Chnage the screws and dont over tighten 

The screws are unusable.
I will drop down to RCB and buy a screw set - i think its m2x5.
I will also pick up a 1.5mm hex driver if available

This is the problem i was mentioning in my earlier post. But im the unlucky one, Im unable to remove the screws, How did you heat the screws. details plz rajath.

Hi docsree. I used a soldering iron to heat the screw cautiously without toughing any plastic. It took 3-4 attempts to get each screw out

As mentioned in step 8 it is easier to place the servos (if the servos need to be installed from inside) without the frame bolt installed.

The ball with the extension which extends into the anti rotation bracket must not be CA'd untill it is passed through the anti rotation bracket. Either that or do not CA the screws used to hold the anti rotation bracket to the frame. The bracket can be unscrewed to pop the ball end extension into it and then screwed to the frame.

If both the anti rotation bracket and respective ball are CA'd it would be difficult to get the ball extension into the bracket.

Thanks. Rajath,
i might have partially stripped one of the screws already.
So i don't think i vll proceed further vll contact RCB team. Thanks for the info.
Sreedhar

Completed building the tail.
All was well except for the plastic tail servo holder. One of them has a hole thats slightly larger than the screw in diameter. As a result the holder dangles loosely on the tail boom - seem in image 41.

Got hold of a digital tail servo, pitch gauge and prop balancer.

Yet to work on the doomed feathering shaft screw. The Hiller v2 feathering shaft is different from the beginner kit. Hiller v2's has a depression to accommodate the thrust bearings while the beginner kit's doesn't. I wonder if it is better to get the the thrust bearings as well.

if you look closely the tail push rod guides have a small depression at the centre.. use a cable tie and plush this between the tail boom and the guide and cut off the excess using a sharp blade.. align both the guides is such a way that the push rod travels in a straight line when the rudder servos is in use

@Sujju: Thanks. Will do it once the boom is attached to the frame and tail servo is installed and aligned

I bought the Hiller V2 feathering shaft. The screws are better than the one included with the beginner kit. The Shaft itself will not fit the beginner kit head - all i needed was the screw

The blade grips move about smoother (could be better though) than it would earlier.

Pic below shows the two feathering shafts. The thread lock on the beginner kit screw can be seen too.

The fixed length plastic ball links between the SF Mixing arms and blade grips are tight. I have not worked with the other links yet. They may require resixing too. Planning on getting myself a resizing tool as seen here.

Its worth mentioning that the stock tail pitch assembly is butter smooth

Also procured a training skid set with a metal center piece.

Update:
Received all the electronics.
I will be using:
1. HK 2223 3500KV motor with 14/13T pinion
2. HK 50A ESC
3. RCB 9gm servos on cyclic
4. HK H15158A MG Digital servo on tail
5. Assan GA250 MEMS gyro
6. Turnigy 2200mah 20-30C 3s Lipo
7. Turnigy 9x radio gear

Pics of progress so far.
Image 42 shows stripped screws. One screw on the other side is stripped to. Total stripped screws count = 4.

I have installed the head and bolted on the main gear. I observed that when the swash is tilted and the gear is rotated, only one of the blade grips changes its pitch while the other remains in the same position (for the entire 360deg rotation). Will this get ironed out once the head is rotating faster or is there too much friction associated with that particular blade grip?
I have  not installed the servos yet.

Im having trouble deciding if the movements in the head and blade grips are smooth enough. Is there someone in B'lore i can show it to? 

Yes this is fine it will be ok when the head is spinning in high speed.

Bladegrips should fall down with their own weight - remove the links to flybar to check this

Hellyflyer

Thanks Helyflyer. The blade grips do not fall down with their own weight - they are plastic and dont weigh as much as a metal one though.

The blade grips are smooth to move, however i have not tightened the feathering shaft screw - it is thread locked but not tightened.

Would like to show it to someone if anyone is free

Yeah, it's ok not to tight it completely otherwise the blade grips will be very hard to move, find a sweet spot and be carefull when using loctite on plastic.