RC India

Hi to everyone as you know from the topic heading this thread shall consist of illustrated build guide to building your moss glider from RCFORALL. The Guide shall begin hopefully on Monday as i have ordered it today and sai uncle said that it might reach tomorrow or on Monday. Also this thread shall have many many pics a video's tooooo. So Stay Tuned. After a Few hours of flight i will also put in Mods in the moss glider. all those too will have pics and videos too. Until then my wait for the courier man continues.

this will be a very nice thing. if you have some other step by step procedure then please put it too  {:)}

from now on every plane i buy i will put up step-by-step build and fly guide and also a review of it

bad news guys i will receive it on Monday only as yesterday sai uncle could not  ship it. But will try to start the guide on Monday anyhow

Dear Pickles,
have you taken Mr.Sai's permission to post the build guide?Because Mr.MOSS was designed by him and he is also selling it as a kit. If you post a step by step guide to build Mr.Moss , because all the parts are locally available and are so inexpensive anybody can build it at a cost which would be far far less than what it would cost if it was purchased as a kit from Mr.Sai. This would affect the sales of the kit. If I were you I would first convey my intention to Mr.Sai and ask his permission.
best wishes

Rao.

well thank you for asking rao uncle as i forgot to mention that i have already taken permission from sai uncle in the first post 8-) 8-) 8-)

Great. I am eagerly awaiting for the guide.

cool  {:)}

Mr Rao ,
I have no issues with  any one writing about my planes or products  any which way. My idea is to promote the hobby  at least possible expense  to a beginner not restrict it and by the way the major price is anyway the cost of the set up . I remember paying close  to Rs 25-30 K when I started including a 4 channel futaba sky sport  and then being worried of  the balsa plane breaking every time it went up , that is what motivated me to build Mr Moss at  1/4th the price  where the only part likely to break is the Prop  .
Selling the model per say is not my priority and as Mr Rao has said if you can make the MOSS glider cheaper than my price and start at a lower price level than my selling prices I have no problems with that  as well .

Mr Rao I would be more than happy if you could highlight here your costing of Mr MOSS with locally available material so that I could also possibly learn of new ways to lower my cost, please don't quote something like buying 1 motor from hobby city , some other part from tower hobbies etc  and paying no custom duty as the option as that is something not feasible  for us who operate a business , we cannot avoid customs duty and local taxes like VAT etc.
I am serious I will be very very interested to know how I can lower the price with locally available material
Sai

thank you sai uncle for posting here. i appreciate it a lot.
thanks  :) :) {:)} {:)} {:)} {:)} {:)} {:)}

Hi Anwar ,
This thread has  given me an  idea can I upload the assembly instructions for Mr MOSS of the site some where  where any one interested can access it and down load it .
It a word file with pictures .
rgds
sai

i am already posting the build instruction in detail but what better than the details from the creator so please give it to me and i will put in the first thread of my build guide here and for a place where everyone can view and download it i can make a website on it in Google sites and you can put in all the instructions on it and also in the kit send them the link to that website and i will also publish any new mods or upgrades in the design i will also put in a suggestions page and of course we will publicize it in where ever possible.i will also put in a copy of my illustrated guide in it too.

So please give me the doc file and i will post it in my first post of the guide and we will simultaneously a start a website

wait a second how could possible the price of moss go lower

the motor combo costs you 1300 with esc motor and prop
the servo cost you 750 one for rudder and one for aileron
the battery costs you 605 for 2s 850 mah
the charger costs 925 with wall adapter
and miscellaneous other things like push rods glue and tape too are included that would be another 100

the total is 3680 now sai uncle sells it at 3750 that means sai uncle charges you 70 rupees for Fiber Glass Fuselage + Coroplast Wings and tail assembly which i am more than happy to pay. now he has included ten percent more discount so i don't know how could it possibly go lower if still it can be i will be very keen to know that

WOW!!
I too think Mr. sai's products are very resonably priced !!
happy flying ,
sahevaan  ;D ;D ;D

Also, frankly any one who gets their hands on a plan is capable of building their own version of the aircraft. Which may well be much cheaper than what available at a online shop. Its very important for us folks who buy and build/assemble kits to post our experience in making these model planes. Who knows each builder may innovate something new in their build.

So, pickle - don't pickle your idea to post a build thread - post it so more ppl know about this plane and how easy/difficult it is to build and fly. Come on, else there would be zero build threads on RC groups.

Send me the file, I will make sure it is uploaded.  Word is not a universal format, I will convert it to PDF and attach it to one of your posts.

Dear Mr.Sai,
I made a mistake and accept my apologies . I had not noticed that Li-Po battery and Li-Po battery charger with SMPS adapter for the charger are also included in the kit and that is why I thought the kit is over priced. Now all things considered it is almost as if you are giving the Mr.Moss Glider air frame for free. {:)}

Also could you supply the model kit in a slightly different configuration to the one described in the product information and details page in your e.bay / rcforall web page for Mr.MOSS GLIDER.

