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« on: March 30, 2010, 11:14:36 AM »
lavneetgyani
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Finally got the T-rex 600 NP Kit and have just started the build process....Finished the blade holder assembly on the rotor-head along with the see saw assembly within the hour. Hit my first roadblock with the direction of the centre portion of the thrust bearing on the feathering spindle....had to open and re-assemble to get the railed portion facing the hub to prevent the grease flying out!! .... a pain to get the locktightened screws out of the spindle...but got it right finally....now for the flybar assembly....
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« Reply #1 on: March 30, 2010, 11:20:27 AM »
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Great going. Do post some pictures.
Also does this kit come with some parts pre-built ? or do you need to build up everything.
I built my Raptor 50 recently, and nothing came pre-assembled . Had a zillion parts in at least a hundred plastic bags ! I am glad I didnt loose anything.

Are you also taking assistance from the Bob Finless videos from HeliFreak ? i thought i had seen the Trex 600 build video the other day . Ok here is the link : http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=41514

Also do post what equipment you are going to use : Engine, gyro, servos, radio

Look forward to seeing this come together.
-Gaurav
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« Reply #2 on: March 30, 2010, 11:29:08 AM »
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Yup, have the Helifreak vids.....so far used just the manual for the head assembly.Everything needs to be built from scratch except some basic assemblies like the tail gear assembly etc. But the good thing is that the packets are nicely marked and tagged...here are the components:

1. T-Rex Nitro Pro carbon edition heli kit
2. OS-Max 50 Heli engine
3. Century Tri-flo muffler
4. Futaba Gy520 gyro with 9254 rudder servo
5. Hitec digital servos with 5.5Kg torq for cyclic and throttle (forget the number)
6. 600mm CF blades
7. 2000mah Nimh Rx battery (should be good for 3-4 tanks before a recharge)
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« Reply #3 on: March 30, 2010, 11:40:11 AM »
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Way to go Lavneet, you will love this one Smiley  Being my primary bird for about 1.5 years, I can say with confidence that if you are careful about the build and setup, it can do pretty much whatever you want it do to Thumbs Up

BTW, did you buy it locally ? And is it the NSP or the NP ?  And did you consider the Knight 50 instead at any point ?
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« Reply #4 on: March 30, 2010, 11:43:42 AM »
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Please ignore the question about the NSP, I see that it is the NP, since the NSP comes with servos etc.
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« Reply #5 on: March 30, 2010, 12:58:53 PM »
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moderator pls delete this post
thanks
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« Reply #6 on: March 30, 2010, 01:39:43 PM »
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It is a Nitro Pro bought off ebay USA, had to pay some duty but still a good deal....whats the diff with knight 50? This one came with a carbon frame, CF tail blades and CF fins etc. Rotor head and Swash are alloy and the blade holders are Nylon...trying my best to build as slow , true and square as possible...
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« Reply #7 on: March 30, 2010, 07:10:46 PM »
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If you were buying from outside, this would have been a wonderful deal.

http://www.helipross.com/special-pak-align-t-rex-600-nitro-limited-edition-w-4xservosgp780align-55h-enginmuffler.html

The Knight 50 is considered a better 50 size heli by many.  I have not flown one, but many who have flown both said that it is better.  And it is locally available in India.   But you cannot go wrong with Align either, as it is also very high quality. 

One good thing about Align is that spares are available all over the world (being the world's most widely used RC heli brand), and whatever models they come up with, they never disappoint.  So far, the first version of the Trex 250 seems to be their worst initial release.  But they also always come up with upgrades and replacement parts quickly to fix any issues. 

I did upgrade by main blade holders to metal ones on my Trex 600 NP.
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« Reply #8 on: March 31, 2010, 11:58:38 AM »
lavneetgyani
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full rotor head assembly complete.....

DSC_2647.jpg
Re: T-Rex 600 Nitro pro, my first Nitro heli build...
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« Reply #9 on: March 31, 2010, 03:45:07 PM »
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Great going. That was kinda quick ! Does the Trex 600 use the E-CCPM ?
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« Reply #10 on: March 31, 2010, 04:15:17 PM »
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yes CCPM
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« Reply #11 on: March 31, 2010, 07:10:39 PM »
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Good going Thumbs Up

Your flybar paddle (at least one of them) seems to be not in line with the flybar "cage" (or so it seems from the picture).  If it is it not in the same plane, do remember to correct it along with your final pitch setup steps.
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« Reply #12 on: April 01, 2010, 10:58:48 AM »
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Good going Thumbs Up

Your flybar paddle (at least one of them) seems to be not in line with the flybar "cage" (or so it seems from the picture).  If it is it not in the same plane, do remember to correct it along with your final pitch setup steps.

