RC India

I guess many of you may have been bored with all the pictures of the foamy P47. So if you were, how about some shots of a pukka balsa and ply, traditional built (from plans) of a Tiger Moth?
May I present to you, plan built, 47 1/2" span, OS 25 powered DH Tiger Moth model designed by Gordon Whitehead.....

Here are some pictures for your viewing
pleasure

The model was flown last Sunday after a gap of almost more than a year. It was collecting dust in the loft, so got it down to realise that the 6 Ch PCM Rx antenna was chewed up at the last 1" end. And so was the charge lead on the switch.
Switch was changed and decided to check out the Rx with the damaged antenna.
The engine was given a good look over including freeing up
At the field, with the Tx antenna collapsed, a long ground range check showed no signs of any problems so it was decided to commit aviation
Had nice three flights, with the fourth one just short of disaster, where an engine cut at the wrong time and altitude meant I was destined to disaster, but thanks to a small dry bush which held the model from rolling down a 15' fall to destruction
So finally it was decided to call it a day
The model flies sweet, with only issue being the inverted OS 25 Fx tendency to cut out frequently         

i see the front cockpit slot is empty, mind if i drop in ;D

Sure, Gusty if you promise to be nice and not fool around with the lady in the rear seat  ;D

And this is what hapens when the wind catches a wingtip :o

Now that is aeromodelling ...!!!

Saikat,
I am sure there are many who would wholeheartedly disagree with that

Back seat driving in airplanes now!

Who is the young aeromodeller in the first picture ? Response is optional !

@ Susheel,
For a Tiger the backseat is the seat in command, the passenger is in the front seat.
@Anwar
That budding aeromodeller is my sonny boy 

So as said earlier the only issue with this model is that the inverted OS 25 FX has tendency to cut unexpectedly. Any idea what could be done?
There is no space for fixing an onboard glow so that is out !

Just a thought... why not solder wires on to the plug (if you are that tight on space, or use small alligator clip on on one wire) and use something like the Switch-Glow (you can make a DIY 1.2v regulator also!) ?

Switch to a 4c engine and relax!

The pun on back seat driving was multiple.

@Anwar,
Yes the space is so tight that there is no space for a seperate battery/cell and circuitry.

@Susheel
Yes a 26 FS would have been ideal but when I built this model, I did not have access to one, and putting one now would mean completely butchering the nose area to redo the entire thing. had toyed with that idea and compared the dimensions of the OS 25 Fx and and OS 26 FS, to a conclusion that it would not be a drop in replacement

A pity. I have found 4c engines to be very reliable and have not had a dead stick till date. Perhaps it is because of the increased suction. In fact, on my Zlin with an RCV 130, the idle had not been set low enough as it was a new engine. It was impossible to slow down the aircraft to an acceptable landing speed and had to be flown - high - for almost 25 minutes till the fuel ran out!

FBC;
go Electric (Pun intended)

Lol Gusty, yes if the motor sounded akin to a Gypsy Major I would definitely do.

On another note, the top and underside of the wings look quite empty. Think I would add the registration to make it look more full

Absolute beauty I would say Captain Manish  :thumbsup:

Photographs of Moth both on ground and air are fabulous.  {:)}  {:)}

Thank you for your kind words

agree with sandy on the fabulous part, incl photography

So it was another Sunday and another Tiger Moth.
This time a tad bigger one, powered by an eight year old Magnum 52 four stroke. The model was completed and test flown on Sept 5th, 2010 and then one more flight was put in during RCPA fly in.
Thinking that I should  add in more details before I fly her next, the model was stored and alas the details never got added. Finally got her out last Sunday and put her through her paces.
Does nice scale flying.
Kit was acquired from UK (sold by DB Sport and Scale) and the original kit was designed by late and legendry David Doddington, which was further refined by current owners of the business. Although a silk and dope finish would have been appropriate, inability to procure shrinking nitrate dope meant that I went with TF Monokote. The call sign on the top wing are fro local sticker shop material and stand out like a sore thumb in terms of colour (mis)match.
Here are some pictures for your viewing pleasure   

Some more. This time, while pulling a loop the things got a bit worriesome, at the top of loop the engine quit. Hmm! Never mind, tighten the elevator, continue the dive, but not to steep to stress the wing, and start getting into the landing pattern while ensuring the nsoe is down.
The photographer sensed an oppurtunity in the slow speed approach and got busy. All photos are by Pradeep. 

And yet some more!!

Now compare this picture with the one at post #4. I am sure some one could say that it is same but the picture has been done up in a photo editing program. Uncanny!!   

Aah ! as good as it can get   . Excellent pictures and wonderful plane !

+1

I love third picture on post #21.

Awesome! I am loving this! Classic!

FANTASTIC MODEL...  {:)}

Only just saw this. Superb, Captain :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

A few small questions:

The front part of the main LG - does it slot into holes on the fuse?
The upper wing - how is it held down? Just the struts and the rigging?

Thanks

Sanjay
The Red one or the Green one are you inquiring about?
For the red one, the horizontal part of the main oleo legs are captured in a slot that is built on the underside of the lower wing center section bottom. The wings are retained by rubber bands and the bands also retain the wire legs. The front struts have small brass tubes over the wire. These tubes are sewn on the ply firewall. Thus the whole assembly swings out towards the nose when required with the brass tubes acting as hinge for the front struts.
For the green one similar arrangement for the front struts but the main oleo is captured on the bottom of center section with plastic clamps that are bolted on with 2-56 bolts and blind nuts. In order to remove the lower wing one has to remove the wing bolts and also the bolts holding the undercarriage clamps and the U/c swings out.

For the upper wing on the red one is held on with rubber bands that fix on to the piano wire that extend from the cabane. The outboard interplane struts and rigging is non functional.
In the green one, the upper wing is retained by a tongue in front and two 3mm bolts on the rear that engage with matching blind nuts fixed to the ply plate on top of the cabane and forming the bottom part of the center section tank.
Hope that helps
 

Thank yo so much Captain

I am planning to make the (red) Whitehead Tiger from Corro, and in Electric.Your clarifications have really been a great help.

In case I do go ahead, I will probably ask you for more  ;D