RC India

Hi everyone,
Way back in the late 60s, I used to run an Aeromodelling Club in my school in Delhi.
RC was unknown to us, and we could not afford an engine.
Forget engines, we couldn’t even afford a ‘Chaser’ (Rs 5), so bought ‘Bobni’ (Rs 1.25)
Club members used to pool resources to get 3 sheets of 1/16, and one each of 1/8 and 1/32.
Enough to make 5-6 chuck gliders.
The challenge was 10 seconds, and a few of my classmates did claim the prize I sponsored (Rs 10)!
In retrospect I think it a wonder that my father supported my activities!

The first chuck glider that we could build and fly successfully was based on a plan called ‘Tich’, by Father Carlson of Calcutta, published in around 1967-68 in a magazine called Indian Modeller.
None of the kits like Spitfire, Sailaway etc could match it.
The Yellow Bird was far better in performance, but far beyond our budget.

That plan is of course long gone.

As a tribute to Fr Carlson, and based on old memories of his ‘Tich’, I’ve drawn up a plan, and named it ‘1st Chuck’

You can build it with just one sheet of 1/16” or 1.5mm or 2mm balsa.
Use it for the wing. Sand it down for the tail feathers. Laminate it for the fuselage.

Hope you like it  ;D

Here’s the plan

And theparts

so wonderful yet simple !

I once built and flew from a balsa kit of a hunter, of course, manufactured from some company from Kolkata, it was similar to your plan, but it too flew superbly.

And sir, your story behind the chuch glider brings tears to my eyes, because those were the golden times. We needed very little to be winners.

Completed (and test flown indoors)
7gms without nose weight, 9gms ready to fly.

CG can be 30-35mm behind leading edge, instead of 25mm shown on the plan.

K K sir , can you please give some knowledge about weight at nose?

Mine needed 2gms. Use hot glue, plasticine or solder wire...

KK sir what is its glide time??
really interested in gliders due to the challange

Hi Kk ,
watching this thread for the last few days. Just wanted to say that you have captured the essence
of the Tich quite well

I've built quite a few of them over the years, and nothing can beat one for some quiet simple fun.

Keep at it boss .... At this rate quite a few chaps will become interested in building

@saikat,
Thanks for the kind words.
If the rain stops for 2 days, I’ll make a video on how to launch.

Meanwhile trying to think up another new initiative...
Regards

Why don't you build 10-12 kits Iyer sir? I'll buy 2, committed!

It's difficult to get material for just one model

@sanjayrai55,

Sir, you must be clairvouyant !
 ;D

And a new competition, based on the kit. Everyone has a level playing field

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

KK-- Just went through this thread. Your walk down memory lane brought back memories of my fledgling years in aeromodelling.
The India hobby Centre store was walking distance from my school in Bombay. As you said most stuff was out of reach. Initially bought the Bobni and thereafter the ready to fly Spitfire. Wonder how they gave it the ideal camber on the wing

Sorry that last post got sent before I completed it.
I have a few kits of some assorted a chuck/catapult gliders Igot from Rishi of IHC Kolkata.
Can despatch it to anyone interested at same cost (almost 5years ago).

The single design contest is a good idea. They have such contests in the west regularly.  I initiated one such contest for indoor rubberpower with the AMAI -- got zilch response. It was an idea ahead of its time Iguess.

Anant

KK--Do you want me to post the Bobni plan.

Nice! In fact, a couple of friends and I used to do the same, walk down to IHC during the lunch break! Was quite a walk, we would normally run back! Which school were you in Anant; I was in Cathedral & John Connon

Hello all. I too started with a plan of tick.... Thereafter went in to gaggan, yellow bird and a few more. 

Well even today have a couple of chuck gliders....
Next time at BFF will get them again

You did get some a couple of Sundays ago :)

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

Hi Sanjay,
I studied at the St Xaviers near Metro theatre.
Was staying near the Regal theatre. Had some friends from your school.