Thats because the set screws that secure the flybar to the cage have only been lightly screwed into the notches on the flybar to prevent the flybar from falling out. This gives the paddles a lot of play. The setscrews will be thread locked and tightened at the end after I have the measurements done with a V caliper. After that i will twist the paddles parallel to the blade grips with the help of a pitch gauge...

reached stage 2, finished the clutch and getting thre main frame together now....

DSC_2652.jpg
Re: T-Rex 600 Nitro pro, my first Nitro heli build...
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« Reply #13 on: April 02, 2010, 09:09:36 AM »
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Frame with tank and Landing skids assy complete so on to the 3rd stage of engine mounting....it looked perfectly square on a glass surface and the main shaft just dropped straight in through the 3 bearings.....

DSC_26611.jpg
Re: T-Rex 600 Nitro pro, my first Nitro heli build...
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« Reply #14 on: April 02, 2010, 10:11:22 AM »
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Good going. Started to look like a heli now !
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« Reply #15 on: April 03, 2010, 12:12:10 AM »
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 Engine , clutch and cooling fan assembly mounted - 2nd Apr '10


DSC_26631.jpg
Re: T-Rex 600 Nitro pro, my first Nitro heli build...
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« Reply #16 on: April 04, 2010, 04:08:46 PM »
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All 5 servos mounted, cyclic bellcranks mounted, canopy also test fitted to get a sneak peek at the colour scheme... - 4th Apr '10

DSC_26681.jpg
Re: T-Rex 600 Nitro pro, my first Nitro heli build...
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« Reply #17 on: April 05, 2010, 10:25:10 PM »
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Torque tube fitted with both sides gear assemblies..Tail rotor assembled. Boom fitted to the main frame, muffler fitted, plumbing done...

DSC_26721.jpg
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« Reply #18 on: April 06, 2010, 12:05:32 AM »
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Forgot to ask... did you get the 2 in 1 regulator ? Since you got a NiMH pack instead of the 2cell lipo, looks like you may not have it.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/18762/n/Align-B6T-2-in-1-Voltage-Regulator

That is one of the best things I liked from Align.  Got rid of the whole glow igniter (hot-shot) business, with the convenient 15 seconds auto shutoff of glow power after pressing the button.  The initial units had some issues with switch quality etc, the current ones have been working great for all of us on our field.  Many have put them on non-Align helis, and even planes.
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« Reply #19 on: April 06, 2010, 11:10:16 AM »
gauravag
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Here's one at about half the price
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6696&Product_Name=iMAX_iBEC_6A_Linear_Regulator_&_Glow_Drv.

And Rotor stocks it too !
I am going to go with it for my Raptor 50
http://rotor.co.in/show-detail.asp?prodid={C79678CD-FCC0-4B89-84AC-DB29AE0A0595}&pn=1

Anwar,
Since you used this, what is the recommended Lipo I should be using ? 2200mah 2S ? Thinking of using Zippy from HK
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« Reply #20 on: April 06, 2010, 11:18:06 AM »
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Some scary reviews (although with 5 star ratings Head Scratching).  The output is 5.3v instead of 6v (this can be good or bad, depending on your needs).

Also, the Align one includes a 1900mah lipo in the price. 
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« Reply #21 on: April 06, 2010, 11:43:54 AM »
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Indeed some reviews were scary, where people reported loss of control when hot.
BTW Align one does NOT include the battery.  AMainHobbies says that clearly.
Rotor seems to stock these, and i would love to use this with my Raptor. What battery do you use, Anwar ?
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« Reply #22 on: April 06, 2010, 12:13:52 PM »
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Amain was the result of a quick search.  The last time I got one was from here :

http://www.helipross.com/align-b6t-2-in-1-voltage-regulator-combo-he50h11-1.html

and that is a combo with the lipo.

