hi everyone

just sharing a few pics of my trex 600 build process. as of now i have no clue when will i be able to get this heli airborne due to time constraints. nevertheless, a small effort from me ! as you can seen that most of the job has been done and very little remains.

some of the details -

metal rotor assembly
ys50 with hatori muffler
aligh 2 in 1 regulator (stock)
1900mah align lipo (stock)
600mm carbon fiber blades
aerospire multigov pro governor
futaba 401 gyro
align 610 on cyclics
align 650 on rudder
futaba 3151 on throttle
spectrum 7ch rx

............cant think of anything else  

 

the work horse !  ys 50

upgraded metal rotor assembly

plumbing job  

more to come..............

Another Trex 600N

So Align has started invading India too !  Too bad we really do not have a distributor yet


Looks like your filter may be going in the wrong direction.  There is an "clear-colored" arrow on the filter case, that should indicate the flow of fuel from the tank to the carb (so the tip of the arrow should point towards the carb).  For further confirmation, open up the filter, and you will find a little long cup like filter with one end open and the other end covered with the sieved cloth.  The open end should be towards the tank and the sieved end should be towards the carb.  You should check this filter every once in a while once you start flying too.

All the best for the maiden

And do not forget to leave the tail blades loose (enough for them to fall freely on their own weight).  That is the biggest pain with these helis. 

Glad to see another Multigov user

hey

thanks for pointing out.......sometimes its a good idea to put up these posts from where you could learn from others.
will correct it right away !

yes i have left the blades loose.

multigov pro is so easy to setup. it just falls into place. no complicated blinkers or counts or led s to watch for. looking back i made a mistake investing in csm revlocks, throttle jockeys and ace zero alpha's. it just took a minute to go thru the gov setup.

must confess that i am thoroughly enjoying setting up the trex as compared to my raptors. i look forward to the time that i can get with it.

Also, line that feeds the crankcase pressure to the tank seems to be rubbing against the edge of the frame, which is dangerous.  Take some fine sandpaper (or a nice file will also do), and file off the edge of the frame to make it a smooth/curved edge instead of the razor sharp edge.  Some people do it for all edges across the frame before they start the build.

hey i just finished building and test flying the NP600 last week. I have the sema align 2 in 1 setup and have placed my switch/monitor on the bottom horizontal CF frame instead.....didn't want the wire to go across the engine!!

Oh, and Anwar, the vibrations have disappeared completely now....loosening the tail blades was one of the things I did too!!!

hi lavneet

i was following your posts closely as i had my kit in front of me but no time on hand. finally i could not resist opening the box and going ahead.
how come the tail blades are such an issue as i havent had this trouble with the raptors. or is it the difference because of the torque tube / belt transmissions ?

I don't know why, but loosening it gives it some give and seems to help with vibrations. I have made sure that neither my main nor my tail blades are overtightened and would just about fall under their own weight...
Cheers

I have a better idea....I have used it everywhere the wiring or tubing rubs against the sharp frame edges.
Slit silicone tubing from one side along its length and just wrap it across the frame edge. A dab of cyno in the corners holds it in place and does not expose the wires / tubing to the sharp edges. It looks neat and is a fool-proof method....will post some close-ups if you want...

Lots of folks including me have wired it just like Chand (second_chance), no issues with that as long as you route the wires properly and secure them.  Whatever is convenient works, just need the switch to be accessible, and need to see the voltage monitor LEDs easily.

That is the other common solution.  Two reasons why it may be sub-optimal... 1. Once you start flying tail-out inverted etc, exhaust will start getting into these areas more and more, and cyano/glue that holds that tube may come off (not a big deal at all) and 2. it looks a bit ugly unless you have black tubing

You don't want the main blades too loose. Chances of boom strikes increase, especially when you botch autos.

These are stock photos from the net and mine are not visible from the outside at all!!

anwar

i re checked the filter direction and the tip of the arrow is pointing towards the carb. its visible in the second plumbing pic aswell. however it seems to be the mistake from the company itself. they have wrongly placed the internal mesh filter or maybe the direction of the arrow is wrong.

as you can see in my first pic, i have used red silicon tubing at the place where the governor wire proceeds towards the regulator side.

this time i decieded to go in for the MULTIGOV PRO from Aerospire Corp. the setup cannot be any simpler.

some more

Split out the discussion about Triflow lube into the thread about lubes/grease for helis.

http://www.rcindia.org/helis/grease-types-for-heli/msg20008/#msg20008

some more pics setting up the governor......

sensor installed above the fan shroud.....

the chimney - hatori 546

What packing (like gasket) did you use between the engine and the muffler ?

the usual silicone rtv. have been using the same from day one.

also used a little bit on the pressure feed hole before bolting the screw on as there would be no fuel tubing going to the muffler.

Do they ship the Align "towel" in all kits now, or did you get it separately  

i got this free with some purchases i made in a LHS when i was in london. i don't think the kits come with it.

but if they do ship one with a kit then let me know, it will be an excuse to buy another towel 

It is better to use "overspeed limiter" "mode in normal mode and keep it to some high value like (1900 or 2000), so that you can understand the true behavior of the engine in normal mode.  If you enforce the speed limit using the full governor mode, you may not understand the behavior of the engine at higher rpms.  Also, if you keep the engine in fully governed mode for normal flying, there will be a jump in the throttle when the governor engages and disengages around 30% throttle (this is what I remember experiencing, but that was about 2 years ago).

Also, can you post some pictures of the sensor mount after removing the rudder linkage ? It is blocking the view.

