Wanted an agile aerobatic/3D/funfly and the twist suited   . Though the canopy, lower wing cover and painting is still unfinished, maidened today and liked it  


Here are some pics and the maiden video. Will update with more pics once the canopy/paintscheme is done with. Pasted some vinyl for orientation purpose and it helped. Will soon be changed to a different paint scheme.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZTVwwv9jsoM&feature=youtu.be

  neat build, have you followed any plan for this? looking forward to see the finished model after adding color scheme.....

Few days ago I was going through a thread where I saw a method of moulding coro to a curved shape for using in canopy. The modeller there used a heat gun and at high temperature and applied heat on the underside of the coro sheet to form a curved shape for canopy.

What you are planning to use as canopy?

Thanks Amit As usual 2L Soda/Cola bottle   Mean time, I am looking for a good cheap heatgun so that I could mold plastic. Sandwiched depron is another option but wont be transparent. I want to try to make it as scale as possible. Even the color scheme selected is from the real one (Green/Blue).

Here is another video of it:



Edit : Amit, if you dont mind, could you please post the link of that coro molding here or pm me? Would like to know more about it as it could come handy some day

forgot to answer your question: I followed the balsa plan by waldo on RCG (tweplica) as a guideline and used the VSF method of forsty (spadworld) to speed up the build. Wing was piece of cake but the fuse took some time to complete as I was very careful to keep the weight to a minimum.

I am trying to find that link in my browser history but didnt succeeded yet. Will post the link if I find it. The method as I can recall was simple. Took a piece of 4mm coro and creased the inner flutes, placed this coro sheet over a round object like a pipe and then applied heat on the creased flutes. When the coro sheet came to normal temperature the creased flutes have already taken the rounded shape.

Looks like you have used 4mm coro for fuse and 2mm for wings, what you have used for wing spar.

I used 4mm for fuse, 2mm wing-skin and 6mm spar re-enforced in the middle. And for tail, vertical is 4mm and 6mm horizontal stabs. No pvc pipes or other materials used other than bamboo skewers (a technique I improvised for adding strength while reducing weight)

Some build pics.

nice build buddy! keep it up..could you post a pic of the motor mounting area.? post specs. what electronics used?

Thanks snehal, will post soon. The setup is: Its just a flat piece of lite ply epoxied to the fuse side walls.

Motor: Turnigy G46 670kv
Esc    : Plush 60A
Battery: Turnigy 4S 3000 20C
Prop:     12x8 Master Airscrew
Servos: Std.

Not from the same build, but from the edge540 build. But it will give you an exact view of how I do my motor mounts. This simple mounting method (dont know whether it could be called a method at all )has proven reliable from small to .60 size electric builds for me while reducing the complexity and weight.

very nice build.

Electronics are heavy. What are weight specs?? Do you think that mounting technique will provide enough support ??.Mine one vibrated like hell.

Thanks Manu

snehal, all my SPADs are electric and I have been using this method from foamies to .60 size electrics. Never had a problem. Prop balance could be the problem. And about weight, AUW was 4 pounds 8oz. But later I had to add few more oz of dead weight to balance. Its about 4# 12oz now. And by the way, the real thing ( H9's twist .40) weighs 5#4 oz with minimum setup! Mine floats a lot better due to the weight reduction.

Couldn't do it the way I wanted. Anyhow, I put some paint on her. Still to paint the fuse, some final touch-ups and the canopy. Had couple of flights today and enjoyed.

Beautifull colour scheme..n nice built.. Do justice to the model..

also, have a look a this

http://www.rcindia.org/rc-maneuvers-and-skills/3d-tutorials-for-realflight-g4-and-higher-versions/msg108988/#msg108988

Thank you shadman_alam

Sam me boy, that looks like a store bought ARF! 

Beautiful build, curious to know how you plan to make the cockpit canopy.

Thanks a lot for your kind words VC

It was built per a balsa plan (valdo's tweplica) with a single bolt-on wing. Came out liter than the original and very fun to fly. Will be uploading some more flight videos soon. Still tweaking this bird for the best CoG and rates. And about the canopy tried soda/cola bottles but the shape wont match ( it matched perfect on my edge though). Now, i am considering foam.

Suggestions are most welcome

Congratulations on the new model! so is the spar just a strip of 6mm coro, flutes span wise? Saw a similar spar on one of sbajare's build; need to get me some 6mm coro now.

