RC India

Hello,

Since my first 450 quad build went smoothly, I decided to do a smaller one. I am not building it for racing.
This is a complete banggood items build, except Tx/Rx and Lipo.
No FPV at this point, as I don't have a goggle.

I chose 210mm lisam ls-210 frame as that seems to be a very popular one. Base plate is 3mm, top plate is 2mm and side plates 1mm. comes with aluminium standoff and hex screws.
cc3d atom mini as FC (yes I know it is outdated and so many told me to go with F4). It was available for so cheap on banggood hence I thought I will give it a shot.

Racerstar BR2205 2300KV motors.
Racerstar 30A lite blheli ESC.
Matek PDB with 5V BEC.
Racerstar 5040 4 Blade props (those came free with motor).

For time being I being I am planning to use my Flysky FS-i4x/FS-A6 for Tx/Rx. At some point I plan to upgrade to basic 6 channel with some programming option model.

Still researching on what lipo to use. I want to go for 3s, because I don't want fly super fast. I have used only gensace and tattu lipos so far. Since there are no issues with them, I plan to go with same brand.
There is no smaller than 1800mah available in 3s in tattu or gensace.

I received all the components except ESCs and yet to build them. Any tips/suggestions are welcome.
The plan is, at some point replace FC to F4 with baro and use INAV with gps module to achieve altitude hold and RTH functions.
I shall keep the thread updated when build progress.
I am expecting quad to weigh 290gm without lipo.

Thanks.

Got some time over the weekend.
The edges of carbon fiber frame were very sharp. I have sanded off the edges and painted it using fevicryl.
Tested the motors using some spare ESC.
Soldered the XT60 connector to PDB.
Played around with cc3d software. I was able to find a way to flash it with an older version of cleanflight. I guess cleanflight allow modes like altitude hold, RTH etc.
Ordered a BMP180 barometer. Hopefully it can be enabled using cleanflight. But I still don't have 6 channel Tx/Rx to access those features.
Hopefully tomorrow, ESCs will arrive.

You might find that Cleanflight's navigation capabilities like althold, poshold, etc. may not be up to your expectation, especially on a quad this size.
iNav is a great alternative, I urge you to start with that instead. CC3D can be flashed with an old version of iNav which is still good for navigation features.

I started with Naze32 (F1) and iNav, eventually found that I needed F3 or better for a good tune and reliable RTH.
My build: http://www.rcindia.org/multirotors/build-210-fpv-quad-with-gps-baro/

I'm currently working on F4 based mini quads, almost all are running iNav.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Ft8nv1PnY0

Thank you @kn8alpha .

I was able to flash cleanflight (an older version 1.10.0 as cleanflight as they stopped supporting cc3d long back) directly from librepilot. For flashing INAV, I think I need a FTDI adapter.
I tried to connect a BMP180 to cc3d and cleanflight is not recognizing.

I am also planning to go with F3 or F4 pretty soon.
Sending you a PM in this regard.

by the way, ESCs are arrived. So have everything now to proceed with build.

I completed the wiring and assembly of quad.
Went through LibrePilot flight control wizard.
Turned on tx, installed battery, armed by holding yaw to right.
Gave very slight throttle,  boom....it just flipped over rapidly. See video,

https://youtu.be/5y_GP0CEj-Y (https://youtu.be/5y_GP0CEj-Y)

After researching, I think at the "Output Calibration" step, I shouldn't have spun the motor in full speed (slider bar full right) and clicked stop. It needed the slowest speed of motor.
I am yet to try this out.

Also in "Transmitter Setup Wizard" when I move the stick, in the given diagram controls are not moving.
But in a different screen controls are responding, but it does as if a lag in graphics.

You don't want to race but 4 blade prop, would be more power consuming..
What is the battery you are using??people suggest 1500mah 60-75C or else battery will get hot..

What did you order from BG and did you order all at once??

