Friends, Modellers, i am posting this article, due to some personal requests, about to replacing and repositioning of the shaft of a brushless motor..  a shaft of a brushed motor will be fixed firmly on its armature core, so, replacing it will be some head ache.. but not impossible.. but replacing or repositioning of a shaft from brushless motor is far easy and simple.. nowadays brushless motors are getting inexpensive and again, making the RCying more folky and popular..

so, at present anyone can enter in to RCying with a little budget.. so, there must be some various needs from brushless motors.. but most of the time we get some motors from company as it is.. so in some time we have to change the shaft position to the other end of the motor.. another instance to replace motor shaft is after crash, or accidents.. so, here we go..

all tips are the keys, and all you can adopt and use any apropriate ideas and tools but i hope we do not need any extra expensive tools or equpments.. need a good rate of patience and dedication, along with a sturdy hands..go on..

at first, we must check and examine, our motor with us.. as we carefully examins, we find one or two flush mout screws, around the neck of the motor, or on flange of the motor..as can see here..

we can see the same screws, known as Allen keys or as hex screws, on each motors.. on some it may be one and in some may be two on either sides..

the position of the Allen key screws may vary on each designs.. but it is so easy to find one as we looks around..the size of the screw head may vary according to the size of the motor..

the main tool for this purpose is the Allen keys itself.. we can simply purchase the needed Keys from any general purpose hardware shops, as in one or two, or as a complete set of 12 or 16 Keys.. another great option is to buy a cell phone repair screw driver set, this employs all needed keys and various other keys.. this set costs about 70 to 120 Rs/- but make sure the purchased set is a good one..

now time to work.. here imagine that we have a motor like this.. can see the drive shaft is protuding from the nose of the out runner.. so, our need is here to replace the shaft, that must protude from the back base of the ECM.. so work starts..

we must remove if the motor is fixed on any base.. remove it accordingly..

now can see an "E" clip at the base of the shaft..

just remove it with a pin plier or with a nose plier or with a flat head screw driver..

carefully keep the "E" clip in a safe place utill work time..

pull out the out running cup from stator..

now check for the stopper Allen key screw, and find it.. its easy to find it..
insert the apropriate sized key in slot.. make sure the key is in correct size.. a thinner key can simply grinds the cones of the screw, then makes great head aches.. so, make sure the key is perfect in size..

take the screw out with key and store it carefully.. in a plastic case..

now take a little hammer, used to pin nail on sides of the glass mouldings, must be light, but not too, or not too heavy..
piece of hard wood ply wood.. a thick clean cotton cloth..

attach a vise over a bench or on a table.. make sure the vise is firmly fixed without any jerks..

make a little gap between vise grips, for the sfaht..place the cloth over the vise..

place motor as shown, and do not tight the vise grips..make sure the rim of the motor nicely rests on the base of the vise..

place the plywood piece over the motor shaft.. you can use any apropriate hammer to stike.. but make sure to avoid repeated strokes, but with a single stroke, as firm..

now shaft is off from out runner..

Important:  we can also use an arbor press if we have to un install or to reinstall the shaft..
now, reload the shaft, in such a way, that the ridge of the "E" clip reaches at the nose of the out running cup..
replace the "E" clip at nose for added safety..

it is so clear the "E" clip..
and after setting tighten the key screw once.. with enough torque.. do not over tighten the screw..

after test for a smooth run, on stator, apply a little drop of industrial Cyano glue, may be from 72 to 76, or 242 or 47 on the stud of the "E" clip.. this avoids any slippage..
now motor is ready.. can see the shaft is coming from it's back panel..

add the prop or primary gear to the shaft with aproppriate couplings and mountings.. here we are ready for the show.. look how easy and simple..

nothing is extra ordinary, nothing is amazing but anyone can do.. that one needs a good rate of interest, and patience, and yes above all the dedication.. most of the ECMs are made by hand.. at factory..so never consider it all as some thing extreme engineering.. all are simple.. 

nice tutorial sir.

thank you Dharmik.. and carry on for more effective and creative model making..

Thanks Roopeshji for that Brilliant tutorial. 
some silly question to ask.       If during crash we bend the shaft or it gets damaged beyond repair.what to do to that motor. Normally we do not find spare shafts at LHS.  Can we use simple rods ? Will it get the hold with those small screw. It will be hard to fix E-clips without its slot .


So many questions...

