This project started late last year when I picked up a OS LA-15 engine from GauravAg on this forum. Stuck with Guppy, I desperately wanted to start something else around the engine and picked up this plane.

The Plane was designed by Pierpaolo Pastono whom I could not reach to get permission for posting his design on the forum. I sent him lot of mails, but no reply. So I am posting his original plan, along with the modification I did on the CAD file for laying out the side panel of the fuse to receive the wing.  I would be sharing the Corel Draw files which are good for cutting part on CNC Milling machine/ CNC Laser machine. The Files have every thing neatly laid out, except the the two formers where front Wing Dowel and Bolt at the trailing edge goes. I am yet to hand cut them according to size.

I  am sharing the files purely for the benefit of the community and take no responsibility of any errata and ensuing loss of material at your end.

<I could not attach the Zip/DWG/CRD files due to forum's file format / size restriction. I shall post the link after I upload the files on some file share site>
 
Specs:

Wing span  : 48"
Lenth        : 35"'
Engine       : 15 size
AUW         :  1.5KG
Channels    : 4, 4 Servos
Material:
         3mm Balsa for Ribs
         3mm Ply for Formers,Firewall, Root Rib, Fuse panel
         Spruce/longeron of various thickness as specified in the plan.
         Balsa Leading Edge and Trailing edge as per plan

Electronics/Misc  :   Described with  the build process
Building tools      :   Described with  the build process.
 
The pics below are from other builder, and not my finished model.
I am planning the trim of Orange Kyosho Calmato  low winger which AMP 015 looks close to. 


[Admin Note] Plans uploaded below.

http://www.rcindia.org/myfiles/AMP_015_Piirpaolo_Pastono.zip

http://www.rcindia.org/myfiles/AMP_15_Ujjwal.zip

Before I put the Plan files, here are how the Laser cut parts came out. It was my first tryst with AutoCad and I got great help from 'Rajib' on this forum who is silent for the while.
Few ribs got a bit charred, may be due to extra overlapping lines or the CNC guy mistake.

 

superb

nice build

good luck for ur build..

Some fresh air

Please send me the files to be made public, and I will attach them to your first post.

Thanks Gusty Sir and Krish. Hope to finish the build log soon with the plane itself.
Satz, the planes in the above pics are not the one I have already built but would look like if things go fine.

Folks, I have sent my CAD/Corel Draw files to Anwar to be attached to the thread. Unfortunately my Corel Draw copy I had has expired and I could not see the final CNC layout files. Please dont jump to get the parts cut before I verify once again.

Would post more pics later today.

I am nervous today as my Aeromodeling Guru from my childhood days is in the city for a short  trip from US  and I am taking him Yellahanka field to show flying. Hope there is a good show there...

isn't the trim more like a Candy? you have homed onto it after a lot of search i guess. just a passing thought

Plans added to bottom of first post.

Subscribed  

Great Going Ujjwal  


PS : If you could be kind enough to offer a Complete CNC laser pre cut balsa kit for a 0.1 & 0.05 size say less than 36" WS for sale would be more than glad to buy few of them. No CNC laser cut facility in  Shillong       .

 

++++1

Nice one Ujjwaana.

God bless you.

Oh this needs too much patience. Was this the one you showed us the other day?

@Gusty sir, love at first sight. The trim scheme looked so appealing  to me and the color orange is good for orientation.
@Thanks Anwar sir for taking the pain of putting the files.
@Foamy: Yes indeed
@Sumdaram and Rao Sir,
@Akshay Sir. My progress in this hobby is so much due to your relentless dedication  Yash's flying passion. I so, so ,so much owe all this to you.

   I would love to provide kit service to other flyer. I even tried to collaborate with some LHS. The issue of copyright and unavailability of Balsa/Lite is the one of the basic problem. The other logistics problem is getting the particular CNC technician come on Saturday to get my delicate job done in time. But I can still try help other in my capacity.

Coming back to the build itself. I started the construction with the Fuse, and perticulaly with the bulkhead portion.


1. Paste the two Bulkheads former F2 ( cut out in grain perpendicular to each other) with fevicol SH/slow healing Epoxy clamp them together and  leave it overnight. make sure that the holes for engine mount bars and Longerons should align properly.

2. Paste the 5/16 Sq Spruce to across the Former f2 to supper the Engine mount bars. (Bulkhead1.JPG) This should be flush placed at the holes for the engine mount bars. Put another spruce on the other side of the former, but this one on the other end of the hole.  

