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« Reply #50 on: April 26, 2012, 06:48:40 PM »
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After this Darlington pair is completed, what do we do next?
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« Reply #51 on: April 26, 2012, 07:08:54 PM »
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VC Sir.. its too hard to upload fast.. when we finish the Darlington pair, the 80% of our work is done.. after this stage, we have only a little work of adding the potentiometer and and final wiring.. trying to upload..
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« Reply #52 on: April 26, 2012, 10:50:35 PM »
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              Up to now, we saw a simple pair of transistors as Darlington.. is capable of driving some smaller motors.. and look for a great powerful pair, that can haul a big load.. this pair is wired around the ever classic transistor TIP 3055.. you can also use 2N 3055 or similar, but will be much heavy and cumbersome.. will take lots of space.. but TIP 3055 is a great package is very weight less and thin.. and can fix to any surface because of its smaller size and flat bottom.. so check out..
               Here we are starting with one TIP 3055 and one SL 100..
fix the transistor over a good heat sink, with insulator..

ESC-17.jpg
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« Reply #53 on: April 26, 2012, 10:54:58 PM »
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        Now solder the smaller transistor, (SL100), as shown.. you can clearly see the all leads..
in close ups..

ESC-19.jpg
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« Reply #54 on: April 26, 2012, 11:02:01 PM »
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solder a good high density copper wire with RED insulation on the COLLECTOR leads of transistors.. this wire is the BATTERY +..
solder a good high density copper wire with YELLOW insulation on the EMITTER of TIP 3055... this wire is MOTOR +..

ESC-21.jpg
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« Reply #55 on: April 26, 2012, 11:07:14 PM »
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now take two equal lenghts of HD copper wire with BLACK insulation, and cut it half.. then rejoin the wire at center and solder it.. after soldering, this BLACK wire must be twisted on the RED and YELLOW wires as shown.. this BLACK wire is for BATTERY - and MOTOR -...

ESC-23.jpg
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« Reply #56 on: April 26, 2012, 11:12:20 PM »
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now solder a good electrolytic capacitor in between the EMITTER of the TIP 3055, and the BATTERY - wire as shown.. a 4700 micro Farad capacitor is best.. can use a small 1000 MFD.. make sure that the leads of the capacitor is short as possible..

ESC-25.jpg
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« Reply #57 on: April 26, 2012, 11:17:36 PM »
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solder three wires as you like, on the sliding potentiometer as shown.. if you purchase a dual one, you can simply avoid the next three terminals and can choose the needed three leads..
solder the center point of the potentiometer, to the BASE of the SL 100 transistor as shown..

ESC-27.jpg
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« Reply #58 on: April 26, 2012, 11:22:16 PM »
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never solder the center wire as wrong.. take a good care about this..
after that solder any of the extreme end of the potentio meter to the BATTERY -... as shown.. in the second photograph..

ESC-29.jpg
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« Reply #59 on: April 26, 2012, 11:28:21 PM »
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now we have a thirth wire from the potentiometer, here coloured as yellow.. solder this one to the COLLECTOR points of both transistors.. we can add 100 to 500 Ohms resistor in between the potentio meter and the COLLECTOR ( BATTERY +) lead but here it is not essntial..
now the basic ESC is ready for the test.. see how simple it is..

ESC-31.jpg
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« Reply #60 on: April 26, 2012, 11:36:35 PM »
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now connect the YELLOW and BLACK wire to the motor that you want to run..
if you want to change the direction of the motor, just change the motor wires.. and before going to connect BATTERY wire, make sure that the moving arm of the potentiometer, is closed at the BATTERY - point of the potentio meter.. if not the motor will start instantly while connecting the battery.. can inflict damage or injuries.. take care.. after making sure, just connect the battery wire to a battery source, as RED + and BLACK -.. 

ESC-33.jpg
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« Reply #61 on: April 26, 2012, 11:41:29 PM »
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        Now we can add any motor to the ESC.. make sure the heat sink is good while using big loads.. and if the load is too much, you can add and bridge a second TIP 3055 near to the main transistor.. or can add three for huge loads..
here you can see various motors under test..

