Ashta,

Excellent work and this board is a great help for the community. I wish this board was there 6 months back before I got KK Board as I never wanted to struggle with duplicate Wii/Nunchuk controls. Now I want something more than KK and this board seems very promising   Do you have any future plans to make it more modular like FreeIMU/Warthox kind of stuff so that we can change the processor going forward? Please share if there are any new developments on this project.

I hope members who bought this board will post their build pictures/videos/experiences soon here.

Thanks and best regards.
Srikar.

Ashta,
 
I am pasting our email conversation so that others can take advantage of it.

Srikar's Question: I am using Turnigy plush 25AMP ESC and NTM 28-30 Motors. Hope the default PID setting are going to be fine. Also ordered the serial LCD for ease on field to tune PID values. Can you please email me your config.h code??

Ashta's Answer: Default PID should be fine. I have gone up to 12 P with out any problem. default is 4. it is all your style of flying. Attached pl find the config. is your frame ready? any photos?

Ashta,

My frame is ready. Center plates, Landing gear and motor mounts are taken from Hemanth, Blr.  Power distribution board is home made PCB by me. Dome and aluminum arms are from a local store. Here are few pictures of it. I am waiting for the board from you to fit in and test fly.

srikar,
1. i find that you have soldered all the motor connections. And for DC you have given connectors. May be u can solder them too.
2. On 12th Oct 2011, the board is sent  thru DTDC Courier, the Docket No. Is B77327735. pl let me know on receipt.
3. Pl go thru the the installation guide, esp look at the errata while connecting.
https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B7CHSuX5N-_kMzNmZDA2MjQtODM2OC00ZTVlLThhNTUtYTIxNGM3NjlkZGUw&hl=en_US
Also this doc may be helpful
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0B7CHSuX5N-_kNzA5MDM1NzgtZTlmMi00MTk5LWJkNGItYmIxNDIxNjUzNTRh&authkey=CIrMqrUG&hl=en_US

4. One cabe to connect the Beeper and the strip LEDs are provided.
2. One more cable to connect the Bat to the board is also provided.(2pin)
be carefull about the polarity while comnecting.

The PCB is well legended. The LED driver out put is direct collector and hence assumes proper Resistnace. Cannot connect LED directly. The LED strips that you buy generally has the resistnace built in and can be connected directly. This design assumes that.
ashta

Thanks Ashta.

Quick question. What is the motor to motor distance (diagonally) on your quad (quad in your video at your SMD assembly unit)??

do not remember. will measure and tell you tomorrow.
its is around 28 inches mot to mot.
they say that there should be a min of one prop gap between mots.

@srekar
your frame design is really nice but don't you think it's too heavy? With these fibre glass material and battery it will go above 1kg i think.

Yes. It is heavy as it got heavy gauge acrylic parts.  I believe this frame was mainly aimed (I am not the designer) towards beginners as it is very forgiving even when it free falls from 15ft( yes, it i know it as mine was crashed)

I am planning to change landing gear with some light weight options.

Hello,srekar

Nice setup.But the motor mount and the landing gears really increase the weight to great extent and for that reason only i have removed all the motor mounts and Mounted the motors on the boom itself and for landing gears you can make it with aluminum plate which is light in weight and can do all the job.i am having the same frame purchased from hemanth guru

Dhiraj,
Thanks and I am also thinking in the similar lines to reduce weight.
Your frame with landing gear is inspiring and may be we should start a thread(if already not there) to post in all home made and commercially available (In India)  frames/designs.

Ashta,
I am just wondering to know the source of aluminum center plates and motor mounts you used on your frame. Is frame designed to take 1/2 inch aluminum booms? Seems they are laser cut. Is it possible for me to get them??

@srekar
definitely srekar.

By the which controller you are using?

hey guys i just wonder is there any 15x15mm hollow aluminium bar available in market?

Earlier I used KK Blue Board and now I am going to use Ashta's MultiWii Full Version controller.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0B7CHSuX5N-_kNzA5MDM1NzgtZTlmMi00MTk5LWJkNGItYmIxNDIxNjUzNTRh&authkey=CIrMqrUG&hl=en_US

ok.Great

Keep posting about further progress on your quad

Ashta,

I picked up the package few min back from DTDC office and here are the photos. Just one word, packing is excellent and quality of board is impressive.
I Will update again once I test it.

Good luck to you srikar.
Pl handle the board carefully. be careful reg static.
You can connect it to the usb, with the power jumper changed to usb side.
On the Wii configurator, you shouild be able to see all the sensors namely, Gyro ITG3200, Accelerometr BMA180, The barometer BMP85 and the magnetometer HMC5883 working.
i wil lpost a video later.
regarding the Frame  i will come back to you soon
best regards
ashta

@Ashta could you please PM me the cost of the board?

here are some photos. i changed the aluminium plate to 1mm acrylic, hand cut.
The dome is made from a cheap water bottle.
the total weight with bat is 1050 grams

will later post some nice landing gear for beginers.
here is a video in my drawing room.

more photos

I installed the multiwii config tool but it was generating the error log related to JRE environment on my PC.
As I am a java developer, I thought it could be because of my customized java development environment and when I changed the JRE, it worked 100% fine.

After MultiWii Config tool worked, I tested the board on PC and Here is a quick video.

dear srikar,
so far so good.
few points.
1. In my case i have avoided multiple ports for the Virtual com port.
2. You can also connect the receiver now, and try to switch on/ off, calibration, enable the accelerometer, barometer, magentometer thru the aux channels. The reciver gets 5v from this board and no Esc is required.
3. this way you will test most of the functions  on the board and thats the idea.
4. once you mount on the frame and Power from the Lipo, do not forget to put the jumper to the regulator side.

best regards
ashta

i did spent money and got it laser cut... but they are too heavy. i do not suggest this to u. use 1mm or .8mm acrylic or rooofing sheet. they are light and very strong.

Connected all electronics along with controller board on frame. Ground tested to make sure all motors are rotating in the right direction and responding to the TX stick movements accordingly including arming/disarming motors etc.

I still need to see how channel 5 (Turnigy RX)  connected to AUX (Controller) is going to work. I assigned Ch 5 to On/Off Gear switch on Tx. Ashta, any comments?

  

don bolt the controller....just use extreme foam tape with 3M double sided super glue tape.   

Hemanth,
The controller was mounted on a acrylic sheet with bolts and then it was attached to frame plate using the 3M foam tape. So the controller board was not attached to frame with bolts but with 3M foam tape as you said.