Great, Anant. You must have been with Sunil Gavaskar!

Yes..... Getting a few more

Gavaskar was a few years senior but have seen him batting at the interschools at Azad Maidan that was stones throw from school. At short break he would be around 50 runs, at lunch break he would be around a century and at end of school when we went to the ground he would still be at the crease. He was a one man army. And there was Milind Rege -- a superb bowler whose cricketing career came to a premature end due to some medical problem.

Wow! Lucky you!  {:)}

Saw him only once, in Brabourne. Nearly kidnapped a friend to get a pass, that too only for half a day!

Anyway, no more hijacking KK Iyer's thread! Iyer saheb! Banao 12 models and competition!

Yes
 was about to suggest to Sanjay that this personal interaction should be taken to the PM board.
Apologies for the digression.

As the Weasley twins said, Mischief Managed
Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

@sanjayrai55,
@glidiator,
The 1st Chuck is not waterproof at present. Test flying it now will only wet and warp it.
Waiting for a sunny day to apply PU finish.

For a kit, there are two options
1. Raw pieces as we were used to (only balsa with outlines drawn)
2. Really finished, needing only sticking on the wings and stab to the fuselage

By really finished, I mean really professional quality, including, for example,
1. Taper sanded into wings
2. Aerofoil sanded in
3. Dope/PU finish on all parts
4. Approximate nose weight incorporated
5. Etc

I’m wondering if what is needed in a starter combo, is one raw kit for beginners to start with, along with a really finished one, that will tell them what to aim for.
And whether a catapult option is better, as not many may know of a full power chuck launch...

Also, never having sold anything in my life, I find it a bit awkward to ask for a few hundred rupees.
At the same time, I’ve learnt that anything offered free is considered worthless...

Look forward to advice as both of you know exactly what I mean!
Regards

I gather you will make kits for sale.
The IHC kits I have are ones where the parts are cut to shape but you need to do the standing,  stick wing halves with dihedral, etc.
Yes CLG will give much longer flights that will give more satisfaction for beginners.
And if you are going to give a professionally finished model, then a couple of hundred will not compensate for the time spent in making this model.

@K K Iyer sir,
You can make both kind of kits. Like you said,

Type 1 for the competition. Balsa with lines drawn and pieces cut. Buyer should do the sanding, creating dihedral, and final finishing.
Type 2 for beginners. They only have to stick the pieces and adjust weight before flying. (this should not be used for the competition. May have a non erasable ink marking)

People can buy one of each and try to build the type 1 kit themselves, with the type 2 kit as a guide that has been built by an expert.

You may consider the cost as the registration payment for the competition. Not as direct selling. Those who buy the type 1 kit automatically gets a ticket for competing.

Talking of kits.
Yesterday I did some archeologic digging of my Aeromodelling cupboard. Found stuff I had long forgotten about.
Found the following
Original IHC Bobni kit and copies of the Bobni plans.
A couple of IHC Tich kits, Tailwind and Tiny Tot kits
RTF Chaser, Spitfire, and folding wing CLG Spitfire all of IHC.
BABIX kits, Sailaway kit, Yellow bird kits,
1.5cc & 2cc IHC MILLS Diesels.
Some Chinese foam profile rubber powered RTf models (Mustang).
Plan to get down to to converting these kits. Now that I have the TAN rubber the Bobni and BABIX can be made to fly good durations. Also if the Bobni and BABIX wing ribs are given a camber instead of straight ribs it will improve the flight characteristics I feel.
Have some kits in a carton in the garage. Mainly yellow Bird and Tiny tot .Will send kits to those who wanted shortly.
Was watching some YouTube videos of indoor CLG. The model hints at its peak height and then flies straight for some distance before  beginning flying circles.
Those serious about Indoor HLG, CLG, see the stuff on the AMAglider.com

The IHC rubber Power models did not come with the TAN rubber so suffered in terms of performance. I plan to see what improvement is there since I have TAN rubber of various widths.
The Bobni with cambered wing is like a reduced size Hangar Rat. In fact there is a model called Minnie Mouse which is a scaled down Hangar Rat.