Build is progressing.
I was able to fix the flip issue. It was the "Output Calibration" step that I messed up. Once I re did the min throttle correctly, the instant rapid flip issue is gone.

Something bad happened too.
While testing, I found that AIL channel had to be reversed. I did this directly on Tx using physical reverse switch without knowing that I am reversing throttle switch!! Quad was armed it went crazy hit something. The tucked in Rx antenna came out and props cut the wire from root. Also lipo got some bumps.
Now Rx is without antenna I guess that will shorten the range.
Lipo I charged and used , no visible issues. Hope it will live.

Also learned the importance of a dedicated arming switch. If I had that I could have disarmed so quickly.

I am using tattu 3300mah 35C 3s. Those blades came free. I will try 2 or 3 blades soon.

As per specs, my motor with 5045 props (not sure how many blades) and with 3s lipo draws 19.2A
So if I assume motor draws 25A at peak, 24x4=100A
My lipo is 3300mah 35C. 3.3x35=115.5A
So I guess lipo has enough amps to run the motor, am I missing something?

All parts except except Tx/Rx and Lipo are from BG. I bought them in 4 orders.

Great you focused on flight time...
I didn't check the video don't fly inside..
Cellings love quads they want to hug them quickly...
It's a lot dangerous too, need heart of a lion for that..

https://youtu.be/AeFpUvSurQw
It may be useful never use props inside the house...

If you are afraid because there is no fail safe then get a better transmitter...

My maiden flight happened yesterday. It went very well.
Being flown only 450 quad, I find it very easier than 450.
It was not very snappy but felt very smooth movements.

With lipo quad weighs 613g.
I got flight time of 10.5 minutes (lvc at 11.4V) with throttle at 50% hovering back and forth.
Before the flight all temperatures at 84F and after the flight,
lipo - 95F
ESCs - 85F~
Motors - 95F to 100F

Yellow balls just for few days.

Next is to explore flight modes and fail safe in librepilot.

Received new Tx/Rx FS-i6/FS-IA6B.
Tested Tx/Rx fail safe and it worked fine. I simply set the throttle to -99%, so motor simply stop incase of fail safe.
New Rx is slightly bigger to accommodate on the frame. I placed it sideways.

I attempted to Run Transmitter Wizard in LibrePilot again to set the 3 pos switch (SWC) for flight modes, and SWA for arming/disarming. There seems to be some issues with my cc3d Rx port, 6th channel (SWC) is not being recognized. I made sure that its not a Tx/RX issue. Tested with separate servo on all channels.
It seems like the last pin on cc3d is bad, whichever channel that wire goes, that channel wont get detected.

Nevertheless, I was able to perform my first field run today. I got again 10 minutes of flight time (11.4V LVC), It flown well. I am a beginner and not good with yaw+roll turns.

https://youtu.be/gz1wzVTV74Y (https://youtu.be/gz1wzVTV74Y)

Since cc3d 6th channel not working, I wont be able to test flight modes. Again I dont know whats good flight mode I could test. No baro, so no altitude hold mode.
I was able to flash cleanflight, betaflight and INAV on the cc3d. All were very old versions. No where bmp180 baro got detected. So I never bothered to fly with them on the cc3d.

Next is replacing cc3d with a Omnibus F4 Pro with a Ublox GPS and run INAV on it. I hope all goes well.
Oh by the way as few advised, ordered 2 blade, Orange HD 5045 Carbon Fiber Nylon Props.

Build looks good. Looks like your hover takes 20A check if they motors are getting too warm after long flights.

I've pm'd on the FC and GPS.

Please be careful flying around children.. they are curious things having a tendency running into your flight path.  8-)

After the run,
lipo - 95F
ESCs - 85F~
Motors - 95F to 100F

Never felt anything too warm.

Trying to repair the antenna from the old Rx which I broke earlier.
Any one know where the outer shield wire and inner wire should go? photos attached.