I am sending you a P.M regarding the configuration I want  and I am hoping that you could supply it.
Regards

Rao.

hey guys shipment has reached mumbai but unfortunately they will deliver it only tomorrow

hey guys i could not wait for it being delivered tomorrow. soo i asked my driver uncle to bring it for me from andheri ;D ;D (:|~ (:|~. quite far from my place. i could not go as i am completing my assignment so that i could spend tomorrow with the build. will get it by today night as soon as dad returns from office. (:|~ (:|~ (:|~ (:|~

hey guys received the moss
i am posting the pics in a few minutes as uploading them please don't worry if it takes time to load i am putting many pics

now guys starting of the guide
before that i would like to show you the packaging and the material supplied by sai uncle in his kit
lets start with the packaging part
one word superb as i took 17 minutes to open up every single seal (time recorded)
so here are some pics of the packaging

(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/packaging/310520091391.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/packaging/310520091392.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/packaging/310520091394.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/packaging/310520091395.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/packaging/310520091397.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/packaging/310520091400.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/packaging/310520091405.jpg)


sorry guys next time i will resize pics

next the following posts with pics will be about the stuff inside the box

first up additional parts

these include glue (Cyno - 555m), Push rods, Battery holders, Gold Connectors with heat shrink tubing and control horns and rods and screws and motor mounts and many other things have a look

(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/ad%20parts/glue.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/ad%20parts/pushrods.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/ad%20parts/batterystraps.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/ad%20parts/bulletconnectors.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/ad%20parts/connectors.jpg)

Hi Subu ,
I hope you have not thrown away the  foam that covered the kit  in packing ?
It is Indian EPP you can make an EPP plane with it  ;D
sai

next up are the electronics
they consist of the 1 amp charger adapter, 2s and 3s charger, 2s 7.4V 850mah battery, ESC, extension wire for esc, motor, prop, servo's, and a 4ch Tx and Rx  (courtesy pramod bhaiya thanks i appreciate it)

pics comping up

(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/electronics/adapter.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/electronics/charger.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/electronics/Battery220414.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/electronics/ESC.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/electronics/extension.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/electronics/motor.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/electronics/Prop.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/electronics/Servos.jpg)
actually a spring has broken so i did the surgery inside and outside too
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/electronics/lanyutx.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/electronics/4chrx.jpg)

not at all sai uncle i have a bunch of it preserved please can you send me the instructions manual for my post thanks

please dont leave i have the last set of pics coming up in a moment

well sai uncle i never thought that that was epp foam anyway finally the pics everyone had been waiting for the plane

enjoy the pics people

(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/plane/310520091424.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/plane/310520091425.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/plane/310520091426.jpg)

and how could i forget the fiberglass fuse boom

(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/plane/310520091416.jpg)

so there you have it people that what i received stay tuned tomorrow and the following day i will be completing my guide thanks for staying tuned

sai uncle i u are online please mail me the instruction manual if you don't have it now please send it first thing in the morning

Hey Subu ;D  :P  :P

Nice work dude, great pictures. I am excited for you dude, can't wait for your grand build thread.  :P

 ;D

You are truly doing a great job, keep up the spirit and dedication.

The next thing we would like to see is you flying mr.moss.

All the best !  :)

Cheers

Atul G.  :)

thanks atul bhaiya for suggesting and i will also be doing a crash test ;D ;D ;D to check its durability

hey guys just finished the grand build everything went on smoothly. One place i was stuck to use the servo push rods connectors provided in the kit but i chose the z bend method as beginners would get to know about it. first before starting here is sai uncles guide

http://sites.google.com/site/f22raptorrc/moss/ASSEMBLYINSTRUCTIONSMRMOSS.doc?attredirects=0 (http://sites.google.com/site/f22raptorrc/moss/ASSEMBLYINSTRUCTIONSMRMOSS.doc?attredirects=0)

stay tuned guys uploading pics might take time

hey guys
the first section of the build i will show you how to complete the wing with the polyhydral and the placement of the carbon rods

so let me begin

first locate these parts
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/wing/010620091427.jpg)
second
locate these smaller bent ones
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/wing/010620091428.jpg)
third open the glue and keep it ready
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/wing/010620091430.jpg)
from the top hole in the main wing the wing is made out of  coroplast so take 12 lines below the upper hole in the main wing
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/wing/010620091444.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/wing/010620091438.jpg)
put some glue on on of the bent rods and push it in the 12th hole
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/wing/010620091432.jpg)
then from the hole at the bottom 8 lines up is the second place where you need to insert the rod
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/wing/010620091429.jpg)
now that you have both bent rods in push in the piece of polyhydral provided (the small yellow squares shown in the first pic)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/wing/010620091433.jpg)
then apply some fibre tape to make it stiff on both sides
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/wing/010620091434.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/wing/010620091435.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/wing/010620091436.jpg)
now repeat the same steps on the other side  to obtain
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/wing/010620091523.jpg)
next step carbon rod placement in the next post

sorry forgot to tell you cut out the tape joining the main win and polyhydral to the point where the first rod from the front appears otherwise the main wing panel wont bend

(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/wing/010620091449.jpg)

next post will take time though every thing is ready coz i need one hour to complete my assignment sorry but by five i think i will have the whole thing up.

