About two years for that one, Pankaj.

Don,
Welcome to RC India. To answer your question re instruments I would go with Inzapan (aerocockpit), I do not have skills to replicate them as well as those made professionally 

Is it OK with you, Manish, that I post pix on your thread? I want to make sure that, as a newcomer, I'm not stepping out of line :-)

  to u Sir. I have one question though. Could u please post the cost breakup for complete build including kit parts motor etc. Thx

It costs a fortune, the prices for various parts of the kit are put up. Add postage and customs and it is. Big bucks.
avijit

Don, you are most welcome to post pictures on this thread. I am sure not only I but others would also benifit from your skills. And it would be my honour to be watched by the master of the craft while I go about putting my Tiggy together.
And all of us here would be waiting for you to put up your own thread with some of those superb creations 

Crazy pilot - Will try and put the things together. Put I am afraid of one thing. Les't that be seen by my better half
But long back I had stopped counting the pennies (or should that be the Paisa) I have been putting in this hobby.    

Thank you, Manish, for the OK to post pix onto this thread. I'll limit them to those relevant to your Falcon model and will take your advice to start a thread of my own and invite you to 'attend'.   

'Bye for now

Some more progress has been made.
Completed the fin and rudder (except final sanding), fitted the control horns and then finally started on the fuse.
The shots below show the completed fin, the reinforced structure (all with 1/64 ply) to ensure a very rigid structure

And this is how the tail comes together.
The rudder horns bolted on the structure
The last two shot is of the fuse sides laid together

Looking good, Manish  I found the design to be really good for rigidity and lightness. This afternoon I'll post a picture of my fuselage underside to show the plywood sheeting which isn't too clear from the drawings.

For now I must cut the grass and hoe the vegetables. 

Love the Tiger Moth.. I have started recovering an old beat up GWS tiger Moth i have loved and flown extensively. I researched some really good scale schemes, especially Indian Air Force ones and one of a Maroon TM from the delhi flying club. Chck it out..

I like the Maroon scheme, tango. particularly the Hefferlump. Have you seen this shot of her in Germany. You'll then be able to paint the DH logo onto each side!

Good luck with the re-furb

Regards, Don

@ manish sir: i am not able to see the hinges on the elevator or the rudder.. can please post some closeup pics of the hinges.. bit curious

Looking at this thread and also Doncoe's planes's thread..i have started falling in love with vintage aircrafts. These beauties are simply awesome.

...and so you should ankurkaul17  Here's another for your delictation 

It's my 1/4 scale Sopwith Pup from the plans of Mick Reeves.

EDIT: Sorry Wrong Thread

Sorry, Manish.   
Have just realised that I posted those pictures on your thread.  I meant to post them on mine

No worries Don, as I said earlier you are welcome to post.

RC Vish,
The hinges are Robart pin type, 310. These are 3/16 dia hinges. When fitted on the Moth, not only the knuckles look scale they also ensure scale hinge gaps on the surfaces (and mind you these gaps on the tiger moth are huge by model standards where the general principle is to minimise all hinge gaps).
Here are some pictures of the hinges used. I have cut them down to save some weight (Practice shamelessly copied from Don) 

The fuse sides have been completed, sanded down to ensure all is smooth. If you woud notice the first four pieces are spruce beyond which all members are balsa. The fuse is a long one hence difficult to get the entire fuse in a single frame of picture 

And after completing the sides I am stuck. Before I proceed further I have to fit the metal parts on the fuse. And before I can fit them I need to countersink the holes.
The problem is I do not know if I would be able to get countersink bits with 1/8 shank. As I intend using my dremel and dremel work stand and Dremel can only accomodate upto 1/8 shank size bits.
On an alternative been thinking to get the countersink bit with standard 1/4 shank and get it turned down to 1/8 which can then be fitted on to my dremel. Hope the Dremel will be man enough to perform the intended operation. If not will have to device some other strategy
Here are some pictures of the Dremel work stand and the work bench vice

There were some questions on glue I am using.
For all balsa to balsa, unless the assembly requires sometime to position I use cyano (Anabond being easily availble here). For hardwoods like spruce and ply joints I am using Titebond PVA, which after I procured from Tower realized that is akin to our domestic Fevicol SH. Colour is differen though. So now I am happily using both Titebond and Fevicol based on which bottle my hand reaches first 
I had also ordered Titebond liquid PU glue which is similar to foaming glue that Susheel posted a few days back.
Pictures of the glue bottle attached.

thanks on the hinges reply sir.

the covering for the fuse and the wing/tail will be of traditional silk and dope. or monokote matching the texture..! ( just curious on how a real 1/4th scale be built) + which colour scheme?

 

Manish. I see that you will have difficulty in countersinking the holes in the supplied metalwork with the Dremel. I suggest that you use a C/S bit in a hand drill with the metalwork held down onto a wooden block in some way. An alternative would be to go to your local motorcycle repair shop and have them to do the job with their pillar drill.

Or you could come here and I'll do them! FOC, of course :-))

RC Vish, the covering will be natural Solartex with paint. Yet to choose a colour scheme. I am looking for simple yet striking civillian scheme. Any suggestions? My other two Tiggies are Civil scheme as well.
Would have loved to do silk/Nylon and dope but for availability of tautening dope locally and the stuff can not be imported

Don,
Thanks for the suggestion and offer. If I may suggest, the metal work could be supplied countersunk by Chris, even if for an additional cost, it may save some heartaches for builders like me.

And finally some good news, went and bought countersinking bit. As expected could not locally procure the 1/8th bit so bought the 1/4 shank bit, with intention to have the shank turned down to 1/8. Later at home, just to see how it works, chucked up the bit in my hand drill and worked on the metal fittings. Wohooo!! it worked so went on working........ The trust and rusty hand drill did the job. I am sure not to win any prizes for it but it will work nicely.

So Don...
Your advice was spot on I think we think alike    

So for people who have never done some countersinking here are few pictures
1. The screw has a countersunk head (see the conical shape of the head) and hence the need for countersinking

2. This is what is known as countersinking bit. This one is 90 degree bit (there are others like 82, 100 and 120 so you need to know what degree the screw head you are using subtends).
 
3. The two top holes in the metal have been countersunk. You can the screw on top right in the hole is sitting almost flush, while the one in bottom left is standing proud of the surface. Notice the shadow cast by the screw