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« on: February 02, 2015, 11:41:15 PM »
VC
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Does anyone have a clue where I can get this from or any alternatives that can help seal Balsa wood? A few decades ago it was available at India Hobby Centre at exorbitant prices. I need a litre of this stuff urgently.
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« Reply #1 on: February 02, 2015, 11:56:31 PM »
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Two stalwarts KKIYER and Essaargee are viewing this thread - hope at least one of them leaves a constructive reply.

If all else fails, can I use 'Touchwood' / Berger 'Woodkeeper' diluted in thinner?
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« Reply #2 on: February 03, 2015, 12:05:01 AM »
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@VC Sir,
Really like to meet anyone who has answers to such questions!
And also those who just have such questions...

Sir, the closest guess i can venture (for an alternative) is a few drops of castor oil in NC Lacquer (dope).

RC Aunt, half asleep, asks me "What does he want, Dope?" And adds "Don't ask him to use Touchwood, it smells different"

But it does work fine for sealing/finishing balsa...
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« Reply #3 on: February 03, 2015, 12:07:43 AM »
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So I dilute Touchwood with NC Thinner? Wake up Aunt, with my apologies.

Olfactory senses are very important here.
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« Reply #4 on: February 03, 2015, 12:15:49 AM »
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Instead of thinner, suggest apply as is, and scrape with a credit card.
Repeat after warming with hair dryer.
Was amazed at how how much got removed, and how little was reqd to impregnate the wood.

(Some women know the difference between dope and Touchwood, that Solarfilm is thinner than Monokote, which way the reed valve has to be fitted to a Cox Babe Bee...
AAARRRGGGHHH)
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« Reply #5 on: February 03, 2015, 12:24:18 AM »
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 Hats Off Bow Salute To the Half asleep Lady.

Thanks!
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« Reply #6 on: February 03, 2015, 01:10:27 AM »
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VC ji, Check your PMs.
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« Reply #7 on: February 03, 2015, 07:48:32 AM »
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For a great finish on balsa try the following

1. brush on acrylic emulsion paint (yes the one used for walls) (diluted) onto the bare
    balsa and let it dry.
2. when dry use fine grit sandpaper and sand (it will sand like talcum powder) until the
    surface is smooth to touch(note :you will be sanding most of the acrylic and leaving only enough
    to fill the grain. )

3. once you are satisfied with the undercoat - use any type of paint - enamel / acrylic / poly u /or NC
    based (note that meth alcohol will attack the undercoat)       

4. Use a clearcote that is compatible with the paint used for final sealing.

There are many ways - the above is what I have been doing on my last few models.
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« Reply #8 on: February 03, 2015, 07:54:07 AM »
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Wembley Sanding Sealer - that's what I use, with a fair degree of success. You can follow that with a coat of Clear Lacquer. Dilute as needed with NC Thinner
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« Reply #9 on: February 03, 2015, 09:14:44 AM »
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Thanks all, especially Essaargee for taking all the trouble. I appreciate you efforts.

Saikat, Sire - Salaams.
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