I noticed in the Photo that you have pushed the  wing too short along the cord in the center  spread it out a bit if so .
rgds
sai

oh actually in this photo it looks that way actually i have checked that thank you sai uncle

hey guys please tell me any changes that i should incorporate in the next posts and also do you feel it is helpful thank you

hey guys i am back this time i shall show you how to install the carbon  rod in the main wing panel.
Sai uncle suggested that you just use glue to stick it to the bottom of the wing. by my ides is to make a incision as long as the carbon tube along the main wing panel and insert it into the slot and glue it and a layer of fibre tape to keep it secure. So lets begin

marking the centre of the carbon rod and marking two dots at the edge of the carbon rod endings. tha carbon rod is placed 21 lines above the bottom hole in the main wing
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/wing/010620091444.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/wing/010620091445.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/wing/010620091446.jpg)

next step is cut the gap between the two marks which we made and insert the carbon rod in the incision. before that drop some glue to hold it in place. then cover it up with a layer of fibre tape

(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/wing/010620091447.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/moss/wing/010620091448.jpg)

hey guys next section will have about fifty photos so please don't worry if it loads slowly and it consists of installing rudder, elevator, control horns, push rods, servos. also might be that it might take me a lot more time as i am uploading all these pics

hey guys just finished resizing the images so your internet connection does not suffer. the reduction in size reduced the mb's by 12mb's. ohno just a few seconds before the electricity has gone so i need to switch off will post the rest by 6.30pm. please do see next part is soo interesting

Still there are many images which are similar, and images that are not in good focus. 

I would recommend that you use something like http://webresizer.com to bring the sizes down to reasonable levels, otherwise people on slower connections may wait for a long time for the page to load.

hey pickle ,
i have just been wondering , arent the flutes of the wing supposed to be parallel to the fuse??
because thats how i made my SPAD... ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ???

The wing that you have made is folded with a spar inside. It needs to have the flutes in parallel with the fuse. A flat plate wing like the one for the Moss will be floppy if the flutes are parallel with the fuse. Hence the way it is.

Hi Pickle,
from the photos it seems as if you are mounting the battery, receiver,ESC and other electronics  to the bottom of the fuselage channel instead of mounting them on the top of the fuselage channel. If you continue like this your first flight would be your last flight because all these components would be destroyed on your very first landing because the model has no landing gear . All the on board gear should be mounted on top of the fuselage channel so that they would be out of harms way when you do belly landings.Please pay attention to the building instructions and build according to the assembly instructions. Don't be hasty and build  taking your time and checking and double checking and build true and straight.
best wishes
Rao.

Hi Guys ,
There are 2 types of Wings this is the uncambered wing and the aerofoiled wing  .
In an aerofoiled wing the  flutes are in the direction of the fuse . mainly because in the case of this wing you have a flat plates below and use the tension of the plastic to  achieve shape 
In the case if this type of wing the flutes are perpendicular to the fuse .

Several MOSS's have flown  over  a couple of hundred sorties with this wing and the wing has not folded or collapsed because the  way  the fuse is inserted and the coro stuck to the fuse  provides the tension and retains shape .

Not all spads have the same construction type , in fact this type of construction will help you to add aileron's to the plane easily  ;D

Sai

Hi Subu ,
Mr Rao is 100 % right in his observation please ensure every  part including the servos are mounted on top of the fuse in a horizontal position.
My advice is also dont hurry because you have to post the build on the net take time and understand consequences of your actions.
sai

Hi Mr. Sai,
want to know the dimensions of the coro sheets used in making the main wing, horizontal and vertical stabilizer, and what is the mm of coro used in this ?

