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« Reply #25 on: October 12, 2011, 08:54:06 AM »
sundaram
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Great going Ujjwal,

More and more I read through your thread, I think the INS Virat and Ranvijay kit which I bought from VC is going to now become flying models for my Cox 0.049 and Thunder Tiger 0.07  Giggle.

I am getting deeply inspired.  Thumbs Up
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« Reply #26 on: October 12, 2011, 09:23:30 AM »
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INS Virat and Ranvijay will be all Cox, you mean Giggle Giggle 

sorry couldnt resist
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« Reply #27 on: October 12, 2011, 09:31:29 AM »
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No Gusty all flying models with wings and all with some more balsa sheets lying with me. Since yesterday I have been seeing the Kits again and again, the firewalls of the ship can be easily converted to firewalls of a plane and with all the spar and decking can be converted to a plane. Since yesterday itching to go ahead with the idea.  Giggle   Giggle
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« Reply #28 on: October 12, 2011, 09:38:11 AM »
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Keep it coming Johny
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« Reply #29 on: October 12, 2011, 10:27:00 AM »
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Ujjwaana,
The finished model in the first post seems to have a flat bottom, but the construction states otherwise. Pl explain.

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« Reply #30 on: October 12, 2011, 11:45:07 AM »
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Ujjwal, I would like to call "Che-Guevara" of RC world at least for his efforts in bringing in new techniques, he is eveready to learn and help, he is like a fusion music, combines new and old technics.

Excuse me if my post sounds bit sycophantic but it's truth (and who says truth is always bitter, see it's quite sweet).


Don't worry you will get a designer outfitter for you planes, but do you really need one.

All the Best
 
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« Reply #31 on: October 12, 2011, 03:53:02 PM »
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great Work! Your work has made me speechless, have really long way to go in d beginner zone i guess. But one question is bothering me how much time do you spent in Aeromodeling every day? My daily routine doesn't allow me even 15 min surfing on rcindia Sad ;(
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« Reply #32 on: October 13, 2011, 12:11:26 PM »
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@sundaramvelar  Sir! You are baffeling me!
@Gusty sir: flyers like you are always the inspiration.
@Pankaj sir: You are correct. The pictures in my first post ate that of 'AMP Master Jr', an EP Plane. My thread would be probably the first build thread of AMP 015 on any forum across the globe.

@Mandar: You are humbling me. You dont have any idea what kind of great builder like Deepak Sir, Sanjeev, Sharath Malve, Kumar, Sharad 'R C' , Pradeep I brush shoulder with on sundays... long way to go for me as well... Well I almost spend 2-3 hrs of my daily time in aeromodeling. I wont call myself a good flyer as many others in my field also suggest, but I prefer doing bit of everything, including building which main activity in 'Aero-Modeling'. I spend reading, bit of re-designing (as a step towards a complete scratch designing one day), building and flying on weekends. I also try to help others in my capacity, which sometime becomes rude to others... I dont care...

Coming back to business, lets see how we bend Ply/Balsa for pasting over curved surface. My method is amalgamation of what I learnt from Net, Sanjeev, Sharath and Sharad.

Force-Pasting timber over curved surface by attaching clamps till the glue cures would leave a continues shear force between the ply and the adhesive, resulting in deformation of the surface or even failure of the join.
The wood fibers should be tendered before bending them. This could be done by soaking into plain water (spray, don't dip it), spraying dilute solution of Ammonia for quick result or soaking it by steam from kettle/nasal vaporizer. After soaking the wood by one of the method, leave the wood for 10-15 minutes so the soaking is uniform, and slowly bend the wood over the curved surface with help of clamps and/or pins.

There is another caveat in this process. Dont paste the wet timber !! you would end up with similar problem of not following this process at all. When wet, the wood fibers gets tender and elongated. If you paste them while wet, they would again exert shear force on the other surface after drying. The trick is, dont apply any glue on the wood while you clamp it. Clamp it as if 'Dry fitting', and let it dry overnight (using fan can quicken the process if doing during day time). once dry, the ply would take 70-80% fit shape, rest would exert negligible force. So, once you get the dry, curved surface, apply glue on both surfaces, wait for a while and clamp them together again.
Presto!!!

Clamped1.jpg
Clamped1.jpg
          The ply wet with Easy-of-Bang which contains some ammonia. Clamped with F-Clamps and long drawing pins.

Dried Panel1.JPG
         Panel free from clamps after drying. See the curve shape it has taken

Pasted panel.JPG
         Panel finally pasted with glue.


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« Reply #33 on: October 13, 2011, 12:17:19 PM »
PankajC
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Excellent approach...Finish is superb
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« Reply #34 on: October 13, 2011, 05:05:49 PM »
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FLY HIGH...!!!



a perfect build LOG..
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« Reply #35 on: October 13, 2011, 06:21:20 PM »
ujjwaana
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a perfect build LOG..
You got to see this:
http://www.rcindia.org/gas-glow-nitro-planes/gloster-gamecock-latest-project/
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« Reply #36 on: October 13, 2011, 08:06:11 PM »
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wow!!!!

i really  Bow to u !!!!!

so much patience.... and precision.....its really amazing !!!!!

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« Reply #37 on: October 13, 2011, 08:35:19 PM »
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Johny, gamecock is kit, yours is scratch  , two different league altogether +1 with Krish
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« Reply #38 on: October 14, 2011, 01:21:00 AM »
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Gusty sir, now I cannot stop taking it as an encouraging compliment (as I started a parallel build of another Balsa EP Bird)

Next come the the Tail and Fin.

Nothing much to explain here. I have taken the strategy of using Spruce instead of balsa in the load bearing edges.


