Anyway you are going to cut the extra 20mm part so just cut it carefully and use it as aileron.
This will save some piece of coro 

even if i cut that extra portion,I have to make the aileron from separate piece of coro only because tat 20mm portion's flutes are running chord-wise n for ailerons the flutes should be on span-wise..am i correct??

Go ahead...just remember...even if you are building this for first time....it is not always necessary to follow plan exactly....you can always change some things as per your convenience

well my final doubt: if i build the aileron for 30mm n glue it over the extended 20 mm portion,is the remaining 10mm after the hinge enough for the flying characteristics?

would you please upload a quick sketch of  what exactly you want to do?

Sketch

So you want to use remaining 10 mm as aileron or whole 30mm as aileron...?

I m attaching pic of my wing which is 200mm in chord length.
I have used aileron width of 30mm and cut a piece of width 30mm from wing and attached them as aileron.

I want to use whole 30mm as aileron,so the portion after the hinge line should be 30mm rite??

yes ...portion after hinge line will be 30 mm if you want to use 30 mm aileron.

Thanks Spitfire..I'll cut 50mm pieces n glue it over the 20mm extended portion..

Best luck for your build...looking forward to maiden...!

Friends I'm not able to balance my elevator.after gluing,one side it touching the floor..I have inserted into the slots which i cut in the fuse..Wat will be solution for this? Lookin for help..

Can i remove it from the slot and glue it in the fuse bottom?

Any suggestion?

Spaders pls reply my question..Where r u Ismail,Edwin,R C,Flyingdoc and who ever built spad?

hi Krish,
   Glad to see u persevering with ur avispad build  
I login almost every day but hardly find time to post (of fly or build for that matter) but addicted as I am to this forum, I manage to glance in every now and then.

As for the imbalance in ur elevator, if the measurements are equal in both the sides, check for flexing in the section of the fuse between the wing and the elevator. A little bit is ok. If the measurements is off in the elevator section, gently trim the extra. if the wings balance fine and the elevators look about right, u could go ahead with the maiden. Spads DieHard! or rather Hardly Die! So.......

Good Luck

Hi Krish,

I am also same as Martian, could not browse through every thead with my limited time.

Anyway, I see your problem. It happens during your early build stages but now that you have learnt it I am sure you would be more careful in your next builds. This is where you need to have a L angle tool and a spirit level.

The easier solution is to use sturts for the tail feathers. The side with the lower horiz stablizer shall have a shorter sturt connecting to the vertical stabilizer. This would ensure that the lower horiz stab is pulled up in place. Similarly the other side should have a longer sturt so that it pushes the horiz stab down. You can do the struts on top and bottom of the stabilizer to make it even more solid.

If you ask me this is an "easier" way to get out of it... but I would not prefer to have static load on any of the control surfaces.. if I were you, I would rebuild the horiz stab once again..

-Ismail

In my next fuse i'm thinking to stick the elevator in the bottom instead of sticking in the slot..

Well, its up to you.

Sticking the stabilizer in the slot is not a big deal.. it just a matter of extra caution/steps to be taken care of.

-Ismail

Hi Krish,
Same story as Ismail. Was reading some threads but not writing for some time now
Ok what I gather being ur problems.
Wing : What I do is first make the wing with the flutes running cord wise. Gives a perfect aerofoil with no angles. Is very tight with the spar so the spar has support. I first measure and cut the ailerons according to the dimentions in the plan, stick them to the inside of the lower portion of the wing and then score the fold line and stick it to the upper portion of the aileron. This way I get a flat wing. Now I put a 1 1/2 inch lipping patti (Any wood shop) just ahead of the spar line and twist it so that it stand on its side and there is space to slip in the actual spar. I use 30 min epoxy for the spar and then slip it in place and let it dry. The same is done for the other wing and both sides are fixed in the middle with a strip of coro.
Now for the fuse: I feel that the slot cut is not straight...  and or the horizontal stab has not been centered correctly. I use a right angle from a geometry set to get the horizontal and vertical stab at right angles to each other.
You could try putting spokes as struts to pull the lower side up but that would offset the weight and along with that add to the weight of the plane. Along with that, now that u have already stuck the horizontal, putting a strut would put tortional stress on the fuse and there would be a tortion in the fuse.
The pain of seeing a plane not flying well after a long build is too much.... so u have 2 choices. Make it and fly it as it is...Or.... Rebuild. Tough call.
Hope it comes out well.
Safe landings
doc

Even if the stablizer is at a angle you can still fly the plane. Remember, TLAR principle works well in SPAD designs.

Thanks for the replies friends..Can i get a list of tools to build the stabilizers correctly?

Hi Krish,
Here is one way of getting the stab and fin correct...

Mohan can u post the pics of ur avispad?