RC India

Hi All!!

I am a newbie in RC world. I got a new GS Racing "Storm" Truck. I am in Andaman islands. Readymade fuel is not available here and nitro methane is also not available. Can I run the engine on Methanol & Castor oil only? May be in the ratio of 85% & 15%? Please advice!!

The engine should start and run without nitro.  But you may have performance issues in terms of racing speeds, and also possible issues with a smooth idle.

Among the RC crowd I have seen, it is the car folks who always thirsty for high nitro content (always 30% or higher).  I have had car folks come to me to exchange their regular CoolPower 30% fuel with my Cool Power "low smoke" heli 30% blend, because they were sometimes not able to see their cars in the smoke (a heli in the air would not have that problem).

People tend to use various percentages of castor, 18% is a common number when no nitro is used.

Thank u so much Anwar for ur guidance. I tried 85% methanol & 15% castor oil. But my engine wont start!! Any dieas what I should do next? I checked fuel lines...the fuel is entering the carb. I doubt the blow igniter. I think its battery may b weak!!

Please refer to this thread...  I am sorry that it is a bit long, but it covers all the things you need to check.

http://www.rcindia.org/fuel-and-engines/tip-dealing-with-a-glow-or-nitro-engine-that-refuses-to-start/

On a quick note, you need to check the glow plug (take it out and see if it glows with the ignitor, it could be the plug, or the ignitor charge), needle settings, throttle trim (1mm to 1.5mm open initially).  There are a bunch of other factors. Check for leaks, see if it starts by momentarily closing the muffler/exhaust (this pushes fuel into the carb due to pressure build up, but do not over do it), and so on and so forth.

Thank you onc eagain anwar for your reply and guidance. I hope with all ur help i'll be able to start it 2moro.

leave andmaan

Sorry Buddy!! Can't!! Born n brought up here. Beautiful place. Can't leave it just cos of a RC Car!!!!

Plus, many (or is it most?) other parts of India are just the same when it comes to nitro availability !

just joking man heads of       love  ur place  ,good answer

am also just kidding man!! anyways anwar I was unable to start the engine 2day also!! bad luck!! the glow igniter is fine...checked. fuel line is ok...checked & saw fuel coming into the carb. there r 2 screws(needle) for adjustment. a big one is just near the fuel entry point into the carb. the manual says factory standard is 2 and 1/2 turn anti clockwise from fully closed. i set it at that and another smaller screw below that, std adj is 0.8mm. i didnt adjust it!! my fuel is same...methanol 85% & castor oil 15%. any more suggestions?

Did you check how much of the barrel is open ?

by Barrel u mean what exactly? i removed the air filter pipe and took a peek inside the carb, then tried pulling the throttle in my remote. there was a barrel/piston kind if thing moving inside the carb and when i left the throttle it came back and there was a small gap i could c.may b 0.5 to 1mm.

You will see the barrel moving/rotating inside when you remove the air filter. As you open throttle, the air intake hole will grow in size.  There should be a close to 1.5mm opening initially.  You can try to start at a little bit more open throttle position.

In terms of other items to check, just follow the thread I mentioned above.  If anything mentioned there is not clear, please let us know.

Can you also post the model number of the engine and carb ?  Or post a picture of the carb ?  There are 3 different items to be tweaked on most engines... the low needle, the high needle and the idle set screw.

To see if it is fuel issues, you can drop a few drops of fuel into the carb barrel opening and see if it fires into life (but will die soon when the fuel runs out).

Anwar do u mean....drop a few drops of fuel into the carb barrel opening after removing the air filter...and then giving the engine a kick?

Yes. But a small quantity (few drops), so as to not flood the engine.

ok will try n get back to u

You should post some pictures of your engine too, in addition to trying the steps in the thread mentioned earlier.

Pictures allow us to ensure that your setup looks ok (like the muffler feedback line is connected and so on).