3. Paste the  5/16 Sq Spruce Engine mount bars through hole (Bulkhead2.JPG). Use a set square (better carpenter's metal one which has a wide handle to rest on) to ensure both the bars are perpendicular to the former on both the axis (length and width of the former). The bar should be a 0-0 angle to the former. Use washers to set the thrust angle shift later.

4. Once you have the bars pasted, now paste the F15 to further support the bars (Bulkhead3.JPG).

Good start Ujjwaana.  The CNC cutting is superb, I am subscribing to this thread.

It's all Love, you know.

I always pray to God, that we may have more people like you in this world and this hobby.


More to come, I presume.


Keep it up Buddy

All the Best
Akshay

<You are being so modest Akshay!!>

Now we join the Longerons which run from the Tail to the firewall and wing aft to the firewall.

We would need 4 nos of 6x6 SQ spurce sticks.

1. Start with the two Tail-to-Firewall longerons which would attach to the top 'flat' end of the firewall former F02 (Longeron1.JPG)
2. Use the set square to ensure that the Firewall is perpendicular to the longeron (Longeron2.JPG)
3. Attach the loser longeron which run from Wing aft to the firewall. Ensure it is parallel to the previous longeron by fixing the vertical support beams and the end (Longeron3.JPG)

Now put together the lower Aft Fuse Stringer.


1. We would consume the Formers F11,F12,F13 and F14 as in the Plan. We would also need length of 3x3mm Sq balsa sticks.

2. Lay the plan on the the building board and put a clear cellophane sheet over it to protect from glue.

3. Cut the approximate length of the sticks, ( keeping half an inch extra is a good idea for adjustment). We would do a Dry fit before actually pasting the stringer.

4. Place F11 and F14 at their place and pin the sticks flush tight against the notches on the formers (LowerAftFuse1.JPG). Remember to put spare 6x6mm Sq spruce between the plan and the stringer sticks as the notches for 3x3mm spruce is further up on the former after that for the 6x6mm sq vertical 'piller' we would put later.

5. Now place the Former F12 and F13 and put the remaining three stringers. (LowerAftFuse2.JPG)

6. Use a set square to ensure the formers are upright. Mark the stringer for a final cut. Preferably use a Miter box and Balsa razor (Xacto/Zona etc) to get a perfect cut.

7. Place the bottom stringers, mark where the formers would intersect. Put PU/PVA glue at those portion and on the notches on the former.  After 5 min wait, put the formers in place, using the set square to ensure they are upright.

8. Once the glue is set, paste the remaining stringers.

very impressive.... Keep it up

knock - knock.... anyone still building???

Thanks for showing interest! I was holding my further photos before some one actually shows interest. I would surely update once I reach home and have access to build pics...

Hey!!I love to build, so am always interested in someone doing a good build log..

We would now glue the side fuse panels on which the wings would rest. I have modified these side panels as the slot for wings was not shown in the original plan. As my coral draw is out of trial period, I cannot confrim whether the side panels are there in the files.


IMG_3004.jpg --> The left side panel pasted
IMG_3008.jpg --> The Right side panel pasted

Note that i have used a paste of Fevicol and fine sawdust to provide reinforcement at the join edges. This gives tremendous bonding at least weight. Bit ugly,  but works as charm!

IMG_3228.jpg
We then prepare the vertical beam at the tail end which would hold the longeron and the bottom turtle deck (or what ever you call) together. This beam would also support the Rudder and the Tail Wheel. Note that you must use a Set square (even cheap plastic ones should do, metal ones are much handy) to ensure this beam is perfectly perpendicular to the Longeron axis. Not doing so would result in slight oblique pitching tendency from rudder inputs.

IMG_3230.jpg
Finally attach the bottom turtle deck we prepared last time.

The trailing edge of the Fuse side panel needs special treatment to give fitting curve to the former. We would discuss this in next post as we can post max 4 pics per post.

Hey Ujjwal,

Very nice built & detailed explanation.

Please post the pics of wing construction too.


All the best

Keep the formalities aside - your presence is needed to finish this model.... Be the Tommy Hilfiger to this 'Model' and put together its apparel .....

Great going Ujjwal,

More and more I read through your thread, I think the INS Virat and Ranvijay kit which I bought from VC is going to now become flying models for my Cox 0.049 and Thunder Tiger 0.07  .

I am getting deeply inspired. 

INS Virat and Ranvijay will be all Cox, you mean  

sorry couldnt resist

No Gusty all flying models with wings and all with some more balsa sheets lying with me. Since yesterday I have been seeing the Kits again and again, the firewalls of the ship can be easily converted to firewalls of a plane and with all the spar and decking can be converted to a plane. Since yesterday itching to go ahead with the idea.    

