RC India

Hello everybody,
i have decided to make a tricopter....
I faced a lot of problems and am still working on my build
my qk lipo burst open with some liquid flowing out because of which i had to buy a new lipo
FIRST I WILL START WITH THE PARTS...
1. 2400kv motors [rcx] cw       x2    from quadkopters
2. 2400kv motors [rcx] ccw      x1    from quadkopters
3. 10 amp esc                        x3    from quadkopters
4. turnigy tgy 1370A servo       x1    from rc mumbai
5. turnigy 1500mah 3s lipo       x1    from ebay
6. zmr multiwii lite                 x1    from quadkopters
7. t4b with r6b [tx and rx]       x1    from rc mumbai
8. 8inch props ( if you say i need to change then i will) x3pairs of ccw and cw  from quadkopters
9. xt60 battery connector        x1    from quadkopters
10. bullet connectors              x1    from quadkopters

i have done everything except of programming.. HELP APPRECIATED

I havent even programmed it and i powered everything up and the escs began heating up and a smell like a short circuit was spread in the air... i need a solutionand without it i cannot complete my build PLEASE HELP ME

8'' inch prop for 2400kv motor is crazy high and the esc will surely burn as with such motor upto 6''(max) prop can be used with a 15A esc(20A esc as 15A i don't think is available!)....I think you may have burnt the escs!
Is you esc working?Try it with the props off and don't put more then 20% throttle!

as i have mentioned before that my qk lipo had been burst open .. i discovered the reason for it :
One of the black wires of the escs had been disconnected from the xt60 battery connector cable..
after i had noticed this i soldered it back and also checked the rest..
Now its tight and the mistake will never happen before

himadri,
i havent yet programmed it so the motors and escs are not running .. the escs are just getting heated up
i havent put the props on yet

As i asked before can you touch the esc or its too hot?

Darshan. before going any further, check whether each of your ESC and motor are working .
You can do that by,
1) connect BEC lead of ESC to Ch3 of Receiver.
2) Connect a motor to ESC (props off)
3) Power up ESC , Throttle up slowly - if motor is not rotating, ESC calibration might be required .

In this method, check each ESC and motor .

And another problem with your build is your motors are of low power - means you have to maintain your all up weight to up to 400gms or so.
and never use 8" props with that motor, a 5" prop will be max. you can go with if you are using 10" props.
Meanwhile I will check the thrust of these motors and give you correct calculations on required prop and ESC to use and also the AUW.

Sooraj
I tried calibrating the escs with saikat sir.. but it didn't work out so we both are figuring something out

Himadri,
The temperature slowly increases
I tried some tricks and calibration with saikat sir but couldn't figure anything out .. so I will try my best to search around for any such cases

If you have calibrated your ESC, you should be able to run the motor while moving the throttle channel. if not you have to assume that something is wrong with your ESC or Motor.
is the motors running or not ?

No they are not

The beep beep sound is coming. .so I don't think there is any problem in the escs ..still I will recheck the connections although I had done it before

what kind of beep is coming ? what is happening if you increase the throttle ?

Follow this :

Connect everything .
pull the throttle stick o high position
power up the ESC
wait for the initialization tones to stop, and wait till the ESC makes another distinct beep - beep.
Now pull the throttle stick to lowermost end - you will hear another long beep.
now slowly increase the throttle and check whether it works .

Sorry sooraj  its not working

No beep is heard after the first beep - beep sound even when I follow your instructions

find the attachment & plz suggest me which one best & economical for me? already i hv 2600mh 11.1V battery & ST360 can fly with 2600mh battery?

jeet8066 why post it here?

@Darshan for multirotors.. as i explained in your other thread with 10A ESC only 5030(two blade prop) is recommended...
i think 8'' props are not recommended with this motor (experts plz correct me).
as said by @Himadri Roy if you want to use larger props than use 15A esc..
(m using 30A esc on my quad with 2216 motors. max current drawn by this motor is 17A) always take 5A safety margin..

regards

Gunnu sir I am changing my props to 5030 gemfan

@jeet8066 , both of those kits will work with the battery you have in hand. if you are looking for a small and agile quad at a budget, the ST360 is for you , but if you plant upgrade your quad in future to carry some payload like a Gimbal and camera for shooting some aerial video, then you can consider a 450 size or higher.
If you are getting something bigger, don't go for the reptile , instead get a F450 kit - which will be easier to tune and fly, as you are beginner.

