anwarji wats the difference between OS A3 & OS #8. one is more hotter than other? and these glow plugs are universal size? i mean they will fit into my car & other brans cars also?

The A3 is hotter than the #8.  But I am not sure sure what the common brands and models of plugs are used by car guys in India. 

The 2 strokes plugs should all be similar (from what I have seen), and they can be used across all engines (bearing in mind the "heat" factor).  The 4 stroke ones are longer.

ok thanx. AS3 is for a 2 stroke? i think i will order 1 from rotor.co.in

Please wait till someone like Ajo (mail4ajo) comments.  Yes, the ones I mentioned are 2 stroke plugs.

Also, I remembered one thing about how you connected the fuel lines.  In the picture below of your car :



The feedback from the muffler COULD be reversed.  Make sure the tube that goes into the carb from the tank is connected to the fuel port on the tank that has the clunk line.  I remember seeing tanks that have the connection from the muffler going to the side port of the tank and the port on the top is the one that feeds the carb.

Just verify this also.

For an example, see this video of how to prime and start.

anwar thank u so much for the video. it helped me a lot in understading the steps correctly. anyways wats happeninwith me is .....till the guy in the video primes n then pulls the starter after priming...it all happens exactly same as with me here also...but after the guy fits in the glow plug igniter n pulls teh cord the engine comes to life in 3-4 pulls....for me it never comes...now i think we have just one thing left.....oooo god i missed out to tell u 1 thing....my car was with my cousin in coimbatore. he had bought it there and used nitro fuel initially...he says he ran the car...for 3 tanks of fuel...after that i brought it to port b lair...no nitro fuel available here so i had to mix methanol n castor oil...so i think now teh problem is with teh fuel not getting ignited by glow plug...may b as u suggested i should go for a hotter plug!!

The idle at 1.5mm seems to be ok. Why dont you lean a bit more on low end needle and try. I have always noticed that factory settings are way too rich for our conditions.

Also do you see fuel moving thru the fuel line when pulling the start and exhaust plugged? Also take out the plug and see if its lights up brightly.

Thats all I can think of now.

I had suggested leaning the low needle here : http://www.rcindia.org/fuel-and-engines/help-on-fuel!!-2681/msg25937/#msg25937, and I am under the impression that playing with needles (trial and error... something like going one turn either way on the high needle  and about half-a-turn either way on the low needle, both slowly at no more than 10 degrees at a time) have already been tried.

Ajo - Any comment on commonly used plugs in India, on fuel without any nitro ?

am also waiting for ajo's reply reg commonly used plugs on fuel without nitro

dear anwarji, ajo and rameshji thanx a ton. finally the engine purred to life 2day. as anwarji suggested, i got 3 ratings of os plug...OS A3, OS 8 & OS A5. I found my fasctory plug in the car rated as No.4. I fitted the OS 8 plug and tried starting. The engine fired finally.

Now for the next step....the engine stops abruptly!! now pls refer the photos i had posted earlier and tell me abt the high n low needle once again. whiuch one is which? and how to adjust?

i left teh glow for few seconds extra and gave a little throttle...the wheels rotated and car moved forward...as long as i press the throttle very very slowly the engine runs...but when i press the throttle suddenly or a lil harder the engine stops suddenly. pls guide how to rectify this. iam still running the OS 8 plus instead of the No.4 that came along with the car.

Ok ... here is the solution... check the pickup line clunk in the fuel tank... I am sure that either it has given way or has not been fitted properly, due to which your fuel is not getting picked up.... try this, I am sure it would work ...

Regards,
Divay ....

Great !  Another lesson for me too, in terms of using zero nitro fuel

Looks more like a needle tuning issue.  I am travelling, will try to point out the needles in the pictures and post how to tuning (if others don't beat me to it ). 