thanks for suggesting. for everybody's information i have mounted other than rx everything on the upper side actually the battery clips were loose as i wanted to change the battery it tipped downwards. in the final posts of the build you shall see everything the way it has to be. that photo was just taken to show the polyhydral. and should the rx too be mounted up that other than that every thing is mounted on the upper side sorry for the wrong pic i just meant to show the polyhydral. Well anwar bhaiya i will increase focus as my digicam arrived and i will reduce the size a bit more. thank you all for tuning into the thread

please note the size of the images combined is 1.5 mb so should not take much time)

ok guys the next step is mounting the elevator, rudder, control horns, push rods and servo's. (please note i have used z bends because i did not see that sai uncle had provided push rod connectors  {:)} {:)})

first step is to mark the center of the elevator which must be 9 centimeters from the edge. now place the mark on the center on the fuse stick and draw around the stick
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091451.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091452.jpg)
next step is to place your servo(install the servo arm for correct measurement) on the fuse stick. i recommend keeping them 15 cm behind the bottom edge of the wing as the cg is just about right. i tried it also keep the elevator in the same position also mark around the place where you kept the servo.
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091454.jpg)
now put a scale under the servo arm and mark the point on the elevator where the scale touches it look at the pic for info
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091455.jpg) 
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091456.jpg)
this place is where you put your control horn
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091458.jpg)
now take a blade and make a incision such that the control horn can fit into it
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091459.jpg)
now insert the control horn in the hole
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091461.jpg)
notice in the image below you see the remaining part of the control horn emerging out
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091462.jpg)
here you need to push in the control horns clip
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091463.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091465.jpg)
applying a bit of anabond will secure it tightly
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091466.jpg)
next step is to stick the elevator to the fuse stick
apply some glue on the elevator and stick it under the fuse stich the place where we marked it
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091468.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091469.jpg)
finished the elevator
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091470.jpg)
now on to the rudder use the same scale trick and insert control horn and stick it on the right side of the fuselage stick. don't forget to mark the servo's position it should be placed after the mark of the elevator servo. mark its position too
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091471.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091472.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091474.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091475.jpg)
control horn with clip installed
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091478.jpg)
now as we marked in the elevator add the glue to the marked area in the rudder
and stick it to the right side of the fuse stick
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091479.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091480.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091481.jpg)

next step is to add the servo to the tail. be sure to add the servo arm but don't screw it on first center it then screw it on now there are two ways of doing it either you use the straps provided by sai uncle or use anabond. i am using anabond because the straps are being used for battery.

so if you are using anabond method test place the servos on their marked positions then remove them first take elevator servo put a little drop of anabond in the position and place it and hold for a minute and then apply a bit of anabond to the sides
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091482.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091484.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091485.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091486.jpg)

next step is installation of push rods not much difficult if you use the push rod connector method but i used the z-bend method.

first of all the supplied push rods are cycle spokes i used a wire which has all abilities of cycle spokes but lighter. you can use the connector provided if so skip the z bend step

(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091487.jpg)

First step is to keep the wire between the servo arm and control horn
and mark the point in the wire where it touches the control horn
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091495.jpg)
then take 6 cm extra and mark a point cut the wire or the cycle spokes at that point. for cycle spokes cutting is not necessary as the might be only that long. so mark a point to bend.
next step is to create a z bend
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091491.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091492.jpg)
then insert it into the servo arm.
next step is to mark bend the end point of the wire just a single bend and insert it into the elevator control arm. if the elevator appears to be a bit up or down don't worry just trim it out before flying or bring back or forward the bend .
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091493.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091496.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091497.jpg)

do the same steps for the rudder

(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091501.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091503.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091506.jpg)

and you are done.

(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091508.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/servo/010620091509.jpg)

though the wire appears to be bent it works fabulously using cycle spokes with connectors is recommended. sorry that i did not use that method

the next few steps are smaller that consists of soldering the gold bullet connectors and applying heat shrink tubing to the esc and motor wires, then soldering the deans battery connectors (not in the kit) on to the esc. and mounting motor battery and esc. until then i suggest you to watch these video's so that you can complete the soldering part.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B9yY9Kk4bEA

you need to buy the deans connector

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZU9rtACdZY&feature=related

Subu ,
For additional safety I would recommend you ZIP Tag the servos to the fuse stick.

sai

The Z bends you made are not good.They are done very poorly and they let the pushrod move side to side at the servo end Z bend. Replace them with the supplied pushrods and connectors.
Rao.

In addition to zip ties double sided foam tape is also desirable as it dampens shock and vibrations and protects servo.
Rao

Hi Subu,

Superb dude, very nice of you to include the videos  {:)}

Can we buy the dean's connector and the heat shrinking tubing from a local electronics shop ? Rather is it easily available ?

Kindly Advice..

Superb work Subu..  {:)}  {:)}

thanks you rao uncle for your valuable opinion to stop the z bend problem from happening i have used a bit of hot glue which can be easily removed when needed and about the zip ties i will buy more of them and use them thanks. anyway i will replace the pushrods before the first flight.

you can get deans plugs from sai uncle or from sunil uncle (Indian hobbies) in pune and heat shrink tubing too otherwise ask sai uncle. Well i did say that the given push rods were recommended but the ones i have used work very good rao uncle. the problem is that i did not make a proper z bend that's it. other wise it works just like cycle spokes.