I have fixed broken antenna.
If you want to check outer wire or inner wire then just scratch the yellow part then you will know.

See attached photo. This is antenna wiring in turnigy 8ch receiver(rebranded flysky receiver)

Thanks @taksh
I soldered it back. Tested and it works fine.
Comparing the range with my new FS-IA6B. Did not see any real difference.

Time to replace cc3d with f4.
Received omnibus f4 pro and Ublox M8n gps with compass.
Ready to start working on INAV.
Need to rewire the gps according to f4 way.

By the way since I had issues with the the cc3d board, banggood refunded it.

Since holiday, decided to get all the soldering done. It was my first time doing this kind of soldering. Was definitely not easy.

Started with header pins and xt60 pigtail on FC.
Had to de solder xt60 from pdb (old cc3d setup) as pdb leads should go to FC for current sensing.

Soldering Lead wires on PDB was the easiest. I used 14AWG silicon wires.

Soldering all the leads to FC was crazy.

Finally connected lipo, and everything powered up nicely.

Next - GPS and compass wiring.

What is your soldering setup??
Glad to know that your build is going nice...
Did you face any problems??
Did you use smoke stopper???

Happy independence Day to everyone reading and don't fly today...

I am using soldron 25W with pointed tip and soldron 50W with chisel type tip.
I did not use any smoke stopper.

You sure are a daredevil...
Hope you check with multimeter...

Use a proper soldering iron else high temperature of iron can damage solder pads then last option is jumper. Jumper is not a permanent Solution.
Use adjustable solder soldering iron. Use high temperature sponge(made for soldering cleaning) and Make sure sponge is wet.
Don't push solder iron to melt solder wire. Don't inhale solder fumes.
If you feel surrounding(where u was doing soldering) air is not okay for use then leave that place.  I suffered from Nosebleeds when i was suffering also from cold but only once. After soldering, find fresh air place like park then do yoga. Lambi saans lo and fir chooroo.
If you can't get fresh air then AC is also a option. Always use good quality solder wire. (60/40 tin/ lead). Soldering ko mazak me maat lena kabhi.
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1b0lUnuuSBuNjSsplq6ze8pXak/Vastar-60W-Electric-Soldering-Irons-Temperature-Adjustable-Electric-Iron-Mini-Handle-Heat-Pencil-Soldering-Iron-110V.jpg_640x640.jpg)

I second taksh on this "Soldering ko mazak me maat lena kabhi."

Simon your build is going great. And soldering is also good.

for getting good joint on PCB pad ....
1. twist the wires with hand so that the wire bristles are together
2. apply flux to wire and tin it
3. tin the pad
4. then heat the wire on pad to get a good  clean joint.
5. add more solder if required.

One query regarding the wires .... ( I dont know anything about these FCs)

Why are you taking thick wires to FC then to the PDB?

What i think

the XT60 Plug directly goes on the Mtek PDB. But you can have a pigtail if required for easiness.

if the FC needs the 12 volts you can give that from Mtek PDB with thin wires.

If FC needs to sense the battery voltage to produce alarm or OSD then also thin wires can be connected from Mtek PDB to FC.

i amy be totally wrong, but this is what makes sense to me as per electronic wiring. Please seek advice from experienced persons.

And if there is some reason to do so , please share.

regds
Saurabh

You really don't need to use a PDB with Omnibus F4pro as it already has a BEC and a current sensor on it. Here are some pictures of my setup, the XT60 connection goes to the input side of the current sensor shunt, and the esc leads on the other side. Damn difficult to solder though, but you can do it.

But, if you want to use a PDB that lacks a current sensor, solder the XT60+ to the BAT+ on omnibus fc, and a wire from MOT_VCC back to the PDB VCC input, both wires need to be thick as they would be carrying your whole battery current. ESC + and - to the PDB corners, then a ground wire (needn't be thick) from the PDB to FC. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180817/d3fd910c403a8824e96a138c706d4011.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180817/ddd912fcd8ccc1f6d9c44da3bf06b8ae.jpg)

Thank you @taksh and @rastsaurabh for the soldering tips.
I will definitely take them in to consideration.

