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« Reply #25 on: March 16, 2010, 11:39:12 PM »
sunk?
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hi anwar,
that was just a reminder of the dangers of these craft,
I have only a smallish yard to learn to hover in . here is a vid of a blade failure
I had

and one of my flybarless 450 clone

I hover very low to atain the hardest stabilaty in the down wash  Wink Smiley
no 'extra' electrics.........just a futaba 6ex tx.  Smiley
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don
« Last Edit: March 16, 2010, 11:44:19 PM by sunk? » Logged

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« Reply #26 on: March 17, 2010, 12:07:31 AM »
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Don - What brand of blades was that ? I have done a good amount of 3D using Align FG blades, with absolutely no problems. 

Are you sure it was not a case of the main blade holders coming off ? The screws on the feathering shaft tends to have grease if you are not careful, so the thread lock does not hold, this happened to many people, who did not watch out for this.

My best crash was when the canopy came loose in flight, and the heli burst into many pieces in flight (like fireworks!) Wink
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« Reply #27 on: March 17, 2010, 12:32:51 AM »
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hi mate,
no both blades gave at the bolt hole,
 I only fly woodies now as you can usualy see any damage quite easily.:-)
but the tx packed up now so have not flown for couple months, every thing seems ok but its not transmitting............needs to go back for repair. :-(
also I need to completly rebuild the head now so will be buying a comercial flybar less head setup.
hope to get the 600 finished this year but........................ been two years to get it this far :-) :-)
the blades were off 'ebay' :-(
regards
don
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« Reply #28 on: March 17, 2010, 08:20:06 AM »
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Hi Don,

Where you using the wooden blades from EBAY when the crash happened? Even I have few pairs of wooded blades from EBAY, just wondering If I should use them.

Also I read that one should not take the head to very high RPM for wooden blades, so whats the safe Head RPM for 450 size Helis with wooden Blades?
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« Reply #29 on: March 17, 2010, 10:56:14 AM »
anwar
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no both blades gave at the bolt hole,

the blades were off 'ebay' :-(

Goes to show that there are certain lower bounds in terms of quality and price that one should be careful about when sourcing parts (especially heli parts) Sad
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« Reply #30 on: March 17, 2010, 01:47:33 PM »
anwar
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Also I read that one should not take the head to very high RPM for wooden blades, so whats the safe Head RPM for 450 size Helis with wooden Blades?

It is best to keep the rpm around 2400 for wood blades.  For example, the Align "Pro" series of wood blades are rated at 2800rpm max, most people do not go that far.

For the sake of comparison, hardcore 3D folks run at 3000rpm to 3200rpm with metal heads and good quality CF blades.  Aerobatic flight is good with around 2600rpm, and appropriate blades (good quality wood blades are fine).

[Updated] Had the numbers wrong, fixed.
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« Reply #31 on: March 17, 2010, 01:49:03 PM »
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To my conclusion CF blades would do best... am i right ?
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« Reply #32 on: March 17, 2010, 01:51:01 PM »
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Not initially, unless you are confident about your flying skills (well, everyone crashes, but that is another matter). 

If you are still getting your orientations and prone to crashes, non-CF blades make more sense economically.
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« Reply #33 on: March 17, 2010, 01:58:28 PM »
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hi guys,
as anwar said.
if you are flying confidently that is a good way to go ...but with quality ones......... these blades do seem to withstand a crash but need 'carefull' looking over after. and they pass damage on into the head when crashed so more damage when you do crash.
no they were not wood blades from ebay in the failure vid. . most quality blades are marked with the recomended top head speed
I used to runn mine at about 2200 to 2400. I had to put a different pinion on when I went to flybar less as the head speed was quite faster without the flybar.longer flights as well. Smiley
I found wooden blades from ebay were 'not bad' but ballence was sometimes not as good as say align where they were so close that a trim sticker on one was a good ballence :-)
regards
don
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« Reply #34 on: March 18, 2010, 03:01:04 PM »
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So for training.. Wooden blades are best right? Will they be able to withstand the head speed ?  Huh?
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« Reply #35 on: March 18, 2010, 03:15:50 PM »
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Sahevaan,
Yes go for wooden or fiberglass blades when learning. I am using those and gives me good luck.
BTW since you are just starting out, i want to give you a sincere advise.

Get a Thunder Tiger mini Titan helicopter, rather than the HK 450.

You will be much better off in terms of quality, and lower downtime, as TT parts are available from various places in India.

Now the TT mini Titan will cost you around Rs 9,000/- for the Heli+motor+ESC+gyro.
Get the servos and battery from HK all for around 3-4K and you are off for 112-13K total ( assuming you have your own radio ) .

If you go with HK450, then you will be spending much more stocking parts.

