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« on: April 27, 2010, 11:29:38 PM »
second_chance
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hi everyone

just sharing a few pics of my trex 600 build process. as of now i have no clue when will i be able to get this heli airborne due to time constraints. nevertheless, a small effort from me ! as you can seen that most of the job has been done and very little remains.

some of the details -

metal rotor assembly
ys50 with hatori muffler
aligh 2 in 1 regulator (stock)
1900mah align lipo (stock)
600mm carbon fiber blades
aerospire multigov pro governor
futaba 401 gyro
align 610 on cyclics
align 650 on rudder
futaba 3151 on throttle
spectrum 7ch rx

............cant think of anything else  Roll Eyes
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« Reply #1 on: April 27, 2010, 11:30:27 PM »
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 Smiley

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« Reply #2 on: April 27, 2010, 11:31:19 PM »
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the work horse !  ys 50

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« Reply #3 on: April 27, 2010, 11:32:25 PM »
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upgraded metal rotor assembly

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« Reply #4 on: April 27, 2010, 11:33:08 PM »
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plumbing job  Smiley

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« Reply #5 on: April 27, 2010, 11:34:16 PM »
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more to come..............
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« Reply #6 on: April 27, 2010, 11:41:07 PM »
anwar
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Another Trex 600N Thumbs Up

So Align has started invading India too !  Too bad we really do not have a distributor yet Sad

plumbing job  Smiley

Looks like your filter may be going in the wrong direction.  There is an "clear-colored" arrow on the filter case, that should indicate the flow of fuel from the tank to the carb (so the tip of the arrow should point towards the carb).  For further confirmation, open up the filter, and you will find a little long cup like filter with one end open and the other end covered with the sieved cloth.  The open end should be towards the tank and the sieved end should be towards the carb.  You should check this filter every once in a while once you start flying too.

All the best for the maiden Thumbs Up
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« Reply #7 on: April 27, 2010, 11:43:55 PM »
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And do not forget to leave the tail blades loose (enough for them to fall freely on their own weight).  That is the biggest pain with these helis. 

Glad to see another Multigov user Smiley
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« Reply #8 on: April 27, 2010, 11:44:43 PM »
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hey

thanks for pointing out.......sometimes its a good idea to put up these posts from where you could learn from others.
will correct it right away !
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« Reply #9 on: April 27, 2010, 11:48:05 PM »
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And do not forget to leave the tail blades loose (enough for them to fall freely on their own weight).  That is the biggest pain with these helis. 

Glad to see another Multigov user Smiley

yes i have left the blades loose.

multigov pro is so easy to setup. it just falls into place. no complicated blinkers or counts or led s to watch for. looking back i made a mistake investing in csm revlocks, throttle jockeys and ace zero alpha's. it just took a minute to go thru the gov setup.
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« Reply #10 on: April 27, 2010, 11:51:29 PM »
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must confess that i am thoroughly enjoying setting up the trex as compared to my raptors. i look forward to the time that i can get with it.
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« Reply #11 on: April 27, 2010, 11:57:53 PM »
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Also, line that feeds the crankcase pressure to the tank seems to be rubbing against the edge of the frame, which is dangerous.  Take some fine sandpaper (or a nice file will also do), and file off the edge of the frame to make it a smooth/curved edge instead of the razor sharp edge.  Some people do it for all edges across the frame before they start the build.
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« Reply #12 on: April 28, 2010, 11:19:19 AM »
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hey i just finished building and test flying the NP600 last week. I have the sema align 2 in 1 setup and have placed my switch/monitor on the bottom horizontal CF frame instead.....didn't want the wire to go across the engine!!

Oh, and Anwar, the vibrations have disappeared completely now....loosening the tail blades was one of the things I did too!!!
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« Reply #13 on: April 28, 2010, 11:40:26 AM »
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hi lavneet

i was following your posts closely as i had my kit in front of me but no time on hand. finally i could not resist opening the box and going ahead.
how come the tail blades are such an issue as i havent had this trouble with the raptors. or is it the difference because of the torque tube / belt transmissions ?