What kind of a starter are you using ? 

anwar pls ref following images. tried opening the throttle and letting in a few drops of fuel and then pulling the starting cord with the glow igniter attached to glow plug. but i couldnt c any fuel firing!! is the procedure followed by me correct? can u guide me reg the same with the pictures reference?
                  OVERALL VIEW
(http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/9628/84842847.jpg)

                   SCREW 1 GOLDEN COLOR?
(http://img806.imageshack.us/img806/603/68080261.jpg)

                      SCREW 2?
(http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/8905/46507335.jpg)

                      SCREW 3?
(http://img686.imageshack.us/img686/4589/90127800.jpg)

                       Normal Throttle...Not touching remote control!!  Is this the barrel u r talkin abt?
(http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/7831/17908437.jpg)

                       Half Open
(http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/2847/10572529.jpg)

                       Full Open
(http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/1800/31733085.jpg)

anwar sir you both can use skype it will help better and  its free :giggle:

i think it would b better if anwar sir comes to port blair!!  :help:

ya   wow

I am waiting for people like Ajo to look at the pictures and comment on car specifics.

ok sir will wait

BTW, you have correctly identified the barrel opening. It needs to be around 1.5mm open when you start.

In a quick inspection, the connections etc look good.

iam basically a marine engineer n work on large diesel engines in ships. but this tiny lil engine is getting on my nerves!! i know its quite simple but it wont start n i dont want to fiddle with the screws much

Hi Gopi I am not an expert in cars But, In your earlier post you have suggested that you are keeping the carb needle (big one) to two and a half turn from fully closed. Please try starting it from one and a half. Then increase slowly to two or more to break-in as instructed. Two and a half could be a very rich mix and may be you are not getting a burn without the nitro. Is it possible to give the engine make and model? I can check with my friends who are into driving. All the best.. :)

Manoj bhai - The big needle has pretty much no impact on the low end. 

This is one of those cases where you feel you were closer to the action.  A lot of times, it is the sight and sounds that tell us what the issue is, when it comes to glow engines.

Anwar Sir, my Car make is GS Racing, Storm Unlimited Truck. Engine Engine Model: R25MT. Ya its one of those situations, where physical presence would have been helpful!!!

100 % true. But I have noticed starting trouble with bigger needle opened more.  And I took advance bail stating “I am not an expert” in my post.  :) But did he tried reducing the needle setting ??

Notyet manoj bhai!! 2day evening i will reduce the needle setting to 1 1/2 turns and try.

Please also check the Glow starter and plug. Is it your first car ?

Some times the reason for not starting is simply cause the low end needly has been screwed in tooooooooo much, so do check that also. And do prime necely. would be good idea to start all over again with a new glow plug in place. if engine has been run-in, 2 and 1/2 turns of main need would be too much. safe bet would be 1 1/2. take the glow plug out if u have starting problem and check if it is dry or very very wet. that would give u a hint. and since u have taken the glow out, put the starter to the engine and when u turn see if large droplets of fuel get thrown out, definitely flooded, and also if u r getting a nice red glow. and now when u put ur glow back, better chances of firing immediately, dont forget to put the booster.
Ramesh Tahlan

If this is brand new engine (which I believe is the case), the low needle should be at the right place.  More often I have needed to lean it a bit for sustained idle.  Also 1.5 turns on an engine that has NOT been broken in would be too lean to start with.

It also depends on the familiarity of the person with glow equipment in general, and how thoroughly the suggestions are followed upon.  For example, going back to the basics, I asked to check the glow plug and ignitor, and the response was that it was "all good".  HOW was it determined ?  This question may be borderline insulting to someone who has glow experience, but extremely crucial (and even the solution to the problem) for a beginner in glows :)

hi ramesh. i dont have a spare glow. this is my first car. i removed the glow n connected it to the glow igniter. the filament became red. this was the way i checked the glow. anwarji is there any other way i can check this? i really feel so out of all u guys league!!
 rameshji after removing the glow, u say to pull the starting cord and check if fuel is thrown into the cylinder right? ok will do that again!! fuel is to be thrown on top of the piston\, am i correct? and if i dont c fuel thrown into the cyl head what adj should i try?

