Just for knowledge.
Sir how you decide whether it will be a slow flyer or fast one ?
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« Reply #52 on: July 13, 2012, 09:37:20 AM »
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Practice, and only Practice will make you perfect
Lift, Thrust and Drag, drag comprises of Zero Lift Drag (mainly governed by total wetted area) and Lift Dependent drag (High Lift aerofoil, swept back aerofoil, high angle of attack) High Lift (High camber, low speed required to support the weight)

For more explanation read Basic AD thread
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« Reply #53 on: July 13, 2012, 09:52:18 AM »
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Thanks all. Build progressing rather slowly for the last few days. Will update soon.
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« Reply #54 on: July 16, 2012, 09:48:37 PM »
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Where should the landing gear be placed? How many millimeters from the nose? How close to the CG is ideal? Does it make a big difference?
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« Reply #55 on: July 16, 2012, 11:13:30 PM »
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This power plant would be the ideal for yours with 10x6 prop on 3 S.

http://www.rcindia.org/for-sale/for-sale-turnigy-d28369-950kv-brushless-outrunner-motor/msg109213/#new

If tail drager I would say, under carriage at 1/3 the distance of CG from nose ahead of CG.
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« Reply #56 on: July 16, 2012, 11:33:42 PM »
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Undercarriage position noted.

Motor is too expensive since I already have a lot of choices to experiment with. Further the seller is asking for Rs.1400/- for a Rs.684/- product (instead of trying to merely recover his money, as explained in his post -"Bought it for a friend and now he does not needs one.. shucks"  Wink )  and the reviews are not too hot anyway. Will let this one pass.
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« Reply #57 on: July 17, 2012, 08:48:38 AM »
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Information sharing improves knowledge of both.
VC, Check aeroworks.
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« Reply #58 on: July 17, 2012, 02:29:06 PM »
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VC, there is a smaller version of this bird called the avipark. Your earlier mentioned motor seems well suited for it just in case Wink
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« Reply #59 on: July 18, 2012, 11:41:34 AM »
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Undercarriage assembly. Bicycle spokes through coro flutes. Wheel struts reinforced with a carbon fibre spar embedded in coro.
a.jpg
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« Reply #60 on: July 18, 2012, 11:54:55 AM »
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The build process. The centre coro spar has a CF rod embedded in it and the entire thing is hot glued in place. I think I will remove the hot glue from  one side of the joint and strengthen it with epoxy.
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« Reply #61 on: July 18, 2012, 11:55:54 AM »
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VC
you will need a anti rotation bend which will go into the fuse, parallel to Normal axis. See image
anti rotation bend.jpg
Re: Avispad Build Log
* anti rotation bend.jpg (22.44 KB, 650x488 - viewed 348 times.)
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« Reply #62 on: July 18, 2012, 12:01:10 PM »
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Thanks. Anti rotation bend has been done. Uploading in a while.
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« Reply #63 on: July 18, 2012, 12:03:59 PM »
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Schematic showing the Anti Rotation Bend.
x.jpg
Re: Avispad Build Log
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« Reply #64 on: July 18, 2012, 12:10:17 PM »
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Wow! VC your build looks very nice  Clap Another method for the cycle spoke kind of LG is to have two pieces of it through the coro to both ends but joined at both sides in a "V" (or "Y") shape. This has proven quite good even for a full size SPAD Deb for me.
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« Reply #65 on: July 18, 2012, 12:12:30 PM »
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Thanks Sam. Any pics?
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« Reply #66 on: July 18, 2012, 12:13:57 PM »
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Let me try to draw one for you.
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« Reply #67 on: July 18, 2012, 12:16:24 PM »
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Was wondering how to give her a tail wheel, when my daughter came up with a good suggestion of modifying a Coke bottle cap. Will give it a try, though I am still looking for a wheel cannibalised from a broken toy car.
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« Reply #68 on: July 18, 2012, 12:34:05 PM »
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Pl see the picture for LG.
Landing Gear with Plywood and Kevlar Former.jpg
Re: Avispad Build Log
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« Reply #69 on: July 18, 2012, 12:35:17 PM »
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VC, forgive me for the crappy drawing I just made Sad . But hope that will give you an idea to consider in your future projects. If you tie a piece of rubber band in between them, it gives you an effective shock absorbing system too ( I recommend this as this adds strength too)
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« Reply #70 on: July 18, 2012, 12:37:07 PM »
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Mjet, thats an excellent way too if the iron rod wont bent. I devised this way as the one I had was a bit soft.
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« Reply #71 on: July 18, 2012, 12:38:43 PM »
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Thanks will definitely try this on future builds.

Mjet, that spoke is definitely thicker than what I am using. Where does one get Kevlar from?
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« Reply #72 on: July 18, 2012, 02:19:02 PM »
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Quote from: VC on July 18, 2012, 12:38:43 PM
Where does one get Kevlar from?

Thin muslin, denatured alcohol, Epoxy, you got yourself a bullet proof materiel

here is one
Carbon Fiber and Kevlar-29 Cloth (180g/m2) 1mtr
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« Reply #73 on: July 18, 2012, 03:58:57 PM »
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Sir looking beautiful

Quote from: VC on July 18, 2012, 12:16:24 PM
Was wondering how to give her a tail wheel


Sir u can have this idea. If he suits you. here is the link
http://www.rcindia.org/tools-materials-and-building-techniques/tail-wheel-an-easy-build/

manoj
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« Reply #74 on: July 18, 2012, 04:28:22 PM »
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I use a triangular piece of lite ply epoxied under the tail section. Before its epoxied, I will have a piece of high temper wire (usually use HK control rod piece) for mounting the tail wheel and its steerable. Later I found out that HK has a similar thing  

For smaller models like the avi, you could pass the rod straight up the rudder hinge line and epoxy into the first flute. Never had a problem.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8004
TW.jpg
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