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« on: July 02, 2013, 08:56:43 PM »
AnjanBabu
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Hello to model boat fanatics, I'm here with a simple DIY radiator for water cooling your boat ESCs.

Very simple, less number of components, effective and more importantly, not expensive at all! I didn't spend a rupee.

Materials required:
1) Small piece of aluminium sheet metal (1mm or 2mm)
2) Telescopic antenna
3) Heat sink compound (available at electronics stores)
4) plastic/rubber/silicone hose for plumbing (available at aquarium shops)

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Simple DIY water-cooling radiator for ESCs
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« Reply #1 on: July 02, 2013, 08:58:58 PM »
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I used a 3mm diameter tube, cut in half and weakly super glued to the aluminium base which is trimmed to fit my ESC.

Then, apply some heat sink compound to increase heat conductivity, a good application onto all seems and gaps must be ensured.

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« Reply #2 on: July 02, 2013, 09:07:30 PM »
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the tubes are sanwiched with another piece of aluminium held in place with a small screw.

A small part of the heat shrink on the ESC heat sink must be cut, make sure to leave a 3mm perimeter around the cut, so that the heat shrink doesnt lose it's integrety.

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« Reply #3 on: July 02, 2013, 09:10:40 PM »
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apply some heat sink compound on both the radiator base and the ESC heat sink plate, make sure of a neat spread for proper conduction.

Press them together and super glue around the contact seem. do not apply too much glue, may drip into the ESC.

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« Reply #4 on: July 02, 2013, 09:13:25 PM »
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prepping before spraying on a coat of paint.

The finished product, an inexpensive water cooling radiator for your ESC!

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« Reply #5 on: July 02, 2013, 09:16:57 PM »
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Very good  Clap Clap

Only thing I don't like is using super glue between the ESC & Heat exchanger. It is too permanent, and has a little insulation effect. Also, if the Al can be highly polished it will work better
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« Reply #6 on: July 02, 2013, 09:17:36 PM »
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Installed in my air boat.

I used 3.5mm synthetic rubber hose and a couple of ''L'' connectors and a ''T'' connector for the plumbing.

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« Reply #7 on: July 02, 2013, 09:18:03 PM »
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Don't paint. Get it anodized
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« Reply #8 on: July 02, 2013, 09:19:51 PM »
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Very good  Clap Clap

Only thing I don't like is using super glue between the ESC & Heat exchanger. It is too permanent, and has a little insulation effect. Also, if the Al can be highly polished it will work better
the super glue goes on the perimeter of the contact patch, in beeween, there is heat sink compound for conduction. and yes, the aluminium base has to be smooth, i used a 600 grit wet sandpaper to polish it.
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« Reply #9 on: July 02, 2013, 09:20:20 PM »
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Don't paint. Get it anodized
i'm very cheap, sir ji  Giggle
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« Reply #10 on: July 02, 2013, 09:34:47 PM »
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Anjan bhaiya how did you cut such thick aluminium and trim it?
You can anodize aluminium at your house yes it will cost a bit more but is effective and looks better than paint. But for this application i dont think its needed. For you next hydro which will be better than this for looks you can anodize Grin
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« Reply #11 on: July 02, 2013, 10:54:48 PM »
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Anjan bhaiya how did you cut such thick aluminium and trim it?
You can anodize aluminium at your house yes it will cost a bit more but is effective and looks better than paint. But for this application i dont think its needed. For you next hydro which will be better than this for looks you can anodize Grin
Used a bench vise and a hack saw Grin

Yes, working on designing the hydro, not going too well Bang Head
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« Reply #12 on: July 03, 2013, 12:32:34 AM »
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Zip tie the heat sink instead of super gluing it. Tongue  It looks a tad clumsy, but isn't permanent, and you can take it off when you fry the esc Grin
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« Reply #13 on: July 03, 2013, 12:36:45 AM »
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Zip tie the heat sink instead of super gluing it. Tongue  It looks a tad clumsy, but isn't permanent, and you can take it off when you fry the esc Grin
I can take this off too, it's glued to the heat shrink Grin
Even so, zipties are a better idea to CA.  Thanks
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