I'm taking a leap into the plane world and am planning to build a foamy (Become an all-out RC kid  ).. Planning to start with something that is already available at home.. Thermacol (which I read somewhere is the same as EPS) Also, I have gone through various forums, and now I want to build a Blu-Baby or Nutball..

Now everyone says that we should use "epoxy".. And it comes in various "minutes" (5minute epoxy, etc.) To a noob like me, that sounds like Greek and Latin..
Also, what is CA glue? I know that it is used in cars for gluing the tires..
What is a "cyno"?
What other glues are there?

Someone please take out the time and explain   

Thanks,
Divyam

This link is quite helpful.
http://www.rcindia.org/tools-materials-and-building-techniques/locally-available-epoxy-andor-caglue-for-foam-planes/

CA is cyano acrylate(not sure about the spelling of acrylate).It is basically like superglue or fevi quick.It is pretty good and there are 2 types(at least),foam safe and normal.If you use the normal on foam,it will eat the foam.

Epoxy is araldite(one of the brands).I think araldite sets in 12 hours or something.

I would suggest getting the rest of the details from more experienced people.And if I am wrong,please correct me.

A slightly better idea of what CA glue is....
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8520948/anchors_8523109/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#8523109

Thanks a lot!
Also, can I just use a hot glue gun? Or only foam safe glues?

You can use Hot glue on Biofoam and most of the foams. Apply hot glue on a small waste piece of thermocol and see it is not melting it. Thermocol will melt at high temp. But I feel the hot glue should work on it.

You can use ONLY foam safe CA on foamies. Normal CA (Fevikwik) will eat the foam. (because of heat generated while curing)

Saurabh,any idea why fevikwik has an exothermic reaction with biofoam?

CA has a property of generating heat while curing. This is the tendency of the chemical I believe. It is because of this heat, the foam starts melting. If you apply Fevikwick to any surface, it will generate heat while curing. Try putting it on leather and you will see even fumes.  Put it on balsa, it will get hot as it cures. Foam safe do not generate excessive heat and are hence safe on foams. CA is moisture cure.

For that mattery even a 5 min epoxy generates heat while curing. Check it out next time.

From what I have seen, the faster the cure, the more heat it generates.

So it is a payoff between the heat it generates and time it takes to cure.I should try the leather sometime.

Any idea which locally available CA glue is best for gluing RC car tyres to the wheels?

Not sure if locally available.. but i guess foam safe CA should work

Issue is it must stick to plastic. Which one do you suggest?

For all of my foamies, I just use low temp hot glue (the little cheapy hot glue gun with mini sticks). The major complain is that it is heavier than other glues, but as you all know by now, I build my planes like tanks anyway.

I'm not sure if it's available in India, but Testors plastic model glue, would be your best choice for gluing plastics. Testor's is an acetone based solvent used in putting styrene plastic together, by welding it. The solvent dissolves the plastic and thus it welds together instead of leaving a layer-layer-layer like plastic-glue-plastic.

Hope this helps...Wayne

I tend to use either Fevicol or Fevitite (30min epoxy)

@rcfoamcrafters
Oh so hot glue gun works just fine? Extra weight is all right.. Will use a better motor/prop..

@Saurabhh
Thank you for the detailed explanation!

The low temp glue gun with the mini sticks is all I use for everything. If I was competing with somebody with the same design, it might be different, but I'm a firm believer in simplicity and convienence. I have a local store that sells the mini glue guns and sticks, and I have a hardware store with lots of foam insulation board. Other than the electronics, I make everything else.

Have fun...Wayne

I've read on various forums that a thing called "Goop" can be used for sticking coro to coro. What is "Goop"?
Of late I've tried wood pecking the surfaces before gluing and the bonds are really strong.
Epoxy can be 5 min ie. it starts setting in 5 min and full strength is attained in 3 hrs (Fevitite 5 min, Bondtite uniweld, Araldite rapid and clear)
30 min epoxy (Fevitite 30 min)
3Hrs (Araldite - sets in 3 hrs and full strength in 12 hrs) strongest bond.
Hope I'm not too wrong
Doc

Goop is basically a contact cement. There are different types...household, craft, automotive, marine and maybe more. Becareful, I'm sure if you get the wrong one, your foam will melt. For coro, it shouldn't matter. The proper way to bond coro, is to sand the area to be bonded with medium (80-120 grit sandpaper, then flash it with a torch to remove the surface oil from the plastic. Use  just a steady movement with the torch over the area. You don't want the coro to melt. Let it cool, then use 5 minute epoxy. I've done the same and used hot glue instead of epoxy, and the bond seamed just as good.Try it with a couple of scraps.

I also read quite a bit about "shoe goo" (as Finless Bob calls it in his heli build videos), but could never find it easily locally (in Qatar / India).  But it was readily available in stores outside (US etc). 

This is the one I got : http://www.eclecticproducts.com/shoegoo.htm

I do the sanding and flashing method and use epoxy for coro, but I was just wondering if the same prep is to be done for hot glue too?
Doc

Yes, sanding is better for anything to adhere, especially coro, because of the smooth shiny surface.

Has anyone tried Fevicol decorative glue or Rubber adhesive with foam?
Doc

Divyam,

I recommend Fevicol Merine for your thermocol if you are from India. Just use it. Fixes in 5 minutes. Use 20 dencity thermocol or packing thermocol but not commonly available thermocol for aeromodeling as it has no strength.

Thanks

thank you Anwar sab..