Sorry ,I think I have missed out the JST connectors as they are the ones on the battery.
I will send them tomorrow .
sai

oh thanks a lot sai uncle for sending them

Please send the part to me as well if you have not included that in my package.. thanks

Dear Pickle,
It is not advisable to have Z bends at both ends of a push rod. You should have a connector at one end at least which allows adjustment of push rod while trimming the plane and setting control throws.
If you are using Z bend at the control horn end of a push rod use Screw Lock push rod connectors installed on servo horns.
If you are using Z bend at the servo arm end of the push rod use an adjustable screw on clevis at the control horn end of the push rod. Or you could also install a screw lock push rod connector on the control horn
The important thing is that you should be able to finely adjust the push rod length.
Good Luck
---Rao

I second Rao's opininon on the push rods... I am sorry to say that it is poorly done. The Z bend should be crisp and short. The bend you made has room for a lot of wobble.. further I see that there the push rod itself bows. It may work perfectly but if you fly on a windy day you will notice flutter. Once the flutter sets in it gets amplified little by little until you lose total control of the model...  I have been a victim of flutter once. After that I take special care for the control rods and make them tight and strong.

Believe me, in SPADs you will have flutter.. If you don't have flutter then either you have a good control rod.. OR.. you are not flying hard.. ;)

Oh. BTW.. there is nothing wrong in having Z bends at both the ends of the push rod... For fine tuning you need to have a "V" or a "trapizoidal" bend in between the ends of the push rod. If for some reason you need to adjust the length you need to open up or squeeze the "V" bend a little.

thank you for all the suggestions now i will replace them and post pics later
well my school reopens today wish me luck guys
and by the way skip the deans soldering video you don't need it anymore

You are correct Mr.Izmail. One can use the V bend method with Z bends at both ends. I had completely forgotten about this tip because I never used it even though it is one of the earlier methods. But I hate Z bends because it is difficult to make them perfectly on thicker rods like cycle spokes without a Z-bend making tool. However it is easy to do on smaller diameter push rods like piano wires etc where Z bends are the only option available because rod end connectors are not easily/usually available for such small diameter wires.
Regards
Rao.

Good morning all,

How are you doing today , i got my mr.moss yesterday with an upgraded motor and a 1000mah frm mr.sai.

I succesffully glued the wings and soldered the gold connectors and all that.. for pics please go here

http://www.rcindia.org/electric-planes/mr-moss-glider-official-build-manual/msg1975/?topicseen#msg1975

The best way to put in the z-bends what i can make out is put in the servos first and then take the appropriate measurement and cut the spokes if required and bend them, but unfortunately the given spokes would not go in the control horns provided.

can anyone suggest me what to do abt this or any alternative. Thanks

good day !

atul g.

Atul ,
I have mentioned here don't glue the wing till the end.
It is very easy to get the CG by sliding the wing along the fuse till the plane balances or slightly nose heavy after test fitting all parts.

I use spokes with  servo horn connectors  OR make the hole slightly wider  to suit the dia.

Aero Modeling is about using your imagination and arriving at solutions , it is not ness. that all solutions have to be the same.

Don't get scared to experiment , it is essential for improvement . If someone had not experimented with CORO we would not have SPAD or MR MOSS in the first place

As per me Aero Modeling  is not only flying, building is as important ( if not more important  ) than flying.

Sai

   {:)}  {:)}  {:)}  {:)} Fantastically said Mr. Sai. I totally agree with you. Till date i have made 4 planes of my own without any plans, Just imagination, and out of 4, 3 flew very well. one flew but OK OK sort, all are now lying in my hanger (above the almirah - LOL)

Atul,

As everyone said keep experimenting without comprimising on the structural integrity. For sticking in the spoke into the servo arm - just have a small peice of the spoke in the drilling machine (like a drill bit) and slowly enlarge the hole in the arm. This would make a perfect fit for the cycle spoke and there wont be any play in the linkage.

For the z - bend you can do it without heating the spoke. You just need to have a good pointed nose pliers. But if you find heating the spoke is comfortable then its fine. Just be careful with it.

-Ismail

Hello all,

thanks for going through my post.. mr. sai i hv not glued the main wing to the stick & yes i will make sure i get the correct cg by sliding the wing... :) Izmile thanks man u are the king of spads and a real inspiration to all newbees.. I will make sure i try the suggested techniques..

Yup i will try to make the holes bigger keeping in mind that i dont mess with the horns.. Oh yes i totally agree this hobby is all about imagination and making things right..

Thank god i met you wonderful people, atleast for once i am heading the right way ;D  ;D..

Will keep you guys posted about mr.moss... ;D am totally addicted to spads now..hehehe.. {:)}

sorry guys for no posts. this strange thing happened to my internet connection. each and every other website other than rcindia was opened. and by the i have finished mounting each and every thing hope to complete the guide in two days. if internet works.