@glidiator,
Sir, pl see new thread
http://www.rcindia.org/kites-trains-free-flight-and-all-others/1st-rubber-power-model/msg291294/#msg291294

Well gladiator... You sitting on s treasure.... The yellow bird was my personal favourite

Oh boy Glidiator .... Now those names evoke some nostalgic memories !

If memory serves right .... then you will need more than TAN rubber to get decent flights.

The plastic props were wobbly , the tissue was heavy and so were the wheels and uc wire

Incidentally .... Does anyone know ? Were all the IHC kits manufactured at Calcutta or different locations ?

From my interactions with Rishi of IHC I gathered that his manufacturing facility was all in Kolkata.

Applying Finish.
Did one coat of dope (NC Clear) mixed with some balsa sawdust yesterday.
Not so good as the balsa dust got lumpy. Talcum powder would’ve been better. And more thinner.
Sanded most of it off, but still blotchy.

Tried a bit of grey automotive sealer on the fuselage, but stopped due to weight addition.
Sanded it off but traces remain, making the fuselage ugly.

Today applied a coat of touchwood with a brush.
And immediately wiped the wing, stab and fin with toilet paper to minimize buildup.
Should have wiped the fuselage too. Not doing so added 1 gm unnecessarily (that’s 15%!)

Meanwhile, see my balancing jig. Two toothpicks stuck in a piece of thermocol!  ;D

Dear Mr. Iyer,

Have you ever tried automotive sealer as nose weight as modelling clay becomes brittle after few months and does not hold on to fuselage after touch down or hitting an obstacle.

@dreamliner,
Thanks for your interest.
Once I’ve found the approximate CG using plasticine, I usually replace it with a few turns of solder wire stuck with CA on small models.
For larger models, I melt down tyre balancing lead weights, free from the local tyre balancing shop  ;D

A blob of hot glue is also a good idea. Put a bit extra, then reduce by cutting...
Regards

Opened a drawer.
Found a bottle of Red...

@KK
Nice embellishment.
For balancing jig instead of toothpick can use two pencils with eraser top. Cut eraser ends to chisel tip on which to place model for balance checking.

@saikat-- Tissue also tends to warp especially in areas where humidity is high like coastal areas. Yes heavier too. That grocery bag option is good if you are not aiming for serious competition flying where weight is critical.

@shobhit -- I think IHC will still supply kits of Yellow bird and maybe others. Will ask Rishi.

Finally got down to taking pics of the old time favourites.
The Spitfire and the folding wing model -- was it also called the Spitfire though the dimensions are a bit different from the chuck glider. Both from IHC purchased God knows when- atleast 20 years ago I think when I relocated to Goa after hanging up my boots from the Navy and got down to reviving my school days hobby. I bought these to use as demo models for workshops I planned to conduct for the local kids.

Don’t recall the second one being called Spitfire.
It’s an Interceptor (Jim Walker, 1939)

http://www.americanjuniorclassics.com/interceptor/interceptorhistory.htm

Yes KK it was the interceptor.
Some years earlier tried getting the swing wing mechanism parts which was on their site but out of stock. They dont seem to be selling those components separately anymore.
Interesting history. Amazing that an aeromodel was actually used for anti aircraft gun firing practice.

Just a message to say that the Yellow bird kits will soon be despatched to those who asked for it. Have been caught up in some stuff and am now free.

Here is a chuck glider bipe with German WW1 markings, again a kit from Guillows.  It tracks good on glide path with proper balancing.  No bad habits.

I am wondering whether any other chuck bipe kit or plan for chuck bipe exists.

@dreamliner,
Can’t recollect offhand any bipe chuck glider...

