It all started after I found a set of free plans for a 40 cm Cabin Cruiser. After the plan was downloaded and printed, it had to be assembled / aligned. Straightaway, problems arose with the alignment. Anyway, did the best that I could. Got my rudimentary tools ready (note the absence of any power tools). Step 2 was to lay out a sheet of tracing paper on the plan and trace out the parts as I wanted to preserve the original. These traces were then copied on to A4 sheets for transfer to the wood.
I will be using the Simul wood (which nobody wanted!) for the entire build.
Each part was traced / imprinted with carbon paper and cut out.
Build in progress............As I don't have sophisticated tools, some of the bulkheads broke while cutting. Cutting any soft wood against the grain :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:!!!
Notice the yellowish glue used to join them back. Quickfix by Wembleys (my alltime favourite) is back!
Shaping up nicely :thumbsup:
If you are planning to do similar things going forward also, a Dremel could get real friendly with you ! 8-)
Test fitting a couple of bulkheads.
Anwar Sahab, Thanks! I do plan to invest in a Dremel. Right now, I am planning to mod my electric drill into some kind of a sander/grinder. Let's see how it goes! :thumbsup:
how many sheets of semul will be left with u after this project?
Let me see, because I plan to build 2 Torpedo boats after this. One 37 inches long and the other 48 inches long. :headscratch:
Hull skeleton is almost ready and the superstructure is now being assembled. She is bigger than I thought she would be when I started out.
Hmm..seems interesting that your quickfix is yellow in color
My quickfix when when settled seems to be translucent white
And how will this boat be powered
anyway seems a lot of effort being put in it
i'm using up my old stock of quick fix which used to be pale yellow. The current lot has a new colour scheme and is translucent, u are right. I plan to power this boat with a 7.5 brushed motor and will have 2 or 3 channel RC.
ok..i was thinking that i m getting local duplicate stuff..lolz
Good going :thumbsup:
Is the final result going to be RC or static ?
Anwar Sahab, not static. I am planning on 2 or 3 Channel, will decide that once the hull has been trimmed.
hi guys,
I am just starting this build as well,
been into rc for a few years now but not boats,
I was looking at a 11.1 volt motor but as you are using a 7+v I will be interested in how it goes :-)
what prop are going to use?
I am cutting the baulkheads/frames in 'light ply' so have not got the problem of 'grain splits'.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/powerboat.jpg)
the finished model........for those that dont know what it looks like.......
regards
don
nice work, when will the boat be ready ?
best
sahil
VC, Any progress on Antares ?
There were moments of desperation and frustration when I almost gave up. Times when I was ready to set the damn thing on fire and end it all. I almost accepted that my boat modelling skills had been forgotten and that this cruiser was doomed.
At that point of time, when I was about to give up, I read and re read what Don @ 'Sunk?' had done with his model. How he had persisted and modified. If that 'kid' do it, so could I (I didn't know then that Don was a veteran and much older than I!)
I decided to resurrect her and work progresses again.
Lot of filling sanding has to be carried out to achieve hull symmetry as I had really messed up on the bulkheads.
I had wanted to post the build thread once she was totally complete, however, the reason I am posting this is because I want Don to see it before he heads for the surgery. The maiden video (even if she is complete and ready to sail) will wait till he returns.
Cheers!
VC
I decided to plank her too and I found a lightweight but VERY strong substitute to balsa. Plastic /Acrylic 0.5mm sheet.
The dark patches are M Seal. This was just the beginning of gap sealing! The brighter red is a 10mm wide acrylic tape (1mm thick) that is used for decorative purposes. Difficult to explain, but the shop keeper told me that it is used by carpenters to decorate the edges of home 'mandirs' and the sort. It is flexible and has a lip on one edge. PERFECT for creating a thicker edge for the gunwale to adhere to. It also adds to the aesthetics of the boat.
Looks great! very neat build! Keep going with the build.
Thanks Izmile. The build has progressed beyond this point. Will update soon.
Cheers!
VC
hi VC
that was great idea for the sheeting, what glue did you use for the bonding to frames...................
I doubt you messed up on the frames/ribs....the plan if same as mine............ was terrible for exactness.
but good basic plan, not seen one of these since I was about'8' had one myself powered by 2 x 'u2' batterymy uncle was in the royal navy then and brought it back from hong kong :-)
........memories..........:-)
looking good mate
regards
don
You contributed to it Mate. In a big way. Thanks for being there.
Good night! ( It is nearly 2 am here now)
VC
hi mate.
nah ...just bounceing my ideas around a bit :) :)
regards
don
How do I get the motor to reverse in this contraption? I will be using a brushed motor and a 4 ch Tx/Rx. The Rx has a built in ESC for brushed motors. Any suggestions will be welcome.
Cheers!
VC
You want it to be reversed via radio control while in use, or just a one time reversal to make it a pusher ?
Reversed via RC. In case I encounter any obstacles that I need to back out of.
hi VC
I will be 'making' a reverse currant switch.......4ch tx?..................hahaha same as me............. use a servo to trigger the reverse.
one idea here
http://website.lineone.net/~alanann/hints.htm
but i was just going to do a simple block with the wires in and out reversed here
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh268/dondecap/switch-1.jpg)
the servo at bottom right slides a plate with two wires from the esc.
the wires from the motor go to the back of block (2 red off red terminal ) the wires from esc go on the slider block ,
then a slow tx contorl on the servo stops the motor then reverses it as the stick is moved whichever way for the servo.and the slider moves from one set of contacts to the other. :)
so the polarity goes....right to left ...from red /black to black/red so when slider moved it would then be red esc wire to black motor wire instead of red.
on a brushless motor this should be ok for the short periods of reverse use.
easy????? ??? :o ;) :)
regards
don
you could buy a toggle switch for this but then the servo has the wieght of the spring to throw each time and would be harder to stop the motor in middle of movement
don
Don, I had thought about making a slider switch to reverse polarity. Thanks for the schematics.
Regards,
VC
hi mate.
how are you doing with the cruiser?
I did not put the revers switch in mine in the end as it was going to my grandson and so kept it simple for 'dad' to sort out '''''''''''''''' may be''''''''''''''''''''
regards
don
uk