If you remove the plug ang pull the starter the fuel will spray out. So keep your eyes away from it. Your way of checking the glow is correct.

sorry anwarji if i hav offended u unknowlingly!! i checked the glow by removing it from the cyl head and attaching it to the igniter(a lighter kind of thing with a single C LR14 battery...correct?)the filament turned red. further suggestions pls? did i use the correct technique to chk the glow?

Not at all, and please accept my apologies if sounded so :)  I was just expressing a bit of frustration about not being able to help from remote :)  Also making sure that these diagnostics are to be taken literally and seriously, as simple misses can be difference between success and failure.

And your method of checking the glow is correct.

Gopi,
when u remove the glow plug, and operate the starter, then what happens is that if there was flooding, the excess fuel gets thrown out and u will see it. But when u removed the plug, was it very wet or was it dry. The next step will be decided on the condition of the plug. if it was dry, then u r not priming enough, and fuel is not entering the carb properly.
Rameh

ok guys i noticed something...sorry i missed out on this. after removing glow plug....i pull the starter cord.....no flooding in combustion chamber or no splashing of fuel!! wat to do?

ok, in all probability, adequate fuel is not going in, so for the time being, remove the air filter on the carb, now choke it with ur finger, and pull the starter 3 or 4 times, and see if u can see the fuel in the fuel line rushing to the carb. but do it after u have put the glow plug back. put the booster, and it should fire

Here is where the symptoms/details get interesting :)  And Gopi, please bear with us as this is taken step by step.

1. You should not expect a big spurt in fuel through the plug hole unless the engine was previously flooded.  But you should be able to see some droplets flying out all the time, if you throttle is not fully closed. In short, "flooding" or "big splashing" is not the normal expectation !

2. Your comment from before (quoted below) gets interesting in this case. I assume you saw fuel moving in the fuel line towards the carb, and that is why you made the comment.  But if there is no fuel AT ALL that is exiting the engine through the plug hole, that would be contradictory to the observation below.


Just wanted to reiterate that attention to detail is extremely important :)

This situation of "fuel not entering the carb" should have been ruled out by the "dropping a tiny bit of fuel though the barrel opening" test done earlier.  So I am not sure if this is a "fuel not entering the carb" issue at all.

ANwar sorry for the contradictory statement!! Previously i had done a silly mistake.....i tried blowing into the air line going in from the exhaust muffler to the fuel tank..thus pressurising the line forcefully....n i could c fuel drops coming into the carb barrel ( i had removed the air filter) and overflowing!! but today i tried just kick starting the engine n couldnt c fuel comint into the carb n fillign up even after repeated strokes to starter!!

Pls bear with me!! Its more frustrating coz theres no one here who has a nitro rc....so nobody in location to help me out!! its all bcomin trial n error now!! :banghead:

ANwarji pehle to aap bataiye....steps to start teh engine!!!

If all fuel lines, etc r ok....

1) Put Glow igniter in glow plug.
2) Pull the starting cord.

am i correct?

Guess it is good to list the steps :)  I am not a car person, so I will make a best guess for cars, as nitro engines are nitro engines !

1.  Fuel in the tank, lines connected OK.
2.  Make sure barrel is not fully closed (the 1.5mm thing we have have been talking about).  Make sure needles are appropriate (defaults).
3.  Remove ignitor, pull starting cord couple of times to see if the fuel is coming up into the carb.  If fuel is not being pulled up, choke the engine by either putting the thumb against the carb opening OR blocking the muffler outlet with the thumb.  We need to get fuel moving into the carb, this step is called "priming".
4.  Connect the ignitor, and pull the starting cord.  Try slightly different throttle settings and/or block the muffler to force fuel for a seconds, if the engine does not start.