Edit:
Looks like you may be an old hand.
Time to come out in the open,
And share your experience...

@kk Iyer
Nowhere close to you.  I am still learning.  Expecting your continuous valuable tips and gain from your building experience.

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First time getting to know of a bike chuck glider.

Guillows used to sell two enemies (Fokker and Sopwith Camel balsa chuck Bipes) together in same pack many years ago.   Have not seen them lately.

@dreamliner,
Come on. Share your knowledge and experience.
Maybe your stock too!  ;D

If interested in chucks, see Arecanaut? thread of ajay sarwan.

Here is my reply to him

@ajay sarwan,
Congratulations.
On reaching the second test of Chuck Glider flying,
Having crossed the first test (finding an approximate CG and getting a smooth glide of 30-40 feet, without stalls and dives). You did pass that test, no? Else you return to stage one!

The second test, or stage, is how to avoid looping in a full power launch.
This has two parts
How to launch
How to avoid looping.

The launch for the first stage is from shoulder height, model held just behind the CG, nose pointed slightly down, aimed at a spot on the ground about 50’ away, and pushed gently straight, without your hand describing an arc.

The power launch is utterly different except for holding the model at the same place, ie, just behind CG.
(I’m assuming you are right handed)
Hold the model lightly.
Keep your wrist loose. Don’t cock it.
Swing your LEFT hand up about 45degrees, while swinging your RIGHT hand down as low and as far back as you can.
Are you holding the model loosely? Is your wrist loose and not cocked?
If so, the model should be banked RIGHT A LOT MORE THAN 90 degrees and pointing UP ~45 deg.
The action is like a discuss throw.
NO ELBOW BEND. ALL JOINTS OF RIGHT HAND LOOSE, FROM SHOULDER TO FINGERS.
Stand facing the wind, wind up your torso till your left hand points into the wind and 45 deg high.
The right hand will be more than 180 deg away, behind your back.
To launch, swing your whole upper body hard left, release the model when your right hand is about horizontal. At release the model should be banked right about 45 deg and pointed up about 45 deg, and going a little to the right of the incoming wind..

This is the way to launch, and enter the second stage of how to cure the looping!

Enough for one post.
I’m copying this to my ‘1st Chuck’ thread, so that others too can see it.

I’ll post ‘how to cure looping’ if there’s enough interest ...

1st Chuck flew away today, and was lost. After 25 seconds from a hand launch! In 20 km wind.
In a successful trial of ‘How to avoid looping’

RIP, Dear Tich, unless a farmer finds you before it rains.

@kk lyer

Sir,  I have attached chuck glider stock pic.   Couple of my gliders damaged over the years due to one reason or the other.  In the pic, I have two wings, stab only as I used fuselage and vert. Stabilizer with wing having tricolour.   I will make another fuselage and vert stab out of balsa.

@KK. That was a pretty comprehensive instruction on launching a HLG. As emphasised by you aim in a full power launch is to get immediate transition at the end of the upward trajectory to a level flight without looping.

https://youtu.be/mbuN5icVDfM

https://youtu.be/AmvOfClmcz0

A couple of videos that Wii give an idea of HLG and CLG flights and trimming.

Aah
1. No tears for my lost fly away 1st Chuck  :(
2. Dreamliner, you have two obvious volunteers for building your kits  ;D
3. Glidiator, your posts are all Top End, (ie, where one can reach)
4. Mine are Bottom End, (ie, where one can start) !

Have built the Guillows Dehavilland.
Have a Javelin still in box.
Somehow never got down to serious trimming flights of the Dehavilland. Tried it indoor but it needs a large turning circle. Fit for outdoors only.

"Glidiator, your posts are all Top End, (ie, where one can reach"
The Science Olympiad stuff I put up should be achievable by beginners with a little dedication. School kids are doing that in USA.
I'm happy your thread has generated some responses.

@Glidiator.  Adding slight weight on wing tip behind the main chord will reduce the turning radius.