We had a server move yesterday, and it was supposed to be fairly transparent to users.  If you had an extended outage, that would be because your ISP is not correctly honoring TTL timeouts on DNS changes (if you don't know what that meant, just google it  ;)  )

thank you anwar bhaiya for clarification

hey guys please wait for 5 mins i am uploading pics

moving on to the next step guys
please note that i am assuming that you have soldered the bullet connectors and jst or deans plugs to the esc.
(http://www.shakysticks.co.uk/ehelistore/images/gold_connectors.gif)
(http://i1.lelong.com.my/UserImages/Items/0805/25/chanfh@13.jpg)
(http://www.wsdeans.com/products/plugs/ULTRA-PLUG2.jpg)
Sai uncle- i have not received the jst pins yet.
so what did i do. i took to an old y connector cut out the adapter , removed the signal wire soldered the black and red to that of esc and the two pin connector of esc plugs into the y adapter socket easily and tightly. until my jst connectors arrive i am using these only.

so the next step is to mount the motor mount.
again two ways of doing it

either you drill it or apply a layer of anabond inside and outside
i chose the anabond method coz i did not have drilling machine at home.
trust me using anabond make it rock hard and a layer of fibre tape is the best combo
anyway drilling is preferred. but would have been nice to see the holes pre drilled but sai uncle cannot to anything as the fuse stick is from GWS. anyway lets begin with anabond method basically what you have to do is to place the mount on the stick mark out the outlines apply anabond and place the mount on it and hold for 30 seconds. then start applying anabond to the sides to give it extra strength. a layer of fibre tape on top of that is just the icing on the cake.
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/finale/010620091510.jpg)
sorry i have only i pics of this.

next step is not to mount the motor but to mount the battery. first place the battery on the fuse stick and loosely tie a zip tie.
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/finale/010620091516.jpg)
next start to tighten it to a point where the the battery is tight but can be remove with a bit of force for charging use two of zip ties for this purpose
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/finale/050620091579.jpg)
now cut out the extra bit left
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/finale/050620091580.jpg)

now for the last part mounting the motor and esc. i recommend you mounting the motor first then connect the esc.
note 2204 bl motor cannot be mounted with screws so please use the following method.

first insert a zip tie through the hole between the x mount on the motor.
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/finale/040620091568.jpg)
now do that for all four sides for me i could insert only one zip tie as there was no room in the other places so i used the anabond very very very very little so that i could remove the motor. using acetone will help in faster removal.
anyway here the motor mounted
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/finale/050620091569.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/finale/050620091571.jpg)
now connect esc and stick it behind the battery with some fibre tape or use zip ties. adjust battery accordingly. also connect the extension on the esc
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/finale/050620091579.jpg)

now only two more steps are left mounting the prop and plugging it all in to the receiver.
so in a few minutes i will post how to do that too.
coz i forgot too take the picture of the receiver.

anyway my finished moss with cable management
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/finale/050620091576.jpg)
sorry also i am replacing the push rods after the picture shoot. so will post pics later

also for ones using the push rod connector here's a pic to help you
(http://www.gws.com.tw/images/product/gwphd001-1.jpg)

sorry sai uncle i took it from your website if it is not allowed please tell me i will remove it right away

one more thing i just forgot to mention tomorrow i am going to maiden my moss will have the video surely. wish me luck

Congrats Subu , You got everything right at the right places .

Where are you getting the CG ?

sai

just a second sai uncle let me measure it out

i am getting it at 7 inches from the tip as it is slightly nose heavy as i wanted it to be, i can slide the wing a bit more to have it balanced

No issues with being a bit nose heavy .
Do what you are comfortable with , I keep it just balanced a bit forward say around 2-3 degs forward.
This  way it can glide longer with nil / minimum throttle.

Sai

sorry as there was a power cut. anyways superb idea sai uncle will do that. thanks

hey guys the final part this is the part where i show you cable management, Rx connections and prop mounting.

first up prop mounting

place the prop on the shaft of the motor and extend the given two rubber bands across the two black screws passing over the prop.
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/rx%20prop/050620091592.jpg) 
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/rx%20prop/050620091593.jpg)

now for the Rx connections. this is the most widely used setup that is
rudder on channel 1
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/rx%20prop/050620091587.jpg)
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/rx%20prop/050620091588.jpg)
elevator on channel 2
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/rx%20prop/050620091589.jpg)
throttle on channel 3
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/rx%20prop/050620091590.jpg)


after that you first need to power up the Tx and then connect the esc to the battery
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/rx%20prop/050620091591.jpg)

you might have deans connector

now finally for the cable management

bring the servo wires from under the fuselage and keep sticking tape to help it stay there
(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/rx%20prop/050620091585.jpg)

now for the esc first connect it to the Rx. bring the wires from under the wing. and after connecting coil them and stick them with some tape

(http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu71/Pikle6/rx%20prop/050620091583.jpg)


that's it guys i did it i finished the guide next post will be a video of the whole planes view and ground testing the servo and motor and hopefully tomorrow i will have the flight video.

