RC India

My first Guillows!

Sanjay Sir, a detailed build thread is requested......I want to replicate this plane in foam, so I'll be following your thread closely.

If possible, kindly share the plans supplied along with the kit, either here or on my email: zaidibilal92@gmail.com

redards
Bilal

Nice kit, full size plans, reasonably good die-cut balsa, hardware/plastic parts, tissue (more about that later)

Guys like me, hathoda-chhaaps, were not created to handle such delicate stuff :D

I would get stuck with cyano to the balsa, on freeing myself would break some off, would bump into it and break, sanding was a major hazard  :rofl:

Anyway, got the bare bones done

Another

(http://C:\Users\Sanjay Rai\Pictures\2013-05-23 guillows)

Problems with pics!

Bilal: the plans are too large to scan. How do you suggest I share?  :headscratch:

Time for experimenting! Got some NC lacquer and Sand Sealer

Tried 2 dummy tests. That tissue is superb! Shrinks like a charm! Water to shrink, lacquer to act like dope to harden and retain. The paint loosens it though  >:( Tried Acrylic, can auto spray, and putting universal stainer in dope

After painting the test pieces

Fuse after covering & doping

Rai Sir, if the plans are A0 size, then you can get them scanned at some xerox shop.......I have this shop near my college where Architecture guys get there design sheets scanned, and they are twice the size of regular A0 size sheets........but this is only possible if you have access to

otherwise you can scan the plans in like three or four parts, (essentially A4 size) and mail them to me....I'll somehow find a way to join them.

Thanx
Bilal

OK, let me try

BTW, this clear lacquer does not give good adhesion between tissue and balsa. I used a humble glue stick  ;D

Beauty. Perhaps yellow desi tissue insted of colour.
Rubber? Cox 0.010/ Peewee?
Electronics from Nine Eagles?
Now where did i put my Guillow Skylane kit 7-8 yrs ago ???

Guys who need plans.
Why don't you look at outerzone.co.uk.
Over 4000 plans.
Happy hunting

Congrats Sir, following this build closely.

Thanks Mr. Iyer and VC

I have't decided the power, but for now I think I'll go the Rubber Motor/Free flight way; I don't have any suitable RC equipment or small engines/motors (Hint, hint...any one selling?)

Yellow tissue is an idea worth exploring, but will have to check the shrinkability. I would need various colours.

I had got a beautiful tight, even finish after doping, but after paint it has sagged, as have my spirits. Maybe I should have just left it after clear lacquer....But I have to solve this conundrum ???: the other model I have is a Spitfire Supermarine in Camouflage colour!  >:(

A similar plan for rubber powered is here
http://www.petervis.com/interests/buildingplanes/pipercub.pdf
Scanned from old books.

Dont open on browser, Just add as a link in your download manager like FDM.
It's a 520 KB File. Have fun.
If still problem persist, try here (https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BwGryIQR1d40X1JLbVJoRTk2U1U&usp=sharing).

Kalyan-da

The link does not work; it is copyright protected!

Bilal, have mailed you

OK, completed it! Tissue sagged after painting, although before paint but after water shrinking and doping was tight as a drum  >:( :headscratch:

Sanjay sir it looks awesome.. love to see a flight video... any plan to convert to electric... ?


Sent from my Canvas using tapatalk 2

Lessons learnt:

1. These models require patience! Have to let glue dry completely before the next operation

2. Very fragile during build. If using Cyano, use a tube with a small nozzle, not a bottle.

3. A judicious mix of Cyano & Modelling glue is best.

4. Glue stick works good for tissue. But needs at least 4~6 hours drying before water spray, else when the tissue shrinks, it can pull the (wet) joint apart

5. Colouring is a conundrum yet to be solved. But I think that use of a single coat of dope, with universal stainer mixed in, should do the job. Will experiment further.

I would welcome other's experiences on this aspect

Finally, would I build another? YES, I'm hooked  ;) ;)


Oh yes, it flies too  >:D  Gave it a couple of glides, after adding about 5 gms plasticine at the nose. 8) Also tried about 50 turns of the rubber motor  :D

Next Guillows? A Spitfire!