That will cause a bank which then causes a turn.
The idea in gliders is to try and achieve what you want without weight addition so that the AUW is optimal and thereby sink rate is best.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qE0ty-SgpnY&list=UUM-DCc46GbAP3bXPYTb1Hfw&index=16

Friends just have a look here what i made.
it gives me long travel with less decent rate. that is a nice glide ratio. 

Check out this link for trimming CLGs

https://youtu.be/XOJ2Be1WSFw

@glidiator sir,
I’m trying to develop this thread based on personal experience.
As opposed to providing links to what third parties have done.
There is of course any amount of stuff available on the net to anyone diligent enough to search.
Regards

Yup.  Nothing like doing it yourself.
This thread has rekindled my interest in HLG, CLG.
Have 4/5 gliders that have never been flown seriously after building. Sailaway, Yellowbird, Tich, Tailwind, Tiny Tot and one or two  more.
Waiting for clear weather to try them out - the rains this year seem never ending.

Flight path of this chuck glider was parabolic despite of proper balancing.  Added piece of wood after sanding and glued as slightly up elevator.  This arrested the nose dive and behaved nicely on glide path, of course, at the cost of some weight addition.

@dreamliner,
Try a larger stab, sanded thinner...

“Flaps Down”

This naughty boy is tamed further.  Introduced flaps.  Noticed how Physics helped in smoother glide even at slower speeds.  If thrown at higher speed at slightly nose down, it climbs and hits the wall of living room.  Will see how it behaves outdoors shortly.

The effects of control surface are more pronounced at higher air speeds.
Vector of forces if my high school physics serves me right.
In CLG the attempt is to reverse the effect of flaps so they use flexible flaps. The launch speed of CLG is many times higher than its cruising speed. So flexible flaps straighten out at launch due to force of air flow and have minimal effect and when speed reduces to a glide the flaps bend back to original angle give better lift and lower sink rate.

Hi all,

Came across this YouTube video on making an F1N HLG. His design has 59 sec flights which is tremendous.
The leading edge is balsa. Wonder what the grey flexible sheet is that is curved to give a camber.

https://youtu.be/tfevm4y-KZ0

Incidentally he sells this glider as a kit. Costs around $40 — so it is obviously for the serious HLG competitors.

Hi all,
Had sent the Yellow Bird Kits to a few guys.
Don’t see any build pics or flight videos .
Have the kits bren used??

Sir,
A lesson I’ve (not fully) learnt.
In India, anything FREE is not considered a GIFT.
It’s considered WORTHLESS.

I've received the kit. (No Iyer sir, although much appreciated due to it's rarity, not Free) Will be starting it after I complete some ongoing constructions

Have I sent my bank details to those who needed it.
Don’t remember.
Anyway the aim was to kindle some interest in free flight.
Looking forward to some build pics and flight videos.
Anant

put some 5 gram micro motor 200 mah lipo 2 grams servos and 3 grams RX and you are good to go.

Do you sell it as well ?

That F1N is available as a kit for $50.
So quite obviously only someone really serious about this category will invest in something like this.
Here is a flight video of this model by Joshua Finn of J&H aerospace.
One important aspect is how the model transitions at the top of its climb to level flight without losing height. The other aspect visible in the video is the low sink rate of the model.

https://youtu.be/KMymNf9rAcA

great adn nic poesraes

@ glidiator sir,
Great video of fantastic flying by a superb model!
But $80-90 with shipping :-\

Here’s a clip you may have seen earlier. My TLG1, launched by my friend Harveer, who’s half my age and has a much stronger arm...
Nowhere near the same standard, but perhaps not too bad  ;D

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=I24AufBPt4I

Edit:
Deleted reference to wrong video.