ESC-35.jpg
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« Reply #62 on: April 26, 2012, 11:50:38 PM »
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the speed of the motor will change while the sliding resistor moves from one end to another.. we can change the up and down side of the speed by changing the two extreme wires on potentiometer.. now, we got the simple but effective ESC.. then how can we control the speed by a hobby radio..? and how can we achieve the reverse..? follows..

ESC-37.jpg
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« Reply #63 on: April 27, 2012, 12:19:37 AM »
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Roopesh sir,what should we call you  Huh?...a genius ?.. god gifted ? Gods gift to all modellers on rcindia ?...all of the above ?....ABSOLUTELY Clap... Thumbs Up ...words are not enough to describe the greatness we know as Mr. Roopesh Krishna sir... Hats Off
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« Reply #64 on: April 27, 2012, 12:35:45 AM »
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Dr Khannajee, now we are living in a graceful time of Modelling.. means we have ample of stuffs around us.. but when i started modelmaking years before, to me nothing was around.. and my radio was a self made crude one, but i controlled my craft nicely.. today we have the edge of 2.4 GHz.. still, the needed stuffs are expensive.. this keeps many modellers far from modelling.. so, here you can see how simple is to make an ESC..!!  we never used any electronic complications here.. still works fine.. we will exmine all things here, by step by step, as how to control the speed with radio, reverse, cooling stuffs.. watercooling all.. will works perfectly, and saves us a lots.. there is no amazements.. if you examine once you will find it all easy.. make crafts.. RCyit..many.. save lots.. while enjoying Rcying... Salute Thumbs Up
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« Reply #65 on: April 27, 2012, 12:42:29 AM »
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I'm all ears sir,following this topic very keenly with complete interest. Thumbs Up
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« Reply #66 on: April 27, 2012, 01:18:28 AM »
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 Salute follows..
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« Reply #67 on: April 27, 2012, 03:15:27 PM »
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« Reply #68 on: April 27, 2012, 07:53:01 PM »
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« Reply #69 on: April 27, 2012, 10:07:53 PM »
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  thank you all..
Up to here, we made the ESC with ease.. now we have to control thespeed and reverse with our radio.. it is so easy to do that.. as we are avoiding all electronic complication, i told you we can adopt the electromechanical method here.. so, at first we can go to control the throttle level.. for this we need only a micro servo..

           At first, make an appropriate hole, on the moving arm of the potentio meter.. with a twist drill.. the hole must be appropriate, to the push rod that we are going to use.. 
         Now take the micro servo, and fix the longest servo arm on it..

ESC-39.jpg
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« Reply #70 on: April 27, 2012, 10:13:51 PM »
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now time to fix the potentio meter over a piece of foam board.. we can fix this firmly over a metal or wooden surface, but i prefer the foam board because of it's flexible nature.. you can see the simple fixation here.. take the picture as a key.. its all easy..

ESC-42.jpg
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« Reply #71 on: April 27, 2012, 10:22:11 PM »
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         Fix the servo in such a way, that the arm of the servo, can slide easily.. as shown.. you can choose any convenient method to place the servo.. this arrangement can also be done directly on crafts..

ESC-44.jpg
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« Reply #72 on: April 27, 2012, 10:26:18 PM »
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           if we are looking for a permanent set up, we can simply fix the servo with two drops of industrial cyano glue, but if not can fix the servo with screws..
           our next step is to fix the drive rod.. here i used a brass rod, to avoid any rust and smooth working..

ESC-46.jpg
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« Reply #73 on: April 27, 2012, 10:44:53 PM »
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                Make sure the servo drive rod  is perfect.. for smooth  working.. slice a little piece of ball point refill..

ESC-48.jpg
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« Reply #74 on: April 27, 2012, 10:50:34 PM »
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insert the piece over the drive rod end.. drop a little glue between it.. secure it..

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