Made a smoke stopper using 12V 2 filament automotive bulb to use with remainder of build.

@kn8alpha, This is exactly I had wired earlier but using a PDB. After reading little about about omnibus f4 pro v2, I decided to redo this. Now I am planning to power the FC using PDB's 5v BEC as attached diagram using 20AWG. I am not bothered about current sensor or voltage display.

Flashed FC with INAV. (In Win 10 Home edition, I had to install ImpulseRC_Driver_Fixer.exe driver to get DFU mode detected)

Completed the GPS and compass re-wiring. (to get my compass working, I had to do reduce the i2c port speed "set i2c_speed = 200KHZ" in INAV). I Used UART6(gps) and UART3(compass). The connector is "Mini Micro JST 1.0mm SH 6-Pin". I did not have this. So I used cc3d 8 wire receiver cable, which is 100 INR. I had to cut 2 extra wires from the end to fit it on the port.
You could use UART1 for GPS and UART6 for compass, but I wanted UART1 for i-bus. So I combined both GPS and compass on same physical port.

Completed i-bus setup using FS-iA6B by connecting to UART1.

Yet to explore flight modes in detail.
For now tested ANGLE mode and Altitude Hold, both worked ok. For alt. hold, there is a deviance of 30 to 50cm.

When I  position my GPS arrow at 12 O' clock, in INAV its showing 3 O' clock position.
So I set the GPS to 3 O' clock position, and the screen shows it right. Any thoughts?

Can multiple flight modes overlap each other over a  single 3 position switch? for eg, I want ANGLE mode always, so the slider is set left to right. And I want pos hold on second position of switch, so I made the slider in mid position. Is that correct way to set?

Next - gps position hold, RTH, failsafe (RTH)
Attached the wiring diagram and INAV configuration screenshots.

Position the GPS module so that the arrow points forward, towards the nose of the aircraft. In INAV, change the mag orientation (CW or CCW angles) and hit save and go check the Setup tab. The craft movement/heading in this tab should match actual movement without any bounce back. Also the heading should be close to 0 degrees when you point the craft towards magnetic North.

For the modes, poshold enables whatever it needs, i.e. angle mode. You don't need to overlap with angle mode. You need to overlap poshold (2d) with althold if you need a 3d position hold.

In flysky tx, set the aux channel to combination of two switches, like SWC + SWD. You can now get 6 flight modes. I use one physical switch for flight modes (angle, acro) and one for navigation (althold, position hold, none) and an extra switch for emergency RTH return to home.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Still trying to figure out position features of INAV.
I think my issue is, compass(magnetometer) not working correctly. In order to get my compass detected by F.C. i Had to reduce i2c speed to 200KHZ, due to this or not I am seeing lot of i2c errors.

I was powering gps using 5v to 3.3v step down module. I removed it and tried. Gps worked fine, compass same issue.

Next I will place two 4.7kohm resistors and check. Resistors one end to any 3.3v on FC +ve and other end of resistors to the mid of SCL-SCL and SDA-SDA wires.

Ah.. looks like you have a bad GPS module. Do you have pics of the PCB? Try using shorter wires for the scl sda lines. If all else fails pick up a BN880 GPS module from sp4mm3r or banggood

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Her is my gps module pcb picture,
https://static.rcgroups.net/forums/attachments/7/3/4/6/2/5/a11164005-98-IMG_9270.JPG

Gps itself works fine, and get lock fast with some 16 to 17 sats. (Verified using black box logs).
If none works, what about buying a hmc5883l mag sensor alone and use it in the same place where gps mag is. I will cut the wires of scl sand sda from gps and connect them to external hmc5883l.