Built this a few months ago
http://www.rcindia.org/kites-trains-free-flight-and-all-others/build-log-iambus-2/

(Pic not uploading for some reason)

Here’s a pic of the 1945 Iambus II
Plans on outerzone.co.uk, (with pics of my model ;D)

Pretty good flight KK. The satisfaction is in the construction and trimming to get a good flight. Came back like a boomerang. If one gets a thermal then the model will keep in the air for a good while longer.

The Iambus II looks exactly like the forefather of the FPG 9 that I use as an introductory model in my workshops.
Simple fail proof model made from a simple foam plate. NASA is credited with its design. Looks like somebody in NASA did some research on vintage models.
Anant

Happened to log in after a long long time and came upon this thread. Delighted to see some old stalwarts, still at it. :)

I can't believe that I have forgotten how to post attachments.  :banghead:

This is it!

Part 2 - If anyone wants the PDF plans, please email me @ vikramaditya27@gmail.com.

The plans in actual size.

@vc

“Flight of the Phoenix.”

Hey old buddy Dreamliner! I wonder how many will comprehend the meaning of your post. The Phoenix was hibernating all these years!

VC Sir, Hope you remember the above kit.  Flaps added later. But the model kit witn tricolour wing in my earlier post was sent by you and that model has the best glide of all the gliding ladies that came in my life yet.

Never knew that someone started a thread ‘First chuck glider’ in 2010

And who is this VC?
Someone who stopped looking at this forum 2-3 years ago, after his house got flooded, and still remains one of the top three posters on the forum.

@VC Sir,
Welcome back.
I want to again see the photo of your dogs on cane chairs to avoid the flood waters...

During your absence, RCI became almost a customs clearance portal for things far removed from model airplanes or RC.

Fortunately I seem to have stemmed it somewhat, despite some gaalis...

Gentlemen, please welcome VC, much missed, back to the fold again.

Iyer Sir, he got a beautiful traditional fountain in his yard too as far as I remember.

Which kit are you talking about Dreamliner?

K.K. Iyer Sahab, I am humbled and emotionally affected by your post. It is amazing that you remember so much. As far as our doggy family is concerned,Chocolate passed away 31st. March 2015, Patchy is hale and hearty. The one person that I have missed the most is you Sir. I hope I can make amends now. By the way, we also have a feline member in our family. He is Sakura and I shall introdiuce you to him soon.

17 inches span with elliptical wing model named Zephyr.

@glidiator
@vc

You guys may not know each other.
Please do connect up.
Regards

@VC
Here’s a faded drawing of my friend Chocky and my sister that I drew in 1979.

That Japanese fountain or Shishi Odishi has been destroyed due to the ravages of time. Building a new one now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZyX9xZTn7U8&t=76s

Please email that sketch of Chocky to me @ vikramaditya27@gmail.com

Current 8 year old incarnation as ‘Golu’

And in the last year or so, a Pilatus, a Druine Turbulent, a 7gm Iambus II, and a 3.5gm one...

Hope your return will activate Gusty sir, Sundaram sir and Saikat sir...

Spectacular return of the prodigal VC  :goodjob: {:)} {:)} {:)}

Some gliders made over the last couple of years. All (apparent) gaps at the wing root and other places were filled with good old  Wembley's Quickfix adhesive.

Btw, Wembley's doesn't sponsor me in any way, but it is a darn good product for balsa.

Some more Balsa Chuck Gliders.

One more - the Queen Bee.

VC SIR...WELCOME BACK......AND HE's BACK WITH A BANG...:D..

beautiful collection sirji…. :hatsoff: :hatsoff: :bow:

Beautiful, VC. Some flying videos now

hello gentlemen,
As per my word to Anant sir, today I started building the "yellowbird" kit he sent me.
My earlier free flight models were mostly of foam until KK Iyer sent me a "The Tich". It was already cut and also sanded. I only had to glue it.
Now with the yellow bird, I had to do the sanding. With its polyhedral wing and many piece fuselage, it looked complicated at first.