I use the Zippy 2s3p low-C ones (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8272&Product_Name=ZIPPY_Flightmax_2100mAh_2S3P_Receiver_Pack_) and the Outrage XPRX ones (http://www.helidirect.com/outrage-nrgrx-2s1p-74v-2500mah-spektrumjrfutaba-receiver-battery-p-13176.hdx).  The Outrage XPRX ones also double as TX batteries for my TX in case of emergencies (otherwise the default NiMH). 

You can go for more mAH for longer periods between recharges, on a 50 size heli, the added weight is not really an issue.
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« Reply #23 on: April 07, 2010, 04:10:34 PM »
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Lavneet,
What servos are you using for your heli ? I remember you mentioning Hitecs but which ones exactly  ?
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« Reply #24 on: April 07, 2010, 04:26:04 PM »
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http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-5485hb_servo.html

9254 Fut on the rudder
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« Reply #25 on: April 07, 2010, 09:14:30 PM »
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Everything ready, only radio installation and setup pending!!

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« Reply #26 on: April 07, 2010, 09:57:00 PM »
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Lavneet, watch out for the clunk line inside the tank.  If you used the one that came in the kit, then it tends to elongate after being soaked in the fuel, causing all kinds of funny/serious issues (including the engine running lean intermittantly, and even quitting when you are flying with less than 25% of fuel in the tank).  Just watch for it after say every few days, and snip off the excess length. 

Using better quality clunk lines help, and a header tank absolutely helps.
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« Reply #27 on: April 08, 2010, 01:59:35 PM »
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cool...i will test fly and then add the already sourced 60ml header in a few weeks....where does the header go? Seems to lack that space on the Rex 600....can you post some pics of your header attachment?
Cheers
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« Reply #28 on: April 09, 2010, 12:09:40 AM »
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Here is how mine is mounted.  Basically drill a hole of right dia in the CF frame, and use a stand-off bolt.  There are lots methods of mounting header tanks though.

I think my tank came from an XCell Fury heli, being sold separately at one of the LHSes. It is the "stand-off bolt" that is sort of hard to find.

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« Reply #29 on: April 09, 2010, 12:04:53 PM »
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Thanks man!! Extremely helpful pictures...I have the TT raptor header though!! Did you also epoxy the header to the main tank?
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« Reply #30 on: April 09, 2010, 12:13:48 PM »
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Lavneet, I am using the same servos on my Raptor 50.  Hitec 5485HB.
They are great, but I think the collective demands something more powerful.
Plus with your high performance setup, shouldnt you be looking at Metal gear high toque ones ? 5645 and the likes ?
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« Reply #31 on: April 09, 2010, 12:20:09 PM »
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Hi gaurav, From your point it seems the Raptor 50 is Non CCPM (is that correct?)..in that case i would never use this servo on the collective!!!.....In my case(CCPM) 3 servos are working in tandem to lift the collective and I cannot see them being inadequate in torque!!
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« Reply #32 on: April 09, 2010, 12:25:52 PM »
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Well yes, i overlooked that Smiley 5485-HB are great. What Rx battery pack you going to use ?
I just upgraded mine from a NiCad to a A123 one and its wonderful. No regulators needed . Been using this same combo ( 5485 + A123 + Futaba ) on my patternship and works great
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« Reply #33 on: April 09, 2010, 12:28:16 PM »
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Excellent!! 123 are the future...I have actually orderd the Align Regulator/lipo combo with onboard glow igniter as Anwar had suggested. Should be with me in a week. In the meantime I will use a 4.8v 2000mah nimh for the first few flights till that arrives!!
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« Reply #34 on: April 09, 2010, 01:40:57 PM »
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Did you also epoxy the header to the main tank?

Lot of people use the TT header tank, since that is the one usually available locally Smiley 

In my case, the two tanks do not touch each other at all, but it is entirely up to you how you want to do it.  People even use double-sided tape as the starting point, and then additional jigs to ensure a secure attachment to the main tank.