cant wait (:|~ (:|~ (:|~

sorry guys i cannot get the antenna's pics i will tell you how to stick it though . take it back to the elevator sticking it continuously after gaps and finally stick it to the elevator surface not the part that bends the part which we stuck on to the fuse stick 

tomorrows game plan is that pramod bhaiya will take off first as he is a very very very very experienced pilot and then i will take the charge as i am still learning to fly better. anyways after his flight we will analyze if any problems occur then i will move on with my flight. on the first try i will be filming any ideas on how should i record it so that everyone likes it

hey guys also please tell me if you need a docx file i would make it by tomorrow and post it here. please let me know. i want to share it with as many people as possible

well if you want i can convert it into a pdf format as anwar bhaiya said that it is the universal format.

please suggest about the filming techniques as i am flying tomorrow and shooting a video too.

by the way this is the 2000 th post in rcindia hoooooorayyyyyyyyy ;D ;D ;) ;)

sorry guys could not put the video rcindia was not opening. i tried on MTNL, BSNL, Airtel and also Reliance internet connections also atul bhaiya was not able to open it for some time yesterday. will have the video in 15 minutes

uploading video in 10 minutes yesterday my MTNL server was down please wait

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzgqmianU_s

hey guys watch after ten minutes it is processing

its processed now you can watch it

hey guys the video is on the sixth page of this thread :)

Hi Subu ,
One way to reduce the sensitivity would be to push the CG a bit further behind  by changing battery and  position.
Take it to around 35 %  of fuse length and try it .
It is nice to know there was no damage to the plane post  a couple of crashes , this is the  best part .
I remember when Venkat was learning we nearly gave up aero modeling as there was time when we would have a crash every week end , we were dependent on some expert to rebuild the crashed balsa plane , tune the engine  and  supply us fuel.

Crashing is a part of learning  and even the best RC pilot has crashed  quite few times before getting to the Intermediate flying level but one issue this plane eliminates  to a large extent is the need to rebuild and  the tension of flying with a feeling that the next moment  could be the last for the plane .

BTW I never had a problem with Zip tagging ,I just remembered  another great way of doing it is like what I did on my first MOSS ( Master MOSS ) Cyno and Tag  a square piece of light ply or balsa to the front face of the mount and the secure the motor with screws like in the enclosed pics , don't cyno the motor to the mount

Any way congrats on the Maiden .
sai

PS : Great flying You guys seem to be flying in a very small space how big is it ? ???

thank you sai uncle i will use this method as it is better. have you sent the deans plugs which you had forgotten while sending the plane

hi pikle6

how was the wind condition n speed at the time of flight ??

sahil

it was dead calm when we flew it. i did not measure it though but i can say that it was really calm i don't think there was any wind at all. and sai uncle we flew in a smaller area not in the big one where we used to fly before as pramod bhaiya said it would be enough. it was like 1 and 3/4 ths of a basket ball field

That is real small a field  :o. for learning especially .
I should say  considering the size of the ground the Pilot and the  aircraft seem to have done well

next flight is hopefully on Saturday after which i shall be putting in mods ;D ;D ;D

hey guys my exams finish tomorrow and then i will put in the instructions to aileron mods and also the new mounting system for the motor. and i think i will be going to shirdi tomorrow so by sunday i should be back and would have completed my planes settings.

hey guys i was just thinking of the moss and suddenly i thought why not edf on the moss. thats a wild thought i will think of it laterrrr after atleast my exams are over

i will for sure try the edf system after i get this plane completely trimmed and finish my vtol project as this month is just for the VTOL plane and many flights too

well one morething guys the monsoon has started to arrive in mumbai i love rainy season as sometimes due to excessive water we get a school holiday so more work on planes but also you cannot fly


anwar bhaiya can you delete this post as i have started a new thread on monsoon. thanks

hello sai uncle what do you think of edf probably a 64mm system on a moss.

thanks for the deans connectors sai uncle. will fly asap

hey pikle 6 how did u join both the fuses ?

You can get a small piece of Wood the type carpenters use  when the fix photo frames on the wall . test fit it flush into the two tubes and then cyno them in .
QED.
Sai

i guessed it.. but cutting that wood to fit isn't  proving to be easy!  ;D

You have  to do some building right  ;) ;) ;D ;D

UPDATE of the MOSS ,
I tried out the MOSS  as a basic aerobatic Trainer by taking of the Polyhydrals and adding aileron's  worked  well enough  despite reasonable  winds  last saturday  here is a Video .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aIM4WmQi0A

The MOD is very simple Pull out the POLY's and cut ailerons from center outwards around 1" cord of aileron used 2 6 gm servos wil Y connector  and  got back the Original MASTER MOSS with a rudder .