Please don't post this query in many different and unrelated threads. Please go through the rcindia gems before going any further  - http://www.rcindia.org/rc-india-forum/the-rc-india-gems/ (http://www.rcindia.org/rc-india-forum/the-rc-india-gems/)  .

I think you posted something wrong on a different forum page

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_IAv90UGGE&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_IAv90UGGE&feature=youtu.be)

Darshan on powering up there where no beeps? ???
Is your receiver bound well to the transmitter? Try connecting a servo to the Rx and check by moving the stick!

there is a beep like beep-beep but there is no beep is heard after the initial ones .. my receiver is well bound to my tx [ when i switch on my tx, the rx automatically glows up/ powers up.

Thats not the correct method :banghead: to calibrate the esc with using MWC. It has to done via codes.

Or you can do it directly by connecting the esc to the receiver and so on.

Satya sir I tried that too but it is not working

how did you tried? video? steps?

@Darshan, What I saw on your video, is you have connected the ESCs to the multiwii board. What we were trying to say is connect each ESC one by one to throttle channel on your Receiver - and check it one by one .

I tried it with saikat sir but it did not work out

if you are doing it with the multiwii board as in your video, you have to do a procedure called 'arming', to make the motors to rotate. - but this will only happen if you have correctly loaded the firmware to multiwii board and calibrated everything.
So now I would recommend you to leave that flight controller board aside, we will come back to it once we check each ESC and motor to be working - for this all you need is motors, ESCs , receiver transmitter and the battery.

What did you tried , and what was the results ?

Where you using the same ESC - motor pair always ? if one pair is not working, just connect the motor to another ESC and test.
if anything in your setup is already burned - the most probability is ESC itself, because as you haven't loaded your motor till now - there is very very less chance to damage them .

Is the light on the receiver supposed to glow??
Cause mine isn't

I tried all

Before blaming a motor or ESC to be fault, there are lot of other things to check -

1) receiver is bound to the transmitter - if the binding is ok - red LED on receiver will glow when transmitter is turned on.
2) Transmitter is configured to be mode 2 - ie ; throttle is the vertical movement of left stick.
3) Throttle should not be reversed.
4) if you got a servo, you can connect it to each channel on receiver to check everything is working fine.

Everything else is checked except of the 4th point

I tried everything one by one and the motor started running ..now every motor is running separately ..but I need a power connection to power the receiver .. so what I did was I connected one esc as the power source ..i need an alternative power source otherwise everything is working fine

Is it ok if the two front motors are spinning in the ccw motion whereas the tail motor is spinning cw??

No one of the front motor has to be cw and ccw and the rail rotor cw....before proceeding any further have a look at this video..the 30min are worth spending instead of encountering numerous problems!
www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCPMC_fiSMI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCPMC_fiSMI#ws)

Hey Everyone,
Will really like to see The images :)
Regards,
Aman

Glad to know that. :)
 you don't have to power up the receiver with a separate ESC at battery port of receiver, as the positive and negative pins in all channels of a receiver are connected together, Receiver will get power from ESC connected to any channel .

Now as every motor and ESC are tested to be working- you can move on to configuring your flight controller.
but before that I would like to know the All up weight of your current setup - just to check whether your power system is enough.

@himadri Roy it doesn't matter which way the rotors spin on a tri...

Sooraj sir ..if I don't connect the second esc.. The receiver does not power up.i.e. The red light doesn't glow

Aniket  sir is it okay if the front ones are spinning ccw and the tail motor is cw

in tricopter yaw is controlled by angling the tail motor, keeping all the props in one direction is fine for tricopter but it will yaw faster in one direction and less faster in another direction. also failure of tail servo leads to rapid rotation but in case of 2xccw and 1xcw props it can be little slower and can be controlled even without a crash.