Keep it coming Johny

Ujjwaana,
The finished model in the first post seems to have a flat bottom, but the construction states otherwise. Pl explain.

Ujjwal, I would like to call "Che-Guevara" of RC world at least for his efforts in bringing in new techniques, he is eveready to learn and help, he is like a fusion music, combines new and old technics.

Excuse me if my post sounds bit sycophantic but it's truth (and who says truth is always bitter, see it's quite sweet).


Don't worry you will get a designer outfitter for you planes, but do you really need one.

All the Best
 

great Work! Your work has made me speechless, have really long way to go in d beginner zone i guess. But one question is bothering me how much time do you spent in Aeromodeling every day? My daily routine doesn't allow me even 15 min surfing on rcindia ;(

@sundaramvelar  Sir! You are baffeling me!
@Gusty sir: flyers like you are always the inspiration.
@Pankaj sir: You are correct. The pictures in my first post ate that of 'AMP Master Jr', an EP Plane. My thread would be probably the first build thread of AMP 015 on any forum across the globe.

@Mandar: You are humbling me. You dont have any idea what kind of great builder like Deepak Sir, Sanjeev, Sharath Malve, Kumar, Sharad 'R C' , Pradeep I brush shoulder with on sundays... long way to go for me as well... Well I almost spend 2-3 hrs of my daily time in aeromodeling. I wont call myself a good flyer as many others in my field also suggest, but I prefer doing bit of everything, including building which main activity in 'Aero-Modeling'. I spend reading, bit of re-designing (as a step towards a complete scratch designing one day), building and flying on weekends. I also try to help others in my capacity, which sometime becomes rude to others... I dont care...

Coming back to business, lets see how we bend Ply/Balsa for pasting over curved surface. My method is amalgamation of what I learnt from Net, Sanjeev, Sharath and Sharad.

Force-Pasting timber over curved surface by attaching clamps till the glue cures would leave a continues shear force between the ply and the adhesive, resulting in deformation of the surface or even failure of the join.
The wood fibers should be tendered before bending them. This could be done by soaking into plain water (spray, don't dip it), spraying dilute solution of Ammonia for quick result or soaking it by steam from kettle/nasal vaporizer. After soaking the wood by one of the method, leave the wood for 10-15 minutes so the soaking is uniform, and slowly bend the wood over the curved surface with help of clamps and/or pins.

There is another caveat in this process. Dont paste the wet timber !! you would end up with similar problem of not following this process at all. When wet, the wood fibers gets tender and elongated. If you paste them while wet, they would again exert shear force on the other surface after drying. The trick is, dont apply any glue on the wood while you clamp it. Clamp it as if 'Dry fitting', and let it dry overnight (using fan can quicken the process if doing during day time). once dry, the ply would take 70-80% fit shape, rest would exert negligible force. So, once you get the dry, curved surface, apply glue on both surfaces, wait for a while and clamp them together again.
Presto!!!

Clamped1.jpg
Clamped1.jpg
          The ply wet with Easy-of-Bang which contains some ammonia. Clamped with F-Clamps and long drawing pins.

Dried Panel1.JPG
         Panel free from clamps after drying. See the curve shape it has taken

Pasted panel.JPG
         Panel finally pasted with glue.

Excellent approach...Finish is superb

a perfect build LOG..

You got to see this:
http://www.rcindia.org/gas-glow-nitro-planes/gloster-gamecock-latest-project/

wow!!!!

i really  to u !!!!!

so much patience.... and precision.....its really amazing !!!!!

Johny, gamecock is kit, yours is scratch  , two different league altogether +1 with Krish

Gusty sir, now I cannot stop taking it as an encouraging compliment (as I started a parallel build of another Balsa EP Bird)

Next come the the Tail and Fin.

Nothing much to explain here. I have taken the strategy of using Spruce instead of balsa in the load bearing edges.

I am sharing the PDFs for the Fuse and the Left/Right Wings layout. The fuse is in 1:1 , unlike the original plan, and I have also done some translation to English.

<Anwar, please attach the Fuselage PDF  I sent you. It was crossing the 190KB limit, so couldn't attach it here>

[Admin Note] Attached below.

http://www.rcindia.org/myfiles/FuseAssembly26x39.pdf

Note: There is an annotation in the above PDF stating "Fuselage in scale 1:2" . This is copy - paste errata. I have put the Fuse in 1:1 scale.

Any progress after Oct 14th?

Hi Pankaj Sir,
Thanks for being the Night Watchman (like in Cricket) ...

