In to the Holidays with 'Ugly Stick'.

This is my first Balsa build. Today Officially started the work

Plans

Started with the wing, cutting ribs...
Today managed to cut 8 ribs

This is what i was telling you ! build yourself and fly it ,its a best way to learn !
any help you are always welcome! All the best !

Thanks praveen

Good pics will be following thread
Regards,
Aman.

thanks aman

update

....

Good going Aniket.

very clean cuts.

 

 

Main wing, Sheeting and servo tray installation left.
Length- 1400mm

Building fuselage

Used 3mm Balsa

length- 1100mm  

Thought of using,

Motor- Turnigy D3548/4 1100KV
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18233__Turnigy_D3548_4_1100KV_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html

ESC- HobbyKing Red Brick 70A ESC
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18010__HobbyKing_Red_Brick_70A_ESC.html

LIPO- Turnigy 3300mAh 4S 30C Lipo Pack
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9501__Turnigy_3300mAh_4S_30C_Lipo_Pack.html

Prop- 12*6

Any other setups..?
Comments and suggestion are welcomed

Aniket, I have been following this build with interest.

I think the motor you have referenced is overpowered; it will be a battery guzzler and you would need 4000 mAH of LiPo capacity for a 10 minute flight (read 450-500 grams or so) on 3S; less on 4S

What are your model specs? Type of model (Sport, Trainer, Aerobatic, 3D) Span, expected or designed AUW? Without this info it is not possible to figure out a suitable motor/prop combo.

BTW a 3536 - 1400 motor is equivalent to a 20 Nitro

A 3542-1200 is equivalent to a 25

@Rai Sir- Its a Trainer.
             Wing span- 1400mm
             fuse length- 1100mm
 
 expecting approximately 2kg AUW.

Is the motor ok now...?

I'll get back to you tmrrw. 2 kg is a lot for a model of this size

The details is here for the plan & rest discussion.
http://www.eurekaaircraft.com/plan_kits/uglystick60.htm
And if it is an electric model, HK donky 3007 will be fine with a 30-50A ESC and 2200mAH 25-30C battery with 920gm thrust.
I will prefer 10x4.7 SF prop with 50A red brick ESC with the battery above for a fine tuned power system.

Good luck.

Thanks kalyan sir

I really would suggest you consider glow for this model. A .20~.25 would be dandy with a 9*6 prop

Hi aniket ...how will you cover those wings...coro or covering sheets...??

Hi EricOliver,.....Red covering film

@Rai Sir- Any reason to go with glow?.... ...why not electric?

I think because you dont hav to run every time to charge your batteries ....on nitro just refuel and fly

Beyond a certain size & weight, electric becomes expensive, and very heavy. It is here that the optimum solution lies in nitro.

Of course, you have to consider many other factors, like a suitable field for Nitro.

You could try this motor with a 10*6 prop, and a 2200 mAh if you keep the AUW up to 1.4 Kg

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18227__Turnigy_D3536_6_1250KV_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html

with glow, you can just fill the fuel and ready to fly again almost instantly. So more flying in field.
There are several other factors.
The most facinating of the glow engine than electric, to me, is the sound.
And if you have no glow, your aeromodeling is incomplete...

@KALYANPRODHAN and sanjayrai-   but considering the flying field i will go for electric.

Update
Wing sheeting complete. I am happy with the results

Some more....

Update. building vertical stabilizer

horizontal stabilizer...

completed wing..

some more.....

Great build...

 

Hello Aniket
Please tell where did you get the balsa you've used in your build.

Hello Aniket
Your build is really very nice. Please tell where did you get the balsa you've used in your build...
 

Sorry for posting twice. My internet connection crashed..

Great build Aniket!! 

 

What about Landing Gear?

Thanks Maahin and Rai sir

@utkarsh- bought it from rcbazzar

@aniket1955,
Hope you won't mind some suggestions.
1. Starboard wing top D tube sheeting has a joint between bay 1 and 2. This is a strict no-no. The wing depends on the D tube for its folding strength. The sheet should be continuous from centre to tip. As it will be impossible to change the sheeting now, please put a thin fibreglass patch on the top sheeting say 1 inch to both sides of rib no.2. (Before covering)
2. Centre bays bottom sheeting grain is chordwise. Will it provide any strength against bending?  It should be spanwise.
3. Also saw a patch in the centre section sheeting. Pl avoid such patches. The sheeting is not just to cover the holes, its meant to provide stiffness against bending and torsional load. Joints defeat this purpose.

Hope you find this useful for your next build. Meanwhile best of luck. Dont forget the fibreglass patch!

Edit: Just in case you have not come across the term D tube, look at the cross section of the wing. The top and bottom sheeting, along with the spars and webbing form a D shaped tube that is surprisingly strong. And what is webbing? The vertical grain sheet pieces fitted between the spars in each bay between adjacent ribs. Pl excuse if you already know all this stuff. Only trying to help.

It's looking very heavy hope it has proper motor to fly

Thanks for the information Iyer sir. Thats useful for my next builds.

I have not seen Das Ugly Stick kit in RCB. I do see the "Stick" with a normal (not round) Vertical Stab and non-crennelated 'rons

sir not kit, only balsa sheets

Your plans call for a 45-60 Glow Engine. What motor do you plan to use? Have you scaled this down?

Before any comment or recommendation on the L/G, first finalise on your AUW and powerplant/prop