Ashok.P

@v2 eagle that depends on type of failure. if you're using large props,so when the servo fails and the yaw becomes loose, the tail will straighten itself out. if it were to yaw in one direction, say to the left, the motor would fall to the left and counter that  yaw. so even when the tail servo fails, the aircraft will be in control enough to land it(this depends not on the aircraft but on your skills) I've seen this happen in person, where my plastic yaw servo busted midair, and i realised it only when the aircraft didnt react to yaw input.... still managed to bring it in with 0 damage except the servo.

So I will go with 2 cw and 1 ccw ..okay?

How can I calibrate all of my escs at once? ?

For programming all the escs at once you have to make a rig where all the signal pins and ground pins are connected and only one esc powering the rx.....better would be programming the escs one by one will take just 10 mins

Okay..thanks

I think the BEC output from your ESC 1 might have damaged - but it is not a problem :)

You can go with any configuration :)


If with multiwii - It needs un commenting ESC calibration in multiwii code - copter will not fly in this mode
If with KK2 - power on the KK board with first and last switches on the board pushed ON.

Are you using multiwii now ? and have you never uploaded the firmware to it ? - If so I can help you in doing the ESC calibration and also setting up multiwii.
But if you have a KK board I would suggest you to go with it instead of Multiwii , as KK is easy to use for beginners :thunbsup:

Himadri - It can be done in the way you suggested also - but why take the trouble ? most of the flight controllers can do this in easy way and in one step too !

I agree but on multiwii it require changing few lines of code and also knowing the endpoints!

No need to change many lines - only have to uncomment one line.
Also no need to know about end points - multiwii sets them at 1000 and 2000.

So I simply program the mwc fc and all the motors will start spinning??

It wont be that simple I am afraid.
First calibrate ESC with multiwii board - motor won't spin in this mode, however recommended to remove props.
Then upload Multiwii firmware with correct settings for your Setup.
then connect to PC and to check the receiver inputs and sensors are working fine, also calibrate both.
Set up flight mode switches and select arming procedure (Switch or <stick - default>) .
Now make sure there are no props on motors, connect battery arm the copter - give little throttle, and check motor responses to movements, in case of a tricopter, you have to make sure yaw mechanism is working as expected

Ohh..okay

Can somebody give me the link to multiwii firmware

Follow this Link :- https://code.google.com/p/multiwii/
to get the latest Multiwii firmware (v2.4) along with Multiwii configuration windows application.

Check this for ESC calibration : https://code.google.com/p/multiwii/wiki/ESCsCalibration

It may come out harsh but sorry to say that you havent done any kind of reading at all on how to assemble the product your were buying.
Moreover your choice of FC is gonna give you sleepless nights if you cannot figure out how PID's work. KK 2.xx or naza lite would have been a better option.
And above all you chose to go with a tricopter which is usually not suited for beginners in terms of assembling one.

Now, your copter looks fat! Have you weighed it? Each motor generates max 260-280gms of thrust @3s in testing conditions. You atleast need a 2.5:1 thrust to weight ratio to get a decent flight(2:1 gives you hover).

Anyways I had a tri with similar motors,fc,esc,lipo etc, and I would have shared the PID's but never saved them  :(
AUW was 350 gms and Flights werent too peppy but thats due to my preference.
Tri is partly dismantled, so will just put up pics of what remains, might be useful to you.

PS: the weight in image is not correct. frame+motors+esc+servo= 167gms approx

@side winder .. Sir I had done some search but couldn't understand much so I asked for help..and I will follow your instructions too.. Thank you  :hatsoff: :bow: :thumbsup: :salute:

Hello again,
Sorry I was off for some time, I had a question relating to the propellers
I had a syma x3 Quadcopter which had 4inch props.. But the problem is that the hole in the prop is a little small for it to fit on the motor
Question : can I increase the size of the hole of the prop cause I don't think I would be able to buy new ones until I am able to sell my 8 inch ones.. So can I do it?
(The props have three blades)

Please don't try any modifications with the props as it might prove to be dangerous however skilled or careful you maybe....better buy the correct props..
While trying to increase the hole diameter you may fatigue the prop  :hatsoff:

I have some extra as I had got 8 of them ..so I can experiment .. how will I be able to do it?? Will I have to drill in and then in a circular motion enlarge the hole from inside? ?