Yes this module is definitely a Chinese clone of some better quality Neo M8Ns that I've seen. Maybe pour some spirit and clean it up a bit?

GPS works well as it's ublox protocol over uart and there's plenty of error correction with CRC.

Did you try reducing the wire length on the mag I2C lines?  You can safely connect short wires between the sda scl connections on module to the FC to bypass the longer wires, this should reduce the bus capacitance due to which you're using the lower i2c speed. This is ideally a better solution than reducing the pull up resistance. I2C speed depends on 1/RC. Something to keep in mind if you're going to use an external module as well and that should have onboard pullups as well.

Added two 4.7kohm resistors to sda and scl and that cleared all i2c errors.
Also now I can set compass i2c speed to 400KHZ. I think that is the default speed.

But still position hold is not working correctly. Its slowly drifting when pos hold enabled.
I will try compass calibration again.

Finally I was able to get position hold working. Not stand still though. But it did well I guess. It was in Horizon mode. Yet to try if this work same way in angle mode. Here is video. Sorry for bad lighting.

https://youtu.be/JO5mwTRq4EU (https://youtu.be/JO5mwTRq4EU)

Here is a far view video and attempting RTH (at the end of video). RTH was not success.

https://youtu.be/haYJikVqkQA (https://youtu.be/haYJikVqkQA)

For benefit of others,
compass calibration/setup is very crucial to make pos hold work correctly.
Your quad compass should report the same data as any other compass. I used my iphone compass to compare. I also had to change Mag Alignment to cw 270 degree flip.
If all done correctly, in INAV setup tab, the value for "Heading" should be close to any other compass' value. Also when quad is rotated clock wise, the "Heading" value should increase. If it is decreasing, we have to change Mag Alignment setting.

Next - RTH and failsafe setup.

I just had a chance to look at your posts and videos. Looks like you've made some good progress, keep going.

Couple of pointers for a successful position hold and RTH (with iNav, but some stuff below applies to any navigation enabled FC):

- For iNav to switch to actively switch to position hold, while 'arming' it must have 3D GPS lock (with minimum 6 GPS satellites, this number is configurable in the GUI)

- A good GPS lock is needed before using position hold and other navigation modes. I usually wait for HDOP < 2, sat counts can be misleading. Usually you get <2 HDOP with 8-9 sats.

- If GPS lock is not available it behaves like it's in Angle mode.

- You need an indication to know if you have GPS lock.
Simplest way is to power the quad, plug into PC iNav GUI and look at the GPS tab. You can see GPS sats, lat/lon, HDOP, etc.
I know it might not be able to carry your PC around, next alternative is a buzzer or LED strip. Buzzer emits a series of fast beeps when GPS is locked.
The best way of course is to view GPS data on your FPV feed, if you have one. It supports displaying sat count, lat/lon, HDOP and updates in real time.

- iNav uses compass to check if quad is moving in the right heading, and this affects position hold as well. If your compass orientation is set properly and after calibration, the setup tab in iNav should display the right heading and the quad displayed should rotate/yaw correctly with actual rotation of your quad (clicking reset heading Z-axis helps in orienting the displayed quad). If the display moves in the opposite direction or bounces back, either the compass orientation is wrong or is flipped. For BN880, with the cables coming out it's back the orientation is CW 270 flip.

- Prior to iNav v2.0, position hold is just 2D, i.e. holds horizontal position and throttle controls the power to the motors. Combine position hold with altitude hold using overlapping switch assignment to get 3D position hold. Simply put, throttle position in altitude hold sets the vertical speed, in default configurations, middle throttle/ RC value 1500 "holds" the altitude and 1500 + 50 causes it to rise slowly and 1500 - 50 causes it to descend. The value "50" is altitude hold deadband and is configurable.