Most shafts are easily available at LHS, only thing that matters most is the diameter. A slightly smaller of longer length shaft doesn't make any difference.
http://www.rcbazaar.com/category/89-motor-parts-mounts.aspx
http://www.aeroworks.co.in/motor_mounts_acc.html

Roopesh sir can we use 3.175 mm shaft for 3mm shaft motor?

 
 
thanks a million roopesh sirjee for this excellent tutorial, i will try this soon and let you know how well did i do

yes.. if we looks in to Local Hobby Stores, we can find many spare parts for motors .. in a serious crash, after dismatelling motor, we can look for the damages, and make sure that the out runner and stator are in good shape.. so, we can replace shaft easily.. we can make motor shafts from Stainless steel rods from a lathe works.. we can also make a shaft with a full thread, after the outrunner.. can also find shafts from scrapyards especially from automobile junkyards, as pump rods, pivot hinge rods etc.. most of them are will be in HTS, so no worry..
rewinding a motor is too easy.. so, no worry about winding damage.. i got some excellent results after rewinding some motors..

yes can use big dia shafts on a motor by drilling the out runner case, while replacing the motor bearing with apropriate bearings.. can also use thinner shafts, by making a bush in between the hole of the outrunner and shaft.. a cross rifling prevents the slippage.. the shaft slippage can be avoided by making a simple ridge over shaft by holding the shaft on a grinding wheel.. so, the sarew will secured within the ridge.. can also make a semi hole over shaft, with an arbor press drill, so the screw will goes in the hole and jams.. 

sirjee one thing which is bothering me a lot, how to remove that e-clip safely without breaking it :-/

Thank you sir. hmm..means to use 3.17mm dia shaft i will have to drill shell and replace bearings. Is there any alternatives sir? One more thing comes in my mind that, in engineering field people say each and every mm counts and matters so i was confused. I think 0.175mm is big difference. One more ques is any brushless bearing comes with specs like 8x4x3, 13x5x4 now which one is outerdia and which is inner dia? Is it like 8mm length, 4mm outer, 3mm inner dia?

Satya, you can purchase the pin pliers from electronics or tool shops, these pliers were used in the era of VHS VCRs, to remove mechanical parts from its tape deck mechanism.. but it is easy to remove the "E" clip from a base is easy with a sharp screw driver.. will upload a video for you..
Dharmik, usually, it is not needed to add a thicker shaft to a tiny motor.. because it will be some difficult to find a bearing set for it.. and it is , in some case, will be harder to carve out stator cavity for new bearings.. so, most of the time, adding a thicker shaft will be , cause to couplings from motor to any applications.. what i done menans in such situations, adding a simple sleeve to the outer shaft from outrunner.. to my desired size.. for bigger size applications it will be good to buy a big motor of it's kind.. and in some low load situations a self lube bushing also helps.. alteration of an exsisting mechanism will take a little careful reworks, lathe works as we poweres up a motor cycle or a car engine for race.. 

Okie i got it sir. Believe me it's pleasure to read and learn from experts like you. Been reading your tutorials since day one and i have saved your diy esc pics and many others on my pc, hovercraft pics of VC sir and Swapnil. You guys rock!

Dharmik.. nothing to rock.. because knowledge is not a monopoly to anyone.. if we have some interest and dedication anyone can do many things.. i always looks in to the hovercraft from VC Sir, and yes too inspired from the works of Swapnil.. it is too happy to spend a lots of time in RCI, and reading the articles from all of us.. got many clear ideas in aerodynamics, and some useful tips from Augustine sir.. a lots.. all are inspiring a lots.. 

it is easy to remove an "E" clip.. here you can see the "E" clip in close up, and can see two gaps between the extremes..

remove the base, if have any..
now the "E" clip became more clear to see..

now take a screw driver bit from the screw driver set, that it must be a flat one with a small edge possible.. means a micro flat head screw driver..

now insert the tip in to the gap of the "E" clip that we found just above.. the tip will be parrelel to the gap..

just twist the screw driver to any of a direction..
this will ejects the "E" clip from shaft simply, with a click noise..
use a magnetic tip, to remove the clip as the clip will sticks on the screw driver tip once, avoid any thrusting away..

can see how simple it is to remove.. it was done by my daughter.. nothing is complicated..

  :salute:Thank you sirjee. this helped me a lot.. will try it and get back

yes..its all easy..

Roopesh ji Request for sequential wiring of brushless 

oh..sorry..forgot..will add..thank you..