Multiplex Easy Star bought from RCD.

The box contents of the kit.

Wow! here comes the ace balsa scratch builder trying his hands on Foam! All the best Sanjeev! I would also highly recommend to re hinge all the control surfaces to reduce any binding and save from servo failures mind flight.

What is the recommended method of re-hinging ?

@Ujjawal & Anwar.
I will be securing the Tail plane and Elevator surfaces at the hinge line with tape and the same for the Fin and Rudder surfaces. This will be shown during the assembly of the model.

The big question is what type of tape !

There are funny/subtle difference in the "sticking characteristics" of various types of tape, depending on the surface.

I ended up buying an assortment of hinges when i was starting RC. But with my short experience with building 5-6 foamies and modding Bala's EASY* /mine AXN floater, the easiest way to hinge a foamie is to use Clear 3M/Scotch Tape or if your budget permits, get '3M Blendrum' tape sold on e-bay / rebanded by towers as 'Hinge Tape'. I would like to caution people to stick to 3M/Sctoch brand for clear tape as I have found the local brands not good enough.
Using fiber tape is also an option, but it would again add some binding. You may use it in small strips on the 'Bevelled' side of the control surface, but surely not on the other side where you run the tape from one end to other.

Whatever tape you use, do squeeze out any air bubble by firmly pressing the tape using a Credit card or other hard plastic (without damaging the foam ofcourse).

I have a video for re-hinging/reinforcing AXN floater which would be applicable for Easy8 as well, but I would not Hijack Sanjeevs thread and put it on a separate thread.

EMAX IN-RUNNER BRUSHLESS 2836-17 Specifications:
Dimension: ￠27.8X36（mm）
Shaft: ￠3.175X12.0(mm)
Weight: 66g
Voltage = 7.4V – 14.8V (2 - 4 cell Li-poly batteries)
Max Current = 15 amps for 30 seconds
KV = 2450
Mounting holes are spaced 19mm and 16mm, and accept 3mm screws (Which would not be required).

Propeller for the 2836-17 with 3-cell Li-poly battery: EMP 6x3E

Battery: Tipple Power 3-Cell Li-poly 1800mAh 20C
Dimension: 105x35x22mm
Weight:150grams.

ESC: EMAX 25A
Weight: 22grams
Dimension: 24x45x11mm (width*length*height)

Servos: Power HD 16grams Analog Servo—HD-1160A - 2nos
Weight:  16g
Dimension:  29x11.7x30.2mm
Supply voltage:  6.0V
Stall Torque:  2.7kg.cm
No load Running Speed:  0.12sec/60°
Storage Temperature:    -15℃~55℃
Dead band width:  ≤4us

Gold connector – 3.5mm 6pairs

Silicon wire extension to connect the In-runner Brushless to the ESC.

Prop adaptor spinner type to suit 3.175mm shaft.

Deans plug pair for Battery - ESC

Setup looks real good. Do put a Shrink Tube over the Inrunner before putting in the pod. Any subsequent crash, it would be easy to remove the motor.

You can save 10-15 odd grams by extending the motor wire by soldering to the extension and eliminating the 3.5 mm bullet connector. Apart from this minor weight saving, a solder is more reliable and lossless than a bullet.

Any plan for re-enforcing the nose with layers of fiber cloth and glue ? I have noticed many nose damage than any other part with Easy*

The glue used is Cyanoacrylate manufactured by My-T-Lok. Grade 793 which is medium thick ( not watery ).
Cyanoacrylate is also know as Super Glue, Cyno, CA etc etc.
The Cyanoacrylate is used with the Balsa USA Gold Quick-Shot.
This is a Cyanoacrylate Accelerator.
CA Accelerator also called the Kicker,Zapper etc.

Sanjeev & RCD

How do i get these? all set to build acromaster and funjet, incl 2218 & 2820 motors with ESC, only glue to go.

I have started my assembly first with the fuselage.

The pod fits the In-runner like a glove, so there are no modifications done to the pod.

Now the modifications done on the fuselage was to accommodate the wire that have to be routed inside the fuselage on the starboard side. Starboard side means the right side of the fuselage looking from the front of the aircraft.

The manufacturer has given two grooves, one on the top going down into the fuselage and one from top dropping down to the bottom and going along the fuselage at the bottom. They fit the brused Permax 400 motor wires. The brushed motor has two wire only.

Since we are now using the brushless in-runner, the number of wires are three. The modification done now is to enlarge the top groove to accommodate the two wires and also to have the grooves cut out a little more, to also accommodate the 3.5mm Gold connectors. The wire running from top to the bottom of the fuselage had no modifications done and the only had to make the groove a little large to accommodate the 3.5mm Gold conector.

The port side of the fuselage had no modifications made. Port side means the left side of the fuselage looking from the front of the aircraft.

The sequence of photos take will give you the exact picture to what I have done.

Pictures.

More pictures.

Even normal cello tape would do nicely to reinforce the control surfaces. This is from first hand exp on a 40 size glow plane. Where the tape which was used to seal off the hinge gap when the model was finished (i.e. alomst 10 years ago) held on better than the GP cyano hinges. And it was this ordinary cello tape which saved my model from sure death. 

Not sure about polluting this thread but... I have noticed that the "sticking capability" of various type of tape on different types of foam was different.  Some would peel off with the minimum effort from some surfaces, while they work great on others !  On the AXN type, which would be similar to Easystar (I am guessing), it seems like "Duck" tape (with those fibers inside) worked very well (although its use for hinging needs some thought).

Monokote seems to like almost any type of tape.

Normal see through packing tape sticks good on easystar.