This is about what I can think of for a normal starting procedure. Remember that repeated use of the ignitor will deplete its battery, so you need to remember to charge it if you have been using it for a while.

ok anwar....when i try priming if fuel is not entering carb....wat to do

Then you have to check the needle settings, especially the low needle. The barrel opening is also important.

In rare cases (should not be the case for new engines), it could be dirt in the carb, and so on.

Strangely enough, I feel its the other way around! The high end has SOME effect on the low end. In fact, varying it on idle can give you a good indication of which way to go , on the idle screw, for a good idle. The idle setting has very little, or zero effect on the high end.

My wording is the confusion... the "pretty much" did not convey that the impact is small enough (as compared to even small changes in the low needle itself). 

And your comment on what affects what is accurate.

(http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/2236/150720100771.jpg)

anwarji...checked all items 1 by 1 patiently....disconnected n attadched pipelines again...fuel flow to carb bcame normal!! i removed the air filter...then pulled throttle back...so barrel moved back...n then pulled kick start cord....fuel started splashing in carb....checked glow again...red hot!! now i have a doubt in my methanol also....attached pic....85% methanoil and 15% castor is it ok? i men the methanol iam using?

Here is where my lack of any significant experience with home brew fuel shows up :(  Hopefully others can pitch in and recognize this particular brand/type.

I hope you have tried starting at different throttle settings and have also tried starting with the exhaust blocked.

Gopi,
nothing wrong with ur menthnol, but ur 15% castroil needs to be 18 to 20 %. Just make sure ur throttle is not totally at idle, the barrel should be 1/4 open, and try again. There is just some very minor thing that u r overlooking. thats all.
Anwar - i have not touched nitro in last 40 years of modelling, be it planes, heli. cars, boats,  and have not found any engine give trouble. Even my Saito 100 4 stroke behaves on just methnol and castor oil. It is always the human factor. Send me a engine that does not start, and i will  make it start.
I have seen guys struggle with os 46, 75, 91 on the field for hours. without fail it took me precisely a minute to bring it to life. I always say, if u having trouble starting OS engines, the troube is with the humanbieng, not the engine, lol.
Ramesh.

Ramesh i agree. there is something iam missing. wat frustrates me more is that this engine being so simple in construction is getting on my nerves!! anyways i will try with a 80% 20% mix today with 1/4th throttle open. any ideas where i can get a glow plug for this engine....my engine is GS Racing R25MT.

any more suggestions in needle settings? i found 2 screws that can b adjusted.

Gopi,
can u send me images of the carb, taken from left and right side, and as close as u can get without going out of focus. i want to see ur needles, main and idle. I am in delhi and u appear to at Pt Blair, we could video conference of try and solve by pics hopefully, i also want a pic of how much carb u r opening for a start. also give me a link from where i can download the manual for the engine.
Ramesh

rameshji i have posted both the screw pics in 1st page. pls check

remeshji only images screw 1 & screw 2 r correct. screw 3 is not for adjustment i put it up i mistake. its is a screw n nut for clamping the engne block.

OK great, saw that, now i need the manual link on the net, or u scan it and send to rameshtahlan@yahoo.co.in
and by the way, i have sorted out starting and tuning problem from delhi, to guys on the field at allahabad (Vibhu) and Pune (Vivek) for 2 and 4 stroke, hahaha, its unimaginable.  but dont worry, nothing is impossible. Now give me the manual.
Ramesh

Gopi,
do u use skype ??? we can talk live, but need manual first, or at least that part of the manual where it talks of needles and starting and tuning and running. (i think i left out the covers only)
Ramesh

yes rameshji....the link iam trying there is some error...i will scan teh necessary pages n send it to u after lunch. do u have a bsnl 3G connection?

i have a airtel broad band for my internet, unlimited download.
Ramesh.

no no i mean..i have bsnl 3g...it is easier to video conference with the phone...i can have it near the car...coz i dont have a laptop n webcam...only bband connection in a desktop

gopi,
sorry man, no 3G phone in my pocket as yet.
Ramesh

ramesh pls chk ur mail. sent scanned pages of manual.