However experiments with props are discouraged as they rotate at very high speed. It may also happen that your mod works but as soon as you increase the throttle the prop may break apart and the high speed bits can cause fatal injuries(think about the bit hitting you eye! :o Hope it never happens!) PLEASE AVOID SUCH EXPERIMENTS IN ORDER TO SAVE FEW BUCKS!!

Oh okay will remember that

Do I connect the esc and the motor by bullet connectors or directly solder them??

Its your choice!....there is no advantage of soldering it directly over connecting it with bullet connector! Some ppl prefer soldering some don't...the only advantage you'll get in using connectors is fast accessibility and you can quickly change a burnt esc or motor or swap wires! Even no need of cutting the heat shrinks!!!   :hatsoff:

Himadri sir what do you prefer?

No Sir plz i am just 17!
I prefer soldering bullet connector...as it helps in quick access!

I am 3 years younger to you..so you are sir for me.. Thanx for the advice

@himadri having bullets helps reduce effort if you've wired the motor wrong and need to flip direction....

@aniket210696 i think i meant that only?? ???

Nah you said there is no difference... Just saying :P

If your're skilled enough that should make no difference!  ;)

No matter how skilled you are, it'll still take less time and effort to disconnect bullets than it does to sit and solder wires

"If" no mistake is made in connecting the wire at the first go!  :P ;D ;)

As i said it all depends on the person's choice!

👆 point xD

 :thumbsup: :salute: :hatsoff: :bow: thanx

The weight of my tri is approx 415 gm . Is it ok? ? (Please note that it is an approximate value)

And now I am using 12 a emax Simon k escs from Vibrant Hobbies

It might be a bit of problem at 5030 prop as the peak thrust(at full throttle) is around 290-330g and at half throttle(ideal hovering position for a multirotor) its around 150-160g...

3 motors = 3*160 =480 g
the total thrust should be 2 times your multirotor's weight!

Your tri might lift off at 65-75% throttle!

So your tricopter might be a bit under powered try shedding some weight from the tricopter! :)

Seniors or any other person may correct me if they feel i am wrong!  :hatsoff:

need tips on shedding some weight.. please help me

Can you post a closeup pic of the tricopter?

sorry sir .. the problem is that i had burnt my esc so i replaced all my escs.. and the simon k 12 a escs  will be arriving today... so i will solder them and send you the latest pic .. sorry once again

No problem!

here it is.. i have cut short the arms and the center plate and tried to lessen the weight as much as i can...

when i collaborated the escs.. one esc ran and the other esc was making a continuous sound like te.te.te.te is it usual with simonks ??
although my previousesc didnt make such sound..
anybody with simon k emax 12a esc please help!!

Did you forgot to calibrate ESC's?

No..I know how to calibrate escs .. without servo pic

Please read carefully sir.. I said that one motor was spinning and the other made that sound when both were connected to the receiver

Any ideas about this situation? ?

Akhilzid sir I sent you a video please tell me if this is usual

programming experts please help
my computer is not showing any external connections when i had connected my usbasp to the pc with everything powered up on my tri
and neither is the arduino

and now i am using hobbyking hksc9-5 single chip servo.. is it ok??? want your advice

Dear friend why are you using a usbasp for uploading code to multiwii? Easy way is to use a atduino itself or an ftdi tool.

use arduino itself?? didnt quite get you right

Remove the arduino's Atmega 328 IC and then connect the RX and TX on the arduino to the multiwii board's RX and TX..

ARDUINO -> MULTIWII
 TX         ->    TX
 RX         ->    RX
 5V         ->    VCC
 GND       ->   GND

Choose the COM port on which the arduino normally comes on your PC\laptop and program!

