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« on: May 21, 2012, 03:48:43 PM »
alokhovercraft
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Hello Members,
                    I am going to show how to make a very cheap prop adapter to fit a GWS 4025 prop...

Take a 2mm bicycle spoke nipple,

Select a drill bit acc. to your motor shaft size(for a tight fit I selected 2.2mm bit for 2.305mm motor shaft),

Drill it exactly half down its axis,

Check proper fitting by test fitting it by hammering with a light tool like a plier/screwdriver or any other tool that is available...

Once fitting satisfactorily, place it inside prop bore according to your choice of side,

Put a drop of C.A. Glue(FeviKwik or any other equivalent) taking care not to drop C.A. inside the nipple,

Fit the prop on the motor and test...


Photo1916.jpg
Make simple prop adapter in minutes...
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« Reply #1 on: May 21, 2012, 03:58:21 PM »
alokhovercraft
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Heres the motor with which I got best performance...a 25000 RPM 12 volt Johnson Motor.....Kindly let me know any other motor which works well with this prop...

Tachometer reads 16000 RPM+ at 12 volts and motor draws 2 amps...

Pic showing Tachometer laser beam focussed on reflective tape on Prop...

Photo1922.jpg
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« Reply #2 on: May 21, 2012, 04:03:07 PM »
roopeshkrishna
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thank you Alok..  Hats Off
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« Reply #3 on: May 21, 2012, 04:06:40 PM »
alokhovercraft
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I got inspired from you sir!! this was my accidental discovery...I am thinking of making a rubber powered coro plane by screwing the 2mm spoke to the modded prop adapter with 4025 prop...I will be happy if you could show how as I am new to planes
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« Reply #4 on: May 21, 2012, 04:11:27 PM »
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 THANKS Clap
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« Reply #5 on: May 21, 2012, 04:12:03 PM »
roopeshkrishna
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Alok, its easy to make rubber powered one.. no mess.. and try to fix a micro motor from CD drive with multiple strand winding, along with a micro LiPoly battery.. will be fun.. and exciting.. with same prop.. anyway thanks for the idea.. its cool and effective..  Hats Off
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« Reply #6 on: May 21, 2012, 04:20:12 PM »
roopeshkrishna
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this kind of set up with CD drive motor will gives us even more fun and excitement over rubber powered one.. !! Hats Off

alternate-of-rubber-power1.jpg
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« Reply #7 on: May 21, 2012, 05:54:51 PM »
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what is the prop size and prop hole size in the photo??
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« Reply #8 on: May 21, 2012, 06:04:14 PM »
roopeshkrishna
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Alok, its a GWS EP 5030 prop.. the gap between motor shaft and prop is eliminated by a simple metal shim with nurling.. done by tiny coping saw.. and glued.. works fine..  Thumbs Up
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« Reply #9 on: May 21, 2012, 07:08:25 PM »
alokhovercraft
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Is it any commonly used metal shim i.e. piece of copper tubing or anything else?
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« Reply #10 on: May 21, 2012, 08:41:48 PM »
roopeshkrishna
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no..simple.. custom made.. Thumbs Up
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« Reply #11 on: May 21, 2012, 08:53:20 PM »
roopeshkrishna
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but from now, use your idea.. Thumbs Up
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« Reply #12 on: May 21, 2012, 08:58:24 PM »
alokhovercraft
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Sure Roopesh sir! I shared one idea as i never thought would strike me... many more ideas will follow!!
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« Reply #13 on: May 21, 2012, 09:07:14 PM »
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nice work roopesh:) Smiley Smiley
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« Reply #14 on: May 21, 2012, 09:20:20 PM »
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 Salute
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« Reply #15 on: April 19, 2013, 10:06:45 PM »
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Last month I didn't have a prop for the DT700 in my Phoenix Magic. Looked through my old stuff and found a Zinger 10x5 (wood). Its hole was too large. Solution?

Add heat shrink tube to the shaft and shrink it. Add more till it matches the bore in the prop. No need for hardware.
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