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« on: December 02, 2013, 01:52:42 PM »
tushar112
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I am sorry i didn't clicked pics when i was building the model so i don't have much of built pics.. Smiley
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IMG_20131025_124948.jpg
My first built - coro cub piper
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« Reply #1 on: December 02, 2013, 02:02:29 PM »
rcrcnitesh
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which coro did you use
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« Reply #2 on: December 02, 2013, 02:04:12 PM »
manojswizera
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Great Tushar,  Thumbs Up
Can you please elaborate the wings. Technique to Build.
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« Reply #3 on: December 02, 2013, 02:27:06 PM »
tushar112
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Model is ready, electronics left Grin

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Re: My first built - coro cub piper
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« Reply #4 on: December 02, 2013, 02:31:23 PM »
tushar112
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i used 4mm coro for fuse and 2mm for the upper cover of the wing.. @ rcnitesh
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« Reply #5 on: December 02, 2013, 02:32:28 PM »
rastsaurabh
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real good finish.....did you use any plan Huh?? or just your imagination design....
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« Reply #6 on: December 02, 2013, 02:34:22 PM »
rcrcnitesh
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the plans are from here if I am not wrong http://spadtothebone.net/SPAD/corocub/Corocub_1.htm
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1959141
awesome built superb painting are you building it as your first ever model to fly
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« Reply #7 on: December 02, 2013, 03:03:16 PM »
tushar112
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Thanks @ swizera, rcnitesh and rastsaurabh.  Grin

For wing i used 5 mm wooden margin ( sandwiched between 4mm coro for lower panel and 2mm coro for upper panel.
for more use the plan mentioned below by rcnitesh which i used it for the whole const.
yes, rcnitesh i used the same plan  Smiley and yes this is my first ever model.. Giggle

Regards,
tushar 
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« Reply #8 on: December 02, 2013, 03:07:01 PM »
rcrcnitesh
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You should add a Dihideral to it or else you will face difficulties read the RCG thread fully
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« Reply #9 on: December 02, 2013, 03:41:30 PM »
rastsaurabh
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1. It is yellow tape not paint.
2. Piper does not have dihedral on wings traditionally
3. wheels look too heavy for the model. Although they are looking good.
4. add a corro doubler at the points like - nose , motor firewall, where wings rest on fuse
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« Reply #10 on: December 02, 2013, 05:13:44 PM »
tushar112
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yes this is vinyl which i used instead of paint.
i know wheels look odd but this is what i got at my home ( wheels are from children pram ) Giggle i will replace them when i will get them from somewhere. Grin
As pes your suggestion, i will definitely add coro doubler at these points, i really appreciate your help and suggestions. @saurabh Hats Off
 
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« Reply #11 on: December 02, 2013, 07:56:15 PM »
sanjayrai55
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Tushar, many congratulations on a very, very good looking model!

What are the specs; wingspan, airframe weight, expected AUW (flying weight), Length.

Good luck for the maiden, waiting for the video Cheesy
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« Reply #12 on: December 02, 2013, 10:23:35 PM »
theleabres
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I have built about 10 Piper Cubs (GWS, Hobbyking models and one scratch built) amd experimented with dihedral variations.  My latest GWS Cub Slow Flyer has very little dihedral and takes several turns even 30 seconds sometime to fullt "self correct" and fly level.   It just de[pends on what you're comfortable with.

To do a short cut, get a chuck or throw glider and convert it to RC such as I did here by adding simple cardboard pieces for ailerons and rudder:



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« Reply #13 on: December 02, 2013, 10:45:08 PM »
tushar112
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converting glider into rc plane, video seems soo nice Clap Clap great job @theleabers
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« Reply #14 on: December 02, 2013, 10:51:53 PM »
tushar112
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special thanks to @sanjay sir Smiley all done by following your posts Grin and thanks for all your helps Salute

wingspan - 76"
length  -   47"
weight - still not weigh the model update tomorrow
engine - planing to order asp .61 from rc dhamaka
 
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« Reply #15 on: December 03, 2013, 09:48:44 AM »
sanjayrai55
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Tushar - this is good news! For a moment I thought you you were making the 36" park flyer version  Grin

I suggest take a look at a 55. I have an OS 55AX, nearly the power of a 60, but mounting dimensions the same as a 46. So it can be used in most 40 size models.

I think ASP has an equivalent too

All the best  Good job
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« Reply #16 on: December 03, 2013, 10:14:30 AM »
rastsaurabh
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you will need to strengthen at lot more places to make this air frame for Engined flight....
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« Reply #17 on: December 03, 2013, 10:31:53 AM »
sanjayrai55
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If the Spadtothebone build is followed, it should be good enough
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« Reply #18 on: December 03, 2013, 02:34:47 PM »
tushar112
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but sir os engines are expensive thats why i am going to asp  Angry Grin
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« Reply #19 on: December 03, 2013, 03:25:29 PM »
sanjayrai55
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Re:

I said...ASP has a 55 equivalent
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« Reply #20 on: December 03, 2013, 05:56:26 PM »
sanjayrai55
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Check the ASP 52. The main advantage is the higher torque means it can swing a larger prop Cheesy
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« Reply #21 on: December 03, 2013, 08:04:37 PM »
tushar112
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Got it sir Thumbs Up ASP 61 suggested prop - 11x6 whether ASP 52 can spin 12x6
thankyou so much for the great suggestion Hats Off 
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« Reply #22 on: December 04, 2013, 11:29:31 AM »
iwincar
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This tape really gives a model solid strength...
how did you manage to get a clean finish on the tape rapping?
Is there any direction lines you followed while taping specific parts. Like we choose coro flute directions in using wing or fuse,tail ..eg verticals horizontal etc
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« Reply #23 on: December 04, 2013, 12:01:33 PM »
sanjayrai55
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Good point there iwincar. I've only used vinyl for trims and decoration, so no problem. Tushar: any tips??
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« Reply #24 on: December 04, 2013, 02:30:51 PM »
tushar112
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sir, i just cut oversize piece of vinyl (i.e if the fuse is 20"x 6" i cut 25"x 9"). Then i totally peeled the paper out of vinyl, paste on first end point and started pressing the vinyl from first end point to second, cut the extra part of vinyl.
I used paper pin to puncher the air bubble in the pasted vinyl and pressed it so air can come out for perfect finish.

If u got long wrinkle while pasting, make a long cut at upper most part or the wrinkle and press both sides so can overlap. That's what i did.
   

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Re: My first built - coro cub piper
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