You can avoid drilling a hole in the CF frame if you can find longer substitute bolts instead of one of the existing ones.  Many pictures in this thread of various header tank mounting options :

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=39093

What ever you do, apply simple common sense building tricks, like I dropped a thin line of CA along the two tie wraps that hold the header tank on to the L shaped bracket (there is also thin double sided tape there).  This adds to protection from the header tank moving around within the tie wraps.  Such small items help prevent accidents/issues that can truly be avoided in the first place.
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« Reply #35 on: April 09, 2010, 02:16:01 PM »
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so from what I understand, there is only one point of contact to the heli / frame in your setup - the bolt with the spacers? What then prevents it from dangling like a pendulum with that bolt as the pivot?
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« Reply #36 on: April 09, 2010, 04:51:05 PM »
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It could, but the bolt and the nut (that goes with the bolt, hidden behind the frame in the pictures) are tightly fixed with thread-lock.  Has not tilted at all so far.
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« Reply #37 on: April 10, 2010, 02:27:12 PM »
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 Drool My favorite Heli.
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« Reply #38 on: April 10, 2010, 03:24:23 PM »
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BTW how does Trexs compare with Raptors in general ?
Since I am flying a Raptor now, would be good to know . Who knows my next heli might be a Trex !
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« Reply #39 on: April 10, 2010, 03:44:00 PM »
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In reality I saw more raptors at jakkur than Trexs. But in Sim I liked the rex a lot lot more than the raptor. I felt I could do more 3D on a Rex rather than a raptor. This is one question even I am waiting for the answer. And I hope to read the answer not saying "Personal preference."  Grin  Wink
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« Reply #40 on: April 10, 2010, 04:05:00 PM »
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Obviously the big difference is that it is CCPM.  It is certainly a higher quality kit, with the Pro version coming with torque tube tail that improves tail performance significantly (which can be a problem if you hit the blades on the ground, as the gears tend to break easily), CF frames etc.  Most people do not do 3D comfortably on Raptors (at least heavy pitch pumping moves) with out some upgrades.  Raptor has some price advantage and local availability advantage, but availability of the Align range is never an issue when it comes to ordering from outside (actually it is much better compared to Raptor/TT).  And if factor in the upgrades and quality, price is also less of a factor, and things like http://www.helipross.com really helps.  

In short, when you are ready to get into 3D/advanced maneuvers, it is time to move on to something like the Trex 600 or the Knight 50.
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« Reply #41 on: April 10, 2010, 04:09:14 PM »
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Anwar, I noted that in a sim when I pitch up a Trex 600 and move the aileron left and right (like moving the heli up in a snakes path), the Trex boggles down to very low head speeds. How does people like Tareq do 3D on nitro Helis?  Head Scratching
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« Reply #42 on: April 10, 2010, 04:10:18 PM »
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Lavneet - That above discussion reminds me that I should warn you to leave the tail blades pretty loose. In fact, loose enough that they fall on their own weight.  Otherwise you tend to lose the torque tube gears at the slightest hit of the  tail blades on the ground or even in grass.  I have changed mine about 5 times now, mostly practicing auto-rotations that did not work well initially.  

Some people even jig up something like thick aluminium rods/wires (or piano wires) under the tail fin to increase the clearance of the tail blades from the ground.  I have seen others connect their landing gears facing backwards to help with this, but I have not been convinced about the effectiveness of the same.
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« Reply #43 on: April 10, 2010, 04:16:15 PM »
anwar
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Anwar, I noted that in a sim when I pitch up a Trex 600 and move the aileron left and right (like moving the heli up in a snakes path), the Trex boggles down to very low head speeds. How does people like Tareq do 3D on nitro Helis?  Head Scratching

Not enough data to comment on what is happening on the sim for you. 

As far a Tareq is concerned (or any full 3D flier), it is a mix of a well tuned engine, the help of a governor in maintaining a constant head-speed and most importantly, learning to realize the right about of collective/pitch (or a combination of collective and cyclic) needed to perform each maneuver.  If you watch the videos of the 3D pros which shows their stick movements, you will realize that the whole marketing talk about "our heli is capable of doing -14 to +14 pitch range" is not needed at all to do what they are doing.  They almost never take pitch to such extremes, and even when they hit extremes, that is only for a fraction of a second (a quick "pitch pump" for those thundering stops). If you keep the pitch at max, the head gets loaded and you lose head-speed quickly in most cases.
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« Reply #44 on: April 10, 2010, 04:24:51 PM »
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Well that answers my question exactly!

Well when it comes to motors, a High KV motors or a 4 Cell lipoly increases the speed of 450 size heli. Is there a similar way to increase the head speed of a nitro heli, like different breed of engines specifically for 3D etc?
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« Reply #45 on: April 10, 2010, 04:49:14 PM »
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Yes, there are engines of different performance (mostly rpm) capabilities.

