Traced out the wing tip on 3mm balsa sheet. Cut slots in the leading and trailing edge and after sliding in the wing tip, glued it down. Ensured that the wing tip aligned with the centre of the rib. Sanded down the leading and traiing edges.

Important lessons in this thread for novice builders.

Pl post more pics of carbon rod, how and where you have fixed.

I have used 2 strips of 3 mm flat carbon strips on the top and lower spar. The strips were sourced from HK. I affixed them using cyno though araldite would have been slightly better. (www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/.../__15385__Carbon_Strip_0_5x3x750)

Will Love To See The Plane Video Soon.
Regards,
Aman.

Took two aileron strips and sanded down the edge as shown below to enable free movement of the aileron. Made a mistake of sanding the full length. Later I cut off the required length of the aileron as per the plan. This should have been done before sanding off the edge. I then cut off two small pieces to fill in the edges. I had to sand off the shaped edge and affix a strip of balsa to prepare the end pieces. I could have avoided adding the strips, if I had not shaped the edge before cutting of the arequired aileron piece.

@aman
This will be a slow build because I come home for only a few days each month and only them I do some hobby work. I don't see an early end to this situation.

Cut off two pieces of 3mm lite ply for supporting the aileron servos. Holes for the servo are around 1mm bigger than the servos so that vibrations are not transmitted to the servos. Servos will be supported by small rubber pads to dampen the vibrations which are normal for glow powered rc models. Next cut off a slot in the vertical shear web so that the  servo plate is supported by the lower spar and then glued in the servo plate in both the wings. The model calls for two independent aileron servos, separate for each wing.

Going out again  . Build will resume on return.

great..

I have been followin this very excellent build with great interest. All the best Ashokji

 Thanks. Though I would love to complete the build as early as possible but unfortunate circumstances have forced me to stay away from home. Four walls dont' make a home though! No solution in sight.       

best of luck along with lot of hardwork

Came home for two days. Suspending work on joining the two wings as I have to first create space for storing the wing before I can continue work on it. So started work on the horizontal stabiliser. I have shown step by step the way I arranged the pieces cut off from 10mm balsa for making the stabiliser

Remaining pieces

Once all pieces were in place, used cyno to glue them up. The stabiliser was taken off the plan and the edges were rounded. The elevator piece was cut off from a 10mm balsa sheet and the edges were sanded to give a rounded profile. As per the plan, the elevator is in two pieces joined in the middle. I therefore cut the elevator into two pieces. A piece of hardwood dowel was used for joining. V shaped groves were created in the slot and the dowel epoxied in place. I used the edge of my work table as a guide to keep the two pieces aligned and since it is a glass top table the two pieces will be aligned in the same plane. A twist in the elevator is what is not needed.

This weekend built the vertical stabiliser. Simply layed out the sticks on the plan and once satisfied stuck them with cyno, I then sanded the piece for glue marks and rounded the edges. I also covered the pieces with white covering material.

Started building the fuselage. Decided to try out a totally new material for a 60 size plane. Will be trying out building the fuselage with 5mm biofoam. Sounds crazy!

Started by cutting the panels out of 5 mm foam. Since a glow engine creates a lot of vibration, the cabin section needs to be reinforced with ply. So cut two pieces of the cabin area from  3mm ply.

Next step was to apply fibre glass to the side biofoam panels.Fibre cloth was cut to match the shape of the panel and fixed using thinned out araldite. I used methnol for diluting the araldite. After pouring the mixture on the fibre cloth, it was spread using a piece of formica board. Any piece of stiff card would serve the purpose.

After trimming the extra cloth, the ply reinforcement was fixed on the inner sides. At the same time, the rear part was also covered with fibre cloth. Once dried and trimmed, the two pieces were clamped together and edges sanded so that the two pieces are exactly similar.

After marking the loaction of the formers, cut out the formers for the two cabin ends. These two pieces were fixed  using araldite. The fuselage side pieces wer held in place using rubber bands.

Which Araldite? Slow or rapid?
How did the methanol affect it? On strength. On drying time.
I've been using 20 min Finish Cure epoxy from Bob Smith Ind, USA, via Hobby King,
Or Nerolac Wonderwood.
If Araldite 5 min can be thinned with methanol, and sets within say 30 min, it may be cheaper and faster.
Mention weight of fibreglass too.
Your experience will help many experimenters.

I had used Araldite Standard. Had read somewhere that it can be thinned with alcohol. Since methnol is from the alcohol group it worked. After application, the methanol evaporates and leaves the epoxy behind. The fibre glass cloth was lying with me for the past few years. So do not know its specs.

A thin version of Araldite is available in Mumbai, best suited for this work. I had seen a modeller using it while making a boat. The hardner for this variety is mixed by weight instead of by volume. I can try and find out the exact name of this version of Araldite through a common friend. It was a number and so I have forgotten it.

As for the strength, I can easily hold the fuselage in a horizontal position by holding it at the rear most end. Once the upper and lower pieces of the fuselage are fixed the plane should be adequately strong. I have earlier made a P51 (46 size engine) using biofoam, paper instead of fibreglass and covering in the end with vnyl. The plane has survived a few crashes.

Last weekend joined the two halves of the wing. Drew the outline of a joiner strip with a 4 degree dihedral. Next cut the oiner strip of 10mm  balsa. A slot was cut in the two centre ribs and the balas strip glued in. The joint was reinforced with ply braces on the two sides. Next step was sheeting the wing leading edge with 1/16 inch balsa. The central section was sheeted with thin ply.

A dry fit of the components was done today. A few more weekends of work left.

Coming up beautiful sir. Really getting motivated to build a similar one for my newly recd TT 0.061.

EDIT : Thanks to Iyer Sir's accurate observation below correctly amended to TT 0.61.

@sundaram sir,
A 0.061 sounds like a Norvel instead of a TT