Hi Guys ,
Below is the info i found and i tried this on my Trex 550 and it has worked worked on my 3G.
Hope it helps
1. have sensor as rigid as possible, I use a thin almost paper like double sided tape to attach sensor to a heavy, thick and large steel Spartan plate, then a 1mm thick foam tape to the gyro mount. In addition, I also use a wide, not the skinny, align Velcro strap and tighten it down as much as I can.
2. Make sure that the aileron and elevator rotation rates in the "command display" screen are the same. You do this by adjusting the aileron/elevator "control rate" in their respective parameter setting screens until you get equal values, if desired, in the "command display" screen, but you must press the "write" button to see the changes.
3. Set up dials on control box to about 12 o'clock, calibrate by observing the "3G setting display" screen until you see about 75% on the aileron and elevator gain. By doing this calibration the same for each helicopter, you can transfer settings from heli to heli meaningfully.
4. After step 3 you can increase your 'total gain compensate' in the aileron and elevator parameter setting screens.
5. If you experience good stability and a locked in feel, but have some oscillation in an elevator flip with aileron oscillation or other oscillations in aileron tic tocs, then gradually lower your lock gains in each of the aileron and elevator parameter setting screens, until satisfied.
6. Increase the swash return speed to about 70 in the "miscellaneous" screen.
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Tail wags have been fixed by,
1. Moving in the control ball on the tail servo horn.
2. Do not have the gyro mounted too loosely.
3. Reducing the rudder lock gain.
4. Increasing the gain in TX or software.
5. Making sure tail control links are very smooth.
Do the sensor Mod
This is what I have been doing to my sensors, I have the silicone just touching the top and I leave the tabs in. I tried to put as much glue in as to stabilize the sensors and not contact too much of the sides and the top, but I wanted the tabs to remain to locate the sensors and the glue touches the tabs to insulate them from/to the sensors that they touch. The silicone does not ooze out anywhere. Lately I have been using Momentive rtv 162 electronics grade silicone, In the early mods I've used dynatex blue high temp rtv and permatex ultra grey rtv. All glues worked equally well.
I am not putting any glue on bottom of gyro sensor board.
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I am not using any stop gains
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Using non FBL blades will result in a lower gain rate about 80% on aileron and elevator in the parameter setting screens (about 92% in the "3G setting screen", and a lock gains at 40%, swash return speed of 70, will work with no oscillations.
But with heaver FBL blades you can increase the gains to 88% or more, in aileron and elevator parameter setting screen (about 100% in the "3G setting screen" and a lock gains at 40%, swash return speed of 70, will work with no oscillations, BUT WILL BE VERY STABLE, even in very windy, gusty conditions. With heavier blades, the slower response will be overcome by increasing the cyclic deflection in aileron and elevator in DIR setup or elevator/aileron control rate in the software in the aileron/elevator parameter setting screens.
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If, a sensor is erratic, it is likely due to vibration, due to tape or mounting position.
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I have not had the tail twitch issue, but some have found the cause to be static electrical discharge on belt driven machines.
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