One more thing.. for mag alignment check, point the quad to magnetic north (different from actual north) and make sure the reading is near 0. If its close to 180 degree, the alignment is incorrect. Surprisingly the setup tab shows the quad moving in the right direction even with the wrong 180 degree offset alignment but the issue shows up in flight as the quad starts drifting.

I think my compass is now setup correctly. I verified the heading with my iphone compass and both always shows same reading.

I believe you also have a omnibus f4 pro v2. It has LED strip port (J1)  as per https://www.electroya.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Betafligth-Omnibus-F4-Pro-v2-botton-pinmap.jpg . Have you ever used that port for connecting led strip?
I read some where that, in clone boards, J1 cannot be used for LED but have to use PWM5.

From inav page,

“Omnibus F4 Pro clones (Banggood, AliExpress, eBay, etc.) use OMNIBUSF4PRO_LEDSTRIPM5 target (LED strip on M5 pin instead of incorrectly wired dedicated connection)“

AS stated in iNav wiki, use the M5 signal pin, works without issues. I just power my LED strip from the FC 5V as well.

Modded my FS-I6 to 10 channels. With FS-IA6B on i-bus I could make full 10 channels work. I used https://github.com/benb0jangles/FlySky-i6-Mod- and 10ch Mod i6 Updater in that. Also had to install CP210x_Universal_Windows_Driver to get my Data cable recognized.

I am using SWA for arming, SWB for angle and horizon modes, SWC for alt hold, pos hold.
I still have VRA, VRB and SWD unassigned.
I don’t have a buzzer installed. When I do, I will use VRA for that.

Can I use any 5v and gnd to power the led strip and use only PWM5 for data, like in below diagram I drawn?

Yes, all 5V are tied together, you can use the 5V on ESC rail (those near m5 pin)

@sim_tcr
If cjmcu board have inbuilt capacitor then it is okay else use a small capacitor to smooth voltage.

Bought this same one in picture. its working good so far. Changed the main power lead to good quality wire as the plug was loose.

It is not the tools we use that make us good, but rather how we employ them.

Received the CJMCU 8 Bit WS2812 LED Strip and Flysky FS-CVT01 Voltage Module (I think it will work only on FS-IA6B)
voltage module worked out of the box, just needed to wire correctly and configure Tx. It weighs 9gm.

Wired the LED strip. I used 5v BEC from the PDB to provide power. On Omnibus F4 Pro V2 (clone), I used PWM5 for Data.
Configured them for GPS status, Arm state, Battery they worked neat.
The first and last 2 led's I configured for turn indicators. But its not blinking when I move roll stick left or right. I had set color of those LEDs to orange, I don't know if that's the issue.

I think there is an issue with turn indicator LED programming in INAV 2.0.0

I set led 0,1 as right (E). LED 6,7 as left (W).
After saving, Right turn indicator working as it should but left turn not working.
Also, though right indicators are set to blink only for right turn, they are blinking when stick moves down.
I confirmed that 6,7 leds are good. I can make them work on any other function. I also tried to set 0,1 LEDs to left (W) and not working.
Some issue with left (W).
I Also found that, whether you set direction or not, they will blink only and always when roll stick moves right or down. And will not blink when roll stick move left or up.
Reported as an issue o INAV.

https://youtu.be/j0qOjHyPDNc (https://youtu.be/j0qOjHyPDNc)

Here is how position hold work on my 210mm quadcopter running inav 2.0.0. It is bit wobbly at some part due to wind.
pos hold and getting quad to exact stand still never worked, it slightly move around in small space of 1 meter. But the whole flight time (10 minutes) I could be in pos hold and not touch my Tx at all.

https://youtu.be/PlDzXzUU56E (https://youtu.be/PlDzXzUU56E)

Cheap SQ11 camera mounted on the quad. Horrible jello effect due to incorrect mounting of camera and inexperienced flyer (me)
Video was taken while quad in pos hold mode.

https://youtu.be/-XFaxN9zQhI (https://youtu.be/-XFaxN9zQhI)

