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« Reply #50 on: January 01, 2020, 05:17:30 AM »
sanjayrai55
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Don't wake a Tiger until you've factored the teeth



Happy New Year and Happy Landings all
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« Reply #51 on: January 03, 2020, 09:37:40 PM »
K K Iyer
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Humidity was over 90% last two days.
As soon as it went below 70, added some talc and thinner to the dope, and did the fin, stab, elevator and flaps.
Decided to hinge before tissue cover.
Top hinge line. On the elevators used the 27micron doculam below and in the V.
Top hinge far thicker doculam.

Then got a doubt. What if the thick doculam is too stiff? Will it crack? Etc.
So on the flaps/ailerons used the fine doculam on both sides.
As insurance, added 4 of 2x2mm hinges of the thick doculam per wing.

So far so good.
Till I came back from walking the dog, and stepped on the top cowl that was lying on the floor.
I’ve CA’d it together. Will make another if needed.

6F33221E-FFB5-4BCE-AD59-F1EA269640C4.jpg
Re: Build log. Mercury Marvin, CL to Electric/RC
* 6F33221E-FFB5-4BCE-AD59-F1EA269640C4.jpg (73.25 KB, 800x642 - viewed 733 times.)
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« Reply #52 on: January 08, 2020, 09:52:57 PM »
K K Iyer
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Bad news yesterday, I’m afraid.
Applied green tissue to turtledeck.
First, it bled.
Then when it was dry, it just peeled off!
And left a stain.

I fear I may have to resort to paint or Monokote, something I wanted to avoid.

E3DFACCA-6473-4F38-A01D-0A140ED2B3F0.jpg
Re: Build log. Mercury Marvin, CL to Electric/RC
* E3DFACCA-6473-4F38-A01D-0A140ED2B3F0.jpg (50.52 KB, 800x497 - viewed 321 times.)
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« Reply #53 on: January 08, 2020, 09:55:33 PM »
K K Iyer
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But it wasn’t the tissues fault, it was mine.
Looks like the dope coat was too thin, and the thinner too copious.
Maybe the dope got dissolved and thin enough to be completely absorbed by the (wet) tissue, which then on drying just peeled right off like an onion skin!

Tried again. Thick coat of dope, thinned just enough to keep the brush from sticking to the wood, and tissue applied DRY. Then brushed through with absolutely minimum thinner.

Seems to have worked.

BEF6BE2D-D129-4BFD-BA05-5B45AF44A2EE.jpg
Re: Build log. Mercury Marvin, CL to Electric/RC
* BEF6BE2D-D129-4BFD-BA05-5B45AF44A2EE.jpg (66.62 KB, 800x600 - viewed 292 times.)
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« Reply #54 on: January 08, 2020, 09:57:19 PM »
K K Iyer
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@saikat sir,
Where are you?
Eagerly await your advice.
Regards
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« Reply #55 on: January 09, 2020, 05:30:26 AM »
sanjayrai55
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I had some degree of success adding Universal Stainer to the "Dope"  (actually NC Clear lacquer)

It sagged initially, but after some days was fully taut

20130525_180410.jpg
Re: Build log. Mercury Marvin, CL to Electric/RC
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« Reply #56 on: January 09, 2020, 12:25:27 PM »
K K Iyer
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Sirji, never knew that you do stick and tissue models too!
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« Reply #57 on: January 09, 2020, 12:28:57 PM »
sanjayrai55
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Don't wake a Tiger until you've factored the teeth



I started my aeromodelling life with several Bobnis!

These are Guillows kits
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« Reply #58 on: January 09, 2020, 05:06:43 PM »
Arvindkharebpl
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where you find Dope
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« Reply #59 on: January 09, 2020, 05:19:51 PM »
sanjayrai55
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Don't wake a Tiger until you've factored the teeth



where you find Dope


"  "Dope"  (actually NC Clear lacquer) "  Use Duco with Duco thinner
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« Reply #60 on: January 09, 2020, 07:30:24 PM »
K K Iyer
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where you find Dope

Auto paint shops.
Try to get Duco, as suggested by Rai saheb.

If not possible, you can get dope (ask for NC Clear) loose from auto paint shops / auto painters.

Got some a few years ago, Rs 60 for 200ml in a new tin. Used a bit for my Pilatus Porter, Druine Turbulent and Iambus. But when I opened it now, the tin had rusted, turning the dope a dark brown.

So this time I took a glass jar and got 200ml. For Rs 50!

Thinner is available from hardware shops in 500ml plastic bottles.
Cost me Rs 80 last time. But this stuff absorbs water from the air. When I tried it now, it turned the dope milky. So I got a new bottle. Rs 51 this time!

But why do you need dope? Are you planning to build old style stick and tissue models?
If so, welcome to the small group of people still using dope. Do post your build log.

BTW, are you in Bhopal? Have we met? Sorry if I’ve forgotten.
Some flyers from Bhopal often come with Tanmay to the Creative Flyers RC Airfield in Indore.
Are you one of them?



16818181-1843-4220-885F-B63AB4DEB250.jpg
Re: Build log. Mercury Marvin, CL to Electric/RC
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« Reply #61 on: January 11, 2020, 06:04:19 PM »
Arvindkharebpl
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Sorry sir .We never met . those people expert flyer, i am an aeromodeller and still learning flying .Also i stick with my Bhopal now try to find new air field .our every field occupied international cricket players, car learner , and above all kite flyer (patang baj). whenever i will come to indore i will meet you.
with regards.
Arvind khare 
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« Reply #62 on: January 19, 2020, 10:36:05 PM »
K K Iyer
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Nearly done. Only control horns and pushrods pending.

Had lot of problems with the tissue/dope finish.
Found out what was wrong.
The thinner was making the dope blush. It wasn’t the humidity. It was the thinner itself.
Went to the auto paint shop from where I got the NC Clear Lacquer (dope)
Showed them the (industrial) thinner I used, and how it turned the dope milky.
The guy there dipped his finger in my thinner, sniffed it, and said this is a chemical. Called Methanol!
That just blew me away.

He sold me another 250ml of dope, 500ml of auto quality thinner, and a 1” brush.
For Rs 130 total.
The new stuff is just fine. Even if it couldn’t erase all earlier blemishes.

Moral: Don’t use industrial thinner. Duco available on the net for about 250/litre.

6582E2EF-6C6F-4DDD-936D-A811F457248E.jpg
Re: Build log. Mercury Marvin, CL to Electric/RC
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« Reply #63 on: January 20, 2020, 06:00:29 AM »
sanjayrai55
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Don't wake a Tiger until you've factored the teeth



That's a fine covering job!  Clap
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« Reply #64 on: January 21, 2020, 04:19:13 PM »
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Looking Real Good now. All that experiments (dope, tissue, etc) all paying off clearly. Awaiting your maiden video
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« Reply #65 on: January 22, 2020, 10:51:51 AM »
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Can't take my eyes off it. Superb sir.
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