Head speed is also a factor of gear ratios (especially the pinion gears on the motor shaft, which is something you missed in addition to motor, lipo).  That is something often tweaked for electrics and rarely for nitro ones.
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« Reply #46 on: April 10, 2010, 04:52:11 PM »
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Good to know more about nitros.
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« Reply #47 on: April 11, 2010, 12:04:36 AM »
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Lavneet - That above discussion reminds me that I should warn you to leave the tail blades pretty loose. In fact, loose enough that they fall on their own weight.  \

Point well noted, will keep that in mind. I have had a friend loose those gears on the Trex 500....

All electronics/radio/battery/gyro installed and programmed. All bench tests done and pitches set for all three modes and only need to add fuel and test fly- Crazy to see how effortlessly the pitch jumps from a -14 to a +14  if one wants to set it up that way.... I have gone by the manual with -2 to +10 setup in the normal mode...

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Re: T-Rex 600 Nitro pro, my first Nitro heli build...
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« Reply #48 on: April 11, 2010, 12:32:26 PM »
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Successful maiden..First a 5 minute sortie with training gear and the booster plugged in. Off with the training gear in 2nd flight. Kept it mostly in ground effect to run the rich engine in....last photo is of all the guys who helped me with the project - Roet Bindra, Ramesh Tahlan and Jagjit Singh - missing from that picture are Anurag from Nagpur with his constant over-the-phone inputs and Amit (akumar) who could not come to the field today...It was a fun 2 weeks...Over and out on the build pictures....!!

 Salute

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« Reply #49 on: April 11, 2010, 12:37:49 PM »
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Congrats !  The first picture stands out for its beauty Smiley 

Wonder why you left the glow igniter dangling from the heli Head Scratching
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« Reply #50 on: April 11, 2010, 12:41:49 PM »
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Wonder why you left the glow igniter dangling from the heli Head Scratching

engine died for the Nth time with first starts...so my brain-wave to keep it on for just 4-5 mins in a ground effect hover - just to see if the darn thing even flew!!!
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« Reply #51 on: April 11, 2010, 01:16:14 PM »
anwar
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The low needle being rich is common, causing the engine to quit frequently during break in.  Another issue is the glow plug itself, but being brand new, that is less suspect here. 

From the later pictures, it looks like this resolved itself after the engine found its groove ! 
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« Reply #52 on: April 11, 2010, 03:05:50 PM »
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Great ! Congratulations.
What fuel did you use for the breakin ? Even mine died 10 times on my Raptor's first flight. Idle was OK, but as the throttle was increased, at mid point the engine got too rich and died. With airplanes we usually leave the glow plug connected during the first minute of breakin. Didnt really think of doing that on a heli.

Great show. Look forward to further pictures/videos.
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« Reply #53 on: April 11, 2010, 05:21:27 PM »
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Used the following and plan to use it throughout the helis flying days!

10 synthetic
10 castor
10 Nitro
70 Meth
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« Reply #54 on: April 14, 2010, 04:18:23 PM »
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Did some slow and low fwd flights on the 2nd flight...lots of bobbing vibration though... Head Scratching

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« Reply #55 on: April 14, 2010, 04:34:01 PM »
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Can't see the "bobbing vibration" Head Scratching  Can you describe what you are seeing a bit more ? 

The head-speed looked good for what you are doing, and the tail was holding well too. 
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« Reply #56 on: April 14, 2010, 04:40:02 PM »
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i am glad you asked the specifics  Grin

It is not true bobbing but just that the tail is vibrating very fast in an up-down motion. The movement is less tan an inch maybe but it is vibrating a lot!!
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« Reply #57 on: April 14, 2010, 04:55:23 PM »
anwar
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I can barely see it in the video, and a bit of vibration is normal. In any case, you should get some help by bumping up your throttle curve for those stick positions by a little (about 3 to 5 points is a good guess).  A good amount of up-down wobble of the tail is typically an indication of not enough head-speed (which is barely visible in your case, but no harm in being a bit higher).
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« Reply #58 on: April 15, 2010, 07:21:35 AM »
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Hey lavneet good going...The best part is that you assembled it yourself so, you know ur heli the best .
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« Reply #59 on: April 25, 2010, 10:27:59 AM »
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Hey Anwar,
I got your recommended Align B6T 2 in 1 regulator with the align lipo. I was installing it and just realized that its regulated output is 5.8v while the Fut S9254 is rated for 4.8v!!!! No am I going to need the Align inline 5.1v regulator between the Gyro and the Servo to prevent it from getting fried?? This is such a pain if i cant use it in this setup and having to add so many weak links to the setup!! Or, will the 9254 stand up to the regulated 5.8v output just fine?