Next - Planning to get some silicon mounts to see if they can take out vibrations and improve video.
My build is published at https://rotorbuilds.com/build/14227 (https://rotorbuilds.com/build/14227)

I was able to make RTH (return to home) function working.
IMO, It worked so great.
I tweaked settings slightly to test RTH from a small space.
Video speaks all.

https://youtu.be/PZrj9ecGn9s (https://youtu.be/PZrj9ecGn9s)

I was able to make RTH (return to home) function working.
IMO, It worked so great.
I tweaked settings slightly to test RTH from a small space.
Video speaks all.

https://youtu.be/PZrj9ecGn9s (https://youtu.be/PZrj9ecGn9s)

Next - RTH fail safe, way point missions.

I have used some rubber material between motors and frame to remove vibrations.
Also mounted the camera differently to get jello effect cleared. See the video, I think it helped great.

https://youtu.be/htDlJLDcCN0 (https://youtu.be/htDlJLDcCN0)

nice i saw the video.

Which cam is this .. Firefly ?

iMars™ Mini Camera SQ11 HD Camcorder (http://"https://www.banggood.com/Original-Mini-Camera-SQ11-HD-Camcorder-HD-Night-Vision-1080P-Sports-Mini-DV-Video-Recorder-p-1139282.html?rmmds=myorder&ID=224&cur_warehouse=CN\")

I have tested INAV way point mission and it worked great.

https://youtu.be/AG2En-XW7g8 (https://youtu.be/AG2En-XW7g8)

• Enable a free channel for "NAV WP" in modes.
• Go to Mission Control.
• Browse the map to the area you wish to create a mission.
• Click on the map to add first point.
• Click on the point again  to set desired altitude and speed and click save.
• Click on the map to add second point.
• Click on the point again  to set desired altitude and speed and click save.
• Select "RTH at the end of mission".
• Click on "Save mission to FC" and then "Save Eeprom mission"
• Make sure that "Mission valid" is green
• At field load mission to FC (power cycle remove the mission which we had earlier loaded) by holding throttle stick down and roll stick to top right corner.
• ARM the quad and flip NAV WP mode switch.
• ARM the quad and launch it (not a must but recommended) and flip NAV WP mode switch.
• At the end of mission quad does RTH

With this, my build is almost completed.
If I find anything more interesting in future with regards to this setup, I will post here.

Eachine vtx03 was originally bought for micro build.
Since the build is delayed I decided to use it here.
Camera is yet to come, so just connected vtx to get a feel of OSD.

RSSI is coming always zero (I am using FS-i6 Tx and FS-IA6B Rx)
I had also selected wind speed horizontal and vertical, that is also not showing values.
Channel and Frequency not coming too.

Tried the vtx on an Airbot Omnibus F4 nano V6 (which is with an LC filter) and then on an Omnibus F4 Pro V2 (clone)
I have recorded a video. Inset is Omnibus F4 Pro V2 (clone). Which has some grains on it.
Any idea how to fix it?

https://youtu.be/2vHthYmE5fg (https://youtu.be/2vHthYmE5fg)

RSSI is sensed either as digital through one of the ibus channels (if the receiver supports it natively) or as analog signal from the receiver pad. For fsia6b both of these are not available without mods. For digital, you need to be using ibus and need to have flyplus 14 channel mod firmware on the transmitter (assuming i6). Then go to the aux channel setup and set one of the channels as RSSI. On the FC, select this channel as the source for RSSI in the receiver setup tab.

For analog, FS ia6b needs it's shield popped off and you need to solder a wire out, search for family ia6b RSSI mod for details. Not simple and needs soldering skills.

Wind speed is not calculated for multirotors in INAV. You need external sensors if you need it.

