Hi Anwar Ji,

Thanks for your help.

Indeed the feathering shaft is to be removed with the help of 2 hex drivers.

I happened to call Mr. Irshad to find out why the nut is very tight. He said that I need to apply a little heat with solder iron to remove the nut as it is tightened with locktite. (He adviced me to use Blue Locktite only).

Now please clarify whether blue locktite needs heat to remove them & should I use red or blue locktite.

Thanks

Arun

Blue loctite should come out with a small amount of force usually. If not, heat helps.

I use blue loctite alone for pretty much everything.  It is only extremely rarely that I use red loctite (for some parts on the head of full metal head helis, which I know will pretty much never be removed).

Anwar, Rajesh told me that blue anabond is much stronger than blue loctite. I havent used blue loctite, but anabond blue is really strong. I decided that on 450 heli, I use blue anabond only on FS and jesus bolt, rest would be 222 purple loctite. I got the HK blue loctite, need to test it.

The trick with loctite is using the bare minimum quantity.  It should be enough to cover just the last 2 to 3 threads, and no more. Most times, I apply the smallest bit to one screw, and most often I roll the threads of another screw around the one with the loctite, which leaves the right quantity on both !

If you have done your loctite correctly, you can hear the distinct "pop" sound when you try to unscrew it later on (after curing, which takes a few hours).

Hi All,

I have finshed repairing my heli and about to test fly.

The Hirobo Sceudu Heli parts are available online with singahobby, Singapore.

I happened to buy some parts from them, their service is excellent. I have also got a cross member for reinforcing the frame, where the boom support goes.

After lots of hard work I am happy that I could set things up by myself.

I will be posting the test fly results alongwith videos.

Thanks

Arun

Good to know its fixed, All the Best! And do spend a lot of time on sim 

Hi Vinay,

Thanks a lot.

I forgot how to insert the video here.

Thanks

Arun

Just paste the Youtube link (like )

Thanks a lot Anwar Ji.

Here is the video of the first start after the crash.



Please comment on the Carbon Blades.

Had to stop the engine as the heli was wobbling.

Thanks for watching.

Arun

It was due to loose blades in the grip.

Here is how I fixed it.



Thanks

Arun

After the crash I understand the pain in rebuilding and thats why I decided to go slow.

Initially trimmed the controls and finished 1 tank hovering.

I was a little afraid of parts flying in all direction, thats why I decided not to stay or have anybody right behind the heli. Thank GOD things went very smooth.



Please advice/comment on the video.

Thanks a lot once again and I will keep posting more videos and pics soon.

Arun

Behind the heli is the right place to stay... but at some safe distance !  Great to see the bird fly again.  At one point, it seemed to rock from nose to tail, which indicates the need for  a little higher throttle curve in that throttle position.

Carbon blades may be premature for initial hovering, nothing wrong with using them though !  Should make the heli more stable, at the risk of crash costs for the same (but hopefully not!)

Thanks a lot for your valuable feedback.

My throttle/ Pitch curve is as follows:-

       Throttle             Pitch
L        0                     -2.5
2        23                   -2.5
3        38                    0
4        50                    +5.5
H        100                  +9


Idle up1
      Throttle             Pitch
L        100                  -9
2        55                   -5.5
3        48                    0
4        57                    +5.5
H        100                  +9

Please advice whether the above is fine on an OS50sx hyper engine.

Good to see you back in the air.
Quick comment/observation. When starting the engine, You should firmly hold the rotor grips . This would prevent any accidental high-speed starts ( which sometimes can occur even at idle throttle ) !

Nice Hovering!  Its good to know you have decided to do it step by step 

Hi Gaurav,

Thanks for your advice. I will do that in future.

Hi Vinay,
Thanks.

Hi Anwar Ji,
Please advice if the throttle/pitch curve is ok.

Throttle+Pitch combination really depends on each heli, on how the head is setup.  So there is no "one size fits all" setup, even for the exact same heli model.

Basically, if the heli rocks from nose to tail (nose goes up, tail goes down, then tail goes up and nose comes down), it means that you are trying to lift off without enough rpm on the main blades.  Just adjust the throttle curve slightly higher *at the position* where this rocking happens.  Do it only enough to prevent any such rocking.

Hi All,

I have replaced all the 3 swash servos from JR 539 to DS610.

(The servos doesnt make any noise while switched on except for the one on the collective pitch which does sometimes make a little noise.) Is that Normal ?

Replaced the throttle servo Futaba S3004 (Not Recommended for Nitro Heli) with Hitec HS-645 Karbonite Gear one.

Will fly the heli this Sunday.

Thank You All for your valuable assistance in helping me reach so far in this hobby.

Best Regards

Arun

Digital servos are known to buzz, and the Align ones are known to buzz a bit louder than many others.  Just make sure they are not binding.

"Binding" refers to movement of the servo arm being physically restricted when some physical part hits the extremity of its possible travel range.

Looking forward to the next set of flight videos !

Hi Anwar Ji,

Thanks.

Can you please let me know what is the ideal(Max) pitch for aileron and elevator.

Thanks

Arun

The max deflection ranges for cyclics are usually listed in the manual, go with those.  It depends on the particular model.

Let me know if you need help with hunting the values down for this particular model (we should be able to find PDF manuals for this model).

Anwarji,

I have the manual with me, but it is not mentioned anywhere.

I will be very greatful if you can let me have some idea regarding it or is it possible the if one goes about setting the length of the linkages as per manual so that the required deflection is automatically achieved.

Thanks

Arun

I will try to find the details. 

For a quick setup, you can check :

Take the collective/swash to the bottom first (usually full negative pitch, except on some models like TT ones), and then apply full aileron and see if there is any mechanical binding all the way to the servo arms.  Repeat the same for elevator.  If there is any binding or if you see parts hitting each other in a non-natural way, you have to handle that by reducing the cyclic/collective angles.

Then repeat the above for both elevator and aileron, but this time do it with the collective/swash at the top (usually full positive pitch position).

Getting the link lengths correct will help you get pretty close, but there are radio setup items also which can affect cyclic ranges.