I can't understand.. is there any video or something that can explain me better

Can you please post a clear close up pic of your multiwii board, with out wires, then I could mark the above said pins on it for you.

do not confuse the poor guy - he does not have an arduino

darshan - you can very easily upload the program using an usbasp - pls call
if you need guidance and i will walk you thru it

Darshan a bit off topic, what is the weight of your model? including everything?

380 grams approx as i shortened the arm length and cut down some wire weight .. i am trying to lose weight as much as i can!!
might be less than that as this is calculated by adding all the shipping weight provided by the sellers ( including you satya sir) :salute:
:hatsoff:

Dont do like that, build the model and keep it on scale and take the weight..

The motors that you are using does not gives a lot of thrust. So the AUW (all up weight) should be around 300-320 grams for best performance.

And reducing the arm length bit too much can make the tricopter too agile...and it would require lot of stick inputs to keep the tricopter steady..
As for the weighing part if you don't have a weighing scale go to a local grocery shop an ask the shopkeeper to measure it...he'll just ask a few questions just say school project...get a weighing scale!It would be quite handy!

There are plenty on ebay,

http://www.ebay.in/sch/i.html?_odkw=weight+scale&_from=R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR10.TRC0.A0.H0.Xkitchen+weight+scale.TRS0&_nkw=kitchen+weight+scale&_sacat=0 (http://www.ebay.in/sch/i.html?_odkw=weight+scale&_from=R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR10.TRC0.A0.H0.Xkitchen+weight+scale.TRS0&_nkw=kitchen+weight+scale&_sacat=0)

I have the 5kg one and it really comes handy

 i havent reduced the length soo much that it would require something extra.. and thanx for the idea of going to the shopkeeper
 :giggle: :giggle: ;D

by the way.. i had a doubt..
i have a hkscm9 servo... it takes in only 5 v
so will it burn if i directly connect it to the fc and power the fc up??

has anybody used the hkscm9 servo yet??

The FC power is 5 volts (if getting power from esc) so no it will not burn

:hatsoff:

guys you wouldnt believe that my tricopter weighs 515grams.. i dont know how.. but it does.. even i am shocked.. i went to a shopkeeper and told him to weigh it for me and i wasnt expecting such high weight.. sending some pics with the battery attached and without props..
this is not at all good
i am quite worried now :-\ :banghead: :'( >:(

no offence to the shopkeeper and his weighing scale.. but when i was calibrating my escs.[only once] i had put the prop on the spinning motor and then powered up..the complete side went over the other side at 45% throttle and the copter turned over.. all of the motors had the same response.. the side on which the motor was spinning lifted off the ground at 45% throttle.. is there anything wrong in that??

What dimensions are your tricopter's arms?
For that motor the tricopter frame is too huge!
Those motors are for 250-300 size multirotors
Arm length must be around 25-30cm from the Center of Gravity(CG)

EDIT- added units ;D :giggle:

the length of the arms that are coming out are 20,20,25.5.. please tell me if i will have to shorten the arms or if you want the length of the booms[the whole boom]

Nah the arms are okay...then maybe it look quite big on the photo :giggle:
For reducing the weight remove the wooden landing gear(dont require them fly off from a grassy patch!) and what is the center plate made of? wood? Try using some lighter material like plastic sheet or box...or try cutting of the extra protrusion(where no components are kept)..drilling holes(i think you'll require many if using a thin bit)in the center plate might reduce the weight but you'll lose the structural integrity of the center plate!

It's made of mdf.. I think his scale was wrong as he took the measurements in a hurry..I will remove the landing gear if you say so.. According to me it should be around 380 gms

Sorry if i am wrong but what kind of TRI is this? no servo tilt mechanism? i dont see any servo in your reply 87. i am wondering nobody has noticed this yet. Darshan your motors, frame and FC choice is wrong. please believe that. i would suggest you to drop the idea of TRI and build 250 size quad. for tri you have to add servo tilt mechanism for yaw, without that it wont see sky anymore.

@Darshan if this was your first scratch build multirotor then bad choice of motors and FC
Normally for a beginner setup we use KK2.x.x for FC as it is easy to setup and helps understand the basics of multirotor
Those motors are used on a 250 class racing quads which aint a easy thing to control or a good multirotor for a beginner to learn on...!!
 