Gopi,
Waiting , now come as yet.
Ramesh

got it?

yes Reading it.
Ramesh

Gopi.
Have read the manual, now make sure u main needle is 2 1/2 turns open from fully closed. on the other side, there is a screw head visible, it should be .8 to 1 mm form the surface of its collar, just check that again. open throttle till the carb is open about 1 to 2 mm, block the exhaust with ur finger, and pull starter 3 to 4 times, depending on ur fuel tube material, u should see fuel being rushed to carb, now put booster, and pull 4 to 5 times, she should fire.

Rameshji....i checked n tried the above steps but nothing happened...if i keep pulling the cord for sometime...later if i turn the car upside down, unburnt fuel n oil drips out of the exhaust

Gopi,
can u see the fuel being sucked to the carb. ok, one more stunt, just put a few drops of  fuel (half tea spoon) directly into the carb opening, and fire. also u still have not told, if after all this, when u take out the glow plug, is it dry or wet or really wet.
Ramesh

rameshji i would say the glow plug is wet...not very wet...i will try the 1/2 tea spoon fuel stunt 2day evening.

at times due to trying for a long time, a lot of castor oil gets accumulated inside the engine.. so. remove the glow, invert the car, and pull starter  a few times, before u attempt again anything.
Ramesh Tahlan

rameshji sorry...tried all the steps patiently.....still no results!! i think i will go into depression  :help: :banghead:

only option left is to ship it to me, hahaha
Regards
Ramesh Tahlan.

Since fuel flow has been confirmed, the suspect is the fuel itself ?  Nobody here can comment on the methanol used (looking at the picture of the fuel can posted earlier) ?

Was this fuel picked up from any RC related source ?

anwar.....methanol not from a rc related source!! i got it from a store which supplies chemicals to schools n colleges for labs. no rc stores in andamans!!

can u help me reg where i can get a new glow plug?

Since you are using no nitro, a hotter plug would be better.  The OS A3 is one, or you can OS #8.  These are available in many shops, I saw them at rotor.co.in.

Suggestions from others (especially car folks) solicited.

anwarji wats the difference between OS A3 & OS #8. one is more hotter than other? and these glow plugs are universal size? i mean they will fit into my car & other brans cars also?

The A3 is hotter than the #8.  But I am not sure sure what the common brands and models of plugs are used by car guys in India. 

The 2 strokes plugs should all be similar (from what I have seen), and they can be used across all engines (bearing in mind the "heat" factor).  The 4 stroke ones are longer.

ok thanx. AS3 is for a 2 stroke? i think i will order 1 from rotor.co.in

Please wait till someone like Ajo (mail4ajo) comments.  Yes, the ones I mentioned are 2 stroke plugs.

Also, I remembered one thing about how you connected the fuel lines.  In the picture below of your car :

(http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/9628/84842847.jpg)

The feedback from the muffler COULD be reversed.  Make sure the tube that goes into the carb from the tank is connected to the fuel port on the tank that has the clunk line.  I remember seeing tanks that have the connection from the muffler going to the side port of the tank and the port on the top is the one that feeds the carb.

Just verify this also.

For an example, see this video of how to prime and start.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-arymGvYdA

anwar thank u so much for the video. it helped me a lot in understading the steps correctly. anyways wats happeninwith me is .....till the guy in the video primes n then pulls the starter after priming...it all happens exactly same as with me here also...but after the guy fits in the glow plug igniter n pulls teh cord the engine comes to life in 3-4 pulls....for me it never comes...now i think we have just one thing left.....oooo god i missed out to tell u 1 thing....my car was with my cousin in coimbatore. he had bought it there and used nitro fuel initially...he says he ran the car...for 3 tanks of fuel...after that i brought it to port b lair...no nitro fuel available here so i had to mix methanol n castor oil...so i think now teh problem is with teh fuel not getting ignited by glow plug...may b as u suggested i should go for a hotter plug!!