The plane is complete except for the coating and I have some doubts. //Pictures are coming up. //

1. The CG in the blueprint is marked after the trailing edge of the wing :headscratch:  My model's cg is approximately 2 cm before the trailing edge.
    Should I adjust the CG?

2.  My models feels heavy. It is 37 grams.

3. I recently found about this picture varnish.  Can we use this for balsa?
https://www.kokuyocamlin.com/product/painting-mediums/camel-picture-varnish-500ml-100ml-60ml-41-174-11.html (https://www.kokuyocamlin.com/product/painting-mediums/camel-picture-varnish-500ml-100ml-60ml-41-174-11.html)

@ glidiator and KK Iyer:  :hatsoff:  :thanks:

All parts
(https://i.imgur.com/Js37DOm.jpg)

post sanding and fit test
(https://i.imgur.com/7GbbB7A.jpg)

completed fuselage and wing. //
(https://i.imgur.com/gOh6hYi.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/QqsDDoB.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/ePn71W9.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/nWpvGKC.jpg)

Looks good. KK or someone else will be able to advice on putting finishing coat. I am not too well versed in that.
Weight is not critical. It is not an indoor duration model where weight is critical. As an outdoor model it is better if it a bit robust and can then also handle stronger wind conditions.
The main thing is to trim it for a good glide and low sink rate.
Look forward to your finished model and flight videos
Anant

Well.... where did you get the kit of Yellow Bird...... long time since i made it.... well many decades.... 

OK for the finishing.... get some clear lacquer....i.e. automative paint in clear colour.  Any brand.  Generally called Nitro Cellulose (NC) clear varnish.  Dilute it a bit with the NC thinner and apply 2 coats on the model allowing it to dry well as you apply one coat.

The paint will dry and the blasa fibres on the model skin will become really rough and hard.  Use a fine grit sand paper to file off the surfaces and apply the coats again.  Sanding the dried surface before applying the fresh coat.  In about 3 coats you should have a very smooth finish.  May take 4-5 coats if the varnish has been thinned a bit too much.

The model skin will be very smooth with very little increase in weight.

happy flying

@ajay sarwan,

Welcome back.

My 15” span YB weighs 37gms.

What shobit17 sir says is the correct method.
PROVIDED the raw model is light enought to take the weight of the finish!

Avoiding finish enabled me to reduce weight by 50% from 7gms to 3.5gms on my Iambus II...

http://www.rcindia.org/kites-trains-free-flight-and-all-others/build-log-iambus-2/

Moral: delay the finish till after test flying!

@glidiator The plane sinks (actually dives) fast in a gently throw across the room. I guess a catapult launch will help.

@shobbit17 Glidiator sent me a kit.
Thank you. I will try sourcing the lacquer and thinner.

Aye sir. Although the fuse and wing parts are glued using cyanoacrylate; The wing, tail plane and fin are hot glued with the fuselage as the hot glue can flex a bit, so a rough landing will not break the wood surface. And will also help trim the plane.

I will update on the flight tomorrow.

Hot glue weighs a ton . And if you put it in the tail end you will need to add more nose weight and thereby increase overall weight.
Anant

@ajay sarwan,
The only place you can use hot glue in a chuckglider is for nose weight!

See these 9” span identical models.
The rear one is 7 gms, the front one 3.5 gms.

A few drops of hot glue is enough to kill such models.

I understand. I was afraid about breaking the model.
I will remove the hot glue.  :thumbsup:

Here’s a neat version of the plan, thanks to ajay sarwan:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HOzYNH7dreZx1SuN6UatPnLMLY2sk8Ur/view

Hi all,
Best wishes for the new year and May your models touch the sky.
Here are some YouTube links to give you more inputs on trimming indoor Catapult Gliders
It is in 3 parts. Very useful info.
Anant

https://youtu.be/8SmWT-5Ypbs

https://youtu.be/8hvedT8JkYw

https://youtu.be/4YuieEFfFCc