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« Reply #39 on: October 14, 2011, 01:23:48 AM »
ujjwaana
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I am sharing the PDFs for the Fuse and the Left/Right Wings layout. The fuse is in 1:1 , unlike the original plan, and I have also done some translation to English.

<Anwar, please attach the Fuselage PDF  I sent you. It was crossing the 190KB limit, so couldn't attach it here>

[Admin Note] Attached below.

http://www.rcindia.org/myfiles/FuseAssembly26x39.pdf

Note: There is an annotation in the above PDF stating "Fuselage in scale 1:2" . This is copy - paste errata. I have put the Fuse in 1:1 scale.

* Wing Assembly (25x25).pdf (179.67 KB - downloaded 599 times.)
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« Reply #40 on: November 08, 2011, 09:56:32 AM »
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Any progress after Oct 14th?
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« Reply #41 on: November 08, 2011, 08:20:02 PM »
ujjwaana
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Hi Pankaj Sir,
Thanks for being the Night Watchman (like in Cricket) ...

I was more busy with Shadman's Madness-2 (same state like AMP 15), Katana MD of mine and loads of office work (and yes! started modifying Calmato 40 Sports CNC files too).

I have not yet completed the work - Wing is complete but needs covering.
Fuse almost done, but needs Dowel plate, Landing gear plate , Wing bolt plate , linkage etc done.

Would post the Wing assemble pics today.
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« Reply #42 on: November 08, 2011, 09:27:02 PM »
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well actually my interest stems from the fact that there are very few good build logs in this forum. most of the work that people post are more of an afterthought. So I am not going to miss an opportunity like this.
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« Reply #43 on: November 08, 2011, 11:20:52 PM »
ujjwaana
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Well then gather more people to keep the spirit of people like me high. More than encouragement, I hear people lamenting my 'Slow Build'. Soon you would see the logs for Katana, Madness-2, and Calmato 40 Sports.

Bill of material:

A. 2x Wing Tip rib (3mm Ply)
B. 2x Wing Root rib (3mm Ply)
C. 14x Remaining Wing ribs : 3mm Balsa
D. 2x  Spruce spar for center Spar = 6x6mmx48 inch
E. 2x  Silver Pine  Spar for trailing edge : 6x6mmx36inch
F. 2x Balsa Leading Edge 36inch
G. 2x Balsa Trailing edge 36 inch.

IMP: The wing is made of a single 48 inch central spar, thus the slight dihedral is given by the position of the spar notches.
For this reason the wing is built up-side down with the 6x6mm trailing edge to be fitted later used as 'Zig' to set the slope on the ribs. The upper trailing edge of the tip rib should be  6mm high (that of the spruce) and the root bib at 12mm (6x6mm Spurce on a 6mm ply etc).

The tons of white Wing Rib 90 degree zig in the photos are home made using 2.5mm Acrylic sheets, cut on Laser cutter. The plan was to use 3mm ply, but the Veneer ply I took could not be cut using laser, thus used Acrylic. I have the plan for the same as well.
 

 



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« Reply #44 on: November 09, 2011, 10:11:49 AM »
PankajC
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must be a good thing to have a laser cutter at your disposal....
Coming on neatly.
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« Reply #45 on: March 05, 2012, 01:43:50 PM »
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Ujjwaana,
Please don't leave the log half finished.... Are you still at it?
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« Reply #46 on: March 05, 2012, 04:16:38 PM »
ujjwaana
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To become a 'Lazy Builder' with the first Balsa build is quite a thing!! Well I started this last year Feb-March timeline and it is now in almost 'Ready to Cover' condition, with some fireproofing, and control linkage lines to be laid. In this meanwhile, I put my hands on Three more planes (4, if you consider Shadman's Madness-2). Mini Katana EP is still in 60% stage, Wing cap-striping and sheeting to done, empennage  to be made and covering. I started Calmato 40 Sports late Dec last year and it is almost in AMP 015 stage - waiting covering.
The fastest build has been that of 'Bonsai DLG Glider' (Decker.De clone), which is again nearing covering stage, in just over 10 days of lazy work.

Anyway, updating the AMP 015 build pics.

Pic 1:
Both side of the Wing Ribs pasted.

Pic 2:
Shear Webbing being 'Press Pasted'. Please note that the grain in balsa strips used for shear webbing is always vertical and you cut a length 2-3 mm longer than the distance between the ribs. You 'Press-paste' the ribs by applying glue at the contact point and using small scrap Ply/balsa over the webbing and pressed with strong clips/clamps to flatten them over the spruce.

Pic 3:
Shear Webbing after drying.

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« Reply #47 on: March 05, 2012, 04:46:44 PM »
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Pic 1:
Cutting Hinge Slot in the trailing edge with Dubro Hinging tool

Pic 2:
 Hinge Slot cut

Pic 3:
Checking if Torque Rods Hinges go into the slot.



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« Reply #48 on: March 05, 2012, 04:52:54 PM »
ujjwaana
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Pic 1
Trailing Edge prepped for gluing. Please Note that I have cut slots for a 'Mid Spar' spanning across few riibs towards the root for additional strength. This was not in the plan

Pic 2
The trailing edge spar glued and fixed with clamps (I just love these clamps. Wish LHS get these too).

Pic 3
Mid Spar glued and clamped.

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« Reply #49 on: March 05, 2012, 05:00:12 PM »
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Now we will prepare the Trailing Edge conduit for the Torque Rod linking the Servo with Aileron.
We use a small length of the 6x24mm Triangular Trailing Edge Balsa Strip (ready made or sanded from normal 6mm balsa sheet). We use a drill bit to sand off groove where the nylon conduit for the Torque Rod.


Pic 1
Sanding off the grove.

Pic 2 and 3
The short Nylon Tube dry fit.


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