Later you can move on to HK 450
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« Reply #36 on: March 18, 2010, 03:20:59 PM »
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super brain 40 is just max 3S lipoly
For a 450 Heli you need only 3S , isnt it ? plus is over 30% lighter than Plush 40A and also features data recording.
I havent used this yet, so cannot compare it with Plush, but it seems to be a newer version
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« Reply #37 on: March 18, 2010, 03:27:25 PM »
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Its good to have a 40 A super brain around and keep swapping them in applications to measure stuff. But tomorrow if you want to use the same on a funjet using 4s, you cant. also plush is cheaper.

They all have the pros and cons depending on your usage.
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« Reply #38 on: March 18, 2010, 03:40:23 PM »
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Where can i source the wooden blades from ?
 Help Me
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« Reply #39 on: March 18, 2010, 03:57:37 PM »
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EBAY
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« Reply #40 on: March 18, 2010, 04:00:21 PM »
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Where can i source the wooden blades from ?
 Help Me
If you go for mini Titan, get the woodies from Rotor.co.in OR TT dealer in Bangalore.
COsts around Rs 750/- each pair. Will look like very expensive, but then you should not plan on crashing. Each crash will not just break your blades but will also do other damage to rotor head/heli,.

Initially i was also apprehensive that this is very expensive, but then i found, in long run i have been able to get a lot more flying time, and then the quality is superb too
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« Reply #41 on: March 18, 2010, 04:13:14 PM »
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are the mini titan blades compatible with trex 450? are they 325mm?
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« Reply #42 on: March 18, 2010, 04:19:15 PM »
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many people use trex blades on mini titan. Yes the are 325 mm
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« Reply #43 on: March 18, 2010, 06:22:30 PM »
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Initially where do i begin ? Hovering ? Or just spin the blades ? Or what ? How to program it on the radio ?
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« Reply #44 on: March 18, 2010, 06:44:21 PM »
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If you have not started to build, then http://www.rcindia.org/helis/hk-450-mt-build-thread/ should help.
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« Reply #45 on: March 18, 2010, 10:26:28 PM »
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hi  Sahevaan
if the heli is 'ready to fly' now
ie;_ all bolts are tight, the swash is 90 degrees to the main shaft in 'all' directions .blade pitch set and tracking ok.
do you have the supplied radio that came with the heli or a computer radio?
if computer radio you need to have a linier speed curve and a linier pitch curve set a stock radio is usualy 'pre set' but a computer radio will need setting up for heli.
as for flying you need a 'turntable'.......or slippery floor surface........with plenty of space.....to check the tail rotor is set right, ie when at 1/2 throttle it does not spin iether way.
if so a set of 'training gear' for the skids then just enough throttle to  make heli light on the gear....about 1/2 throttle usualy.... then try to keep the heli in a 1 yard square using the cyclic control and the tail control to keep the heli pionting away from you. when you can acheive a yard square or less then a little more throttle and the same again, eventualy leaving the floor keeping it within the yard square.
do not dispare this can take quite a while ...you only need minute movements on the sticks or you will be 'over controling it and then just chasing it in all directions, if this happens just throttle down and start again................lots of patents needed here.

regards
don
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« Reply #46 on: March 19, 2010, 01:32:03 PM »
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Initially where do i begin ? Hovering ? Or just spin the blades ? Or what ? How to program it on the radio ?

For building it, start with the Finless Bob "Trex 450 SE" build videos on http://www.helifreak.com. Helped me big time when I started, and I would recommend them to anyone without thinking twice.

And for the first flight, watch out for the gyro direction being reversed, so spool it up very very slowly.
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« Reply #47 on: March 19, 2010, 02:40:20 PM »
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hi mate,
if you are biulding the heli a good place for the 'giro' is 'undernieth' the frame in the same area.....at the boom/frame' fix piont, it will stay there ok with the sticky pad :-) but will not get trashed by the blades in the event of a crash..........if I remember corectly...... the setting would be 'norm' not rev in this position.........if the heli spins wildly with any rudder input then the setting needs to be the opposite ie:- norm or rev on the little switch .  the rudder servo setting is normaly when give left rudder stick the 'nose' goes to left.
the same as when driving a land vehicle.
enjoy your craft .....they are not easy at first, but loads of fun.
have patents and dont rush anything.........................and be safe. Smiley
regards
don
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« Reply #48 on: March 19, 2010, 03:35:03 PM »
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Hi Don,

I just took another look at the video, the look on your face when the heli blade failed was cool  Wink Totally shocked eh? Grin
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« Reply #49 on: March 19, 2010, 05:03:30 PM »
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hi vinay,
hahaha.....yes something like ' what the f*****' hahaha
regards don
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