 But now i am not going back.. It's make or break..Btw dharmik sir the servo that I previously had burnt just before I had taken the pic so the servo is absent in the pic (I had mentioned it in the next comment) ..The yaw mechanism is of a simple tricopter and is for sure ..working
Please tell me now..what I can do make this build succesful :bow:

Please refer to this.. The first video https://www.google.co.in/search?q=simple+tricopter+yaw+mechanism&biw=360&bih=592&source=lnms&sa=X&ei=6-tEVZTvLMmgugSyvoDYCA&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAA&dpr=2 (https://www.google.co.in/search?q=simple+tricopter+yaw+mechanism&biw=360&bih=592&source=lnms&sa=X&ei=6-tEVZTvLMmgugSyvoDYCA&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAA&dpr=2)

This guy too has made that type of a yaw mechanism
Instructable : http://m.instructables.com/id/TRICOPTER/ (http://m.instructables.com/id/TRICOPTER/)

Will upload a video of it working if you want me to

Please do! :giggle:

Hi Darshan sorry for that, i checked another snap in last page where i could see servo. okie now if you want to continue with tricopter you have to further reduce the weight as these motors dont generate much thrust. you can use aluminium channels for arms while 1.5 mm glassfiber sheet for center plates. you can design it as per your need and Satya bro will cut it for you. just mail him. do not use props bigger than 5x3 with these motors. another choice is to buy one esc and motor from same seller and same specs and go with quad. i would also suggest you to buy kk2.0 with v1.6 and go further with it if your budget allows you.

i am still going with a tri.. i will rebuild my frame... i am taking a plastic box kind of a thing as the centre plate(pic attached)
and i am going to reduce the length of the arms and making it 14,14,14+yaw.. please review on this.. opinions please

please tell me if you want me to use something else as the center plate and if the shortening of the arms is wise. i.e. making a mini tricopter .:hatsoff: :salute: :bow:

i have cut down the arms and made them 15,15,15+yaw cm.. also i have cut down the centre frame and made it batman types..lol and also i have painted it ;D
the servo is separate cause i had to remove it while painting the yaw :hatsoff: :bow:

i think that the weight of the battery is too much (126 gms as specified by the seller)..although i cant lessen the weight of the battery..  any suggestions for bringing down the weight even more? ???

Your yaw mechanism or the place where the yaw motors sits is bit large you can trim that nearly to the size of the booms but it will lessen only 10-15g not much!

wouldnt make much of difference...
the parts that i have removed
the legs
almost 15cm of wood overall from the booms and everything
10cm of the center plate
some extra zip ties
ANYTHING ELSE????

what capacity battery ur using?

woah!!! i just did the same thing again[ the motor with the prop on it ] and it lifted off at almost 35 to 40%.. this is great !!!! :)

its a turnigy 1500 mah 3s 20-30c

Did you check the AUW after shortening the arms?

i will tell you when i do  ;)

btw why did you ask me my battery's capacity

I thought you where using a high mAh battery....
Tendency for first timer to get more flight time and thus using a bigger battery...even i made that mistake  :giggle:

Luckily my motors were capable of handling the weight

i hope mine would be too

How can i attach the servo to the yaw?? The previous method was working but it wasn't smooth. .does anybody have a simple tricopter yaw? Please help me out

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1308047 (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1308047)

though it might be posted in the previous posts, it is always nice to put your motor specs again when you ask for lifting problems

from the picture it looks like the motors are under powered. what is the motor specs.

is your lipo new?  what c rating?

the best way to start is to have a motor of around 700gms lift and the total copter weighing under 750gms and center plates made of cf instead of plywood.

in my earlier version of tricopter, the center plate weight around 140gms and now the cf plates weight just under 45 gms,

that is a great reduction in weight which we will never notice.

reduced weight will aid in overall performance and might smoothen your yaw mechanism.

http://www.rcindia.org/multirotors/my-tricopter-build-from-flitetest/ (http://www.rcindia.org/multirotors/my-tricopter-build-from-flitetest/)

this is my build thread, see the mechanism, its plain simple and works great.