I was more busy with Shadman's Madness-2 (same state like AMP 15), Katana MD of mine and loads of office work (and yes! started modifying Calmato 40 Sports CNC files too).

I have not yet completed the work - Wing is complete but needs covering.
Fuse almost done, but needs Dowel plate, Landing gear plate , Wing bolt plate , linkage etc done.

Would post the Wing assemble pics today.

well actually my interest stems from the fact that there are very few good build logs in this forum. most of the work that people post are more of an afterthought. So I am not going to miss an opportunity like this.

Well then gather more people to keep the spirit of people like me high. More than encouragement, I hear people lamenting my 'Slow Build'. Soon you would see the logs for Katana, Madness-2, and Calmato 40 Sports.

Bill of material:

A. 2x Wing Tip rib (3mm Ply)
B. 2x Wing Root rib (3mm Ply)
C. 14x Remaining Wing ribs : 3mm Balsa
D. 2x  Spruce spar for center Spar = 6x6mmx48 inch
E. 2x  Silver Pine  Spar for trailing edge : 6x6mmx36inch
F. 2x Balsa Leading Edge 36inch
G. 2x Balsa Trailing edge 36 inch.

IMP: The wing is made of a single 48 inch central spar, thus the slight dihedral is given by the position of the spar notches.
For this reason the wing is built up-side down with the 6x6mm trailing edge to be fitted later used as 'Zig' to set the slope on the ribs. The upper trailing edge of the tip rib should be  6mm high (that of the spruce) and the root bib at 12mm (6x6mm Spurce on a 6mm ply etc).

The tons of white Wing Rib 90 degree zig in the photos are home made using 2.5mm Acrylic sheets, cut on Laser cutter. The plan was to use 3mm ply, but the Veneer ply I took could not be cut using laser, thus used Acrylic. I have the plan for the same as well.
 

 

must be a good thing to have a laser cutter at your disposal....
Coming on neatly.

Ujjwaana,
Please don't leave the log half finished.... Are you still at it?

To become a 'Lazy Builder' with the first Balsa build is quite a thing!! Well I started this last year Feb-March timeline and it is now in almost 'Ready to Cover' condition, with some fireproofing, and control linkage lines to be laid. In this meanwhile, I put my hands on Three more planes (4, if you consider Shadman's Madness-2). Mini Katana EP is still in 60% stage, Wing cap-striping and sheeting to done, empennage  to be made and covering. I started Calmato 40 Sports late Dec last year and it is almost in AMP 015 stage - waiting covering.
The fastest build has been that of 'Bonsai DLG Glider' (Decker.De clone), which is again nearing covering stage, in just over 10 days of lazy work.

Anyway, updating the AMP 015 build pics.

Pic 1:
Both side of the Wing Ribs pasted.

Pic 2:
Shear Webbing being 'Press Pasted'. Please note that the grain in balsa strips used for shear webbing is always vertical and you cut a length 2-3 mm longer than the distance between the ribs. You 'Press-paste' the ribs by applying glue at the contact point and using small scrap Ply/balsa over the webbing and pressed with strong clips/clamps to flatten them over the spruce.

Pic 3:
Shear Webbing after drying.

Pic 1:
Cutting Hinge Slot in the trailing edge with Dubro Hinging tool

Pic 2:
 Hinge Slot cut

Pic 3:
Checking if Torque Rods Hinges go into the slot.

Pic 1
Trailing Edge prepped for gluing. Please Note that I have cut slots for a 'Mid Spar' spanning across few riibs towards the root for additional strength. This was not in the plan

Pic 2
The trailing edge spar glued and fixed with clamps (I just love these clamps. Wish LHS get these too).

Pic 3
Mid Spar glued and clamped.

Now we will prepare the Trailing Edge conduit for the Torque Rod linking the Servo with Aileron.
We use a small length of the 6x24mm Triangular Trailing Edge Balsa Strip (ready made or sanded from normal 6mm balsa sheet). We use a drill bit to sand off groove where the nylon conduit for the Torque Rod.


Pic 1
Sanding off the grove.

Pic 2 and 3
The short Nylon Tube dry fit.

cutting a groove with a drill? Is it not lot bigger to handle for this kind of job? would not a small triangular or flat file with manual filing do?

The problem is that you should not cut the groove through the entire length. Doing this with round file looked a bit difficult.

The drill in the picture is a small 12V drill used for PCB drilling. It is smaller than Dremel 300. But having the Bit of the right size (or a Sanding Mandrel ), you can even use the bigger drill running at lower RPM.

But if one is proficient in doing this using File, it should be fine. It was my first attempt and using the drill came as most convenient to me.

Ujjwal... good job