Most likely you are running too rich on the low needle, you need to lean it by closing it (turning it clockwise).

ok anwarji. thanx. i will try setting needles after u point them out in the pics. have a nice journey.

anwarji...ajo & rameshji pls one more help!! now the engine is running.as earlier pointed out in this post idling is unstable. but once the engine temp increases (few seconds after starting) it idles non stop. but after 5 min approx it stops abruptly, i feel the engine getting too hot. and i tried running the car slowly but even then after 5 min or so it stops!!

as mentioned in teh manual during idling i tried tightening thr main needle by 10 degree gradually, but once i do this...and try to re start the engine after it stops it does not start at this needle setting....i have to again turn the needle to 2 1/2 turns from fully clsoed as mentioned in factory standard setting, then teh engine starts!!

few additional info: iam presently running 82% methanol & 12 % castor oil. the factory glow plug was No.4...not iam using OS No.8 which is hotter...i tried starting with teh No.4 supplied with the car the engine fires as long as teh glow igniter is in position..once i remove it teh engine stops.

will the engine overheat if i use a hotter glow plug?

any suggestiones / remedy for above problems?

after checking in the net...

1) Is my engine running too lean (though the high speed needle is at 2 1/2 turns as per factory setting) because of rich setting of low speed needle?
2) I also observed bubbles in the fuel line, sometimes going into the carb.

The above 2 reasons might be the cause of engine overheating & stalling?

1. If you started at factory settings, there is no chance that you are running too lean.  Remember that low speed needle only affects the lower part of throttle, so you need to confirm at what throttle you feel the engine is running lean.  In any case, "rich" settings of any needle cannot cause "lean" runs !

2. Regarding bubbles, you have to look at how big/bad they are.  It is not unusually to have some bubbles in the tank.  But usually there should not be any in the line.  Check if your clunk line is hitting the bottom of the tank, so that it does not pick up and bubbles that are usually created in the tank due to vibration.

Some points/questions...

1.  You said you turned/leaned the high speed needle, what is the current setting ?  And what was the setting when the engine quit *possibly* due to overheating.

2.  Now you are in the break-in period of the engine.  Engine quitting is not unusual during the first tank or two.  Please continue to run it rich until the break in is over.  The first few tanks (2 to 5) are considered break-in runs, and have to be run on the richer side, with higher oil content.  You can expect the engine to misbehave (quit, stutter etc) a little bit for the first couple of tanks.  Do not put too much load on the engine for the first couple of tanks, especially running it at high throttle continuously for long periods.  Please read on break-in procedure on this forum and else where.

3.  Do not play with changing plugs, unless you have a valid reason.  Needle settings are tied to many things, one of them is the plug used.

This would indicate a lean idle mixture.

It could go both ways, in my experience. You really have to watch for the "type" of stopping.  Stopping on sudden throttle is mostly an indication of rich mixture.

From my personal experience, if the idle is lean, the engine will cut when the throttle is opened rapidly. If rich, it will stutter and then pick up.

Of course, this is assuming that the main needle is correctly set and the idle is not way out in either direction.

What I noticed is that when the idle is rich, too much fuel is pumped in, and seems to drown out the plug action on sudden throttle increase (up to mid point).  A weak plug adds to this situation.

The "pinch test" works very well to set the LSN correctly, so it is a simple matter in general.

anwarji, sushil ji...i was notable to start the engine sterday...got stuck in work. 2day morning i started it, it fired up in the first pull but then after 1 min it stopped abruptly!! the engine was too hot!! i tried starting it again after it cooled, to check and make adjustments to the needles as mentioned above. but it would not start.when i pulled the cord the cord came out and did not return inside. i thought may be the pull starter broke down. ultimately i opened up the starter and then the cylinder head...the engine has seized!! sorry guys. i felt very bad.

Wow  

Big questions...

1. At what throttle were you running at for that one minute ? 

2. Can you define siezed ? Was it only flooded so that it would not turn ? 

no anwarji by seized i dont mean flodded. i have dismantled the engine. the piston movement is arrested inside the cylinder liner.