The idle at 1.5mm seems to be ok. Why dont you lean a bit more on low end needle and try. I have always noticed that factory settings are way too rich for our conditions.

Also do you see fuel moving thru the fuel line when pulling the start and exhaust plugged? Also take out the plug and see if its lights up brightly.

Thats all I can think of now.

I had suggested leaning the low needle here : http://www.rcindia.org/fuel-and-engines/help-on-fuel!!-2681/msg25937/#msg25937 (http://www.rcindia.org/fuel-and-engines/help-on-fuel!!-2681/msg25937/#msg25937), and I am under the impression that playing with needles (trial and error... something like going one turn either way on the high needle  and about half-a-turn either way on the low needle, both slowly at no more than 10 degrees at a time) have already been tried.

Ajo - Any comment on commonly used plugs in India, on fuel without any nitro ?

am also waiting for ajo's reply reg commonly used plugs on fuel without nitro

dear anwarji, ajo and rameshji thanx a ton. finally the engine purred to life 2day. as anwarji suggested, i got 3 ratings of os plug...OS A3, OS 8 & OS A5. I found my fasctory plug in the car rated as No.4. I fitted the OS 8 plug and tried starting. The engine fired finally.

Now for the next step....the engine stops abruptly!! now pls refer the photos i had posted earlier and tell me abt the high n low needle once again. whiuch one is which? and how to adjust?

i left teh glow for few seconds extra and gave a little throttle...the wheels rotated and car moved forward...as long as i press the throttle very very slowly the engine runs...but when i press the throttle suddenly or a lil harder the engine stops suddenly. pls guide how to rectify this. iam still running the OS 8 plus instead of the No.4 that came along with the car.

Ok ... here is the solution... check the pickup line clunk in the fuel tank... I am sure that either it has given way or has not been fitted properly, due to which your fuel is not getting picked up.... try this, I am sure it would work ...

Regards,
Divay ....

Great !  Another lesson for me too, in terms of using zero nitro fuel :thumbsup:

Looks more like a needle tuning issue.  I am travelling, will try to point out the needles in the pictures and post how to tuning (if others don't beat me to it ;)). 

Most likely you are running too rich on the low needle, you need to lean it by closing it (turning it clockwise).

ok anwarji. thanx. i will try setting needles after u point them out in the pics. have a nice journey.

anwarji...ajo & rameshji pls one more help!! now the engine is running.as earlier pointed out in this post idling is unstable. but once the engine temp increases (few seconds after starting) it idles non stop. but after 5 min approx it stops abruptly, i feel the engine getting too hot. and i tried running the car slowly but even then after 5 min or so it stops!!

as mentioned in teh manual during idling i tried tightening thr main needle by 10 degree gradually, but once i do this...and try to re start the engine after it stops it does not start at this needle setting....i have to again turn the needle to 2 1/2 turns from fully clsoed as mentioned in factory standard setting, then teh engine starts!!

few additional info: iam presently running 82% methanol & 12 % castor oil. the factory glow plug was No.4...not iam using OS No.8 which is hotter...i tried starting with teh No.4 supplied with the car the engine fires as long as teh glow igniter is in position..once i remove it teh engine stops.

will the engine overheat if i use a hotter glow plug?

any suggestiones / remedy for above problems?

after checking in the net...

1) Is my engine running too lean (though the high speed needle is at 2 1/2 turns as per factory setting) because of rich setting of low speed needle?
2) I also observed bubbles in the fuel line, sometimes going into the carb.

The above 2 reasons might be the cause of engine overheating & stalling?

1. If you started at factory settings, there is no chance that you are running too lean.  Remember that low speed needle only affects the lower part of throttle, so you need to confirm at what throttle you feel the engine is running lean.  In any case, "rich" settings of any needle cannot cause "lean" runs !

2. Regarding bubbles, you have to look at how big/bad they are.  It is not unusually to have some bubbles in the tank.  But usually there should not be any in the line.  Check if your clunk line is hitting the bottom of the tank, so that it does not pick up and bubbles that are usually created in the tank due to vibration.