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« Reply #14 on: April 28, 2010, 11:47:55 AM »
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I don't know why, but loosening it gives it some give and seems to help with vibrations. I have made sure that neither my main nor my tail blades are overtightened and would just about fall under their own weight...
Cheers
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« Reply #15 on: April 28, 2010, 11:50:09 AM »
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Also, line that feeds the crankcase pressure to the tank seems to be rubbing against the edge of the frame, which is dangerous.  Take some fine sandpaper (or a nice file will also do), and file off the edge of the frame to make it a smooth/curved edge instead of the razor sharp edge.  Some people do it for all edges across the frame before they start the build.

I have a better idea....I have used it everywhere the wiring or tubing rubs against the sharp frame edges.
Slit silicone tubing from one side along its length and just wrap it across the frame edge. A dab of cyno in the corners holds it in place and does not expose the wires / tubing to the sharp edges. It looks neat and is a fool-proof method....will post some close-ups if you want...
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« Reply #16 on: April 28, 2010, 12:05:46 PM »
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hey i just finished building and test flying the NP600 last week. I have the sema align 2 in 1 setup and have placed my switch/monitor on the bottom horizontal CF frame instead.....didn't want the wire to go across the engine!!

Lots of folks including me have wired it just like Chand (second_chance), no issues with that as long as you route the wires properly and secure them.  Whatever is convenient works, just need the switch to be accessible, and need to see the voltage monitor LEDs easily.
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« Reply #17 on: April 28, 2010, 12:09:14 PM »
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I have a better idea....
Slit silicone tubing from one side along its length and just wrap it across the frame edge. A dab of cyno in the corners holds it in place and does not expose the wires / tubing to the sharp edges.

That is the other common solution.  Two reasons why it may be sub-optimal... 1. Once you start flying tail-out inverted etc, exhaust will start getting into these areas more and more, and cyano/glue that holds that tube may come off (not a big deal at all) and 2. it looks a bit ugly unless you have black tubing Grin
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« Reply #18 on: April 28, 2010, 12:10:54 PM »
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I don't know why, but loosening it gives it some give and seems to help with vibrations. I have made sure that neither my main nor my tail blades are overtightened and would just about fall under their own weight...
Cheers

You don't want the main blades too loose. Chances of boom strikes increase, especially when you botch autos.
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« Reply #19 on: April 28, 2010, 12:18:52 PM »
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That is the other common solution.  Two reasons why it may be sub-optimal... 1. Once you start flying tail-out inverted etc, exhaust will start getting into these areas more and more, and cyano/glue that holds that tube may come off (not a big deal at all) and 2. it looks a big ugly unless you have black tubing Grin

These are stock photos from the net and mine are not visible from the outside at all!!

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« Reply #20 on: April 28, 2010, 12:44:31 PM »
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anwar

i re checked the filter direction and the tip of the arrow is pointing towards the carb. its visible in the second plumbing pic aswell. however it seems to be the mistake from the company itself. they have wrongly placed the internal mesh filter or maybe the direction of the arrow is wrong.
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« Reply #21 on: April 28, 2010, 12:56:43 PM »
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as you can see in my first pic, i have used red silicon tubing at the place where the governor wire proceeds towards the regulator side.
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« Reply #22 on: April 28, 2010, 09:04:11 PM »
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this time i decieded to go in for the MULTIGOV PRO from Aerospire Corp. the setup cannot be any simpler.

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« Reply #23 on: April 28, 2010, 09:12:42 PM »
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some more

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« Reply #24 on: April 29, 2010, 11:57:58 AM »
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Split out the discussion about Triflow lube into the thread about lubes/grease for helis.

http://www.rcindia.org/helis/grease-types-for-heli/msg20008/#msg20008
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