And it's new..I still have to take the auw. . I think a mini tricopter would do with these motors

My servo is jittering just like this guys... any  solution? ?
https://www.google.co.in/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=7nhJVa-QJJPguQShzIC4Cg&url=http://m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DvVpveiMFZbA&ved=0CCIQtwIwAg&usg=AFQjCNFhTlN6ZbV5EspUmyisrkw6NX_mtA&sig2=DyRPzijOyinEfZv3OnNZoA (https://www.google.co.in/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=7nhJVa-QJJPguQShzIC4Cg&url=http://m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DvVpveiMFZbA&ved=0CCIQtwIwAg&usg=AFQjCNFhTlN6ZbV5EspUmyisrkw6NX_mtA&sig2=DyRPzijOyinEfZv3OnNZoA)

What type of servo ur using analog or digital?

 i am using hkscm9 digital servo

How are you powering the servo?
What is the amps that the BEC can deliver?

i am directly connecting the servo to fc.. bec can deliver 5v so it still hasnt burned

but there is one problem..
the servo arm becomes loose when power is not supplied..when it is the servo acts like a normal servo
any idea why this is happening?

Looks like the jitter is setting off a vibration that is causing the GYRO to react....
I would suggest you to remove the props and in the code try changing the Low Pass Filter Frequency
Uncomment these one at a time(ignore #define MPU6050_LPF_256HZ as it is a default setting ) and check if any reduction in jitter

/* MPU6050 Low pass filter setting. In case you cannot eliminate all vibrations to the Gyro, you can try
   to decrease the LPF frequency, only one step per try. As soon as twitching gone, stick with that setting.
   It will not help on feedback wobbles, so change only when copter is randomly twiching and all dampening and
   balancing options ran out. Uncomment only one option!
   IMPORTANT! Change low pass filter setting changes PID behaviour, so retune your PID's after changing LPF.*/
//#define MPU6050_LPF_256HZ     // This is the default setting, no need to uncomment, just for reference
//#define MPU6050_LPF_188HZ
//#define MPU6050_LPF_98HZ
//#define MPU6050_LPF_42HZ
//#define MPU6050_LPF_20HZ
//#define MPU6050_LPF_10HZ      // Use this only in extreme cases, rather change motors and/or props

Loose?
Do you mean to say you can move the servo arm when no power is supplied?


I dint quite get you here could you be a bit clear?

I the above mention solution don't work you could try adding a 0.1uf capacitor between the signal and ground line...it will reduce the jitter upto a certain extent

That happens if tail arm flexible, servo back slash error, loose connection rod, loose mounted servo or feed back from flight controller while at tricopter on a flexible stand/landing skid.

yes i can move the arm freely without any effort..and when i power it up.. the servo arm needs some force to move
akhilzid sir & himadri so what is the solution to this??

You should never force the servo arm when it is powered on. Doing so may strip the servo gears.

no i dont do that... i was checking  the connection and i noticed this..what to do?? is my servo okay??

The servo should resist movement while powered on. If you moved the arm, that means the gears may be damaged. Even while not powered, the arm should turn with some resistance and the sound of the gears. It should most definitely not turn freely.

but it is... ???

when powered on.. it moves normally with the sound of gears and some resistance

actually it does resist it when powered on.. but its loose when power is not supplied

That is normal behavior of servos.

guys i have a problem in multiwii gui/config
the sensor[i think they are called sensors] are not responding..
when i move my copter ..they dont respond and the shaking is not visible on the screen
HELP :banghead:???
some pics on the way

wait a sec guys.. i did some random stick inputs and the blue light came on ... the motors started working at 90% throttle.. then i unplugged it and now iam trying all random stick inputs but the motors dont arm ??? why is this happening does anybody the stick inputs for fst4b??

Did you uncomment the proper sensor name in the code? MPU6050?

Or may be you forgot to click "Start" in GUI ? Can you see the stick movements in GUI?