Some points/questions...

1.  You said you turned/leaned the high speed needle, what is the current setting ?  And what was the setting when the engine quit *possibly* due to overheating.

2.  Now you are in the break-in period of the engine.  Engine quitting is not unusual during the first tank or two.  Please continue to run it rich until the break in is over.  The first few tanks (2 to 5) are considered break-in runs, and have to be run on the richer side, with higher oil content.  You can expect the engine to misbehave (quit, stutter etc) a little bit for the first couple of tanks.  Do not put too much load on the engine for the first couple of tanks, especially running it at high throttle continuously for long periods.  Please read on break-in procedure on this forum and else where.

3.  Do not play with changing plugs, unless you have a valid reason.  Needle settings are tied to many things, one of them is the plug used.

This would indicate a lean idle mixture.

It could go both ways, in my experience. You really have to watch for the "type" of stopping.  Stopping on sudden throttle is mostly an indication of rich mixture.

From my personal experience, if the idle is lean, the engine will cut when the throttle is opened rapidly. If rich, it will stutter and then pick up.

Of course, this is assuming that the main needle is correctly set and the idle is not way out in either direction.

What I noticed is that when the idle is rich, too much fuel is pumped in, and seems to drown out the plug action on sudden throttle increase (up to mid point).  A weak plug adds to this situation.

The "pinch test" works very well to set the LSN correctly, so it is a simple matter in general.

anwarji, sushil ji...i was notable to start the engine sterday...got stuck in work. 2day morning i started it, it fired up in the first pull but then after 1 min it stopped abruptly!! the engine was too hot!! i tried starting it again after it cooled, to check and make adjustments to the needles as mentioned above. but it would not start.when i pulled the cord the cord came out and did not return inside. i thought may be the pull starter broke down. ultimately i opened up the starter and then the cylinder head...the engine has seized!! sorry guys. i felt very bad.

Wow :( 

Big questions...

1. At what throttle were you running at for that one minute ? 

2. Can you define siezed ? Was it only flooded so that it would not turn ? 

no anwarji by seized i dont mean flodded. i have dismantled the engine. the piston movement is arrested inside the cylinder liner.

What about the first part... what throttle were you running it at for the one minute ?  Was it always at mid to high ?  Or was it idling all the time (or most of the time) ?

Basically, if it overheated, we need to know which needle setting caused it. That is why these questions are important :)

Hi anwar. I understand.

1) The High speed needle...the one near fuel entrance into carb...it was at 2 1/2 turn anticlockwise, from fully closed, as recommended by factory setting. When i tried to lean it by tightening by 1/4th turn, next time the engine wouldnt start unless i brought it back to 2 1/4 ~ 2 1/2 turns.

2) The low speed needle was untouched on the day the engine started, but when it started stopping abruptly...on the 2nd day morning i tightened it by 10 degrees approx, not more.

3) no adjustment to idling screw.

the idle was at normal... i mean.... hands off the throttle

Sorry for asking the same question again.  So you started it, and left it in idle (hands off the throttle lever) for 1 minutes, and it died ?

yes anwarji...right...then i let it cool dwn nd tried to start it again..but the cord just came out n didnt rewind itself.

Ok, if heat related to needle settings is what caused this (I am not sure that it is), then the low needle may be too lean. 

Your oil content is questionable, it was only 12% when this happened, right ?  It was suggested earlier that you use more oil for the break-in phase.

no not 12% anwarji..methanol 82% & castor oil 18%

Ther 12% oil in this post http://www.rcindia.org/fuel-and-engines/help-on-fuel!!-2681/msg26413/#msg26413 confused me. 

A 10 degree turn from factory settings should not cause this, wonder if factory settings for low needle was indeed what it was started on.  I do feel bad about not suggesting the pinch test earlier, but then it was not clear from your messages at what throttle range you were testing it.

Is it better after cooling down, or do you have to change the rings (and possibly other parts) ?