Cheers
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« Reply #60 on: April 25, 2010, 10:50:33 AM »
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Futaba 9254 cannot handle 5.8V . Yo uwill need to use a regulator.
That is the prime reason, I switched to the Turnigy servo. Works great with unregulated 6.6V A123.
In your case, just use the inline regulator. Should be good enough. Its just a diode !
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« Reply #61 on: April 25, 2010, 11:11:24 AM »
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Yes, you have to bring it down to 5.1v using the regulator (which is just diodes).  It is a shame that I overlooked your rudder servo, and did not mention this initially itself (although it was not clear from the NiMH battery specs whether it was 4.8v or 6v).  But you will love the convenience of it later on, and you can continue the old setup until then; so there is nothing really to lose.

A diode is the last thing you expect to fail, so the whole "weak links" part is not a concern at all.
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« Reply #62 on: April 25, 2010, 03:59:21 PM »
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darn!!! the wait is so irritating, I changed all the elctrics for the 2 in 1 and am no way going to cange it back to the old setup, will just wait for the inline regulator.
In the meantime just read this whole thread and see the counter arguements....these are by experienced heli pilots BTW!!

http://www.rcheliaddict.co.uk/main-discussions/31440-align-2-in1-reg-futaba-s9254-help-please.html
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« Reply #63 on: April 25, 2010, 04:17:04 PM »
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Not worth the risk on an expensive servo, and possibly the expensive heli. 

Regardless of the discussion, Futaba clearly does not support 6V.

http://www.gpdealera.com/cgi-bin/wgainf100p.pgm?I=FUTM0224
http://www.futaba-rc.com/servos/digitalservos.html
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« Reply #64 on: April 25, 2010, 06:01:20 PM »
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darn!!! the wait is so irritating, I changed all the elctrics for the 2 in 1 and am no way going to cange it back to the old setup, will just wait for the inline regulator.

If you have a servo extension lying around, it is a trivial job with a soldering iron to make one. Instead of waiting days, you just need one trip to local electronics shop to get a diode.
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« Reply #65 on: April 25, 2010, 06:20:19 PM »
anwar
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There are choices in diodes, in terms of power.  I have not opened up the regulator yet (and I am not using it any more, since all the newer servos support 6V), so do not know which one specifically they are using. 

Other than that, just some confidence in basic soldering skills is the other requirement; and knowing the diodes are directional. 

If the above are clear, then absolutely no need to wait.  All are basics, but important.
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« Reply #66 on: May 16, 2010, 11:02:17 PM »
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About 2 doz flights on it....getting to do Fig-8's and some basic stall turns now...Am a bit clumsy though!!!

!
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« Reply #67 on: May 16, 2010, 11:50:10 PM »
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About 2 doz flights on it....getting to do Fig-8's and some basic stall turns now...Am a bit clumsy though!!!


lavneet, you seem to be doing great !   well done.
where are the clumsy bits Huh?

chand
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« Reply #68 on: May 16, 2010, 11:51:41 PM »
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cant wait to progress on my build front.....havent had the time recently. Sad
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« Reply #69 on: May 17, 2010, 01:00:28 AM »
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Nice progress Thumbs Up  

Love the field !
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« Reply #70 on: May 17, 2010, 06:52:18 AM »
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Cool! you fly very confidently dude. Yesterday I saw Adarsh flying his 600 FBL. and these things are really monsters and have to be handled really carefully! So much of power in them!  Shocked
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« Reply #71 on: May 17, 2010, 09:49:57 AM »
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lavneet, you seem to be doing great !   well done.
where are the clumsy bits Huh?

I feel a little uncomfortable towards the ends of the 8's when the heli is turning....have this habit of pulling elevator to slow things down fearing it will get too hot on me....makes it look a little less fluid....working on it though!!
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« Reply #72 on: May 17, 2010, 12:17:26 PM »
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Nice progress Thumbs Up 

Love the field !

