RC India

Hello folks,

It's summer time and I could see a lot of sign board ads for fun fairs and stuffs like that. These coro sign boards tempt me to build something. So, even though, I am not actively flying, I decided to build a Spad in my free time. This build is more for the fun of building rather than flying.. so, I don't know if I would finish it or if it would end up in the bin!! (Wife likes the binning idea... ;D)... Further, I am building it as it goes.. so there are lots of goof ups in the build..  :banghead:

This is an electric powered, sport model and I call it "Spaddy".

Some more..

:thumbsup:

Your own plan ?  What thickness ?

Please post couple of pictures showing the belly, especially under the wings and any reinforcements.

Looking nice.

Build pics in detail pls Sir! :thumbsup:

you really love elliptical wings, dont you ;D
Nice to see an expert back in action :thumbsup:

NICE PLANE!!!

Spad King is back :hatsoff:

Thanks guys.

The wing is made from 2mm coro. The spar is 1 inch high / quater inch thick balas spar.
The fuse is all 4mm coro. I wanted to make it with 2mm as well but then I don't have a decent piece of it..
I do not have a plan.. I just build it as it goes with the TLAR principle. Attached are some build pics.

I need to do more reinforcement on the tail section. Will post pictures as I progress.


Oh yes. I do like it a lot. I miss my red spitfire plane. Every plane that I flew falls short of it.

more

Fuselage & tail

Couple of goof-ups.

1, The fuse is built in two parts. Its hard to line up both the front and the aft. Since, I am building from sign boards I do not have a decent length to build the fuse as a single section. However, I could have planned for it before I started.. :banghead:

2, The fuslage contours for the wing is not at the right level. You can see it in the attached pictures. This is due to the fact that the coro that I using does not have constant flute widths. I always do my dimensions with number of flutes... now I learnt the lesson. :banghead: :banghead:

-Ismail

"The King" is back. Great build Ismail.  :hatsoff:  :hatsoff: That's what a lot of us Spadders have been waiting to see for a long time. Your pics are a tutorial for us Spadders. Great going. Would love to see the plane take to air.
Best Wishes
Doc

What glue are you using ?

Flying Doc +5 "The King is back" !
SLS This did remind me a lot about the Spit.

Izmile Sir, you have been missed.

Also, do you flash the coro (with a flame torch), or sand it for better adhesion when you stick two pieces together ?

Thanks guys for the warm comments (makes me smile!  :) ). But honestly, I don't want too much pressure on this. Besides, I have seen "a lot better" builders in this forum. Pass on the title to someone else.


I am using medium CA - industrial grade, its lot cheaper than those fancy hobby CA glue. I do sand the coro before gluing. Flashing with a torch would also work but then I have never done that in my builds.

-Ismail

Are you telling us that ordinary CA sold in stationery stores will bind coro as long as it is sanded? What grade of sandpaper are we talking about here? I mean how rough does the surface have to be?

Good to see a lot of SPAD discussion in this and other threads !  I hope the SPAD season will last... instead of "doesn't make sense stuff in Chatter Zone".

Next question, what is your plan for landing gears (must be a tail-dragger) ?  Or are you planning to utilize all the beautiful English grass ? :)

hi,

good construction , i am also a spad builder and have a fleet of spad models both in electric and glow.

my way of building different and totally use 3mm ply for the reinforecement.

for electric models 2 mm coro suits the best. for glow models i use 3mm for fuse and wing. 5mm for vertical and horizontal tails.

pics below

Sandeep,

Nice fleet you got there. Admire your build skills.. {:)}

VC/Anwar,

I have tried the glue from stationary shops before and it held the coro like any other glue. Back then, I used Anabond (555 ?? forgot the num). Its a 100ml bottle and it worked perfect. Only down side is that the joints were not as strong if its rainy (too much moisture). The one that I use now is an industrial CA bought from ebay.. there are other hobby grade CA which are quite expensive.. don't know if its worth the extra bucks.

Ok now, don't mention about the landing gear.. thatz one of my weak build areas. I am planning for a tail dragger. Lets see how it goes.

Please post an eBay link for the glue.

Izmile Bhai, you just saved me a thousand bucks. I was about to buy a butane burner tomorrow for flashing coro. Thanks a ton!

Checked ebay. All unaffordable imported products  :banghead:. Including a 2gram Henkel tube for Rs.999/-  :o (probably the most expensive modelling equipment in anyone's collection - weight for weight!)

Here is the Anabond link:

http://www.anabond.com/cyanoacrylate_1.htm

Surprisingly, I have tried Rubber based adhesive (Dendrite) after sanding and found the most strong joint than I got with CA with sanding or Epoxy with sanding. I use 3mm coro with 120 grit sandpaper. Afterwards tried with diluted rubber based adhesive (with thinner) but result not so good.

Believe me and try on a few scrap piece of coro.

hi,

I use speedy a local CA available here for Rs.35 for 20ml bottle. it works best on coro.

for the fuse and plywood I use Fevicol SR99 , rubber based adhesive. apply the sr99 and wait for 10-15 mins. once you feel it sticky then stick and keep weights untill dry.

have recently got a new glue called Araldite Tuffix. its great for gap filling and foams up when dry. but only good for wood joints and biofoam planes.

regds

I have tried Dendrite but it did not work well for me. Further, I thought it would be heavy.. silly me!  ;D (SPADs are heavy  ;D).. To be honest, I like working with CA than any other glue.. just a personal preference, I guess. 8-)

VC bhai, it my pleasure. The trick is to sand the coro, so that, you produce enough heat by friction (same like flashing). Also, the sanding will ensure a rough surface for the CA to adhere on. Just get/or make a nice sanding block with handles. You don't want to get blisters on your fingers.

BTW, on the Anabond, I am pretty sure the type that I used is not listed on their website. Its something like 555 and its damn good. Once you make a "proper" joint you cannot take it apart, if you persist it would tear the coro. The down side is of course, you cannot make fine adjustments.

-Ismail

I use normal 203 fevikwik CA. I sand both surface, then wipe it clean with a moist cloth. Put very small drops of CA on one surface then glue them together while they are still little moist.

Fevicol PUR, good for foam and Easy Star. The handsome model is our new moderator...Amit aka SunLikeStar ;D. His Easystar aka Cyanostar at Baner >:D can also been seen in the background.   

It's an awesome adhesive, but i dont know if we can use this on SPADs.
BTW Mohan is a very accomplished SPAD builder and he should stop being so selfish and post some building techniques, a build log maybe  8-)