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[AnjanBabu]

It is also a bit difficult to get it, though I had some contacts that made me to get it easily, but even then the seller asked me what am I going to do with it.

You can easily get the Ferric Chloride from SP road, dealers like NSK Electronics, Shree Lakshmi Electronics and OM Technologies stock them for students. Besides, it's a one time buy, you don't really need to change the solution in years, the solution I use is about 3 years old now. It's of course a bit messy.

[AnjanBabu]

yashodhanp, that's some nice toner transfer job you have there, I've been trying to etch a PCB for a couple of days now and the toner just doesn't stick on to the copper very well, I'm not able to figure out why.

Could you please list down your process flow?
 

[yashodhanp]

@Anjan...

The process I use is as follows:

1. Cut out the copper board to size.
2. Use a scotch brite scrub pad and scuff the surface lightly to a shine.
3. Use IPA to remove any residual oils etc.
4. Set the iron to the highest possible temp. And then preheat the board for 45 seconds.
5. Apply the paper to be transferred VERY CAREFULLY (I CANNOT STRESS ENOUGH,  the preheated board will nearly instantly bond with the paper.
6. Press the iron down firm and hard for around 2 minutes.
7. Use the front pointed tip of the iron to apply more pressure and use just the tip to rub the entire paper hard. (Very Important. Else some lines may just not transfer)
8. Press again for 2-3 minutes while constantly moving the iron over the surface.
9. Shock it in cold water. (Hot water has NEVER worked for me. Though others swear by it.)
10. Peel of the paper. (Mine just peels off in a single shot in a matter of seconds. But it may vary from paper to paper)
11. DONE!..

Feel free to ask questions.

PS. Print it in as high a toner density as possible.
I will be experimenting with both OHP and WAX Paper in a few days time.

[AnjanBabu]

I do exactly that, the first few PCB that I etched a while ago turned out beautifully with 0.5mm traces, I just cant seem to get the sort of toner transfer right now. It's probably the toner quality, I can see the density is quite good.

I've tried the OHP sheet and wax/photo papers, normal paper seems to be the best bet, since, when you rip it off the copper, it leaved a thin layer of paper behind, OHP and photo papers tend to rip off the toner when you peel it off.
Update your experiments with it.

[shreeyak]

Yes, a small amount occasionally.

[miginstruments]

@Anjan Babu. Thanks sir for the advice. NSK is a close friend of mine but I never asked for FeCl2, Although I got it from some where else last year. As you said this chemical is pretty messy its true. Always ve to make my hands and the floor dirty. I did some PCB's last year, the beginning was a bit troublesome. But as I moved on I started to understand what to do in order to have a good PCB. The most painstaking job was to transfer toner onto copper clad. Well I should tell you there are two types of Copper clad available @ NSK go for the other one its a bit on the higher cost, not much around 10-15 bucks more, but its rather easy to transfer the toner onto it. I ve never tried a thicker paper. now I ll try with a Photo Paper. I even did PCB for 8051 with I2C, though it did not worked but it was a worth experiment. Other part to take care of is to Drill the PCB. While drilling we may lose some of the tracks particularly the Dots. I ll give another try in some days, ll update the process. Since Toner transfer is a bit tricky job, I was looking for some other alternatives. but I think this is the most easiest process to DIY. If you come across another process please do inform. Regards.

[AnjanBabu]

miginstruments, I never bought copper clads from NSK, I usually look for fiberglass boards, the Phenolic ones are a bit weak. I'll look for some good quality copper boards.

I had the problem of small pads lifting off while drilling too, I drill those tiny holes right after toner transfer and then etch the PCB, turns out fine.

I'm planning to order some photosensitive dry film for UV exposure and thermal transfer paper for toner from AliExpress. Looks pretty cheap.

[miginstruments]

Anjan Sir, Well thats a pretty good technique. I ll try in the same way. I dont know about the fiber boards, I ll ve a look at it over google. My 8051 board was destroyed coz of the Pads, while drilling. Please update me once you get the photosensitive film and get your hands on it. BTW even I am into Embedded Systems, but as of now I am only using 8051. Was thinking to try hands on Ardiuno, but dont know from where to start. Please Guide me in this regard. 

[sooraj.palakkad]

Starting out in Arduino is far easier than using 8051 or PIC microcontrollers.
As you are ok with PCB design and stuff, get a Atmega 328, An USB to UART Break out, some passive components , Berg strips - you can make your own Arduino board with this. Or you can get any cheap clones .
Download the latest Arduino IDE..
Arduino Language almost self learn-able..

[miginstruments]

@Sooraj I ve almost all the things you ve mentioned except Arduino. Also there are a lot of Ardiuno boards are available in the market. Which one you suggest for me to begin with. Though I ve also started working on LPC 2148 but, Ardiuno is something I just ignored previously. But now I am realizing that I shld ve tried it as well. Thanks n Regards.

[sooraj.palakkad]

For starting get a Arduino UNO board or any of its clone.
Or you can make your own arduino UNO board with a atmega328 .

[sahilkit]

if you are buy a arduino uno clone board get the blue color once, as rest of the clone clones will have usb driver/OS problems and FT232 clone chips can get bricked easily if wrong drive is used (due to recent win update with FT232 driver/bricking).

Below is a similar one i have, which worked flawless right from the start.

http://www.inkocean.in/uno-r3-development-board-compatible-with-arduino?gclid=CI7fr4D4gcMCFRUnjgodUSIA1g
 
Sahil

[miginstruments]

Thanks Sooraj n Thanks Sahil. Sahil I went through the link you ve posted. ll order it soon. The next step is to understand the Port configuration of it. Also does it have an Inbuilt ADC.

[sahilkit]

Yes 6 adc channels and i think 10bit resolution, please see below link

http://arduino.cc/en/Main/arduinoBoardUno

Sahil

[miginstruments]

@Sahil. Oh thats nice. I should try my hands as soon as possible onto this. Thanks for all your help Guys.

[subhashjk0508]

hey!! i guess i have an arduino uno R3 geniune with all the stickers and stuff!! i'am not using it anyway, you can have it if you want and i too have a arduino mega clone!!

regards,
JK

[miginstruments]

@Subhash. Well Subhash I ll be delighted to have. But which one is that, I mean I dont know much about Uno. Sahil has mentioned a particular model above. Is it the same one?

[sooraj.palakkad]

A UNO is best for beginners

[subhashjk0508]

pics!! ya the same model!!

[subhashjk0508]

back!!

[sahilkit]

i think what subhash has posted looks like a original unit

[subhashjk0508]

i would suggest go with the arduino mega because im sure your going to outgrow the uno, there are really crazy stuff you could do with the arduino!!

http://playground.arduino.cc/Projects/Ideas

you might even build a computer from them!! like this:-

http://amigojapan.github.io/Arduino-Retro-Computer-TV/

regards,
JK

[sooraj.palakkad]

YEah, what subhash has posted is an OEM Arduino UNO R3

[subhashjk0508]

and if you are realy interested in arduino, i have got really good stuuf for it like the nokia 5110 lcd display , you could display graphics etc... i got few really fun sensors too and dont forget to look at instructables.com for some kickass projects!! and if your from bangalore you could just drop by and pick the stuff yourself!!

had to leave the arduino behind when i came into this hobby!!no time actually!!

@yashodhanp - sorry for hijacking your thread!!

regards,
JK

[AnjanBabu]

subhashjk0508, how much for the Uno?