Thanks buddy, coming from you it gives me a lot of confidence. Yes it is the ultimate RC field possible....a friends polo farm where he breeds horses....1500 feet X 700 feet of perfectly manicured lawns....unfortunately only a max of 2 flyers allowed at a time since it is disturbing to the horses!!
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« Reply #73 on: May 18, 2010, 06:09:37 PM »
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Same Trex video of mine, different soundtrack...remember the Irene Cara song from the 80's - 'What a feeling....take your passion and make it happen'...How apt!!

!
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« Reply #74 on: June 30, 2010, 09:58:32 PM »
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could not resist the temptation to change the canopy to the yummy fusuno air brushed and the landing gear to black Smiley

DSC_2759lolo.jpg
Re: T-Rex 600 Nitro pro, my first Nitro heli build...
* DSC_2759lolo.jpg (52.59 KB, 800x536 - viewed 761 times.)
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« Reply #75 on: June 30, 2010, 10:47:31 PM »
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Mean looking canopy Wink

What is your feedback on the heli so far ? And how much progress on the maneuvers ? Smiley
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« Reply #76 on: July 01, 2010, 11:05:58 AM »
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No flying in over a month!! Been really hot and windy here...
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« Reply #77 on: July 01, 2010, 07:33:45 PM »
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could not resist the temptation to change the canopy to the yummy fusuno air brushed and the landing gear to black Smiley

Man, your heli is looking very S**y!  Thumbs Up Any plans to sell ? Grin Just kidding  Wink
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« Reply #78 on: August 17, 2010, 03:17:02 PM »
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Mean looking canopy Wink

What is your feedback on the heli so far ? And how much progress on the maneuvers ? Smiley

Just to update, been doing good with the trex600. large fig 8's with good banking turns at both ends, stall turns, pirouettes, autorotations etc etc....infact my heli flamed out at about 60 feet in FFF and I managed to bring it down nice and sweet so am quite thrilled. videos soon!!

Cheers
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« Reply #79 on: August 17, 2010, 06:45:04 PM »
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Waiting. What do u mean by flamed?  Head Scratching
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« Reply #80 on: August 18, 2010, 12:52:42 AM »
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means engine shutdown ,this word basically used for jetengines not for piston engines where excess of
1)Fuel flow without enough oxygen to burn inside the combustion chamber ,fuel comes out the engine and burns outside.
2)Sometimes this occurs even if engine running out of fuel! or bad & blocked fuel nozzels.
3)Compressor stall which will lead to (1) point and even when FOD occurs (foregin object insertion).

example of flame out due to bird strike

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« Reply #81 on: August 18, 2010, 12:06:09 PM »
anwar
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"Flame out" in field speak means "engine quit mid-air" Smiley  That is where autorotation skills come into saving a lot of money Wink
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« Reply #82 on: August 18, 2010, 12:44:35 PM »
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"Flame out" in field speak means "engine quit mid-air" Smiley  That is where autorotation skills come into saving a lot of money Wink
Thanks anwar....yes we do use "Flame Out" or "Dead stick" on the RC field for engine quitting mid air. However, 'Dead Stick' isn't quite apt for helis since the stick is quite alive with the collective for autorotating Smiley
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« Reply #83 on: October 24, 2010, 08:07:38 PM »
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This evenings flight video of the Rex 600...


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« Reply #84 on: December 13, 2010, 04:40:19 PM »
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« Reply #85 on: December 13, 2010, 06:06:56 PM »
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Good to see you taking it step by step Thumbs Up 

Try to land (carefully) with the nose a tiny bit earlier than the tail... (as if there is a SMALL amount of forward elevator).  It helps the tail blades from hitting the ground first, and subsequent issues.  If you over do it, it again causes the tail to slam down, which is also not good.
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« Reply #86 on: December 13, 2010, 06:30:33 PM »
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I flare it around 4-5 feet up (aft cyclic and some collective) and then level it out after the speed has bled (fwd cyclic) and settle her down level with full collective (rather than the slight nose down). By the time it touches down, 1. the head-speed is extremely low, 2. there is no power driving the rotors(thr hold) and 3. I have consciously loosened the tail rotor blades in the grips. Had perfect results on the 50 or so autos I have done. Even if the fin does ever happen to touch first, there is little chance of stripping the bevels....
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« Reply #87 on: December 13, 2010, 06:54:50 PM »
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This is an issue when you do them from 100+ feet, on solid ground.  The loose tail blades is the first line of defense.  Getting into the habit helps.  Bleeding the blade speed close to nil is also something to be careful about.

Your grassy field is an advantage !
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