Ya I can see...It doesn't happen in this guy's too https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=n7viCoXU_Ts
And as i said I somehow made  the blue led go on by some random stick movements. .but now I can't do it again and that is the reason why I am asking for help
The blue led went on and the motors were spinning..that means everything is fine..I just have to arm the motors

But where you able to get the sensor readings on the GUI?

And to arm the quad(should bring the blue LED on) push ur rudder stick to extreme left and wait for LED to go on!
Increase throttle to see if motors spin!
To disarm push rudder to extreme right and wait for light to go off!
The throttle must be in idle(zero or completely down) position
Did you try this?

I tried that but the motors won't arm..:banghead:  this tx is nuts

Assign arming job to any available aux channel.

did you change any of the trims?
All trim except the throttle must be at the center...the throttle trim must be completely down!

thanks i was able to do it.. i had set a trim on the yaw.. now the motors are spinning
the problem now is that the motors are starting at 95% throttle.. and only the 2 motors in the front are spinning..the tail is still ..just the servo and the 2 motors work..
why is this happening??

Remove props, connect GUI , arm now ,take a picture and post.

tell me if you want any more pics

Look like you forgot to arm while taking pics.

i did it as you can see in the pic at the top middle there is an arm button which is lit up as i armed it before taking the pic.. tell me if you want to see the multiwii board after arming

after arming .. the tail motor starts at 75% throttle, the left motor starts at 80-85% throttleand the right motor starts at 90-95% throttle when i trim the throttle to max.. otherwise only the left and the tail motor start at 85% throttle..
what to do ??? ??? :hatsoff:

What about ESC calibration?

i had told you about the esc callibration thing.. there is a continuous beep like tetetetetete from the esc connected to ch2 and while the esc connected to ch3 is spinning.. when i bring the right stick to bottom left.. the sound stops and the motor spins as it is..

I think the way you calibrated is wrong.

Actual procedure was(do this for each ESC):
1) connect ESC to throttle channel(normally CH3 For mode 2) and leave all other ESCs Unconnected.
2) turn on transmitter + push throttle to max
3) power up ESC (you can hear just two beeps like tee tee)
4) push throttle to its min(can hear sound teee)
5) you can check motor speed now after that just Disconnect ESC.
Done.

if i dont connect the 2nd esc.. the receiver wont get powered up!! ???

Do it with the multiwii itself!
https://code.google.com/p/multiwii/wiki/ESCsCalibration

Then connect 2nd ESC to the empty channel( I mean a channel for battery in receiver).

Still it is not powering up...

Might be a faulty Rx?
Did you check the BEC's supply?Even the BEC could be faulty?Try checking the supply from the BEC using a multimeter!

No problem with bec. .my previous escs 10 a were also experiencing the same problem..my receiver needs an external power supply..except of the one esc connected to chx

Which is your receiver ?

 Flysky R6b

You can power it up by connecting a bec to any of its channels, bind port or power port.

If you are trying to calibrate each ESC separately, connect each at a time to throttle channel and calibrate. But calibrating through multiwii is easier than this separate calibration procedure

If you don't know how to calibrate with multiwii or you are having some trouble doing so, I can send you the ESC calibration code. You just have yo load that code on to your multiwii board, connect escs to respective channels and power up, no need of RX and tx

I am not. Using multiwii now..This one is out of bounds..I have ordered kk 5.5 blackboard.. let's see

kk 5.5 is equally hard to set up. You should have just bought a kk 2.1 and saved yourself the trouble.

 :( >:( :banghead: :-\

kk2.1 is the best for starting out with multirotors

Even i was of that impression, but since when I owned a CC3D, I never recommended a KK for beginners :giggle:

thank you guys for all the support
it flew with the i86 board that saikat sir gave me :hatsoff:
i would specially like to thank :
SAIKAT sir
himadri roy
sooraj sir
akhilzid sir
sk1701
satya sir
and the others who i forgot to take in
THANK YOU VERY MUCH
and dharmik sir i would soon make a quad out of these motors as the tri flew at approx 70% throttle
anyways thanks again :hatsoff: :bow: :salute:

Great! ;D
Change your caption "When will it fly?" to "It flies now" :P  :giggle:
Videos?

 :giggle: ;D