Hi there to every one...

im a basic beginner in rc world..

im using the sp4mm3r combo kit, bought from Mr.Sai..

kindly pls guide me in fixing the motor mount to the motor...and also in fixing the propeller to motor..

Thanks A lot !!!

go through this thread! u will find the ways to mount the motor and the propeller!  :thumbsup:

A query regarding the shape of the wing on MOSS..  :headscratch:

What shall be the difference in flight characteristics, if
1> The shape of wing is kept un-cut i.e. rectangle...
2> The shape of the wing is clipped from corners (as in Subbu's or Mr Rao's case)
3> The shape of the wing is rounded from the edges (as is marked on the kit itself)

Sorry if this sounds vague, as I cant connect my cell phone (which has the pictures) to the PC to give clarity on my question....

if at all there is a difference , it will be minor. But the important thing is that the polyhedral at both ends   are attached .
there will be a great difference in flight characteristics without the polyhedral,the shape of which doesn't matter that much( that's what i understood  with my conversation with Mr Sai's son Venkat)

The polyhedral wing will be much more stable and will glide much better than a flat wing. You could have a small angle at the center and then the wing tips at a higher angle.

Shall I use any some other hard aluminium instead of polyhedral?

please tell me where is the cg of the glider ?

hi,

I have planned a Mr Moss based wing

Length is 28" + 6" + 6" with cord of 7"  for a 30" length

Coro is 3mm.

Do you think this is ok ?

What are the dimensions of Original Moss.

Original is 32" + 7 " x 7 "  and 30 "  fuse  with 8 " cord

is the coro 3mm or 4mm

Wow, I thought It's me who is mad.... but seeing picturs of the courier now I am happy that there many like me who feel same when they see the brown, rectangular shipment which have their name on it and they feel thirlled opening it.  :giggle: who have dreams of best landings and who spent time sitting on computer just to have one glimps of some new video posted about aircrafts. I have seen almost all videos and picturs on Aircrafts and everyday wait eagerly for new postings.  :thumbsup:  :bow: thank god for blessing me this hobby.

Does the moss have coro thickness of 3mm or 4mm

bump

i tried as per the guidelines on a 3mm coro and did a test flight today. I did fly ok but in the mid air both the wings began to flutter and i lost speed and it came crashing.

I already have put 2 12" carbon rods in the wing in sequence but it does reach only about 75% of wing.

What is the best method of strengthening the wing ?

Form a triangular wing reinforcement  with either CF rods or Skewer sticks .
Rough Diagram  enclosed   the bold lines  show how to do the reinforcement.
The thin line between the  bold triangles is the CF rod

hi,

This is the picture of Moss , i have already reinforced the wings with triangle wooden skewers as advised,

Do you think the dihedral is ok ,

<Modified >
 {:)} {:)} {:)} {:)} {:)}
Did a test flight and it did fly ok.

Except for the tail heavy symptom, absolutely no control and finally a broken prop

Thanks to Mr Sai for his advise and guidance.

Hi Sai,

I received the MR Moss glider ARF Kit a few days back. Thanx for the same. This is my first build and I have gone through this entire post (and others). Pardon me for some very basic questions. (1) Where is the second smaller fiber glass rod being used? (2) And I presume I have to cut the wing to the same breadth as the polyhydras (7 inches). (3) Do I use the thicker rod for the bend (connecting the polyhydral to the wing) and the thinner one for the servo connectors? (4) Does the main wing require reinforcement or should it be fine as it is?.. I am getting all excited to fly my first plane... Would appreciate your help with the answers.

First of all  go ahead and try out what ever you think is possible  with it . The idea behind MOSS is to allow flexibility in building it the way you  can imagine. There are no rules and regulations concerning MOSS build  ;D
Having said that  the answers to your questions are :
1) Both fiber glass tubes have to be joined together to acheive the correct length of 30 " for the fuse.
2) Some cut it to the  width of polyhydrals others leave the extra as it is to use as ailerons later the  extra width does affect the flying charecteristics  when left , but some persons I know have  adjusted to it and fly it comforably with the additional width.
3) You can use cycle spokes for bending the polyhydral  rods
4)  Depends on the wind conditions  some additional reinforcement is need if you fly in high wind areas.

Rgds
Sai

wt is EPP plane

hello sai uncle this is abhi from hyderabad.
the Mr.Moss glider is delivered in this morning, can i have its documentation 

Welcome to RC India :)

Please use the "Search" feature of this forum, as there is already a lot of information on the Moss (including build threads) already posted.

Here is a Photo Guide to build Mr Moss :
https://picasaweb.google.com/rcforallin/MRMOSSASSEMBLY

Sai

what is the cg point

its been a long time since i started this thread to answer kamaraj's query

while i flew it the cg was about 7 inches from the forward end of the aircraft

Subbu

please give suggesstion
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajIoV8VNNu8&feature=plcp