Thanks SunLikeStar , The spar is 6mm but sandwiched in the middle criss-cross for additional strength. 4mm would do but I had some 6mm lying around. With the 2mm skin, the wing is feather lite and cant hold it in your hand if there is a slightly heavy wind. The best part is the single bolt-on , no more struggling with the rubber-bands it takes less than a minute to get the plane flight ready!

Last day's video:

Wonderful build!.. very nice flying too..

Thanks a lot Izmile  believe it or not, your kind words to me is like a medal of honor 

The pleasure is mine... 

BTW, Is you tail feather sturdy enough to sustain high speed dives? By the looks of the surface area it may flutter at windy/high speed dives. I preferred to use braces for the tail feathers to avoid flutter. If at all you want to make this bird slightly tail heavy (most 3d planes are tail heavy anyway) think about adding tail braces. I am sure with you flying skills you would enjoy this bird slightly tail heavy.

-Ismail

Thats what make you different from the rest of us dear Ismail bhai

The H-stab is sturdy 6mm (for obvious reasons ) and the V-stab is 4mm. I do have flutter at full speed on the ailerons. The aileron servo placement is very close to the fuse plus its is a cheap HK mini. I was thinking about changing these with Hitec 425BB (which I have) and might move the aileron control horns a little far from the fuse. (By the way, during the maiden it was horrible at higher speeds and I cut "V" on both aileron ends which helped a bit.)

And about the CG, I intentionally had it nose heavy for the maiden flights. Last day I removed just about 50g of weight from the nose bit by bit after each flight. Like you said, its still a bit nose heavy as you could see from my hover attempts and the need for elev pushing during slow flying.

I truly value your comments and is seriously thinking about adding tail braces just to be on the safe side. Next time at the field, she will be more on the tail heavy side for sure

Sameer.

nice flying man...dont worry too about flutters in corro models.. its unavoidable.. just fly slower..
check out my version of the plane.. i made one wing which still exists n all the fuse i made either crashed or abandoned due to over weight.. power to weight 3:1 n flight time hardly 3-4 mins but complete adreneline rush..

i ll send a link for remaining.. 200kb limit is too irritating..

here..


http://db.tt/L7ZRqAfg

Sam some good flying there, you landing have become 'Makhan'. you can make out that she is nose heavy for 3D, i am sure you have corrected it

Good job alam! Do you have a link to the build? and thanks mate

Thanks a lot for your kind words Gusty bhai That was the second time I take her out. Slowly reducing nose weight before each flight. Hope to bring it where I wanted by next couple of flights

A lousy attempt to build a canopy using foam from a computer packing box.

Looks good to me!! do take a look at 1 liter mirinda bottel, it has curves suitable for building a canopy

Thanks Sunlikestar, will give it a try

Nice build and super flying Sameer! The landing is indeed very tempting Can you please elaborate a bit on how you made the bolt system for the wing (with pics)?

Thanks Vishal! Will upload soon.

As you could see per below pics, there are two 8mm dowels on LE side which locks into plywood slots inside the fuse. At the TE side, its a single HK 6mm nylon bolt which goes into a 6mm blind nut.

Let me know if you need more info

Thank you Sameer! A pic of the lower trailing edge of the wing would be appreciated. I guess that's where you insert the bolt.

Edit: Sorry! Didn't know you were still uploading the pics! Got it now!

Dear, I was editing it while you posted

Hey nice built....!

Thanks Naresh

excellent spad design,
i have decided to build my first foamie, but your spad build inspired me to try coroplast build first.

how did you get the rounded shape behind the canopy leading up to the tail.

Hi Sagi,

Thanks a lot for your kind comments. My build was basically based on the actual balsa plans for "Tweplica". However, I adopted Frosty's VSF for the fuse plan which certainly helped me complete her with out much hassle. You could find Frosty's thread here:

http://spadworld.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14425&highlight=vsf  and mine here,

http://spadworld.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18648&highlight=vsf

Except for the VSF, I opted my own techniques (bamboo skewers and coro flutes) for strenthening the frame which reduced the AUW quite significantly You could easily get the round shape with the VSF (V shaped fuze). Its a fun plane and a real floater at just over 4#.

Don't know how I missed this post earlier   

Great build and great flying Sam 

Thanks dear  appreciate your kind words