The VTX needs to support a communication method with the FC to share power and freq data, simply connecting the video wire to FC will not get you this. Look for a VTX that supports SmartAudio and connect to one of the FC UART.

omnibus f4 pro v2 clone did not come with a built in LC filter.
There was grains coming in FPV video.
Installed a DIY LC filter using 25v 100uf capcitor and grains are cleared now.

Note: When quad is stationary there may not be any grains in video and you will not notice any difference in video with or without lc filter.
It is when flying grains started coming up and installing LC filter cleared the grains.

https://youtu.be/IumIv12WuDo (https://youtu.be/IumIv12WuDo)

Footage from recent Beach flying.
No gimbal, cheap sq11 Camera.
Camera is soft mounted.

https://youtu.be/0rslta3uP9E (https://youtu.be/0rslta3uP9E)

Trying to make DIY 2 axis gimbal using 9g micro servos.
Weight is around 35gm. Then again, I can get rid of some existing camera mounts.
I will post videos, if it improves the video.
I used an unused cc3d atom flashed with INAV as gimbal controller. My quad FC did not have enough pwm outputs to connect the servos directly there.

Idea and Design courtesy to youtuber "MakerHand" video,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXq9zs1Q858&index= (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXq9zs1Q858&index=)

Gimbal test video.

https://youtu.be/0KP0onSY9j0 (https://youtu.be/0KP0onSY9j0)

Dropped the idea of servo gimbal, its causing small vibrations and affecting video.
There is no mini/micro brushless gimbal available under weight of 50gm.
Instead used a single servo to get the tilt functionality. I connected the servo directly to the Rx and used VRB to control. In Tx set Rx to IBUS/PWM.

Replaced the camera with Hawkeye Firefly Micro. I think it is producing videos better than SQ11.
Removed the built in battery of the camera to save some weight. It is powered by 5v from VTX.
This camera does videos in 720p and 1080p.
I connected the video out put to VTX to get the live feed. (see the connector going to camera)

Changed props from 5040 4 blade to 5030 2 blade.
It increased flight time almost by 2 minutes.
But increased throttle by 20%. With 4 blade throttle was at 40% to 50% with 2 blade it is at 60% to 70%.
Checked temperature of Lipo and motors after run, and everything normal.
Also compare blackbox logs and all looked similar except throttle.

Did a rebuild to get rid of some extra wires, led strip etc. which ultimately brought down the AUW to 660gm.
Moved GPS to back of the quad, so that camera can shoot without obstructions.
Since my lipo is big and mounted on the top of quad. I had to mount the camera on the top of Lipo.

Video is shot with 720p setting. Clipped from full video using LosslessCut sofware. It does cut without loosing any quality.

https://youtu.be/NSV6o6xjTEs (https://youtu.be/NSV6o6xjTEs)

Modded FS-IA6B Rx to get lipo voltage displayed on FS-I6 Tx.
I followed https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=33432940&postcount=23 However I did not cut trace of J1. Instead I soldered a wire directly from R5 (after cutting trace) to VBAT (+ve only).
By this I could remove Flysky FS-CVT01 Voltage Collection Module from the build.
AUW now is 648gm (including a 9g servo, Hawkeye Firefly Camera and servo mount)

ESP-12F ESP8266 wifi module to add to quadcopter.
This can be used to connect to quad wireless for configurations, adding missions , telemetry etc.
All hardware UARTs are already used,  I am trying to see if this can be connected via soft serial.
If all goes well, I will post the steps here.
The module is 200 Rs and 2gm weight.

I was able to flash the firmware successfully and connect it to soft serial.
Here is a video I did on flashing,

https://youtu.be/CEZ2gTZp8X8 (https://youtu.be/CEZ2gTZp8X8)

New pagoda FPV antenna.

Flying this quad after a long time
Props are 2 blade 5030, camera is Hawkeye Firefly Micro

https://youtu.be/uA7JB7iQ1Rg (https://youtu.be/uA7JB7iQ1Rg)

Nice  {:)}