I think I should have mentioned that my tape which literally stuck on was indeed stuck on Monokote. I guess it has to do with the structure of the substrate. The foam is porus loosely bonded, which leads to the tape coming off easily

Hi Sanjeev,

Hope you remember me -MVVS .049 ENGINE from Goa,Engine is still doing well.

so how much did this electric model cost you ?

regards
peter

Hey Peter,

Its been ages since we have spoken.
Please Pm me your mobile no.
We have some good aeromodellers from Goa in Bangalore building balsa planes.
One of them from this forum is RC and the Medicine man.

Regards
Sanjeev

Hi Sanjeev How much did the Multiplex easy star cost you. was it with the brushless or you had to buy it seperately?

Mr Sai is selling for more than Rs 8000/- including shipping is it reasonable? as per lisiting it is without any power system or a servo. Just the foams with decals I suppose. I am not sure weather I should cancel the order or not.

 

Mr. Sundaram,
Khubalai
The Easy Star come for about Rs.4000/- odd after the shipping.
It includes the Permax 400 brushed motor and the prop.
You need Servos,rx and esc to complete it.
I have upgraded mine to brushless.
Sanjeev

Hey Sanjeev ,

This is news as the prices is quite reasonable but how much did it cost you with the brushless motor & what esc are you using on this model.

Medicine man is my freind,we both are from MARGOA & some time fly togather
 
Send me your wed site?

are you still into aeromodelling business ? if yes send me yr site

regasrds
peter

Hey Peter.

Sanjeev's web site address is:

http://www.rcdhamaka.com

Hi Sanjeev,

This is a new site I believe ,you had an old site right,any way.

prices are quite good on yr site but which model Im lookingat are all SOLD OUT.
Arrow Tiger Advanced Low Wing Trainer .46 - Red -Rs.4,657.60.

Escape Low Wing Trainer -Rs.4,200.00

Edge 540T .46 Red -Rs.6,106.40

Is there any addition cost ?
shipping
taxes ,pls advise

regards
peter

You can check all the details on their website.
Create a ID on RCDHAMAKA.COM

Just add the item to your cart & click on check out, it gives the price with the tax and shipping to your address.

Thanks RC VET,

will check it out

regards
peter

@Ujjawal I did something and thank you for you eagle eye. I
 had insurance done by putting another heat shrink sleeve(5mm dia) on the joint.

@ Ujjawal I hope on the weight issue we have a average problem.

The Permax 400 motor weight was 75grams and the In-runner's weight is 66grams. So adding the bullet connectors would not make any difference in weight.

Now back to the fuselage build.

Put some glue on the starboard side of the pod and placed the in-runner.
Guided the wires and put a drop of cyano to secure it at various places (see pic below).

After this we go to the port side of the fuselage and apply glue along the fuselage.
Then stick the starboard and port side together.
This is how it looks the finished fuselage.

The Fin/Rudder & Tail plane/Elevator.

Before starting to assemble this, I took a look at the hardware packet.

It had Velcro strips 25x60mm - 3pairs , Canopy locks - 2 pairs , Control horns - 2 nos , Pushrod connector M2 (2mm) - 2 nos and an Allan key size 1.5mm.

Now I had to take both the control horns, one for the elevator and the other for the rudder.
The elevator control horns fitted in to the slot perfectly. I had to cut the T-shaped part of the rudder horn by about 1 mm to fit it into the rudder slot. The holes on the control horn were exact center to the hinge line.

The either sides of the elevator had to be cut to make the control surface functional and had to cut the top portion of the rudder to also make it functional.

The Elevator and Rudder are glued together at a 90deg angle.
Please check this by using a set-square.

Wing Assembly

This is the most easiest part of the Easy Star.
The wing has on either sides has a wing joiner(fiberglass tube 8mm dia) cover.
See picture.

While gluing the covers make sure that you do not get any glue in the center of the channel on either sides i.e the wing side and the cover side where the wing joiner goes in or it would be difficult to slide in the joiner.

Once this is glued properly the wing is ready.

Hi Sanjeev,

What the price you got this model & what else came along with it ?

regards
peter

Sorry I was held up with work.

The Tail plane was glued on the fuselage.

The canopy clips have also been glued.

The fuselage is ready.

Now its to put the electronics and the decals.
I would finish the decal part first before putting the electronics.

Putting in the Decals on the Easystar.

One more pic.

Somewhere on this site someone mentioned FEVIFIX as a suitable glue for construction of Easystar, but I am unable to find this brand on the Pedilite website and also in the local  market . Is it FIVIFIX or is it that I have the wrong name.Help

Jitender

Its is Fevi Kwik not fevifix

"Fevi Kwik"  No I am sure it was not this name as the topic was on how to apply glue on all the surfaces in the very short time that cyno glues take to bind. Some one had suggested FEVIFIX  or something like it, this was about 7-10 days ago.
(This glue FEVIFIX takes a longer time to set, and hence was suggested by the person).

Jitender

a search for "fevifix" returned this...
http://www.rcindia.org/tools-materials-and-building-techniques/multiplex-easystar-gluing/msg49761/#msg49761
BTW: i prefer using fevikwik 203.

Thank you, this was the post I was looking for.
I have an easystar with me for the last 3 months, but I have not been able to decide which glue to use.
Fevikwik and Elfy are available but do you think it is possible to apply a coat on all the surfaces before it sets.I think you have an easy star, how did you do it.

Jitender

this is how i do it
http://www.rcindia.org/tools-materials-and-building-techniques/multiplex-easystar-gluing/msg47567/#msg47567