Yep, the newer kits do come with it : http://www.align.com.tw/shop/product_info.php?cPath=22_25&products_id=2441 (look under "Accessories", it is listed as "Repair Towel")

You just shot yourself on the foot   Let us know when you order another kit

my settings at present are

normal - wont engage
idle 1 - 1900
idle 2 - 2000

do you reccommend any changes or would it suffice.

 i have used a ziptie with a drop of ca to secure it to the frame and its holding in place. will post new pics tonight of the sensor mount with out the tail linkage.

well thats for a 700 !    i am still on the 600 series. 

Excuses 

yep excuses

the difference between the 600 and the 700 is just the "towel"  

anwar, i would like you to have a look at this link by bob finless

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=94972&page=2

This is good.  I was commenting based on the screenshot.  I also have governor disengaged in normal mode.  Should you choose to use the governor in normal mode, the "overspeed limiter" mode would be better.

The debate between "fully governed" versus "overspeed limiting" (for idel1 and idle2) is a matter of personal preference, from what I have seen/tested.  On the Multigov, I run fully governed on idle1 and idl2 (currently 2000 and 2100), and have no governor at all on ide3 where I have a 3d throttle curve just in case the governor fails (magnets fall off etc, or for engine testing).

Always put a backup throttle curve even in idle1 and idle2 (and don't make it 100-100-100; something like 100-65-100, or 100-70-100) to help you handle governor failures. It seems like the Multigov also uses this backup curve in its adjustment calculations.

About the zip tie alone, I would be worried about the zip tie rubbing against sharp frame sides and snapping later on.  Other than that, if it holds the sensor in place, you are good.  I always used the spare screws and plastic nuts used for mounting servos.

yes i have the backups at 100 - 65 - 100 and have thr curv set thru all modes incase of faliure. i wonder why align went the other way around (mount) for the sensor setup  

the shots were taken why i had just turned on the gov menu. i dialed in the settings later, pardon me for the misleading pic.

as asked for earlier, here are the pics of the sensor with out the tail linkage.........

oke, sorry for being a little off topic, but here are the pics of my simple plumbing, 2 in 1 switch  placement and fuel tubing application to avoid fraying of the wires

lavneet, i dont think this is a 401 you are running on.. ? i think you are using the gy520...(a very good gyro )

Yes, it is the GY-520...

hi lavneet

thanks for the pics, though the switch section seems a little close to the engine, i will try placing it the same way on mine and let you know.

thats a good idea for the wires. fortunately i am not running wires for the electronics from the outside apart from the governor for which i have provided a similar contraption on the front side of the frame.

yup, you're right Chand, it is a bit close to the engine but the plastic from the fan housing forms a kind of buffer. Also, the heat from the engine does not seem to reach the box. I had pondered over the idea of placing it on the frame across the engine but  I just thought this looked really neat. Also, since the base where I have put it is really narrow, remember to use velcro AND a tie to secure it nicely.
Cheers

The other thing to consider in this case (not a big deal, but something to be careful about) is the possibility of fuel spills while refueling.  The vertical mount on the frame would put the 2-in-1 regulator farther away from such an eventuality.

hi everyone,

trying to revive this post again. had some time on hand, so quickly sat down to finish with the last few bits and bobs.

at home : gyro 401 and the ar7000

canopy comes on !

cant do without some bling...so these are the quick uk canopy support mounts

LAVNEET !

thanks to you that i started work on it after your call.

cheers

chand

Is the muffler pressure line not connected ?  In the pictures, it does not seem to be routed through the hole provided for that purpose.

Also, in one of the pictures, the fuel refill line seems unusually long (enough to get caught under the landing skids).

She looks beautiful, and ready to lift off !  Neat wiring too

I am glad you did, I can call you every day now to make sure you finish!! BTW may come to pune for a few days next month. Lets connect. Plan is still fluid though.
cheers

since its a ys engine, i wont need to connect the muffler feed as it works on the tank pressure.
the second feed had been tied down to the underneath of the landing skids and will not come in the way. i kept it long so that its convinent for me to remove the stopper each time before i refuel. since the tank is under pressure, the second feed has to be unplugged first.

sure do let me know

Ah.. forgot the YS "pumped" part ! Guess you have to finish it in one shot now !

Know nothing much about the nitro machines. Got curious to know how long it flies on a tank full of fuel. Contemplating a 600/700N loot from the nearest hobbyshop, when the next tornado strikes


Anwar ji, how much airtime do you get  on your 600N full tank?

Depends on your style of flying, and engine settings.  I have my timer at 7:30 minutes.  A header tank adds close to a minute extra.

Oh, I was thinking the nitro machines flew till your neck aches (if you ignore engine/motor temperature constraints, I mean). So, it's kinda a similar story(almost) as batteries you mean?

Those are gassers, not nitro.  Some fly for like 25 minutes a tank (I have flown at least one like that).  You can get close to 11 or so minutes on a Trex 600, if you do scale type flying, and a well tuned engine.  Electrics typically don't last that long.  The average flight time of a Trex 600E doing 3D is about 5 minutes.

Does align have gassers? Only nitros and electric right? Guess it's time I read a bit 
And can we feed a gasser while in Kerala?

It has been rumored that they are going to come out with one soon.

http://www.rcheliresource.com/breaking-align-t-rex-700-gasser/

Yes, gassers would be very nice, where ever in India !  All you need is regular petrol and 2T oil.

Oh,you blessed my ignorance. I thought they always accepted only air grade gasoline!!

In that case, getting a gasser is what you suggest?(Not soon though)

Will try the link, thanks.