Thanks Arun. You always have a encouraging word :D

Arun, no plans to convert to Electric. I don't have the electronics, nor do I know how to. The build too is not perfect. Maybe, on some other, larger Guillows model.

Beautiful.
Had same problem with my Guillow Focke Wolf.
The tissue in the kit may be OLD
Alternative to coloured tissue is to spray the colour thin with a Flit gun.
Hard work but ok for a small model.
Unable to get green or brown tissue for camouflage for my Spitfire.

Wowser Sire! That is a beaut!

VC boss, coming from you, that is a big compliment  :thanks:

Mr. Iyer sir, thanks. Flit gun? Too many droplets I think

Has anyone tried painting on monokote? Where are Sandy and Gusty sir when you need them  :D :'(

Sir, manual (metal) flit pump (not gun) gives a fine spray. (Finer than say Colin).
Did an entire motorcycle RE 150 Ensign once.
Inexpensive enough to try once. Best of luck.
It's the electric vibrating ones that spit and sputter.

I would agree with KK Sir. I've seen my bike mechanic painting fuel tanks with the same apparatus. However, he has attached a foot pump to the flit gun. He directs the flow, while his assistant pumps away. Results in a steadier flow without any jerks.

I'll try anything once. But the core issue remains - the covering sags when paint is applied

Then try this trick.
A little bit of enamel paint with NC thinner.
No one recommends this.
But worth a try. I've tried it.
Drying time is longer. Thinner evaporates but paint takes longer.
I think the enamel has greater covering power, so you need less.
Also check if tissue is old.
And don't ever touch it with a brush or sponge or cotton.
Only sprays. Toothbrush, colin bottle, flit pump, whatever.
(Old method for water spray. Dip a toothbrush and flick it with your thumb. You probably know this)
You were right about sticking tissue with GUM and letting it DRY.

Another method is to dip the toothbrush in paint and rub it through a sieve or tea leaf strainer. Used to do this in school.

VC Sir, that must have been for painting SPOTS

I will wait till my next tissue model, and experiment with various options. I still think a single coat of dope (with Universal Stainer for colouring) should do the job

Gentlemen, I tried the finit technique today (was it flit or finit? i think finit)

The good, it works, albeit slow
The bad, I was sweating like a pig in Delhi summer heat and all that to and fro motion (dont get wrong ideas)
The ugly, the sweat fell on the newly painted surface.
The really ugly, the paint spills from the container and the atomizer mouth.

All in all the technique works. I realized, one needs to give short bursts for the paint to flow out decently, and the coverage is small (good in fact so one has more control). Enamel thinned slightly with turpentine (thanks Sanjay sir for the advice).

Will post finished results when they dry up

PS: I also have recently bought the electric spray gun but it makes lots of noise and is a project to clean up so thought of doing this. My feedback.

Interesting, Girish. Yes, the leakage can be a hassle, especially if the drops fall on the workpiece  :o

Good exercise though  :rofl:

Hi,

My first guillows piper build ( also first plane build). Which glue should I use ?
Instruction says model aeroplane cement. Where can I get it in India ? ( preferably bangalore) . Please let me know.

Thanks and Regards,
Srivatsa

@srivatsa,
That kit has so many parts/joints that you be better off using superglue like feviquick. Also saves weight. Use Quickfix for parts which you may need to reposition. If you really want model airplane cement (balsa cement)(it is not instant, but faster than Quickfix), i think lotushobby.com (Ahmedabad) has some.
But don't use any of these for the windscreen/windows. Not sure what is required, maybe fevicol.
Best of luck with your first model airplane build.

Srivatsa: I used Cyano (Feviquick) and Stickfast/Quickfix. Iyer sir is correct about the windscreen & windows: they get permanent marks from if the glue contacts the surface. What I did was to use Qickfix very sparingly, only on the contact surfaces and make sure it didn't spread........still, I did get a few stains :(

i am really happy to see the work space .well organized screw driver ,inch tapes really good mate , would like to have same .

Thank you Vineet. It is a DIY project, can be done in one weekend

@Iyer sir and sanjay.
Thank you. Will heed to it. These parts are very fragile. Definitely need patience.